aaronc

Rookie question....I read about all the miniature table saws and equipment for scratch building etc.....what is the main advantage of these size tools?  I have full size equipment....are regular table saws simply overkill on power, is it space saving issues...or less waste with smaller kerf......or combination of various factors?  

Thanks -Aaron 

Looks to me like your killin it,..nice work. 

Gentlemen I'm not getting any younger so here we go. I have had my eye on the little whaling boat for a while now...but ran into this the other night here on the forum. After taking a closer look I decided it was the place to start for me. I know it's simple but I love the lines of this little boat, and for the $$ it was a no brainer. It came in yesterday. I had time this afternoon to do an initial unboxing. It was well packaged, no damage, and came with a parts list with a date the kit was made....signed by Miroslava. I like that, When I saw one of the build logs here of the kit I did some googling to see what I could find out about the subject matter. That's what peaked my interest and firmed up my decision. I'm sure all of you guys are aware but here is the link. I'll be posting progress. Thanks for looking. 

History | Lowell's Boat Shop & Museum (lowellsboatshop.com)

Or,...54lbs for about 95$. Not sure how much good is in there though.

54 LBS Apple Wood Chunks & Logs. Fruit Wood for Smoking Cooking BBQ Crafts Etc | eBay

A quick google,...looks to be running $22 a board ft for 8/4. 

Apple Lumber – Hearne Hardwoods

4 minutes ago, Jaager said:

Back when I was doing all that, I had 5 acres in Delaney Woods, Jessamine Co.  I worked at Cooper Drive VAMC  (It was 400 beds then). 

Red Maple ain't  Sugar Maple (Hard  -  Rock)  Acer saccharum .  I use Hard Maple exclusively from the Acer family.

Probably not in business anymore, but I bought a supply of Hard Maple and Black Cherry from Homer Gregeory  in Morehead.  I also bought too much Sycamore - back before I learned that Underhill was taking about a European Maple species - not the American Plantus occidentalis junk that I bought.  They were a whole sale country sawmill then.  Rough ricks in the weather - it was all well seasoned - I got 4x4 - today I would get 8x4.

If I were young and where you are, I would make friends with the county extension network and try to find farmers with healthy but past production full size Apple trees.  Work a deal to get some logs . Who knows, maybe you could get some Holly, Dogwood, or Hornbeam that way?  It is a big regret that I did not try that when I could.  Too much grafted to easy pick size now.  For Holly  it is a fight to beat the Blue Mold before it is seasoned.  I now realize that for us, even the worst Blue Mold infected wood is perfectly OK for our use.  It is just as sound.  It is just grey.  That is a more perfect deck color than the commercial snow white Holly.  No species of wood used for decks is white and the grey mimics the effect of sun and seawater.  The white has become ridiculously expensive and the stuff that is perfect of us  is probably being burned. 

 

I've been in the woods all my life and know lots of farmers....I don't own one but am surrounded by farms here. Wife also has family in the cattle business. That being said I've rarely ran into apple trees and my best bet would be to try the local orchards within driving distance from me. There are several around. Dogwood is relatively common, even off of the interstates if you know what your looking for. Holly...see it every now and then...mostly in peoples yards. Hornbeam I have no idea on...would have to do some homework. The sugar maple is common here and I have one in the yard....it just wasn't the one that blew over. Those reds grew pretty fast so yes I'm assuming they are softer wood. I appreciate the "get list" and your responses. I do find it interesting that apple is a top tier wood for this. I'm not elderly yet...but not youthful either. At the moment I'm holding together well at 48. 

4 minutes ago, Jaager said:

You do not provide your location here on Terra, but the straight narrow trunk looks like a small Hard Maple I lost to a tornado - one of the bunch that destroyed Xenia, OH.

My local Hardwood supplier has kiln dried Hard Maple.  There is also Soft Maple - which I despise - I prefer Yellow Poplar for stock where a low density hardwood does the job.   Seasoning and processing logs into usable lumber is a lot of work, ages expensive tools, and takes up time and space.  I see it as prudent to only expend that effort on wood species that are either unavailable any other way, or very expensive.  And expensive is a toss up.  Hard Maple and Black Cherry are both available here in the eastern US and are less than $10 /BF.  I have and use a lot of both,  but processing either from a log would cost me way more than $10 - all factors included.

No,  but my present situation - age, hernia, physical location (as far from rural as it gets in Virginia and actually on The Bay) places me out of the running any more.  The Bradford Pear was street trash on Pretty Lake Blvd. after the last hurricane.  I had to tie a rope around the big log and drag it up the street to my condo behind my "Z".  It was both too heavy to lift and I am lucky that the Z has enough room for food resupply.  No way that log would fit.

I tried to buy an Alaskan Mill or something like it - from Silvo Hardware.   I waited and waited, then one day I got a letter stating than I was a party in a bankruptcy proceeding.  

I have a 16" Shindaiwa  buried in the back of a closet - everything rubber is probably oxidized to brittle by now - and back when I was getting all this, there was a type of chain available that was pretty aggressive - if I had gotten the mill, I probably would have bought it - but then it must have set some regulator hair on fire, because it disappeared from the market.

