AnobiumPunctatum

I love the discussions.  So much knowledge here.  More work on the beams.  Since the great cat passes thru what would be the center of beam #2, carlings had to be installed to support the beam parts.  From work on my Echo Section, I learned a very effective way of creating mortices and tenons.  They are cut on an angle at the top as is the deck beam.
 

 
They then fit nicely into the angled slot on the beam.  Slight differences in elevation can be sanded off easily.  Notice the positions of the carlings are slightly different.  The starboard one is parallel to and directly above the side of the keelson.  The port one (shown below) is about 8" further to the side and passes between the two bowsprit bitts.
 

 
The same technique will be used to connect the beam pieces to the carlings.
Maury

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 188 – Completing Main and Fore Masts
 
Just a few finishing up steps were required to complete the two large lower masts.  First, the tops of the hounds had to be angled to the rake of their masts so the tops, when fitted, would be level.  The foremast rake is about 4.75 degrees and the main is at about 5.4 degrees.  A plywood gauge, shown in the first picture was trimmed on each side to these angles.
 

 
This gauge was then used to check the angle of the hounds as it was trimmed back by filing, as shown below.
 

 
The gauge is held parallel to the masthead in the picture.  These mastheads are not tapered.  Both sides had to be matched.  These will get a final trim when the tops are installed and can be levelled more accurately and in both directions. 
 
The next picture shows the main and fore masts with all the construction work completed.
 

 
All the foremast ironwork has been blackened in the picture.  This was all done all at once after all the bands, including the masthead bands were installed and all other work on the mast completed.  This was done to avoid excessive handling of the blackened bands.  Liver of sulfur solution was brushed into each band until black.  Brushing helps eliminate black powdery buildup.  As each band was blackened it was rinsed under running water.  The masts were left to dry overnight then given a finish of Tung oil diluted 50%, applied with cotton swabs.  In the next picture a dry cotton swab is being used to soak up any excess oil.
 

 
The Tung oil restores the tone of the Castello and protects the blackened metal as well as the wood.  The mastheads were left unfinished so that wood fittings may be added later after the tops are slipped over.  The last picture shows the two masts placed temporarily in position to allow the Tung oil to dry..
 

 
Mast wedges will be made and fitted at the partners later, probably after the tops and masthead trim is installed.  This will permit that work to be completed on the workbench.  Meanwhile, the mizzen mast is in the works.
 
Ed

Still a little managed to find time to ship. Bent blanks for rail. Set falsеkeel, bowsprit, etc.

Welcome on the Triton Shipyards. I wish you a lot of fun with your build

More work on the beams.  Through-bolts are installed.
 

 
Each beam will get lined up according to the beam plan, subject to any little positioning adjustments.  The bowsprit bitts go from the frame at the edge of the keel / keelson through the deck and terminate 2' 3" above the deck.  I installed a spacer to keep them parallel with the notches in the beam and did a test fit.  Keep in mind, the bowsprit is off-set from center because of the great cat occupying that position.
 


 
The bitts are the only things sticking out above the deck beams until I get to the deck furniture.  I think I can protect them when the boat is off the building board, so cutting and fitting knees comes next.
Maury

A bunch of little things.  The fore and aft below-deck platforms are completed and set in place (not glued yet).  The forward two sections of the water tank have been raised 15" since they do not interfere with the gear deck.  They now go up almost to the bottom of the main deck beams and raise the capacity of the two sections by about 35%. The added pieces still need to be oiled.
 

 

 
The gear deck beams and some planking have been laid down to check for clearance between the top of the gear and the bottom of the beams.  Just fits with about 1.5" to spare.
 

 

 
The capstans and partners will conceal some of the detail, but if Toni Levine can have a seaman lounging in hammocks on the lower deck of Atalanta, I can hide some work too.  Careful alignment of the gear-deck beams so the axle of the rear (small gear) does not interfere will be next.
Maury

Welcome on the Triton Shipyards. I wish you a lot of fun with your build

Mirek, thank you.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel

Thank you, Keith.
 
