AnobiumPunctatum

I am glad you found them....
 
The flags and ensigns are now complete.   The dowels were tapered and painted red.   Then I added the trucks.   The flags are made just like on Cheerful.  They are printed on tissue paper and shaped on the staff.  The ensigns are the English flag from 1710 and Queen Anne's royal standard from the same time period. Next up will be the oars.
 

 

 
Chuck

Fantastic. I am looking forward to the kit.

Fantastic. I am looking forward to the kit.

Fantastic. I am looking forward to the kit.

Fantastic. I am looking forward to the kit.

Fantastic. I am looking forward to the kit.

Fantastic. I am looking forward to the kit.

The rudder ...the tiller and the thole pins are now complted.
 
The thole pins are made in two pieces as shown below.
 

This looks simple but these pieces are very small.  They were painted red after being glued into position.
 
The rudder is not a working rudder.  I mean its not done with working gudgeons/pintels etc.   I always find it works its way loose that way and I often pull it off and the parts are damaged.   So for simplicity the kit is designed with a non-working hinge that is simulated and the rudder doesnt work.  It is glued and fixed in position but you would never know.  Before starting on the pintles and gudgeons I cleaned up the rudder and tapered it towards the bottom of the rudder blade.  You can see the profile on the bottom of step 1.
 
This was possible because the rudder and stern post was designed with small tabs initially.  The simulated laserboard straps are simply glued onto the rudder and each side of the stern post.  Then the rudder is glued into position...
 
This drawing may help explain...

 
The tiller was turned from a 1/16" x 1/16" strip in my dremel rotary tool.

And finally the images of the model once the work was complete.  I am quite happy with how well the set up simulates pintels and gudgeons.  It made the process of installing the rudder easier since the flying transom makes it tough to work in such a confined location.  
 




 

I have finally had some time to devote to the workshop.  Last weekend was spent chasing the eclipse in Kentucky and testing (tasting) the Bourbon Trail.  Time very well spent.  After all...it was educational!
 
Next up were the head timbers.  Atalanta had three; some of the Swan class ships had four.  These were a royal pain-in-the-you-know-where to fabricate.  They have to fit the stem assembly as well as meet the main rail.  They also have the same camber as the grating.  The notches at the base of the timbers are because the various components of the stem assembly did not mate perfectly way back when.  I decided I would to more damage than it was worth to make it better and so modified the head timbers to fit instead.  In the second picture, one can see how the third head timber (the largest) fits under the head beam.  Each beam is a different thickness, with the fore beam being the thinnest.  This is most readily seen in the third picture.  These photos are all taken while the timbers were being shaped and so do not fit correctly at this stage.
 

 

 

 
 
The next step is to cut an opening in the head timbers to accommodate the middle rail.  This was simply a matter of trial and error, many hours and even many more expletive deleted's.  As I mentioned in a previous post, in the first timber the slot for the middle rail needed to be cut from the bottom rather than from the outer edge.  The next  item was the head saddle which extends from the fore ends of the main rail to the tip of the stem.  I started with an oversize piece of wood and carved the underside to fit first.  Then I cut the upper face and finally finished it on the model.  Now everything is ready for assembly.
 

 

 

 

 
 
The covering boards are 1" thick and cover the outer edge of the head timbers.  They have two panels carved into them.  Looking at the next photo I now see that the third timber needs to be unglued and re-positioned to make it perpendicular to the water line.  Hopefully I can accomplish that without damaging anything else.  The holes from the brass pins also need filling.
 

 

Progressing with carved details....
 

 

 

 

Slowly moving aft and getting more carvings completed.   Actually I am concentrating on the sculpted parts now and I will finish the carvings once they are all completed.  Rather than use my master boxwood carvings for the model, I am using resin castings instead.  So all of the carving details you see below are resin. I will keep the original carvings as masters for when the molds wear out.
Chuck

 

 

 

Hello Mike,
 
this looks like a really interesting building log and I will follow with great interest. You wrote in the first article, that the model based on a drawing of David Antscherl. I couldn't find a new book at Seawatch neither at the homepage. Where can I find more information?

Hello Mike,
 
this looks like a really interesting building log and I will follow with great interest. You wrote in the first article, that the model based on a drawing of David Antscherl. I couldn't find a new book at Seawatch neither at the homepage. Where can I find more information?

Thank you very much guys...
Moving right along I added the syren figures at the stern.   You can see how I dont have the acanthus leaves carved for the port side yet.   Not enough time in teh day !!!  I am gonna try and get the bust of queen Anne done next which goes on the outside of the tombstone transom.  These two Syren figures were the smallest I have made to date.  I could only merely suggest the details and hopefully your imagination will fill in the blanks.  At least that is what I hear is supposed to happen.  
 
Almost forgot...these are once again resin castings.  I will keep my sculpted originals as masters.
 
Chuck

 

 

more screenshots from UE4...
 
