BANYAN

Above the water line, it's very bluff.   Further down, not very bluff at all.

Thanks Sam and Mike,
Update time...
The starboard side is "mostly" sanded and shaped.  The stern needs a tad of work and the bow needs some finicky work.  So, I'm going to turn her around and get the other side into this condition.  Then I can finish the stern and bow to get a match.   The bow has some unique shaping and I'd like to do them at the same time,  My thinking is if I do one now, and later try to do the other side, I'll wonder what the heck I did.  
 

Some further work started as I received the PE I had drawn up, which I then send off to have etched.  The sheet is .025mm thick
 
Cheek Blocks - once I have parted the the base (backing) and top piece s off, I give them a touch up with the file.  I then drill out/clean up the holes to 0.6 mm diameter, then fold down the side pieces.  I then thread the base, sheave and top piece onto some 0.6mm brass wire and place into one of the holes in the soldering jig ready for soldering.  Once silver soldered, they need to be cleaned up before blackening.




I have also completed the Bowsprit Cap, adding the upper side lugs (for the foot ropes out to the end of the Jibboom) and the horns for the manropes (lead aft to stanchions on the knight heads.  The two horns have holes through the knob for the manropes but cannot be seen in the photo. The lower side lugs are for the Bowsprit Guys/shrouds, and the bottom lugs for the martingale (forward hole) and the Bobstay.  The start of the process for making this is shown at post #528 earlier on this page.  the whole of this assembly has been silver soldered together for strength.  Solder was needed for holding the base of the pin in the drilled holes as the depth is only about 0.2 mm and CA would have marred the blackening process.


The size of these made polishing the brass very difficult, especially with such thin walls etc; so some scratch/filing marks remain.  These are very close up shots, that I have sharpened a bit which enhances the scratches; the marks cannot be seen to the naked eye from about 150mms (6 inches) away.
 
cheers
 
Pat

I am sure these 'lads' can wait for a while   Nice work on the shields and rough carving.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks Denis; appreciate you looking in and for the encouragement.  What are you working on at the moment?  I miss you fishing boats
 
cheers
 
Pat

I am sure these 'lads' can wait for a while   Nice work on the shields and rough carving.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Here are the latest shields. Top row are complete, the lower row are part done. 
And here are "the boys" so far. I've been carving them roughly to shape and when they're all done I'll go back and do the arms for each one, then smooth them off and make them all pretty.
 
Note the lack of social distancing. Also the 5 who have been cut off at the torso, because I realised I'd done the legs wrong for them to fit onto the benches. I'll have to go back and make lower bodies and legs for these guys, but not till I've got all the rest done. I thought about throwing them out and starting them again, but from the torso upward is ok.

I have to say, though, that I'm getting pretty jack of all this wood carving. I have fourteen oarsmen at various stages of completion. I need a total of 48, so I'm not yet 1/4 the way through. There's almost nothing else I can get on with - everything else has to wait on these oarsmen. Add to that I've somehow wrenched my left thumb, so it's getting painful to hold them as I carve. I think I'll take a break from all this and do some work on the Great Harry, which has been languishing unloved for quite a while.
 
Steven

Ok, this is the last update before I start making the masts. The hull is now complete.
 
First up, I fit the roof to the main superstructure. This is a single, laser-engraved piece, and I glue with CA gel because of the slight curve across the grain. This takes about 10 seconds with Gorilla Glue CA gel.

 
 
This isn't too bust a deck, but the details are very nice. Aluminium tube is supplied to make the two stacks. One of these is cut and glued back together at an angle before they are both airbrushed in satin black paint. I don't know what the other little item is, but it was fun to make! 

 
 
Whilst the pear and maple deck look great, it has a real warmth to it when a light coat of matt polyurethane varnish is applied. I do the first layer mostly with a brush, but them an airbrush is used for the final couple of light coats, especially in those areas where things are a little hard to reach, like the areas around the timberheads. I'm also careful not to get any varnish into the foremast step as this is suited to fit the mast quite tightly.