 
 
Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
Pawel

Lawrence, computers are a pain and sometimes I hate them but then I remember no matter how slow they are we wouldn’t have MSW to keep in touch and have that comradery I need to keep going with boat modeling.
 
Julie, I love the way you think, It’s like me.
 
Welcome aboard, Gerhard, I’ll try to keep you entertained.
 
Now here is where I am now.  The saw blade came yesterday so I need to mount that and cut wood for the other boat.  For this one I’m moving right along.  I built the walls for the saloon.  They’re not finished yet but placing them in the hull helps clarify the finished boat. 
 
Bob
 

 

 

I don't have the time!!! Very slow progress in the construction of the ship...

Update.... Milled Keel assembly in 1:32 scale. Have included a photo to show the contrast in dimensions. I'm currently preparing the frames for layout and cutting. Quite an experience for me and this is only a cross section.
 
Dupree

At the request of fellow forum MSW few more pictures.
 
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
The whole process of this model is described at this address:
 
http://www.koga.net....php?f=7&t=45782
 
on Polish modeling forum "Koga"

Cheers all for the likes and comments .  Latest full view with the main mast slotted in and mizzen started.  Getting to the point where I can see the finishing line now.  Which reminds me I must get round to making a cabinet for her soon.

Nice progress, Tony. I like the way ypou build the bitts

Nice progress, Tony. I like the way ypou build the bitts

Nice progress, Tony. I like the way ypou build the bitts

December 2016

 

Fig- 49 - Please bare in mind that there is a big BIG learning curve for me in this build - a first time for me, and as no one that I know of has written anything on the subject of building an iron ship in miniature, it is called flying-by-the-seat-of-your-pants, so many mistakes on the way, most of which will be shown as is.  Here we see the first stage in making up the ships plating - Sets of six plates, complete with rivet heads and Butt Straps, ready to be assembled/attached/soft soldered to the Garboard Strake. The mistake is that although the first couple of strikes of plating will be in a straight line, there after, there will be a very slight curve in them.  At the  4th -&- 5th  strakes it is very slight indeed, but if ignored, can give big problems later on.  It is still possible to make up the plating in lengths of several plate such as this, but we will see later, a very simple way to finely adjust that all important curve in laying up the plates.  Note the small strap across the Bar Keel between the first strake of Plating on each side, at the point of contact for each Frame.  The Frame must be in contact with the ships Plating at all points to be able to be riveted to it.  As the Plating is in the form of One in and One out, a filler piece is required between the ‘Out Plate’ and the Frame at each point of contact.

 

Fig- 50 - The ‘Ship Yard’ - the last of the tools.  This consist of a precision  machined aluminium plate with grooves to hold columns on which are mounted a series of arms to hold the frames in place and vertical while they are assembled to form the ships hull.  Six columns are provided each of the columns has two arms, with three fingers at the end of each.  These correspond to the spacing of the Frames.  All of the parts are fully adjustable at all points, so could accomodate the Falls of Clyde hull for it’s full length.  Although the plate will only hold 24 Frames at one time, the Hull, as we will see, can be moved through the ‘Yard’ as the build progresses.  The centre of the plate has a groove down the full length that contains a carriage, to which the Bar Keel and Garboard Strake assembly is held in place with a clamp. 

Over this is a mechanism/clamp, also fully adjustable,  to hold the individual frame in place while it is soft soldered to the assembly below, the top of the Frame being supported  at two points on each side, by the fingered arms on the columns as can be seen,  The columns and the frame clamp can be relocated to any position on the base plate to suit the job in hand. Provision is also made to make the whole assembly live, when connected to the resistant soldering unit, the essential means by which all of the soft soldering is undertaken on the hull assembly

 

Fig- 51 - The Frame Clamp set up with a Frame under the business end, while the sides of the frame is held perfectly vertical by the fingered arms attached to the columns on each side.  Note the PIP at the bottom of the Floor in the centre, which is set over a corresponding hole in the Bar Keel made to take it, and so locate the frame in its correct position.  The next step is to flux the area to be soldered, slip in between the Frame and the Keel assembly a small sliver of flattened soft solder, adjust the clamp to press the parts together, and apply heat to the precise area with the live carbon tip to fuse the parts together.

