AnobiumPunctatum

Very impressive presentation, Albert

Just a quick update.  The carlings have been cut to accept the ledges.  I have started making the inner belt of ledges.  The outer belt will not be make until the knees have been installed.
 

I've been working on the final fairing of the lower counter. It was determined that the vertical filler piece was not close enough to the rabbet strip, so a thin strip was added to the aft edge of the filler piece. The first horizontal filler block had a score where the "B" frame was located. I removed the block and shaved the bottom edge of the "B" frame down, level with the other frames. The new block now sits neatly across the frames. I left one side not yet faired to show how much wood was removed to fair this area. The transition between the two filler pieces becomes clear as more and more wood is removed. A batten strip was used in various locations to make sure that enough wood was removed.

Mike

Hi some more photos.

Hi some photos of the base of the model under construction.

I know...but it must sadly wait until the longboat is finished.  I tink its important to get a new group project going and so I am going to get that done first.  Luckily the longboat is a very quick little project.
 
 

Really nice progress, Chuck
and a lot of hints which I also can use for my bargue

Really nice progress, Chuck
and a lot of hints which I also can use for my bargue

Really nice progress, Chuck
and a lot of hints which I also can use for my bargue

Really nice progress, Chuck
and a lot of hints which I also can use for my bargue

Really nice progress, Chuck
and a lot of hints which I also can use for my bargue

Really nice progress, Chuck
and a lot of hints which I also can use for my bargue

Now as I mentioned, this project will have pre-spiled planks.  There will be no reason for anyone to line off the hull and spile the planks themselves.  But I still need to do it.  So if anyone is interested I will post that process here with some photos.  Even though this is just a small longboat vs a large frigate, the hull must be lined off for planking and I must create a plan to follow before I cut any wood for planking.  The method described below is the same thing I did for Cheerful and it will be the same thing I do for the Winchelsea.  The one difference however, is there will not be a need to split this hull into two or three belts of planking.  Its size dictates that the entire hull will be treated as just one belt of planking.  
 
Step one is the easy part,  after doing some research to determine the correct width for your planking you must decide how many strakes will fit at mid ship (dead flat).  This will be different depending on the subject you are modeling but once you look at steele or whatever sources....you can make that determination.  For the longboat,  I have decided that it will have 9 strakes.  This is typical for these boats.  Some have 8.....and some have 10.  But this one will have 9 strakes.
 
Step 2....
Cut some thin tick strips from paper.  Hold them along the edge of the frames.  You will need to mark the overall length of the frame from the keel rabbet to the sheer.  Its very easy to do.
 

Step 3...Take that tick strip and lay it on top of your planking fan.  Because we know that this area will need to be split evenly into nine planks, its just a matter of sliding down the fan until it fills the space up.  Then mark the strip with tick marks.  The black horizontal lines on the planking fan were just put there so I have some reference to help me keep the strip level rather than angled.
 

Step 4 ..Take that strip back over to the same frame and transfer all those tick marks onto the frame edge.
 

All of the frames have been marked except for the htree frames at the bow and the three frames at the stern.

 
Now you shouldnt do this to every frame.  You should repeat this exercise for every frame except  for the last three aft and the first three forward frames.  Those three frames on each end of the hull are tricky.  There is a much easier and accurate way to determine the run of the planks for these areas.  Consider for example that at the bow, each remaining frame may not even contain all 9 strakes.  So measuring their length and dividing by nine doesnt work.  
 
This next step will not only allow you see the run of the planks at the bow and stern, it will also let you double check that the tick marks you just made on all of the other frames are correct.  You will soon be able to make adjustments to those as well.  This is exactly what I do on every hull before planking.
 
Step 5....Use some thin strips of black tape to visually create the run of the nine strakes.  I bought some typical black art tape that was very sticky.  Its like black masking tape.  I cut very thin strips from it about 3/64" wide.  These were used on the hull to determine the run of every strake.  I do half of the hull at a time.  First the aft side. Then from mid-ship to the bow.  Make sure there is no dust on the frames so the tape strips stick really well.   Some people prefer to use string that is glued to each frame.  Use whatever method works best for you.  I like the tape because it is easily re-positioned.
 
I used the tick marks I just made on each frame to position the thin tape strips.  I worked my way aft from mid-ship until I reached those last three frames with no tick marks on them.  Basically I "just eyeball it".  I just continue running the tape onto each frame in what I think is the natural and correct path for that plank.  DONT WORRY.....REST ASSURED THAT IT WILL BE ALL WRONG.  But after you place all of the tape for the nine strakes on the hull like this, you will be able to see where its screwed up.  You can carefully adjust each tape line until everything looks good.  Adjust and tweak until the tape runs smooth and graceful across those last three frames and right off the edge of the model.  Take your time with this.  Adjust them mid-ship as well because you will be able to see where some of your tick marks were wrong.
 
Than take a sharp pencil and mark the edge of the tape to create the reference lines on those three last frames.  Also do that for any corrected marks mid ship.
 
Aft side...
 

 
At the bow...
 

 
It is a lot harder to describe this process in writing than it is to actually do it.  This didnt take that long and spending this time makes it much more likely that your planked hull will look right.  So if you have any questions let me know.  Its much easier to show how to do this in person.  Next I will describe how I take the marks on each frame and convert them into an actual spiled plank.  Maybe this Sunday
 
 
 

Today I glued the keel onto the frames.   You want to have a cup of water and a paint brush handy before you begin.  This is used to clean the excess glue from the joints after the keel is placed on top of the frames.  Before you begin, make sure that all of the frames are facing the correct direction.  The lettered frames face one way and the numbered frames face the other way.  I also recommend tat you do a few dry test runs before using the glue.  We are basically starting with the stern half of the frames first.  Practice placing the keel into position.  You will quickly discover that all of the frames are not lined up perfectly with their intended notches in the keel.  You will need yo work them in one direction or the other until the keel slips into all ten notches. 
 