My location is central Kentucky. Not sure how much workable stock I'll end up with but I  thought I'd save some of these pieces and run them through a bandsaw at a later date....for various reasons that may not be a good plan...but I thought I'd try it. These ships really aren't that big so if I get a little pile of good stuff I'll take it. Bradford pear around here is a dime a dozen...After any storm I could get plenty if not in my own yard certainly on my road. I don't mind buying the lumber especially but if I can bring something from tree to project admittedly there is a little satisfaction there for me. I've worked with a lot of maple, specifically curly maple on powder horn plugs and other projects of my own such as euro mounts. It is my #1 favorite wood....I love the stuff. What will this maple be like to work  with....I have no idea. It may not be fit for much...I'm aware maple varies a great deal. Even the curly maple I've cut, carved and sanded on varies in hardness from piece to piece. These 2 maples that I'm getting my pieces from are red maples. They are about 10 year old trees. Here is a pick from last fall...Color difference was just part of the change. The 2nd pic is the one further back. 

That Grandberg guy sounds like an interesting fella....I'm in healthcare and have probably had my hands on a few of his devices. 

I did some clean up in the yard today, I have quite a few decent size maple pieces to piddle with. I'll pick up some exterior paint and get it under the carport in the next week or so....as well as some pear. 

After further reading I guess I'll also save some of my maple.  It isn't large logs but I'll see what I can get off of it. 

9 hours ago, Jaager said:

I have a bit of it.  Some is on the floor of my garage - dry and waiting to be processed into billets.  It is excellent for our use.  I love it.  Not near as much as Apple, but it is wonder stuff.  Differences from Pyrus communis is that it is more brown than pink and it has a waxed sheen to it.  There is some difference in the color of Spring and Summer wood and each can be fairly wide - the tree is fairly fast growing.

 

I used an electric chain saw (el cheepo HF) to bisect the largest - to speed seasoning and remove the pith. There was significant loss to kerf and a freehand chainsaw rip cut is dangerous.  An Alaska mill is both safer and produces more precise planks.  A log is difficult to place so that it does not move and the end of the bar does not have the teeth digging up soil.  The electric has lower power so the kickback force is easier to resist.  Beyond a certain thickness, a completely round log can be a real challenge to resaw on a bandsaw.  About the best that a tablesaw can do is 2" and a rolling log is a nightmare to rip cut.

 

I used left over enamel paint to make thick coats on the cut ends - too much checking if you do not seal the ends.  It dries faster if it is debarked and it removes carpenter ants and wood boring larvae eggs.  Seasoning is usually one year per inch of thickness.

For a lot of tree species, the branches are at ~ 90 degrees.  This offers the possibility of getting compass timber.  Unfortunately - Bradford Pear branches - splits into two equal forks mostly at a sharp "Y" .  This does not make for much useful compass timber.  For the tree itself, it means that the tree tends split like pealing a banana when exposed to high winds and the tree is old enough that there is a significant diameter ( weight).

Thanks for the info, it won't be the most efficienct process but I'll go ahead and cut some pieces up with my chainsaw and get it drying. 

Long time lurker here....in my readings I have found that pear wood is one of the preferred species to work with. Even the Bradford Pear that so many hate...I'm not a huge fan either but happen to have several in my yard that break regularly in wind and cold weather. A storm earlier this year brought down an entire tree. I still have access to it and the stump is actually still in my yard....If it's under my carport in the dry or in my basement how long before it's workable? Thanks - Aaron

Enjoyed the pics,..great build man. 

On 8/19/2017 at 7:50 PM, jdbondy said:

Are these meant to be for wood? Since it's on the Otto Frei web page, I imagine they are more meant for metal, specifically jewelry and watch making.

 

 

I want great quality for whatever I'm working on. I rarely work  with metal. Usually powder horns and wood,..and some plastic in the future as I piddle with scale a little more.....but this files can be used on whatever. Just choose the coarseness that suits you best. 

Hands down the Vallorbe files are the best I've ever found. If you are looking for larger files for any reason check out this series of files in various sizes

Vallorbe Swiss Machinist-Engineers Files-Hand LQ5010 | OttoFrei.com

Also this Italian Co. also carries quality products and offers some great rasps etc. 

CORRADI Shop - Italian made, high quality files and rasps

I hafted some handles on 18 a few weeks back. Mostly all swiss Vallorbe. 

Well done,..enjoyed the pics. 

Signed up and subscribed. 

On 2/22/2021 at 2:10 PM, allanyed said:

Tom

These are repeats of the above, but considering your time period of interest, I reinforce these for being considered for your library.   Others may also apply.

 

The Rigging Of Ships: In The Days Of The Spritsail Topmast, 1600-1720, Anderson, R.C.

The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War, 1625-1860 by James Lees

  NB: I would forget about Rigging Period Ship Models for your particular project, as it is specific to one rate of vessel in one time period in the 18th century.  