 

Fig- 52 - Here we see the first series of frames being assembled to the keel, with the next Frame ready to Go-Up.  The fingers on the column will then be slid in and be locked in place, once the frame is lined up with it’s neighbours, a solder tab slid in place at the bottom, clamp applied, heat applied, assembly moved forward and process then repeated until all the required Frames are in place.  Note that it is only alternate Frames that have deck beams, and that each is provided with a tag holding it’s number.  With twenty Frames made and ready for assembly at the centre section of the hull, all seemingly of the same shape and size - which they are not -  big problems are there for the unweary.  Note also the seeming disk at the bottom of the photos.  This is in fact a reel of soft solder that has been passed through the flat rollers of the RHM to make it paper thin, then trimmed to three fingers.  These are snipped off as required and used to sit between fluxed and tinned parts to be soft soldered together. Apart from the use of tinning parts - applying a thin layer of soft solder  to the part -  the soldering iron is not used at all in the assembly of the hull.  The reason being that it will of necessity leave a solder residue after it’s use.  Here the soft solder is used in place of the actual rivets, so none should be visible in/on the finished joint.  The only way - that I have found - is to use a minimum amount on each surface - tinning - and place a very small - tab/sliver - of solder between the parts.  Then hold the parts together and apply heat - in this case with the tip of the resistance soldering carbon rod.

GUN DECK WATERWAYS
 
Having thought about the gun deck waterways I realised I just had to learn how to make and use a scraper as the shape was too complex for the simple use of a saw as I had done previously for the lower deck
 
So I made my scraper and found that it was not that hard to use – especially if I kept the old hacksaw blade edges really sharp by frequent rubbing on the diamond stone.
 

 

 
PILLARS FOR GUN DECK BEAMS
 
These were shaped on the lathe as before. I am only using three pillars, and decided to leave off pillars on either side of the steps.
 

 
BITT PINS
 
I first attempted to make these from single blocks of wood, but found that cutting the sheaves using a jeweller’s saw was too inaccurate. In addition, the mill bits I have are too short to go the full length.
 

 
So I went the route of making them from three strips, with the central slice cut very simply with the desktop Proxxon saw.
 
The sheave holes were then cut in the outer strips again using the bench saw.
 
The sheaves themselves were cut in brass rod using one of my home-made gravers. I used dividers to establish the width of the sheave, then a jeweller’s saw to define the outer extent. After then cutting the groove in the sheave it was a simple matter to cut the sheave off the bar using the jeweller’s saw.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Next up: putting together the beams, carlings, ledges etc for the gun deck.
 
Tony

With adding of the gallows bitts most of the “deck furnitures” are complete. The deck is looking a bit more interesting now  .
 
Thomas
 
 

Image 1
 
 

Image 2
 
 

Image 3

A WINDOW ON HMS TERROR
 
By 1845, Terror’s stern windows were very different from those Captain John Sheridan gazed through as he bombarded Baltimore in 1814. In 1812, Henry Peake designed a relatively traditional stern gallery for HMS Terror, which included seven stern lights in addition to six windows arranged on her port and starboard quarter galleries. Each of the stern windows had nine panes, while the smaller quarter gallery windows had six panes.
 

Henry Peake's original 1812 design for Terror's stern gallery and quarter galleries. 
NMM, ZAZ5662
 
When Terror was first converted for polar service over 1835 and 1836, its vulnerable quarter galleries (and the water closets they contained) were removed, resulting in a reduction to five stern windows. Contemporary artwork by Owen Stanley indicates that the windows retained their original nine-pane configuration during Back's harrowing Arctic expedition of 1836-1837.
 
 
Terror's stern lights in 1837. Note the cipher and ship's name depicted above the hanging rudder.
 NMM, PAF0275
 
Since the time of Parry’s second Arctic voyage, 24 years previously, polar exploration vessels had been fitted with "double window-frames" (1), and Terror undoubtedly had double windows installed for Back’s 1836 -1837 Arctic voyage. Parry described that during the coldest months, "cork shutters" were inserted between the sashes on HMS Hecla (1), and it is possible that cork shutters were used on Terror’s subsequent polar voyages. 
 
