AnobiumPunctatum

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 18 – Fairing the Upper Works
 
When the hull was faired earlier, in the inverted position, little attention was paid to the upper works, so the outside of the toptimbers needed some work.  The sanding required to fair the outside of these was light.  The first picture shows this in progress using 220-grit paper on a Softsander® foam pad.
 

 
In the next picture the fairness is being checked with a pine batten.
 

 
The toptimbers were molded 6” at the top.  In the next picture this is being checked with calipers. 
 

 
You can see from the reading that they are still oversized somewhat at .076”.  They would later be faired to the final 6” (.0625”) by sanding the insides – but only after some reinforcing outer planking was in place.  However, it was necessary at this stage to fair the deck “beams” accurately – as shown in the next photo.
 

 
Fairing of the deck was particularly important to avoid waviness in the thin deck planking that would be added later.  In the next picture this is being checked during the sanding process using a pine batten.
 

 
When this work was being done, I did not expect to take this model to much further and consequently spent less time getting the deck line faired than I should have.  I will show the final deck planking later.  While acceptable, more attention at this stage would have yielded a truly beautiful installation of the long, spacious open main deck..
 
With this work completed, the construction of the topside planking and rails could begin.
 
 
Ed
 

Attaching rudder
 
Thank you Nils and Bob. ;-)
 
Four set of pintle and gudgeon braces were fixed on the rudder and stern post with brass nail. The nail heads were blackened after hammering. I think this work seems one of the hardest part to get neat result.
 
Cheers,
Lee

At first glance, the pump brake is an imposing structure with its multiple right angles.  Add to that the need to make the port and starboard brakes look alike. The axletree is made from five segments of 1.5" brass wire.  The vertical connectors are fabricated from 3" square brass rod which has been drilled to accept the axletree segments and shaped with files.  The various pieces were silver soldered together except where the long segment inserts into its fore connecting rod. This allows for fine adjustments in length during the final installation.  Don't forget to insert the wheel!
 

 

 
I am lucky enough to have Admiralty Models' PE set for the Swan class and this includes the wheel components and links of chain.  This is assembled like a bicycle chain, alternating double and single links.  Brass wire was inserted through the holes and the ends peened to secure it.  The picture also shows other components of the PE sheet.  After blackening, the chain look great in person but terrible on camera so I only am showing a top view to demonstrate the linking process.  
 

 

 
As a next step, everything is temporarily assembled to check for gross mistakes.
 

 

 
 
 
 
 

I agree: Taking time to plan and draw the planking layout and shift of butts is never a waste of time! It will save grief later on.

Perhaps it's interesting for you. Here's the link to the company which produces these cardbord and some nice paper kits:
 
http://www.model-shipyard.com/html/indexuk.html

It seems we, at MSW, are surrounded by masters ... master modeller Dan Pariser master redo-er Vadas, master restart-a-new Taylor, and now we have master fixer Dale, and we should not forget our building instruction masters Chuck and EdT, and the master of the large builds Bordeleau, and his oposite the mini master Igor. It's a wounderful site where each build log gives one masterful insights and knowledge ... I just love it.
 
Grant ... masterful workmanship!!! You may point out those near visible joins to me in that last picture ... I for one can't see them ... maybe I should get some surgery done on my eyes (like Brian/Probablynot wants to) for I must be getting blind real fast!!!

Really nice planking job

Perhaps it's interesting for you. Here's the link to the company which produces these cardbord and some nice paper kits:
 
http://www.model-shipyard.com/html/indexuk.html

I see that Ed's book on Young America is launched. Hearty congratulations!

Here are some more pics...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Clare

I've finished the "Disposition of Frames" drawing.
 

 
I am not quite happy with the position of the timberheads between station line 17 and 19. But this is the position I got from the As Built plan of the Fly.
 
Next I will built my building board and start with the model.

@Ed
 
Thank you. I use also the waterlines of the half breath plan. I am sure that's a lot more work to draw this manually because it was more than enough work with my CAD.
 
 
You're right. But it made a lot of fun to do this exercise.
Also I had some points I want to check with the drawing. On the Half Breath Plan were only the positions and angles of every second cant frame given. I wanted to check the reconstrction of the other cants. What's with the position of the gun ports? WHich cant frames do I have to shift? Is every timberhead given in the Sheer and Profile drawing on top of a frame?
 
If I compared the position of the timberheads given in the Sheer and Profile of Fly and in the DOF plan of Cygnet, I found some alterations, for example at the fore cants. I wanted to check the consequences for the frame design.
 
@druxey
I've checked the position of all timberheads of the Sheer and Profile drawing and my reconstruction again. At the after cant frames I found two timberheads whose position do not really match with my cants. The position of the other four timberheads is ok.
So I think to change my design will not solve the problem.
What do you think is the better solution? To move the timberhead or to add a timber between the frames and not to change the position.
 
@all
Thanks for your interest and hints, which I really appreciate.

Today it rained all day, so I had enough time to finish the design of the cant frames





The Bollard Timbers and Hawse Pieces are missing to complete the planning of  framework.
The individual components and the frames I'll draw later during the build.

