AnobiumPunctatum

Hello,
 
today I painted the aft screen and when I was ready I thought, wow. That is looking better then that what I did on the wall in two colors.
 
What would you say, should I paint it all in only one color? 
 
It's not because of the paint job, that is really horrible and I bought today new brushes, but I think it is looking better and you could see the paneling better.
 
Regards,
Siggi

Siggi - I much prefer the single colour.

The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
 

 

 

 
 

Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
 

 

 

 
To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.
 

 

 

 

 

Really nice progress, Grant

With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.

The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.
 

First half of frame 0
 
Six frames have been installed.
 

 
At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.


 
Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible
 

 

The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
 

 

 

 
 

Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
 
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
 

 
Then my favourite pastime - sanding
 

 

Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
 

 

 

 
To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.
 

 

 

 

 

Many thanks Peter,
 
appreciate your good advice, I´ll see if my local Obi-market has the product on stock.
 
I used to apply two-component polyester filler before, but that has too short working time and cures out very hard, so that the sanding afterwards is creating finest "powder" all over the room.
 
Today I completed the stand-plate (for three brass pedestals not finished yet), and stained it cherry wood color, same fashion as for the other ships and their glass cases baseplates. Still need to put some dull silk surface varnish on it
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

Really nice progress, Grant

Thanks once again for all the kind words folks and to all those who hit the "like" button.
 
The Main Hatch
 
The main hatch was a fairly simple construction using Redheart for the Coamings and Head Ledges, and Walnut for the Hatch Cover Boards. Templates were made from the drawings to assist with the lap joints and round up. Once the timber components of the hatch had been completed, two coats of Wipe-On Poly were applied to the Hatch, the Mortar Pit Housing and the deck frames on the Starboard side (which will not be planked).
 
Lifting rings for both Mortar Pit Housing and the Main Hatch were made from brass wire formed around a drill bit, cut off with a rotary cutting disc and then soldered closed (I cheated and used a lead/tin soft solder).  These were blackened chemically using a new (for me) product called Jax Pewter Black.  Its claim is that it blackens all sorts of metals, including solder.  After a bit of experimentation, I settled on diluting the solution 50/50 with distilled water, and after the usual cleaning process with vinegar and acetone beforehand, it seems to work fairly well. The same process was used to install lifting rings in the mortar pit housing.
 
The Waterways were next to be tackled.  These are made from boxwood and have two angled faces on the top side, which are not even.  I thought about how to mill these for quite some time. After a tip from Danny, I tried to follow his technique of making a scraper from an old exacto chisel blade. Although I managed to make a reasonable shape for one angle, I couldn’t get an edge on it sufficient to scrape the timber.  After some more thought, I marked out the profile along the length of the timber, and then used a couple of very small planes – one Veritas squirrel tail palm plane, and one even smaller Japanese finger plane. These worked a treat and the job turned out to be much easier than I had expected.
 
Here’s a couple of pictures showing the current state of play.
 

 

 
 
 

Thanks everyone for the kind words and also to all of the likes.  Progress continues at a glacial pace, but I'm slowly catching up to Mobbsie (albeit that will only be a temporary state of affairs!).
 
Mortar Pit Housing
 
Construction of the Mortar Pit Housing is relatively straight forward, once you get your head around the angles involved.  Although the corner diagonal walls have two 45-degree faces, the faces need to be of different widths in order to align properly with the side/end walls.  It only took me three attempts to work this out……
 
The other thing that became immediately obvious once I started to fit the Mortar Pit walls, was that the pre-cut notches in the surrounding beams (for the angled carlings), were very poorly cut and positioned.
 

 

 
I decided to glue the Mortar Pit Housing in place and then adjust the notches to allow a proper fit of the carlings. This left some unsightly gaps, which I have filled with a mixture of sawdust and diluted PVA glue. 
 

 
The end result looks okay, but the lesson learned is that it would have been better to NOT pre-cut the notches for the angled carlings.  It was not as difficult as might be imagined to cut them in-situ (with a sharp chisel) once the mortar pit housing was in place.

This is the current stand of my reconstruction. As you see on the pictures I've need some putty after sanding. This has two reasons.
I've sanded to much on frame 20 The lines for the transoms have some smaller mistakes. During the last month I've redrwan the transoms. Also I've corrected a small mistake of the maximum breath in this area. In the moment I add the counter timbers to my drawing and complete the half model to check the revised design.

Started to do the forecastle deck framing.
 
For some reason the order of the picture got all messed up...
 
Alexandru

The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
 

 

 

 
 

This is the current stand of my reconstruction. As you see on the pictures I've need some putty after sanding. This has two reasons.
I've sanded to much on frame 20 The lines for the transoms have some smaller mistakes. During the last month I've redrwan the transoms. Also I've corrected a small mistake of the maximum breath in this area. In the moment I add the counter timbers to my drawing and complete the half model to check the revised design.

The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
 

 

 

 
 

Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
 
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
 

 
Then my favourite pastime - sanding
 

 

Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
 

 

 

 
To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.
 

 

 

 

 

With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.

The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.
 

First half of frame 0
 
Six frames have been installed.
 

 
At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.


 
Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible
 

 

The Swan Class Sloop and I have as some of you know a longer history. Two years ago I started my build log for the build in 1/48. A few month later I had to stop the build because I got some problems with my eyes. At the beginning of this year I started again. I decided to change the scale of my build to 1/32.
I hope that some of you are intersted in my build and like to follow my log.

So let's start again
 

Docmuents (I will update the list during my build):

NMM drawings:
ZAZ4667: Line & inboard profile, decoration of 'Fly' ZAZ4669: Lower & Platform Decks of 'Fly' ZAZ4670: Quarter and Upper deck plan of 'Fly ZAZ4691: Disposition of Frames of 'Cygnet' Books:
David Antscherl, "The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780", Volume 1 - 4 David Antscherl, "Swan class sheer and profile, scale 1:48", corrected frames Allan Yedlinsky: Scantlings of Royal Navy ships David White: Understanding ship draughts David Antscherl: Understanding Eighten-Century Admirality drafts

The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
 

 

 

 
 

Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
 
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
 

 
Then my favourite pastime - sanding