 

With our deck project complete, I've freed up some time to get back to the shipyard.  I decided to poly the fore and aft surfaces of the frames begore gluing them to the keel, when access is much more restricted.  I do have a couple of questions for previous builders of this model:
 
1) Is bracing between each frame necessary or advisable?   What should be the layout, and is there a historical precedent for this?
 
2) Should I cut the mortises for the gun port framing before assembly, or after the frames have been installed?
 
Here's a photo of the nine frames drying after the first coat of poly.  The can of Minwax gives some perspective as to how big a 1/24 scale section is!

I thought I should show the steps I'm taking in order to mark out deck clamps, etc...   Especially if I'm doing anything wrong..  I've cut the templates to fit the insides of the hull, resting on top of each bulkhead.  I've also sanded the insides of the hull in order to match the contours of the templates.  I'm now transferring the template markings  onto the insides of the bulkheads accordingly.  I plan on running a plank along the deck clamp line from stem to stern to serve as a support for the deck beams.   I'll also be planking the inside of the hull up to the deck clamps to add strength. The hull is extremely fragile right now.   I believe I'll also need to lay down planking on top of the bulkheads in a few areas, which will be visible from a hatch or two. 

Ok,  I believe I've found the offending bulkhead template.  I'd remembered there'd been a question regarding one of the POB Bulkhead templates before the server crash, but for the life of me couldn't remember the issue.    In the photos, you can see that the insides of bulkhead template 24 rest flush with the inside of the hull.  However bulkhead template 27 is FAR too wide.  I'd initially thought I'd just forgotten to resize down to 1:64 scale, so reprinted the template.  Unfortunately, that is the "correct" size.  If I were to widen the hull in back to accommodate the width of this template, I'd end up with a strange hull indeed.   In theory, since I have a smooth run along the hull all the way back to the transom (I still actually need to sand the area behind the last bulkhead MORE, I think the template is incorrect.  I'm extremely open to others' thoughts on this one.  
 
This is also the beauty of working on two ships at once.  When a snag is hit with one ship, you can move to the other build whilst resolving the issue with the first! 
 
Alan

Making a bit more progress here.  
 
The first pic shows planking up from the tops of the bulkheads to the deck clamping line.  I'd originally glued a single plank along the line, but have come back through and installed planking underneath in order to help with the strength of the hull as it's so fragile at this point.  It was fun to install planking in a fast/haphazard way knowing it won't be visible and that I still don't need to be careful about appearance yet.  The only thing that I'm concerned with at this point is stability/strength.  However the tops of the bulkheads in the middle will be a different story.  I'm thinking about using maple for the decking throughout, and the tops of the bulkheads will be a nice place to practice deck planking, as I've not planked a deck since 2008!  It also appears that the planking in the center could be somewhat visible if I leave the hatches off on the gundeck, etc, which I'm planning to do.  The tops of the bulkheads don't have a camber at all, but I'm thinking that's not a huge deal, and won't be discernible from above on this deck.
 
The second pic just shows the contour of the hull (stern still needs to be shaped as well as a few other areas) at this point and the beginning of the planking up from the keel (not installed yet, as I'm going to double plank this one).  Now that I have a number of planks installed on both sides from the keel up, I'm going to pretend that this is the "real" planking, and will practice shaping stealers, etc if they are required.  I've given myself different dimensions of space to work with on each side so the calculations will come out differently, giving me more practice, etc before I install the final outside planking.  Am still debating about what wood to use for the outside planking, but am considering a mahogany veneer.
 
Alan

I am very sorry to write this, but I have to stop my build log for a longer period.
 
My company send me to big infrastructure project to the Netherlands. I my apartment there I don't have the possibility to work with timber. When I am at home, I will spend the spare time with my wife and friends. The project is definitely not stopped and I will continue after the project.
 
I the meantime I will work on some drawing projects which I have in my mind (for example a disposition of frames for the Anson from Alexander) and start with card modeling. I hope we will read us. Thanks to all members on MSW who helped me to reach my current stand in the project

Thanks very much for your interest

The last part of the backbone is the Stern, consisting of the Inner Post and the Stern Post. I build a small jig to adapt the Stem to the Deadwood:

 
For fixing the Stern on the Deadwood I use small brass pins. At the keel I used a simplified tenon joint:

 
Next I milled the scores for the transoms and the rudder hinges:

 
The last picture shows the nearly finished port side of the arrangement. I lost a little the sharp edge of the rabbet, but don't think that I can do it better. So I will live with it. After finishing the starbordside and glueing the complete arrangement together, I will final sand the everything.

 
The two parts of the stern are real tricky and so I am very happy if I can fnish this part. Greg has spllitted his stern post in two part. If I have to do this part another time, I think I will follow this way. The rabbet at the transoms is than a littlebit simplified, but I think his way makes life much simpler.
 

It's a little bit of time over that I last read your log. The progress is absolut fantastic. I love the detailed description of your steps. 

Congrats for finishing this really beautyful model. I looks a little bit like a model that was build 100 years ago. That is what I think makes the model really special

@Hjx 
 
What kind of software do you use? Is it Blender?