Next, the construction of the two-stage slipway is on the ToDo list, then I can lay down the keel for the model.

In the moment I am working on a corrected disposition of frames drawing for my sloop
The basis are
 
DOF of Cygnet (ZAZ4691) Dimensions given in "The Ship Builders Repository", 1788 (1) Dimensions given in Steel "The Element and Practice of Naval Architecture", 1805 (1) Antscherl TFFM, Volume 1  
(1) The dimensions I took from Allan Yedlinsky "Scantlings of Royal Navy Ships 1719-1805". The original books are unfortunately to expansive for my hobby budget.
 
The different timbers for the keel and the knee of the head, I took from David's book. I only adapt these to the other proportions.
 
After a lot of measurements in the DOF of Cygnet and comparing with the given dimensions, I decided to follow Steel. I am really surprised how well the frames fit to the original drawing. If you compare the numbers of the sweep ports with the original drawing, yo see that there is one port missing, because it was not shown on the As built drawing.
 

 
In the moment I am drawing the cant frames, which is much easier as by my second project.

Welcome on bord, Antony
 
The completion of the hull of my control model in the region behind the last frames has attracted much longer than expected.
When planning the last phase of the construction I realized that the body plan of the original drawing and therefore my reconstruction at the top of the last two frames is too narrow. So back to the drawing board and the frames 19 and 20 newly constructed. The hull at frames 20 is now about 1 mm wider in the region of maximum breath than originally. With the help of several buttok lines and the new water lines I have also redesigned the transoms

I haven't add all changes on the test hull, so you can see in the pictures the not entirely harmonious course of the lines.





The first step of my little project -the reconstruction of the lines- is complete.
In between, I have asked myself several times whether the construction of the half-model was even necessary. After the problems in the reconstruction of the transoms and fashion pieces, that define the shape of the stern, have identified, the construction of the test model was more than worth. I am happy to have the mistakes now and not found during the construction of the POF model.

In the next few weeks I'll construct keel, frames and all other components that are needed to build the hull. In autumn I like to start the construction of the POF model. Until then, one last picture which shows the side view of the test hull.
 

This is the current stand of my reconstruction. As you see on the pictures I've need some putty after sanding. This has two reasons.
I've sanded to much on frame 20 The lines for the transoms have some smaller mistakes. During the last month I've redrwan the transoms. Also I've corrected a small mistake of the maximum breath in this area. In the moment I add the counter timbers to my drawing and complete the half model to check the revised design.

The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
 

 

 

 
 

Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
 
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
 

 
Then my favourite pastime - sanding
 

 

Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
 

 

 

 
To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.
 

 

 

 

 

With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.

The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.
 

First half of frame 0
 
Six frames have been installed.
 

 
At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.


 
Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible
 

 

To check the lines I started to build a half model. For the frames I use 3mm birch plywood, it's for a model in 1/32 perhaps a little small, but I've had a bigger batch at home. All space between the frames I fill with poplar plywood. It's easy to shape but stable enough for the purpose.
I glue the drawngs with rubber cement on the ply woord


 
With a sharp knife I mark every 5' line. The picture shows frame 0:
 

 
All bulkheades and the center are cutted out. The hull has a length of around 1m, which is not as big compared with the new 1/200 model kits of the WWII battle ships.
 

 

Part 1 Reconstruction of the hull lines
 
David Antscherl wrote in his wonderful series about th Swan Class Sloop, that there are a lot of smaller differences between the ships of the class, for example the knee of the head of Fly.
As first decision for my new start I decided not to use the general lines, which David has published. I want to do my own reconstruction. The naval cutter was a first exercise for this project. In January I started with the reconstruction. At the end of February I had a first version of my body plan, which matchs the lines of the historical drawing very well.
 

 

Docmuents (I will update the list during my build):

NMM drawings:
ZAZ4667: Line & inboard profile, decoration of 'Fly' ZAZ4669: Lower & Platform Decks of 'Fly' ZAZ4670: Quarter and Upper deck plan of 'Fly ZAZ4691: Disposition of Frames of 'Cygnet' Books:
David Antscherl, "The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780", Volume 1 - 4 David Antscherl, "Swan class sheer and profile, scale 1:48", corrected frames Allan Yedlinsky: Scantlings of Royal Navy ships David White: Understanding ship draughts David Antscherl: Understanding Eighten-Century Admirality drafts

The Swan Class Sloop and I have as some of you know a longer history. Two years ago I started my build log for the build in 1/48. A few month later I had to stop the build because I got some problems with my eyes. At the beginning of this year I started again. I decided to change the scale of my build to 1/32.
I hope that some of you are intersted in my build and like to follow my log.

So let's start again
 

Copper plate & bolting on the keel
 
Thank you friends as always. ;-)
 
Horse shoe and fish tail copper plates were attached on the both sides of the keel. Brass wire was used to fix them on the keel. After finishing bolting work, keel, frame and outside planking strakes were oiled with the mixture of linseed oil and turpentine oil.
 
Cheers,
 
Lee