 
 
The bow also has this plate. I could've blackened it for more realism, but for the purpose of this build for the kit box art, I thought I would leave it bright as it's quite attractive. Nails are also cut down somewhat and applied into the holes I marked and drilled.

 
 
The last of the MDF core is now hidden under the superstructure as it's now finally glued into place with CA gel. I have also added the PE eyebolts to the cargo hold lids, plus other roof details such as the mast crutch. Some edges have been left in char simply for the contrast with the rest of the timber.

 
 
One thing (amongst many) that I like about this kit is the superb winch! Two laser-cut discs hold the whelps, and these are flanked with PE discs. The winch box is a PE-plated piece of MDF. The whole lot takes minutes to build. Tamiya paints were used to paint this.


 
 
The rudder is now rigged to the steering box and the wheel added. Here's the finished hull.




 
 
 
Onto masting and rigging now!

Specially designed for the processing of slender masts. The base can be angled to achieve the desired taper. The dividing head can adjust the number of Polyhedra as needed, and can also be used to planing and cutting cylinder by hand.
 

Thanks for the comments and encouragement Eberhard, Steven and John - much appreciated.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Some further work started as I received the PE I had drawn up, which I then send off to have etched.  The sheet is .025mm thick
 
Cheek Blocks - once I have parted the the base (backing) and top piece s off, I give them a touch up with the file.  I then drill out/clean up the holes to 0.6 mm diameter, then fold down the side pieces.  I then thread the base, sheave and top piece onto some 0.6mm brass wire and place into one of the holes in the soldering jig ready for soldering.  Once silver soldered, they need to be cleaned up before blackening.




I have also completed the Bowsprit Cap, adding the upper side lugs (for the foot ropes out to the end of the Jibboom) and the horns for the manropes (lead aft to stanchions on the knight heads.  The two horns have holes through the knob for the manropes but cannot be seen in the photo. The lower side lugs are for the Bowsprit Guys/shrouds, and the bottom lugs for the martingale (forward hole) and the Bobstay.  The start of the process for making this is shown at post #528 earlier on this page.  the whole of this assembly has been silver soldered together for strength.  Solder was needed for holding the base of the pin in the drilled holes as the depth is only about 0.2 mm and CA would have marred the blackening process.


The size of these made polishing the brass very difficult, especially with such thin walls etc; so some scratch/filing marks remain.  These are very close up shots, that I have sharpened a bit which enhances the scratches; the marks cannot be seen to the naked eye from about 150mms (6 inches) away.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks all for looking in and supportive comments.
 
John,  I hadn't thought on that but it is intended to service a special ash wheelbarrow (also to be made) - hence the height
 
Thanks Keith, another option was to mill them from brass round stock (the idea from your marvelous build), but as I had already invested in the after-market pipes, I thought this a better option as my accuracy for both boring out (no reamers yet) and controlling consistent wall thickness is not quite up to par yet .  I wasn't worried about using brass washers etc as I will be painting these parts; it was the overall finished effect I need to achieve.
 
Thanks Carl and BW; thanks for the reminder, I do need to do a good overhead and profile shots showing the additional details - I'll do that after fitting the air intakes etc.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi again folks,
 
I have been slowly progressing some more of the metal work.  first was the 'charlie noble' for the galley stove, which will be fitted just forward of the forward mast.  This was made from 3mm thin walled tubing, filed with a 'V' notch, folded/bent around a flexible internal former, then soldered.  A small piece of .6mm ID tube was also soldered into the top of the bent top to accept the rod for the 'sealing/weather flap',  this won't be fitted until much of the forward rigging has been completed.  It doesn't look it but the bent part is very nicely rounded; just a poor angle I took the shot. 

 
Now that I have made some decisions WRT to what 'may have' been fitted to meet the Contract's requirement ' to fit air shoots to the hold'.  As this was specified under 'Joiners' Work, I have decided the most likely solution will have been similar to "HMS Warrior" which were formed wooden trunks fitted to the bulkhead, with a bent metal air intake on the upper deck.  These will have had vents.outlets at the appropriate points for the Holds and probably fitted with a manually cranked ventilation unit, probably the one designed by Lang (ship's designer) himself based on the one invented by his father ( a copy of a sketch is held by the NMM.  This unit drew the air down and also worked as a 'splitter' with separate piping to various storerooms within the forward and after holds. 
 
