AnobiumPunctatum

Hello,
 
the great cabin is ready! That was a lot of interesting work. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The next thing to install are the knees, but first without the beams. 
 
And if anyone knows more about the storing of the gunnery equipment, your knowledge is welcome. For more details please see my last posting.
 
Regards,
Siggi

Thanks Druxey, I sure did. I managed to drill the holes with a Pin Vise without "re-arranging" any rigging .
 
Fitting Swivel Guns
 
I've also fitted the Swivel Guns that I'd made earlier. They are only going on the port side. All the guns can be moved in any direction. Once again, I had to redrill the holes in the posts from 0.8mm to 1mm to accept the mounting legs :
 

 

 

 

 
 Danny

Thanks for the kind comments Robin, George, Mark, David, Albert, Carl, Ronnie and Marc. As always they are much appreciated .
 
Fitting Hammock Cranes
 
I managed to drill the holes for the hammock crane mounting "bolts" without going completely insane, but it was a near thing . It would have been MUCH easier if I'd done this a lot earlier in the build. The couple hiding amongst the shrouds were fun (not).
 
I've fitted the passing ropes too. I chose to use a simple knot at each end :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 Danny

Thank You...
 
In preparation for planking the deck,  I added the waterway/margin planks.   For my purposes here I talk about them as two separate pieces.  First the wider margin plank was created with scarf joints next to the bulwarks.  I used card stock to make templates first.  There are three lengths as shown below.  This required a lot of tweaking until I got it right. Then the templates were traced onto a 1/16" thick sheet of boxwood and cut out.  The deck planking will be 1/16" thick.   
 

 
I spent a lot of time carefully shaping the scarf joints with a #11 blade and some needle files until they were a nice clean and tight fit.  Then they were glued onto the deck area.  The back edge needed to be beveled so I could get a tight fit against the bulwarks in many areas.  Particularly at the bow.  A pencil darkened the seam of scarf joint just like the hull planking.  Eventually the deck planking will be nibbed into these margin planks.   
 

 

 

 
When finished, I added the waterway on top of the margin plank.  It was a 1/32" strip that was slowly sanded to become a 1/4 round.  I basically sanded off one corner edge and rounded it off.  It was glued on top and the seams between the pieces were carefully lined up with the scarf joints.  So again three lengths were used.  This way they look like they were done as one piece.   These thin strips also needed to be beveled to fit tight against the bulwarks.  The bulwarks are unfortunately not at a nice 90 degree angle to the deck so the bevel was an absolute necessity. 
 

 

 
Now its time to start building the hatches, coamings and gratings and skylight.   Then I can plank the deck around them.  I cant wait until thats done,.  After this step its just about the small details...and that is a lot of fun.
 
Chuck

Thank you guys.
 
Just a real quick update.   Not to much except I did drill the hawse holes and the hole for the bowsprit.  As simple as this procedure may sound it is actually rather tricky.  I had to be really careful to drill these parallel to the keel and straight back.  There is always a tendency to just drill through straight in.  But instead,  the bit must be held so it enters the bulwarks parallel to the keel.  I started with a small hole so if the angle was wrong it could be corrected.  Then I switched to needle files and then an even bigger round file to finish it off.  
 
The angle is super important because the hole for the bowsprit must be drilled the same way.  Straigh back and parallel to the centerline.   If the hawse holes were drilled at an "off" angle then there wouldnt be room to properly create the hole for the bowsprit.  I used a graphite pencil to darken the hawse holes but I may go back and use a dull flat dark gray instead,   No rush to decide.
 
Now I can move on and start creating the waterway in preparation for the deck planking.
 
Chuck
 

 

 

Thank you all for your kind words and likes.
 
Work is progressing and more knees, hanging knees, carlings and ledges are added. 
 
I also forgot to install a pillar in front of the fore mast , but that was taken care of.
 

 

 
The last opportunity to take a look at the sail room before its permanently installed in the hull
 

 
Some of the knees with mortices cut
 

 
The state of the upper deck to date
 

 

 

 
 
The next weeks will be more of the same... with the addition of installing hammock battens as I work my way across the deck
 
Remco
 
 
 

....... continued.
 
