AnobiumPunctatum
-
Posts
1,233 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in Triton cross section by Anguirel -1:48
Aguriel,
if you have Antscherls TFFM have a look in volume 1, page 88. There is a description for the correct position of the treenails in the chocks.
To your observations and questions:
correct correct correct Yes, only the floor timbers and first futtocks are glued together. The timbers for the other frames are thinner and there the double frames will be connected with spacers. B and D are single frames. The change of double and single frames is common for English ships of this period. Frame 0: floor timber 1ft 4in, second futtock 1ft 3in, fourth futtock 1ft 1in; Frame 1 and (A): first futtock 1ft 4in, third futtock 1ft, 2in, top timber 1ft 1in That's a question of what you want. In the group build all timbers ofthe frames have the same size. In the original ship the timbers will become thinner. In my opinion and if this is your first try I would follow this simplification. If you like to know the correct sizes I will have a look in my book. Yes, there are the spacers. If you follow the dimensions in the books the top timbers are 1/4in smaller. I think that this is negligible in 1/48. The position of the gun ports gives the position of the frames The sizes of the timbers and the tolerances define the space. I would start to build the double frames and position them correct. Then I would add the filling frames (single frames) regular between them. See answer 6 -
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Martin W in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
The last part of the backbone is the Stern, consisting of the Inner Post and the Stern Post. I build a small jig to adapt the Stem to the Deadwood:
For fixing the Stern on the Deadwood I use small brass pins. At the keel I used a simplified tenon joint:
Next I milled the scores for the transoms and the rudder hinges:
The last picture shows the nearly finished port side of the arrangement. I lost a little the sharp edge of the rabbet, but don't think that I can do it better. So I will live with it. After finishing the starbordside and glueing the complete arrangement together, I will final sand the everything.
The two parts of the stern are real tricky and so I am very happy if I can fnish this part. Greg has spllitted his stern post in two part. If I have to do this part another time, I think I will follow this way. The rabbet at the transoms is than a littlebit simplified, but I think his way makes life much simpler.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Martin W in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Thanks very much for your interest
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Charter33 in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
The last part of the backbone is the Stern, consisting of the Inner Post and the Stern Post. I build a small jig to adapt the Stem to the Deadwood:
For fixing the Stern on the Deadwood I use small brass pins. At the keel I used a simplified tenon joint:
Next I milled the scores for the transoms and the rudder hinges:
The last picture shows the nearly finished port side of the arrangement. I lost a little the sharp edge of the rabbet, but don't think that I can do it better. So I will live with it. After finishing the starbordside and glueing the complete arrangement together, I will final sand the everything.
The two parts of the stern are real tricky and so I am very happy if I can fnish this part. Greg has spllitted his stern post in two part. If I have to do this part another time, I think I will follow this way. The rabbet at the transoms is than a littlebit simplified, but I think his way makes life much simpler.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from mtaylor in Golden Hind (ex-Pelican) by Baker - FINISHED - scale 1/45 - Galleon late 16th century
Patrick,
you post some interesting pictures of some books. Please can you give more information about the title, author, ISBN and so on. Thanks.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from KenW in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
The last part of the backbone is the Stern, consisting of the Inner Post and the Stern Post. I build a small jig to adapt the Stem to the Deadwood:
For fixing the Stern on the Deadwood I use small brass pins. At the keel I used a simplified tenon joint:
Next I milled the scores for the transoms and the rudder hinges:
The last picture shows the nearly finished port side of the arrangement. I lost a little the sharp edge of the rabbet, but don't think that I can do it better. So I will live with it. After finishing the starbordside and glueing the complete arrangement together, I will final sand the everything.
The two parts of the stern are real tricky and so I am very happy if I can fnish this part. Greg has spllitted his stern post in two part. If I have to do this part another time, I think I will follow this way. The rabbet at the transoms is than a littlebit simplified, but I think his way makes life much simpler.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Nirvana in HMS Pegasus 1776 by Trussben - 1:48 - Swan-class sloop based on TFFM
Wonderful progress, Ben. It's looking really good.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Thanks druxey. That sentence helps me a lot. I hope now, that I can finish the drawing until this weekend.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
@Ed
Thank you. I use also the waterlines of the half breath plan. I am sure that's a lot more work to draw this manually because it was more than enough work with my CAD.
You're right. But it made a lot of fun to do this exercise.
Also I had some points I want to check with the drawing. On the Half Breath Plan were only the positions and angles of every second cant frame given. I wanted to check the reconstrction of the other cants. What's with the position of the gun ports? WHich cant frames do I have to shift? Is every timberhead given in the Sheer and Profile drawing on top of a frame?
If I compared the position of the timberheads given in the Sheer and Profile of Fly and in the DOF plan of Cygnet, I found some alterations, for example at the fore cants. I wanted to check the consequences for the frame design.
@druxey
I've checked the position of all timberheads of the Sheer and Profile drawing and my reconstruction again. At the after cant frames I found two timberheads whose position do not really match with my cants. The position of the other four timberheads is ok.
So I think to change my design will not solve the problem.
What do you think is the better solution? To move the timberhead or to add a timber between the frames and not to change the position.