As your interest is 17th century, Richard Endor's books are a must for information from the keel up, including both The Restoration Warship and The Master Shipwrights Secrets. 

 

Also consider acquiring a few appropriate original contracts from the same time period once you have selected a ship to build.  The following is a portion of page one of an 8 page contract for two fifty gun English ships in 1693.  Transcribing these is fun and very challenging project in itself.

 

Allan

Wow,..that is great stuff. I scrimshaw 18th century style powder horns and I am constantly adding to my references for period script/writing. Where would I be able to find more pics of this subject matter? Man that is beautiful..thanks for posting. -Aaron

Nice work,.. following.

5 hours ago, allanyed said:

Hi Aaron,

And when I thought there were no more hobbies in which I would like to indulge, BANG, along you come with another thing that looks like a pleasure to do.   😀

Welcome aboard.

Allan

3 hours ago, bruce d said:

Hello Aaron, and a belated welcome. I agree with Alan, you never know when another interest (maybe promoted to 'hobby') will enter your sphere. Scrimshaw must be very rewarding. I have had the pleasure of seeing in person some of the work of Grinling Gibbons and it stirred an interest. Sadly, it turns out I have absolutely no apptitude for carving but am especially happy to see someone who does have the talent. 

Hope to see more of your work.

 

Bruce

Thanks Allan and Bruce..glad to be here. I'm no historian on carving but yes I'm familiar with Gibbons.. There is carving,...and there is carving,...and I'm just a piddler. Those European guys did things centuries ago in different mediums that don't seem possible even with today's tools and resources. Yes I like the scrimshaw and the horn making. My #1 will always be carving antler or bone but I just do what tickles my fancy that day,...sometimes it's both. 

Some super detailed pics ! Yes sir,..thanks for posting. 

I found this pretty readily. I'm sure it'a already around here somewhere but it might be new to someone. I found it to be a great read with several nice pics.

http://www.education.maritime-museum.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/marple.pdf

2 minutes ago, Louie da fly said:

That's a fairly ambitious first build, though certainly quite a few people have started on something that complex and succeeded.

 

On the other hand, a whaleboat such as the Model Shipways one - there's a build log here - 

 

might be a better project to begin on and develop the skills which will stand you in good stead when you move up to bigger and more complicated things, without being too overwhelming to start with.

Maybe I misspoke when I said "whaleboat". I think that is a beautiful model and exactly what I had in mind. Thanks for tip on a specific example 👍

4 hours ago, Dziadeczek said:

Sorry for this omission - I corrected it plus added some more pics from one of my earlier visits...

Regards,

Thomas

Thanks for the pics,...love the added ones as well. That Marples fella musta been something else...I've ran into his name a few times the last day or two here browsing. I'm going to spend some time later this evening doing some internet digging on him. - Aaron 

50 minutes ago, Louie da fly said:

Welcome to MSW, Aaron!

 

I've done a bit of work with bone and horn myself. Earlier in life I did mediaeval re-enactment and I've made combs and other artefacts from antler, but nothing of the quality you're doing.

 

Choose something simple to start off with. Too many people start on something hugely complicated and intricate, get frustrated and disappointed and give it up. But if you begin with a relatively simple model, get success with it, you can then go on to the more advanced models as your skills and understanding improve.

 

And once you've decided what to make, be sure you start a build log as well, so others can see your progress and give help, encouragement and advice. The instructions on how to start one are here:

 

 

And you may have noticed that there are sections of the forum for questions on specific aspects of a build,such as planking, sails and rigging etc. If you have a question, this is often the place to go.

Louie,..thanks for the response. Yes I actually love the way this forum is sectioned off. Especially for something as vast, intricate, and detailed as these ships. It's a large amount of subject matter. I checked out several,.and lurked around for a year or 2,.......but this is where I settled. As far as initial kits go those small whaling ships with all the tools of the trade would have my attention. Love the era,...it's early American. It's just my speed. Best Regards, -Aaron 

17 minutes ago, mtaylor said:

Bone models are fascinating.   We had a builder who started a scratch log using bone but he never finished.  Not sure what happened to him.

 

I'm on my largest bone/antler project at the moment,..be ashamed to tell you how long it's been on my bench. I work in other projects like scrimshaw and various things so it does extend completion time. However it is coming around and hopefully be finished in the not too distant future. My next bone antler project will be ship related. You guys will make fun of me because it may be as simple as an old style 1920's or 30's canoe,..but...I'll move forward from there. I love the viking long boats,..whaling boats are on the list for sure.  Sloops and clippers are beautiful as well....they also begin to get more complicated. I'm sure there is many more that appeal to me but I wouldn't know the names,..not nowhere the expert you guys are.  Those big monster HMS and Man of War ships some of you do are mind boggling,..not saying I would never attempt some sort of swing at it but at the moment no,.it is by no means on my horizon....but I still love to look 🤩

I know it's already on the boards here but Manfred's book on those bone models is one of the best books I own. For anyone with an interest in them it is worth the money. -Aaron