These were usually fitted as pairs so I have decided to fit a pair forward and a pair aft.  I am assuming the reason I cannot see one in the photograph of the crew on the after upper deck, is that these intakes were fitted very close to the margin boards close to the bulwark, and as such will have been hidden behind the gun carriage in the photo.
 
I have used a plastic after-market part for the bent pipe, but I am making the base which will be inserted into the deck to hold the upper part.  The base has been made using brass thin wall tubing with an ID the same as the OD of the part.  To this, I have silver soldered a washer with the right ID to fit the tubing (using my resistance soldering vise) then turned the washer on the lathe to get approximately the right 'flange width and height.  The tubing was held in the vise at approximately the correct height while I soldered the washer; but the neck extension was parted while on the lathe to the correct height.  Once assembled I think they will look the part.  I used an after-market part simply for the sake of speed and because it had the right detail for the securing flap.
 
The photos show the parts, and 2 completed base parts (2 more made since), the soldering vise and  set-up, and the unit in the lathe ready to be turned.
 

 


cheers
 
Pat
 
 

Some small updates as I have been somewhat delayed/distracted rebuilding a new computer.
 
WRT to the Contract calling for 'Cranes" (see post #513), I decided to go with a gooseneck davit, as nothing more complicate would have been need.   The photo shows one in situ with a temporary ash bucket.  I will replace that with a metal one  (wood or canvas I think will have been burnt when removing ash with possible hot embers still in it).
 

 
I have also made a start on the bowsprit.  I have shaped it (and the combined jibbooms - but the latter broke ) and I now am in the process of adding fittings (heel stop etc) which is not shown, and starting on the ironwork.  The photos show the Bowsprit Cap in two stages of its manufacture.  I used a jig (two dowels appropriately spaced in some scrap wood to hold the brass tube while I soldered them together and added the sides, then filed them.   The first photo sows the assembly after it has been parted off with a dental cutting (separation) disk  (much stronger and better than the standard Dremel disks)). 
 
I have soldered on the base lug with two hole for the Bobstay (after hole) and for the martingale (forward hoe), and two of the side lugs for guys etc.  Two more lugs to be added, plus two 'horns' at the top for the man ropes.  The side lugs are copper wire which I am filing flat after soldering to give the impression of flat forged lugs.  Very fiddly at this scale but getting there without blowing the lot apart as I solder the lugs into drilled holes (fingers crossed  and touching wood as I say that).  I still need to work out how I will add the Jackstaff bracket; then a LOT of cleaning up before blackening.
 
The form and structure of the Cap is based on drawings by Underhill.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

 

Hi Keith, a very interesting question.  1:120 - wow - respect!
 
I am a masochist of sorts in that I often let my ambitions/dreams get in the way of reality.  When it comes to detail, I feel that the more I can add the better (feel compelled as you say), but often I am forced into a reality check as there is only so much that can be achieved (especially with my amateurish skills) at this scale (let alone 1:120) - If I can do it it goes on and I will try many times before submitting to 'failure'. 
 
More often than not this is some minor/small detail on an item.  As an example, I am currently grappling with 'compressors' fitted to the pivot gun, very difficult as they are only 4mm x 2.5mm with rails/sides only .5mm thick.  These may end up being slightly oversized and only the basic form produced/used - time will tell.  The real trick I think is establishing some form of threshold as you have done and simply get on with it.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Pat

Welcome to 1:72 club then Tony,  if there is anything I can help out with just holler.  By necessity I am having to do a lot of research on ships of this era so if I can minimise your research efforts, happy to share what I have assembled.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Tony; a very subjective question as it depends on how much detail you wish to show and are capable of achieving.  The real artist in this scale is Ed Tosti (Young America) who achieves even better detail.  See what Wefalck also achieves at much smaller scale
 
For models where the overall model size is the driver, I find 1:72 is a good compromise scale.  There are also some commercial/aftermarket parts available (eg copper plates) to complement my efforts, and the scale remains 'big' enough for making scratch parts with a fair degree of detail although not to the level you could achieve at 1:48 or even 1:60.  Once I have determined HOW, the making soon resolves itself. but I take a fair bit of inspiration from the likes of Michael Mott, Keith Aug and Wefalck.  I must admit that at times though it can be frustrating but perseverance will win through eventually. 
 
I have found using a bit of PE to make up the parts (layering etc) has been very beneficial.  I am lucky there in that I am having to draw up the plans for the ship and equipment as I go so I have drawings that do not need a lot of extra work to turn into something suited to have PE done.  Again I am lucky as there is a guy located here in Melbourne who does PE (rather than having to learn yet another skill).  He is experienced and often spares me the time to work through the best way to create the parts (how to determine the individual parts, fold lines, shadow lines etc).  For example many of the parts for the pipe/valve fittings for the Downton pumps were done this way.
 
Overall, 1:72 is a good scale to work with, it is a good compromise between the level of detail achievable and size of the model itself; but does bring a few frustrations along for the ride
 
cheers
 
Pat

Thanks for the kind comment Steven; as you say, one tend's to favour their creations a little.  Although a club build, as its build coordinator/custodian I take great pride in seeing her develop.
 
cheers
 
pat

Thanks for the feedback Eberhard and John; appreciate your suggestions.  I think you may be right re the positioning of the chock as the darker section (extension) could be something else.
 
John, WRT to the cranes, a good point and I will revert (again ) to the gooseneck option I think; however, note that "Victoria" was minimum manned (along mercantile manning standards), but that said ash removal would not have been overly onerous on the crew most of the time.  I say this as one of the design considerations made by the designer ,and insisted upon by the build supervisor, was a heavier (than for similar RN ships) spars to allow her to be undersail for the majority of time (to save on fuel as suitable Coals were scarce in Australia at the time).  The engines were provided to allow her to operate in any condition when in her 'saving of life at sea' role, or, if required, in battle .   
 
I have been looking for a 'direct' connection between the Contractual wording of "iron crane" and gooseneck davit (or derrick), just to verify this but have found nothing yet; may just have to run with this as an assumption.  I was running with derrick as it is more crane like?  I too initially, and have reverted, was thinking a more simple arrangement would have sufficed.   Also, the Contract was very specific in using the term davit for the boats and the fish davit???  Oh well, yet another conundrum.
 
Thanks again
 
Pat

Hi again folks, yet another issue I am trying to resolve (well several actually) relating to the bowsprit and Jibboom (noting 1855 time frame)
 
Q1.  From Kipping I have sufficient information to dimension and shape the spars.  What is not given, and not shown in any plan, is what ratio is used to determine the housing lengths (bed to step of the bowsprit, and the doubling of the jibboom onto the bowsprit.  Is anyone aware of these ratios?  As best I can determine the inner end of the bowsprit was only 5 feet - is this too short for a 23 foot bowsprit?
 
Attached is a drawing I am doing which is superimposed on the profile photo of the ship.  The profile and photo do not fully align as the photo is taken with the sip laying with a slight stbd bow inclination so the angles (and lengths change).
 
Q2.  You can see where I have circled or called out possible joints for the heel chock/jibboom.  From what I can make out of this photo (not great quality as it was taken in 1867/8) is where I think the heel chock ends, but not sure where the butt joint is.  Both options are viable according to Kipping and to Underhill, whereby some ships of this era still employed a small/short chock, whereas other ships, especially clippers, used a longer version.  see other attached drawing from Underhill.  I am leaning towards the latter (longer version) as there appears som rounding down (more than the proportioned shape of a jibbom) evident.  that said though, this would leave a shorter housing?  Hence Q1 (part 2)
 
Q3.  the last question relates to interpreting the  bopwcap as shown in the image.  My read is that as it is so close fitting it is more likely to be an iron cap rather the squarer and larger wooden (old style) cap?
 