@all
Thanks for your interest and hints, which I really appreciate.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Thanks for the Likes and comments
@druxey
Hopefully yes, but I will check this again and add them to the drawing. There is one timerhead, which was also shown on the Cygnet drawing that is positioned between two frames.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Today it rained all day, so I had enough time to finish the design of the cant frames
The Bollard Timbers and Hawse Pieces are missing to complete the planning of framework.
The individual components and the frames I'll draw later during the build.
Next, the construction of the two-stage slipway is on the ToDo list, then I can lay down the keel for the model.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
In the moment I am working on a corrected disposition of frames drawing for my sloop
The basis are
DOF of Cygnet (ZAZ4691) Dimensions given in "The Ship Builders Repository", 1788 (1) Dimensions given in Steel "The Element and Practice of Naval Architecture", 1805 (1) Antscherl TFFM, Volume 1
(1) The dimensions I took from Allan Yedlinsky "Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships 1719-1805". The original books are unfortunately to expansive for my hobby budget.
The different timbers for the keel and the knee of the head, I took from David's book. I only adapt these to the other proportions.
After a lot of measurements in the DOF of Cygnet and comparing with the given dimensions, I decided to follow Steel. I am really surprised how well the frames fit to the original drawing. If you compare the numbers of the sweep ports with the original drawing, yo see that there is one port missing, because it was not shown on the As built drawing.
In the moment I am drawing the cant frames, which is much easier as by my second project.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Welcome on board, Daniel. The work on the llines is finished. In the moment I work on the disposition of frames drawing.
It's very interesting to compare the Cygnet drawing with the Shipbuilders Repository and Steel to get the thickness of the different timbers. And the to compare this with David's results.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from KenW in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Welcome on bord, Antony
The completion of the hull of my control model in the region behind the last frames has attracted much longer than expected.
When planning the last phase of the construction I realized that the body plan of the original drawing and therefore my reconstruction at the top of the last two frames is too narrow. So back to the drawing board and the frames 19 and 20 newly constructed. The hull at frames 20 is now about 1 mm wider in the region of maximum breath than originally. With the help of several buttok lines and the new water lines I have also redesigned the transoms
I haven't add all changes on the test hull, so you can see in the pictures the not entirely harmonious course of the lines.
The first step of my little project -the reconstruction of the lines- is complete.
In between, I have asked myself several times whether the construction of the half-model was even necessary. After the problems in the reconstruction of the transoms and fashion pieces, that define the shape of the stern, have identified, the construction of the test model was more than worth. I am happy to have the mistakes now and not found during the construction of the POF model.
In the next few weeks I'll construct keel, frames and all other components that are needed to build the hull. In autumn I like to start the construction of the POF model. Until then, one last picture which shows the side view of the test hull.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Thanks druxey and Jan.
@Jan
This would a nice idea, but we don't have the possibility to place the half model on the wall. We live in attic floor apartement
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
This is the current stand of my reconstruction. As you see on the pictures I've need some putty after sanding. This has two reasons.
I've sanded to much on frame 20 The lines for the transoms have some smaller mistakes. During the last month I've redrwan the transoms. Also I've corrected a small mistake of the maximum breath in this area. In the moment I add the counter timbers to my drawing and complete the half model to check the revised design.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
Then my favourite pastime - sanding
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.
The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.
First half of frame 0
Six frames have been installed.
At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.
Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
To check the lines I started to build a half model. For the frames I use 3mm birch plywood, it's for a model in 1/32 perhaps a little small, but I've had a bigger batch at home. All space between the frames I fill with poplar plywood. It's easy to shape but stable enough for the purpose.
I glue the drawngs with rubber cement on the ply woord
With a sharp knife I mark every 5' line. The picture shows frame 0:
All bulkheades and the center are cutted out. The hull has a length of around 1m, which is not as big compared with the new 1/200 model kits of the WWII battle ships.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Part 1 Reconstruction of the hull lines
David Antscherl wrote in his wonderful series about th Swan Class Sloop, that there are a lot of smaller differences between the ships of the class, for example the knee of the head of Fly.
As first decision for my new start I decided not to use the general lines, which David has published. I want to do my own reconstruction. The naval cutter was a first exercise for this project. In January I started with the reconstruction. At the end of February I had a first version of my body plan, which matchs the lines of the historical drawing very well.
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Docmuents (I will update the list during my build):
NMM drawings:
ZAZ4667: Line & inboard profile, decoration of 'Fly' ZAZ4669: Lower & Platform Decks of 'Fly' ZAZ4670: Quarter and Upper deck plan of 'Fly ZAZ4691: Disposition of Frames of 'Cygnet' Books:
David Antscherl, "The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780", Volume 1 - 4 David Antscherl, "Swan class sheer and profile, scale 1:48", corrected frames Allan Yedlinsky: Scantlings of Royal Navy ships David White: Understanding ship draughts David Antscherl: Understanding Eighten-Century Admirality drafts -
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
The Swan Class Sloop and I have as some of you know a longer history. Two years ago I started my build log for the build in 1/48. A few month later I had to stop the build because I got some problems with my eyes. At the beginning of this year I started again. I decided to change the scale of my build to 1/32.
I hope that some of you are intersted in my build and like to follow my log.
So let's start again
-
AnobiumPunctatum got a reaction from Eddie in HM Sloop Fly by AnobiumPunctatum - 1:32 - POF
Thank you very much for the Likes and the nice words.
Our Emblem ®