Contemporary images suggest that Terror's stern gallery remained unchanged during the Antarctic expedition of 1839-1843, when Terror was under the command of Francis R.M. Crozier, although the 1839 Terror and Erebus plans indicate that significant changes were made to the great cabin itself. 
 
In the spring of 1845, Terror and Erebus had their sterns dismantled and reconstructed to accommodate large wells needed to raise and lower their new screw propellers. The centre window on the stern of each vessel was removed to make room for the new well. Green-ink annotations on Terror’s 1836 plans show that her stern frames were shifted slightly forward during the 1845 refit. The reasons for such an extensive refit are unclear, but it may have been necessary to redesign the stern framing to accommodate the weight and stress of the new propeller system. 
 
While it appears that the remaining four stern windows were kept (roughly) in their original positions in 1845, the windows themselves were redesigned from a nine-pane to a four-pane configuration. We know this because of a remarkable woodcut of the great cabin of HMS Erebus, which appeared in the May 24th, 1845 issue of the Illustrated London News (2). The accompanying article described that the windows were “double[d]”, similar to those used on Parry’s voyages. Astonishingly, high resolution images of the cabin illustration in the report clearly show the double sashes.
 
Why the stern lights were modified to a four-pane design is unknown, but the woodcut indicates that by 1845 the window muntins were much more robust than those on a typical stern window. A sturdier design might have been thought necessary, after the unprecedented heavy seas and storms Terror and Erebus encountered during their Antarctic expedition.  However, we know that the thickness of the glass was not increased, because window glass recovered from HMS Erebus in 2015 has the same  thickness as that specified on Terror’s (i.e., Belzebub’s) original 1812 building contract (3). 
 
Below, I’ll outline how I have recreated Terror’s windows for my model. Though few pictures have been released, they appear to compare well with the recent Parks Canada images of Terror’s stern. 
 
 
References:
 
(1) Parry, William Edward. 1824. Journal of a Second Voyage for the Discovery of a North-west Passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific: Performed in the Years 1821- 22-23, in His Majesty's Ships Fury and Hecla, Under the Orders of Captain William Edward Parry, R.N., F.R.S., and Commander of the Expedition. London.
 
(2) Departure of the “Erebus” and “Terror” on the Arctic Expedition. Illustrated London News, May 24th, 1845. Volume 6, Page 328.
 
(3) National Maritime Museum, ADT0010
 
 

Construction of the stern windows began with laser cutting the 
sashes from a sheet of Swiss pear. 
 

A bevel was added to each muntin with a hand file. The filed 
windows are on the left, the unfinished windows are on the right. 
 

Comparing progress to the original woodcut.
 

Instead of adding four individual panes, I opted to add a single simulated pane. 
This was achieved by carving out the backside of the windows to 
accept the simulated glass. 
 

The window panes were made from high quality PVC blister packaging material. 
It is crystal clear, resists yellowing, and bonds well with CA glue. The painter's 
tape protects the surface from scratches and permits patterns to be drawn 
on the surface. 
 
 
A beading line of CA was used to glue the panes in place. 
 

Allowing the glue to dry. 
 

A pair of finished windows compared to the woodcut. Note the double 
sashes in the woodcut image. 
 

Gluing the sills to the sashes. These are not the proper configuration, 
but will not be visible on the finished model. 
 

A nickle for scale. 
 

The completed double windows.  
 

A closeup view.
 

The interior panes were sanded to simulate frost (and to prevent a 
view into the interior of the model). 
 

The port stern lights installed between the stern frames. 
 

A view from the interior of the model. The imposing nature of the 
well can be seen here.  
 

Approximating the view from the great cabin 
(as best possible).
 

The completed stern gallery.
 

Mini-Cozier surveys the pack from the comfort of his great cabin.

positioning tests: