AnobiumPunctatum

Docmuents (I will update the list during my build):

NMM drawings:
ZAZ4667: Line & inboard profile, decoration of 'Fly' ZAZ4669: Lower & Platform Decks of 'Fly' ZAZ4670: Quarter and Upper deck plan of 'Fly ZAZ4691: Disposition of Frames of 'Cygnet' Books:
David Antscherl, "The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780", Volume 1 - 4 David Antscherl, "Swan class sheer and profile, scale 1:48", corrected frames Allan Yedlinsky: Scantlings of Royal Navy ships David White: Understanding ship draughts David Antscherl: Understanding Eighten-Century Admirality drafts

Part 1 Reconstruction of the hull lines
 
David Antscherl wrote in his wonderful series about th Swan Class Sloop, that there are a lot of smaller differences between the ships of the class, for example the knee of the head of Fly.
As first decision for my new start I decided not to use the general lines, which David has published. I want to do my own reconstruction. The naval cutter was a first exercise for this project. In January I started with the reconstruction. At the end of February I had a first version of my body plan, which matchs the lines of the historical drawing very well.
 

 

To check the lines I started to build a half model. For the frames I use 3mm birch plywood, it's for a model in 1/32 perhaps a little small, but I've had a bigger batch at home. All space between the frames I fill with poplar plywood. It's easy to shape but stable enough for the purpose.
I glue the drawngs with rubber cement on the ply woord


 
With a sharp knife I mark every 5' line. The picture shows frame 0:
 

 
All bulkheades and the center are cutted out. The hull has a length of around 1m, which is not as big compared with the new 1/200 model kits of the WWII battle ships.
 

 

The Swan Class Sloop and I have as some of you know a longer history. Two years ago I started my build log for the build in 1/48. A few month later I had to stop the build because I got some problems with my eyes. At the beginning of this year I started again. I decided to change the scale of my build to 1/32.
I hope that some of you are intersted in my build and like to follow my log.

So let's start again
 

To check the lines I started to build a half model. For the frames I use 3mm birch plywood, it's for a model in 1/32 perhaps a little small, but I've had a bigger batch at home. All space between the frames I fill with poplar plywood. It's easy to shape but stable enough for the purpose.
I glue the drawngs with rubber cement on the ply woord


 
With a sharp knife I mark every 5' line. The picture shows frame 0:
 

 
All bulkheades and the center are cutted out. The hull has a length of around 1m, which is not as big compared with the new 1/200 model kits of the WWII battle ships.
 

 

Moin Karl,
 
I wish you luck with your new project and will follow your build with great interest. Are the new frameing set of Ancre the money worth?

Very interesting construction method.
If you paint the outside of the frames black before you glue in the filler pieces, you will have a very good reference line for shapeing the hull.

Paul, it's allways a pleasure to follow your log.

Continuation.
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Michel, thank you
 
 
 
Continuation.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Paul

Young America 1853 – POB 1:96
Part 5 – Mast Steps
 
As bulkheads and spacers are added, it is necessary to make provision for supporting the lower ends of the masts.  On the framed model these steps are fully detailed and visible through the view ports, but on this version they need only be simple, functional and strong.  The first picture shows the step of the main mast just aft of bulkhead 12 – looking forward.
 

 
The brass pin will fit a hole in the bottom of the mast.  The bulkhead has been cut out to provide clearance for the mast.  A reinforcing spacer can just be seen through the opening.  For strength, the plywood bulkheads on either side of each mast are  sandwiched between such reinforcements.  The next picture shows the reinforcing spacer glued to the plywood bulkhead aft of the foremast.
 

 
The step of the mizzen mast is shown below before being installed.
 

 
The holes for the brass pins need to be precisely located, hence the dividers.  The drawings show these locations at the height of the spacer blocks.  The pins are slightly raked – roughly matching the mast rake.
 
The next picture shows the bulkhead forward of the one above, with the reinforcing spacer in place.
 

 
The next picture shows the hull framing well advanced.  The squares clamped to the shipway are important.  They keep the hull plumbed to prevent twisting as new bulkheads are added.
 

 
The last picture shows the hull framed back to bulkhead 42.  At the ends, the central spine needs to be built up with additional tiers to form the deadwood as the hull narrows.
 

 
Also, in this picture, additional spacers have been inserted inside the outer ones to maintain a solid hull surface where the lines converge sharply at the stern.
 
The complex rounded stern will be constructed in the next part.
 
Ed

Robin, you could have questions!
 
First to say, I really don't know anything. But from the standpoint of a carpenter I would say the paneling is build on the normal planking in a lighter wood, may be pine or spruce. The bulwarks would be build like doors in a frame. For the paneling you need only half of that and that was nailed on the planking. The planking may differ here from normal, that only the lower spirketting and the upper deck clamp have there normal with. The planking between would be 2 cm thinner for the paneling.
 
I think that in this case the paneling is build and not painted, because at the models they look the same as in the bulwarks. As an example here a picture of the Egmont. To the left you have the aft screen and in the right background you see the same design on the wall.
 

 
I hope I could help you with this.
Regards,
Siggi
 
 
 
 

Another model of it's own on your ship  model. Really wonderful lantern

Thanks very much Greg, John, Nils, Jan, George, Russell and Pat .
 
 
Jan - it's 28mm tall.
 
 
Russell - Because I could . I don't doubt the PE one would be accurate though.
 
 
Vulture only needs the one.
 
Here's the finished job. I've just now given it a coat of Minwax which hasn't dried yet :
 

 

 

 
 
 
 Danny

And thank you George and Jack .
 
The Main Braces start at an eyebolt above the quarterlight. The halyard then reeves through the pendant on the yard, back through the fixed block near the taffrail, and belays to the aftmost timberhead :
 

 

 
 Danny

Hello again,
 
and first, many thanks for your kind words about my work. 
 
Today I started with the paneling of the side wall. And here I have a question for the experts or all who know something about this. The hanging knees from the poop deck.
 
Goodwin says: „Unlike other decks, only every other beam was supported with a knee on this deck, and these were placed where they would be most beneficial.“ Whatever that means?
 
From the NMM I got this picture of the Berwick from 1775
 

 
And here my ship. For these beams I would build the hanging knees. Counting from behind, under the second beam would be the aft screen, then the 4th, and 6th. At the 8th is the bulwark, but I could build here also one and then at the 9th and 11th beam. Otherwise on later ships, here are no cannons at the poop deck, so the knees support only the deck.
 

 
Many thanks in advance,
Siggi

Thanks Greg.
 
.... continued.
 
Here's a pic of the progress. The base has been fitted to the munions :
 

 
The Stool was a challenge :
 

 

 
There are several rims between the pieces. I glued each piece to some 0.5mm thick stock and sanded the edges to shape when it dried. This was then rounded with a sanding stick :
 

 
The centre munions were fitted next. There is still some sanding to be done to get the verticals down to size in this pic. The "glass" (acrylic) has been fitted :
 

 
I filed the Crank from brass strip and soldered a mounting pin on :
 

 
Nearly finished. I'll sand the edges of the verticals down to size tomorrow when the glue is completly dry :
 

 
The Vent :
 

 
Detail of the base and stool :
 

 
With the crank fitted :
 

 
 
 Danny

Upper deck planking
 
Many thanks all friends for warm words.

Thank you for all the likes, and thank you, Frank, for the question.
 
Once the threaded stud bolts are screwed into the hull - into the spine in this case because the keel assembly has not yet been installed on this model - the model is secured from under the base with nuts.  Without lateral support the hull is vulnerable to damage from side thrusts - especially after the keel is installed.  During hull construction, I normally support the sides with the squares clamped on either side of the shipway to prevent the hull rocking side-to-side.  Later, when permanently mounting the model some other form of permanent lateral support will be built into the base.  These will be lower on the hull but also designed to prevent rocking.  Supports may also be fitted before rigging.
 
Below is a picture of Naiad on her permanent base showing the supports used in this case.  the support is very solid.
 
Ed
 
 

more photos 
 

 

 

 

Slow progress.  More planking.  I'm not happy with my progress with edge bending, so I'm back to spiling...and getting better at it.  After they are all in, I'll smooth them a bit (Particularly at the drop plank, which was thicker).  Five more strakes in the upper band.
Maury

Thank you Druxey
The new approach I've taken has also made quite an impact
 
Christian, the first go around was with SolidWorks.  This time I am using AutoDesk Inventor.  The programs are similar but different enough to give my brain a workout.

Started gluing parts together today
 
The remnants of the rubber cement were removed by simply erasing the surface….

 
… and there were paper thin feathered edges from my sander that need to removed by lightly sanded by hand.

 
First piece glued was the Stern Post to the Inner Post.
Here are the before and after cleaning pics.
I did drill and pin them to assist in alignment.  You can see the ball head of the straight pins.
The pencil lines are to help me with shaping later on.


 
The stern deadwood was assembled piece by piece, clamping up and letting them set before attaching the next piece.  This is where my marble pastry rolling slab came in handy.  I set the assembly down onto the slab to assure the surfaces were flush when assembled.

 
I did insert two pieces of copper wire into the stern post assembly to assist in keeping it together. Not sure it was necessary nor that the Gorilla Glue got in deep enough.  I tried working the wire in and out but I did not see any glue at the far end.  I had to strip the insulation of the telephone wire and then roll the copper wire straight.  22 gauge wire is quite flimsy stuff and easily bent.

 
I cut the mortise and tennon joint in the Stern Post and Keel then assembled them.  Clamping up the tapered stern post to the proper angle was a bit of a challenge.  I ended up using a few different tools and good old fashion clothes pins.



 
 
The Stem to Keel boxing joint was eventually glued up and set properly.  I did attempt to use the black tissue paper as you can see by the staining on the wood but had no success.  I determined it was more trouble than it was worth.  I first soaked the paper in a 50/50 water glue mix and after numerous tries place it on the joint surfaces.  Quite a few pieces tore apart in my fingers/tweezers. When I finally got around to attempting to put the keel and stem together the paper scrunched up on me.  I took it apart and tried again with new pieces… then had more of the same trouble.  After two more attempts I said to myself “screw it”.

 
I also glued up the remaining sections of the keel; clamping them to the marble pastry slab and setting them against a straight edge…. sans tissue paper.

Hi everyone!
 
I have an interest in King Karl IX, Gustav II Adolfs father. Before reaching the crown he was a duke and was successful in developing his duches and he created his own fleet. And when he later went to war with Sigismund his fleet became an important part. When he later became king his fleet became part of the swedish fleet. As many men of power at that time in history, Karls seems to have been quite cruel but he did manage to reach remarkable goals in his life and laid the base of what Gustav II Adolf managed to achieve later on. For a while I'v been wanting to make a model of one of Karls ships. When going through the ship lists available I decided to go for the small ship called Gripen (griffin). Gripen was Karls symbol and is to be seen on Vasa stern as well when two griffins puts the crown on Gustav II Adolfs head. Making a model of Gripen will mean a lot of guesses on my behalf as very little is known. 
 
I like to build by eye and even if I made some basic plans and drawings, I will try to relax and do what feels right as I move the build along.
 
The design is inspired by the beautyful replica of Duyfken and by paintings by Vroom and other dutch artists. I would like to thank all who helped me with advices and opinions in this thread: 
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/9996-ships-of-the-late-16th-century/
 
In that thread you can also follow the steps I did when designing the model.
 
When I finished the Vasa build I had a pile of spareparts left. When looking at the parts I felt I'd like to try and reshape them into something else. I feel this gives me lots of freedom when building it as I can do whatever I feel like and that helps creativity. Worst thing that can happen is that I mess upp and then I can just through it in the bin. 
 
Step 1 was to design the model. As said that step is covered in the thread mentioned above.
 

 

 
 
Step 2 was to decide what size it would be in. I printed the drawings in different sizes and then decided. The scale is close to 1:70.
 
Step 3 was to make a more detailed plan just to get the basic set up of the frames and how to reshape them to the lines of my drawings.
 

 
Step 4  Was to do the actual reshaping. First before assembly, then reshaping again. The supporting parts are ugly but I liked the idea to just use the left over parts after sawing the frames. Ugly but easy to do and they will be covered later on. I needed the supporting bits to be stronger compaired to say how BB designed theis Vasa kit, as I had to reshape them in place.
 

 

 
Next step will be to make the stern, bow and decks.
 
 
/Matti

Making my way through the tedious, but necessary, early steps. I first rough faired the hull using various sanding sticks. Then I added the gunport framing, trying to be careful to maintain a smooth flowing line. Next, I cut the forward most ports in the filler pieces at the bow and faired the gun ports. Lastly, I "finished" fairing the hull. I expect to need some minor adjustments when I begin the hull planking.
 
Next up will be the stern framing.
 
Bob