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Schubbe

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  1. Oh my. I find myself in some kit bashing situation... Didn't expect that to happen on the first model... But here we are. I am trying to shift the windows of the transon further inward. It seems to be a good decision, because now the windows appear to lead into the ship, not past the outside wall. And now there is enough room to trim the transom to the width of the stern while leaving the top as is, to be able to use the brass decorations of the kit. Well but now I am starting to think about trying to find and buy some pieces of decoration which are a little more "3D". 🙄 "maggsl_01" - whose excellent built I followed - even dared to carve the decorations from scratch. Here is a link to his log: https://modelshipworld.com/profile/7014-maggsl_01/ I am tempted...
  2. Thanks for your tip Tim! You are absolutely right with your comment. To be able to decide what exactly is reasonable in my case, I ordered figures in the scale I am working in as a reference. I was surprised by how big they are: So they could have handled the rings I used, but probably they might be a bit too big... 😞 Fun fact: OcCre couldn't decide on the ring size themselves... 🙂
  3. If the plans were 1:1 you could of course copy them, and cut them out. If they are not you still could trace the actual deck. On your latest photo it looks as if the bulwarks are not yet applied, so that would seem possible to me.
  4. Hi Dave, I ordered a 100x1000 sheet of verneer like the one in the photo: But I only needed 100x150 or so. You can even get away with smaller pieces, but I found it convenient to be able to trace the full forecastle deck. In your case, I would probably trace the deck to a sheet of paper. Figure out how to segment the waterway, and then determine the broadest width you need to cut out the parts. I remember it was also important to take into account the grain of the wood in relation to the grain of the deck planking. If that was too cryptic let me know, and try to explain better. 😉
  5. Today I did some amendments to adress the issue of the plywood that was all too visible from above. I took some of the plywood reinforcements out. Then built a box around the channel for the rudder and painted the interior black. I think that looks way better from above.
  6. Let's see and share what we come up with window-wise... I am looking forward to see your progress on the caldercraft endeavour. The waterway thing is not too much trouble. I am a first time modeller and could pull it off. There is a (german) tutorial on the technique. It's the best I could find: https://www.modellskipper.de/Tipps/Tipps_zu_Decks_und_Beplankung/Einarbeiten_von_Fischungen You might be able to translate it with: https://www.deepl.com/translator I would like to encourage you to give the technique it a try. I happened to find it really rewarding. You'll need an extra (broader) sheet of the same verneer you use for your normal deck planking though.
  7. Hi Dave, thanks for your interest and the kind words. What a bugger with your warped parts. I am not shure, if I understand your question about the windows correctly. Do you mean if I plan to somehow give the impression that you could look through the windows? Because that is a good one. I am turning three ideas in my head. One way could be to paint a gradient to give the impression of lantern light. Something like that: Or maybe print some Image of the main cabin and glue it in? But that would probably only work if there was actual depth/room behind the windows. Or just paint it light blue or even black? What are your ideas?
  8. I have come to a decision concerning the transom. I was so focused on the AOTS, that I didn't look at the OcCre deckplan. And there was the answer. Duh! So i sanded the Stern section to follow the curve of the deck. Apart from that, I am still thinking about reducing the width of the transom to match the stern of the hull and shift the window positions further in...
  9. This is awsome! I played around with the idea of doing that pattern on my endeavour. I already gave that idea up. But now that I saw your post it comes back to live! Can you give any tips? Did you build a jig, or how did you acomplish such a good fit?
  10. Right now I am thinking about how to treat the transom. I am not so happy with the OcCre solution. For some reason I do not understand, they have decided to make the transom way too broad as you can see in this picture from the instructions: If you look at the Marquardt drawings you see something completely different: This looks way more elegant, but building it from scratch would mean to completely abandon the decorations. Maybe also the Windows. I am pretty unsure what to do. Beeing a first time modeller, I cannot imagine to carve new decorations from scratch. Or should I file down only the sides of the original transom to match the width of the stern and keep the full round overlap for the decorations? But then I still would have to shift the windows further inward. There is yet another thing bothering me. There is a gap where deck and transom meet. The deck is even rounded. Are you supposed to bend the transom? The instructions don't seem to propose that. On the Marquardt plans it actually seems as if there is a slight bend in the transom. Or should I close the gap using a woodstrip. Hmm. I really would appreciate your opinions on that one... Also: If you are preparing the transom yourself, double check if the holes are centered. I had to shift mine by about a milimetre.
  11. Today I want to speak about issues which I encountered during the build so far. As I started the log quite a bit after beginning to build, there wasn't too much process to show. On the way I had some difficulties here and there which might be of interest to all fellow Occre Endeavour builders. The first issue was that I planked the only asymmetrical deck from the wrong side so that the port hatch on the foredeck became the starboard hatch. It wasn't too difficult to repair, but still... So pay double attention to that when you are planking the decks. 😉 The second Problem was that I didn't believe the guys who said the planks might bend when glued with water based PVA glue. Of course it happaned exactly as predicted. Couldn't really get it in the photograph though. It's not a big deal, but I think I will try contact glue next time. Or maybe I might experiment with this other method somebody proposed: He said, he is applying PVA to the deck and the planks. Lets it dry and then glues both parts together using heat from a flat iron. But I do not know if this actually works. The last deck planking issue had to do with not enough forsight again. Idecided to follow Marquardt and build waterways around the decks as can be seen in the pictures below: It worked out quite well for me. Except I didn't expect the inner planking of the bulwark to be so thick. So what happened was that it partially covered the waterways. So if you are planning on doing the same, take those 2mm into account! Then I had a hard time to decide how to deal with the hole for the rudder. As I watched the instructions I saw that the rudderpole has to come through somehow. The text didn't say anything of value on how. I assume they want you to drill the hole after finishing the second planking. I found that rather risky. So I decided to cut the plywood beforehand by applying one reinforcement, then taking out the bridging part and after that glueing in the second reinforcement. You might see what I mean on this photo: So now I have a very nice "channel" through which to put the rudder pole. This way the rudder will be unmovable though, which I don't mind. I will let you know how all that worked out once I get to actually building the rudder. The question remaining is how to prevent the plywood of the reinforcements to be seen from the top. Any Ideas, guys? That's it for now. I hope that was helpful to some of you. If you have comments or even better ideas to deal with these issues, let me know.
  12. Hi DrK, I am building a different model, but to me the most useful tool was a broomstick piece with sanding paper glued around it. It worked perfekt in the stern/deadwood area. It's also quite inexpensive. And in the days of vacuum cleaners, who needs a broom... 😉
  13. First Planking is coming to an end. Now it's sanding time. I decided to actually take some time to do that. Everyday a little bit, not too much at a time... Made the boards for the hatch. Took the bigger rings by intuition. Now I am wondering if I should redo them with the intended smaller rings. What do you think? Apart from that I think that using silver soldering paste to close the rings and eyebolts before blackening them is pretty effective to make them feel in scale.
  14. Hi, I'm beginning to build the HMS Endeavour from OcCre. After preparing the bulkheads, the decks were planked. I tried the toothpick method for the trenails. Here ist my Progress so far: Fitting the decks to the framework: Meanwhile preparing the Lifeboat, which was actually quite challenging for me because I was trying to let all the planks run from stern to bow. Didn't work out perfect, but the finished thing still looks ok... Beginning of the first planking using paper strips for each bulkhead and planking fans to try and plan the tapering. Also using Chucks planking method. After a little learning curve, it worked quite well for me.
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