All comments ans suggestions most welcomed.
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
  
 

Thanks Eberhard, I've  not found much either.  I have assumed ash chutes as there is some reference to these in contemporary ship plans, and I have read that the ash, once raised was transferred by wheelbarrow to the lee chutes for disposal.  The Contract called for portable 'iron cranes' which I read as 'shiftable'   
 
So three options; a gooseneck arrangement, a derrick arrangement or a full on crane.  The NMM has sketches for two such cranes for this period, but they appear a little large and will have been obvious in the imagery.  My assumption then is that when required the crane would be moved to the 'lee side' and would only need a reach to service the hatch and barrows.  If a derrick was used, the reach may have been sufficient to allow the ash to be dumped overboard without transfer to a barrow.  The derrick could be dismantled easily when not required and maybe why it cannot be seen in the imagery.
    
I am leaning towards the simple derrick crane shown below.

cheers  
 
Pat
 
 
 

John, Michael, Carl, Keith, Druxey, Eberhard - thank you all for your very kind comments and encouragement; but as we all know we are our own worst critics   Thanks also for the advice re  turning acrylic; I have noted that all away.  I think my issue is turning speed as I have put the 10K rpm mod onto my lathe to get the higher turning speeds required for a clean wood finish.  The lowest speed is mid 1-2 k rpm, which is probably still too fast   Anyway it is done now and I am onto to completing the pivot gun as best I can.
 
Still some research required on the subject of 'ship's cranes as I need to make that decision very soon.  The Contract called for 'two cranes' for ash removal.  Still not sure what way to go, as I would have thought a 'goose neck' davit would have been the go, but as the Contract was specific for the 'fish davit' I think they may have specified it as such.  That said, a full blown crane seems a bit excessive and there is nothing showing on the imagery.  Cranes were around at the time and I have found two 'possible' illustrations/drawings of such items in the NMM (for this specific period) but they seem too big.  As far as I can tell, a simple goose neck davit over the hatch would have done the trick?  Any ideas?
 
cheers
 
Pat
 

Thanks John, this is what they should have looked like  .

 
Happy New Year to you both and wishing you a safe and fulfilling 2020
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi all, after a short (ish) sojourn I am back at the modelling desk; a long list of 'honey please do' jobs and continued research (on the rigging) interrupted by the festive season is my excuse
 
The following shows the additional work that has been done.  The progress photo (before fitting the circular skylights) shows the broadside gun carriages loosely sited in their future position.   I cannot progress these until we finish printing the 3D barrels but unfortunately my mate helping me with that, has a few health issues and that must take priority.  I have the trunnion caps, tackles and breeching ropes ready to go once we are in a position to print the guns.  the pivot gun slide has also been made and all the pieces for the carriage which sits on top have been cut but not yet assembled.
 
    
 
The circular skylights were made from turned acrylic rod (8mm) and PE which I drew up and I had etched here in Melbourne.  The photos show the 'prototype skylight which has since been cleaned up a little more.  Al (alpayed on this forum - building the Danmark) turned these for me as I was doing something wrong and the rod kept melting on me.  These formed the base with the spigot being used as the locating pins and a small hole was drilled in the top while still in the lathe to accept a brass pin.  This pin is intended to represent a small rod and cover in the actual item that could be raised to allow ventilation through the skylight.  The sides were photo etched with the brass vertical bars etched deeper so that when the top and bottom were painted to represent the wooden parts, it looked like the bars were recessed.  The side were rolled and formed on a dowel then silver soldered for strength before painting. 
 
The conical part represents the bars over the top but at this scale it proved simply too difficult to include the wooden framing.  Overall I think they came out ok, but I am tempted to redo the tops as I could not get the 'exact' diameter of the formed cone to sit on top of the side pieces.  to the eye it looks fine, but a close inspection, especially through the camera shows they are not sitting uniformly on top of the side pieces.
 
cheers, and a very happy, healthy and safe 2020
 
Pat
 
    
 

Hi Rob, not too far off.  I have been sidetracked with a lot of research on the rigging, getting the "honey please do and Christmas to do lists done and...   You get the idea I think too many things to do and not enough hours.  I am currently working on completing the broadside guns.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
cheers
 
Pat