Doing a few dry test runs will let you know which frames you will need to tend to once the glue is added.  Dont rush it.  You will have plenty of time to do this and tweak each frame if need be.  I found it easier to place a generous dab of glue on the end of the frames rather than in each slot of the keel.  Once seated properly clean off the excess glue and leave it to dry.
 

Once that dries, it will be time to slide the forward ten frames under the keel and repeat the same process.  Absolutely do a dry run with this.
 

Once that glue dries, flip over the model and tape the two halves of the build board together along the joint.  DONT glue it.  Use a generous length of tape and several pieces.  I like to use the reinforced tape with the string in it for added strength.
 

Then its time to fair the hull.  Its somewhat fragile as many of you who have built the other models like this will attest.  But it is pretty sturdy.  Use either 320 or 220 grit sand paper to fair the hull.  I wouldnt use a coarser grit because it will grab the frames and possibly split them etc.  But use a light touch and proceed slowly and carefully just like you would with any other fairing.
 
Here is my model after it was completely faired.  You can use the laser char on the edge of each frame as a guide as you continue fairing as well.


I mentioned earlier how another builder familiar with this type of model gave me a building tip.  He said to use the tape on each side of the frame to help strengthen it while you fair  the hull.  I can report that it was a big help and I recommend that you guys do it as well.  In addition, because so many people have built the pinnace , the original longboat or the barge, I have had many other tips and experiences shared.  One additional tip was really good.  In the photo below you can see a small 3/32" wide by 1/32" strip glued to each frame where the attachment is.  This is usually where the frame would break if you are a heavy-handed sander.  The scrap strip was glued with tite-bond.  It really made it sturdy and I didnt worry at all about splitting the little tab connecting the center of the frame.  Once I was done fairing the hull,  they were removed using either of these two methods.  You can apply some rubbing alcohol and let it just fall off with a little coaxing.  You could also just leave it there.  There will be a plank covering it inside and out and it wont be seen.  Just keep it to 3/32" wide or less.  It wont make it any more difficult to remove the frame centers later on.  I just used this strip on the five single frames but you could do it on all of them.  But its up to you.  I faired the hull with no breakage.  
 

 
Now its time to line off the hull and start planking!!!!!  YIPPEE 
 
 

Thank you everyone for the likes.  Christian, I will not be rigging her.  I did a restoration of a four masted clipper ship last winter and that was enough tying ratlines to kill any desire to mast her.

Just beautiful, Toni. Do you rig her?

There are a lot of small projects to complete at this point.  The first project was to start the cleaning process.  After five years, the hull inevitably gets a little grimy, especially since it travels with me weekly on the back seat of my car.  I started with compressed air to remove most of the sawdust.  This was followed by moistened Q-tips and bits of paper towel held in a needle driver.  This process took about three hours and will be repeated a few more times in the upcoming months.
 
One of my punch list items was to insert the nails into the ribbands.  I had pre-drilled the holes at the time the ribbands were installed but deferred adding the nails so the blackening would not wear off.
 

 
I have put the ring on the anchor and applied the puddening.  There is a first layer of rope with four seizings on top of that.
 

 
The elm tree pumps were installed earlier but I did not make the handles as I knew they would be damaged.  Needless to lay, this picture was taken before cleaning.  A bracket was shaped to the side of the pump tube and a slot was cut for the handle.  The strap is from black paper.  
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
I shipped the rudder at this point and drilled out the aft plexiglass support to accommodate it.  I discovered that the top of the rudderhead was taller than the rudderhead cover and so this had to be remade.  I prefer the looks of this one as well.  I also installed the binnacle cabinet and secured it to the deck with two ropes.
 

 

 
 
There is netting in the waist which is secured to the stanchions for the hand rail.  This was made with tulle.  The ropes are threaded through the netting and the entire assembly is spray painted.  It was then trimmed and tied to the stanchions.  As you can see, the cannon barrels are not even.  Several of them have been jarred loose and need to be reglued.
 

 

Mix of PVA+sawdust is very stabil and hard.
 


 
 
 

just seen this 
 
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Victory-Minatures.html

Very interesting construction method.
If you paint the outside of the frames black before you glue in the filler pieces, you will have a very good reference line for shapeing the hull.

Chuck,
 
The second version of the keel looks perfect.
What kind of timber do you use for the frameing? It Looks different to the cedar of the keel?
I like allway the idea to combinate the cedar with pear or cherry for the framenig.

Chuck,
 
The second version of the keel looks perfect.
What kind of timber do you use for the frameing? It Looks different to the cedar of the keel?
I like allway the idea to combinate the cedar with pear or cherry for the framenig.

I finished the second keel assembly today.  You can see the differences.  You will note that before gluing the transom into position I added the bolts for the lap joints on the keel.  There are once again several way to do this depending on your tastes.  The bolts would have been copper but I dont like the look of shiny copper on a model.  So I am using 20lb black fishing line.  It works very well.  You could substitute 22 gauge copper wire if you wish.  The bolts are only simulated in that they dont go all the way through.   You can of course do that as well.  But rather than risk the drill bit wandering, I decided to just drill shallow holes that were filled with the black mono-filament.   Then I used a straight razon to shave the excess away flush with the surface.  I sanded it with 320 grit sandpaper.  Then applied some wipe on poly.
 
Feel free to ask any questions.
 
Next I will glue the keel onto the frames and start fairing the frames for planking.