The standing end of the Fore Course Sheet is seized to an eyebolt below the aft fixed block, through the sheet block, through the fixed block, and belays to the aft cleat in the bulwark :
 

 
The standing end of the Main Course Sheet is seized to an eyebolt below the fixed block on the quarterdeck planksheer, through the sheet block, through the fixed block, and belays to a timberhead forward of the block :
 

 
The sheets for the topsails start with a crown knot through the strop in the clue block, through the sheet block on the outboard end of the lower yard, inboard to the sheet block near the centre of the yard, and belays to the fore topsail sheet bitts (fore), main topsail sheet bitts (main) and to an eyebolt at the foot of the mizzen mast (mizzen) :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The Spritsail clues and sheets are rigged in similar fashion, both belaying to cleats in the bow :
 

 
I won't be adding any more rigging such as Buntlines, Leechlines, or any of the Staysail rigging as no sails are going on this model.
 
 Danny

Welcome on board, Daniel. The work on the llines is finished. In the moment I work on the disposition of frames drawing.
It's very interesting to compare the Cygnet drawing with the Shipbuilders Repository and Steel to get the thickness of the different timbers. And the to compare this with David's results.

Hi Karl,
 
I remember your model. I was very impressed by your build, as I've seen it the first time. And there's nothing changed. I am very impressed.
 
Just beautyful. Thanks for sharing

More planking over the last few weeks. One more strake on each side and I can go to work on the transom.  
I made a jig that fits over the plywood spine so when she's upside down for planking, the fashion pieces wont get broken since they stick up a bunch.  It can be held in the vise or propped up on a block of scrap wood (as shown here on pic. #3).  My spiling is getting better.  Sure it uses a bit more wood, but careful planning gets several similar pieces cut from one strip with only modest waste.  I've also given up on soaking or steaming the planks.  Pieces this thin (.0475") need bending only with a very hot blow dryer and some gentle pressure.  No more shrinkage when dried and no more raised grain nor water staining.
Maury

Thank you George and John, much appreciated.
 
 
George - here are a couple more pics of the Fish Davit which might make it's fitting a bit clearer :
 

 
The inner end goes through the Spanshackle Ring :
 

 
I had to shorten the fish davit considerably from the length shown in TFFM, as it would have finished way too far outboard (it's probably still a bit too long). TFFM's fish davit is on HMS Resolution and fits forward of the foremast and is a rather different setup.
 
The last thing to fit on both anchors is the rope seized to the Shankpainter Chain, which was fitted at the time the Channels went on. The rope is 0.45mm in diameter and was too large to fit through the chain link, so I made a small ring to which I seized the rope :
 

 
The port side anchor is shown as Stowed. The shankpainter chain loops around the shank of the anchor and belays to the timberhead forward of the fish davit block :
 

 

 
The stock is belayed to the cathead. I had to "be my own captain" when stowing the anchors - feel free to tell me I've got it wrong, but they don't fit any other way :
 

 
Some more pics of the port anchor :
 

 

 

 
 Danny

Really wonderful, Anthony

The planking is looking really nice, Johann

Part 1 Reconstruction of the hull lines
 
David Antscherl wrote in his wonderful series about th Swan Class Sloop, that there are a lot of smaller differences between the ships of the class, for example the knee of the head of Fly.
As first decision for my new start I decided not to use the general lines, which David has published. I want to do my own reconstruction. The naval cutter was a first exercise for this project. In January I started with the reconstruction. At the end of February I had a first version of my body plan, which matchs the lines of the historical drawing very well.
 

 

Docmuents (I will update the list during my build):

NMM drawings:
ZAZ4667: Line & inboard profile, decoration of 'Fly' ZAZ4669: Lower & Platform Decks of 'Fly' ZAZ4670: Quarter and Upper deck plan of 'Fly ZAZ4691: Disposition of Frames of 'Cygnet' Books:
David Antscherl, "The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780", Volume 1 - 4 David Antscherl, "Swan class sheer and profile, scale 1:48", corrected frames Allan Yedlinsky: Scantlings of Royal Navy ships David White: Understanding ship draughts David Antscherl: Understanding Eighten-Century Admirality drafts

Welcome on bord, Antony
 
The completion of the hull of my control model in the region behind the last frames has attracted much longer than expected.
When planning the last phase of the construction I realized that the body plan of the original drawing and therefore my reconstruction at the top of the last two frames is too narrow. So back to the drawing board and the frames 19 and 20 newly constructed. The hull at frames 20 is now about 1 mm wider in the region of maximum breath than originally. With the help of several buttok lines and the new water lines I have also redesigned the transoms

I haven't add all changes on the test hull, so you can see in the pictures the not entirely harmonious course of the lines.





The first step of my little project -the reconstruction of the lines- is complete.
In between, I have asked myself several times whether the construction of the half-model was even necessary. After the problems in the reconstruction of the transoms and fashion pieces, that define the shape of the stern, have identified, the construction of the test model was more than worth. I am happy to have the mistakes now and not found during the construction of the POF model.

In the next few weeks I'll construct keel, frames and all other components that are needed to build the hull. In autumn I like to start the construction of the POF model. Until then, one last picture which shows the side view of the test hull.
 

This is the current stand of my reconstruction. As you see on the pictures I've need some putty after sanding. This has two reasons.
I've sanded to much on frame 20 The lines for the transoms have some smaller mistakes. During the last month I've redrwan the transoms. Also I've corrected a small mistake of the maximum breath in this area. In the moment I add the counter timbers to my drawing and complete the half model to check the revised design.

The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
 

 

 

 
 

Thanks Johann, druxey, Mike and Nils for your nice comments and all others for the Likes
 
Next I've installed all bulkheads until frame 20 and the filling pieces.
 

 
Then my favourite pastime - sanding
 

 

With the build of my control model I started at the end of March.

The edges of all frames I've colored black. This will be later a great help by sandig the hull.
The glued surface of the cant frames is very small, so I've glued first plywood stripes on the center board.
To get the correct alignment the colored 5' marks on the frames and the center board are a great help.
 

First half of frame 0
 
Six frames have been installed.
 

 
At this time I've started to glue the filling pieces of polar plywood between the frames. I've used a chess board pattern to avoid the distortion of the frames.


 
Until the mid of April I've installed all frames and filling pieces from the center to the stem on the stem.
The next two pictures show the result of the work. It's looking very horrible
 

 

Then I've started sanding the hull. I've used 60 grid until 120 grid sandpaper for the process. After around one week - I can only work on my model in the evening or at the weekends- I've finished the front half of my control model.
I am very happy with the result
 

 

 

 
To check the curves I use 1mm thick stripes of maple. The found differences are very small. So I think that my reconstruction will work for the checked range.
 

 

 

 

 

Part 1 Reconstruction of the hull lines
 
David Antscherl wrote in his wonderful series about th Swan Class Sloop, that there are a lot of smaller differences between the ships of the class, for example the knee of the head of Fly.
As first decision for my new start I decided not to use the general lines, which David has published. I want to do my own reconstruction. The naval cutter was a first exercise for this project. In January I started with the reconstruction. At the end of February I had a first version of my body plan, which matchs the lines of the historical drawing very well.
 

 

I've completed the starboard side topside planking. Same as the port side, but it went a little faster (the old learning curve  ). Now it's on to the stern planking.
 
Bob
 
 

Hi.
Well its the end of this build and its been a nice steady build.
Started in September 2013. with a couple of breaks IE summer holidays. Daughters wedding.
 
A few photos are in order..
 

 
The Enclosure is made from Fire resting poly-carbonate, as its Health and Safety thing.
Top .bottom and back are 12mm plywood.
 

 
There is also a Mirror at the back of the model..Gives it more depth. Doctor Who cheat.
 

 
The Red button is a press to make switch. and holds the power on for 30 seconds.
Lights that are in the Hold and Orlop deck flicker like oil lamps.
 

 
The two Dolphins are carved from Boxwood (not by me) . Local shop sells then cheap.
 

 

 

 
I did not put gravel into the hold in order to keep the weight down.
 

 

 
The drawings are bits that I had lying around.. They cover the plywood nicely.
 

 

 
The tape measure is showing the physical size of the enclosure
 

 
I really appreciate the help and encouragement you people have given me throughout this build.
I would also like to thank my friend Roy for supplying my with the timber for the build.
 
And of course the person who keeps everything running in the house while I have my head buried in the model. Marian.
 
And all the likes... There are soooooo many.
Any questions.. Please ask.
 
Regards Antony.
 
 
 

Michel,thank you .
 
Continuation.
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul