Gabek

I have a few suggestions, based on my many failures!
 
1) Try tilting your model.  I use 25 degrees from vertical most often.  For this print, tilt the transom "backward" (into the ship) so the details are tilted upwards.  This will make the surface smoother.  Also, the pockmarks and pimples left over from the supports will be hidden.  I have printed and trimmed supports from pieces like the mullions in your model. 

 
 
2) Try using Lychee Slicer (the free versions works well for me).  The Auto supports work very well but always inspect the supports and add more as you see fit..  I would set the density of the supports to "High" or "Ultra" to begin with.  

 
3) I think that your issue is most likely an exposure setting.  I highly recommend that you test each type of resin and resolution you print with TableFlip Foundry's test print entitled "The Cones of Calibration".  https://www.tableflipfoundry.com/ You'll see this link on their homepage:

Once you print the file this is how you interpret the results.  I have been able to dial in my resins for amazing prints. By the way, many resins will state their optimum resolution is 0.05mm and even at this resolution you should be getting nice details, However, try something like 0.03. 

 
4) What  type of resin are you using?  I have tried over a dozen different resins and have fallen in love with Anycubic ABS+ and Anycubic UV Tough resins.  I don't think I'll buy any others from now on.  
 
I hope this helps!
 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe

Pandora’s Box
 
What have I gotten myself into?!
I’m really second-guessing my decision to build the well and shot locker.  I’m sure I spent more time building this little thing than I spent on building my garden shed!  And, this decision to add the well has created a ripple of changes to the model from the original MSW plans.  Thank goodness I have Ainars Apalais’ build log for reference - such a beautiful and motivating model!  My final design was an amalgam of four sources: actual photos of period shot lockers from HMS Victory, HMS Trincomalee, plus drawings from AoTS: HMS Diana and AoTS: HMS Pandora.

 
After cutting some 1.80mm square stock from birch for the stanchions I prepared planks using 1/32” - 0.8mm baltic birch plywood. The planks in the well were beveled so they fit together better, so I filed/sanded bevels top and bottom edges.  I drew arrows on the planks so I wouldn't get the bevels the wrong way, but it didn't always work!  I began with the bulkhead that separated the well and shot locker.  As I progressed I came upon several inconsistencies in my model.  Of course there were minor flaws in the existing framing and planking of this model - but they became so obvious that it drove me nuts.  (Oh yeah, building at 1/96 is another decision I’m regretting!) 
 
In the incredible AoTS books I also found a couple of errors, the biggest one was that the access door to the well was too low for a ship with all its ballast. The ballast cants are almost never showneven though they are integral to the design of the ship.  Because I have included the ballast in this model I was forced to move the door up more than in the drawings. It still looks ok, in my opinion.  
 
Some photos of the process:



After unsuccessfully trying to hand cut some brass hinges for the shot locker scuttles and the access door I decided it was time to play with some of my toys.  First off, I thought I could print these using my resin printer again.  However, these hinges were so thin that the prints failed.  I'm sure that at 1:48 scale I would have succeeded, but not at 1:96.  So I turned to another toy I have: a Jinsoku Genmitsu 1620 laser cutter/engraver. I have been doing mostly engraving hobbies with this small, desktop laser but at 5.5 watts it has enough power to cut through thin wood and some other materials.  I have been dying to try this out for some time now.  I drew hinges using basic shapes in Lightburn, the control software I subscribe to for the laser.  This could have been done in any drawing program and free laser software like LaserGRBL, but Lightburn is much more useful for the engraving I do.  My first attempt was to simply engrave the hinges into the shot locker lid.  (Top left in the above montage).  With a practice piece I got a nice result which would have been fine - it would be inside a tiny model.  But, of course, I decided it wouldn't do.  I needed something three dimensional. 

And again, 1:96 scale came back to haunt me!  I started with the thinnest maple veneer I have. The laser cut very well and could even cut the bolt/nail holes in these tiny hinges.  But even the veneer looked way too thick once I placed them against the door and scuttles.  

 
So, I switched to the only wood product that could be thinner: paper.  Some blue poster board and a manila folder provided very cheap stock for me to play with.  A black felt pen turned them into “iron” and away I went cutting and playing.  

I experimented with folding and gluing the tiny bits of paper to resemble folded strap hinges.   Another hobby came into use as I raided my fly-tying gear for fine black wire to represent pins in the hinges!  By the way, don’t use CA glue if you try this - the paper became so hard that it snapped and cracked when I tried folding them.  Just use PVA. The veneer that I had cut earlier was too thick to represent iron hinges, but it was perfect for the wooden cleats inside the shot lockers to which the hinges are nailed/bolted. So, I glued those onto the underside of the shot locker scuttles. 

After some painting and varnishing of the well and parts I made some ring bolts using the same, fine fly-tying wire.  I found an insect pin that had a diameter close to the diagrams of the ring bolts and wrapped the wire around it.  I drilled small holes and pushed the twisted ends of the wires into place.  A tiny drop of CA on the inside should hold these in.  I placed the paper hinges in place just for these photos. 
 

I won’t install the well and all the associated bits until I do some more work to the hold.  Namely, barrels, shingle ballast, lanterns, block and tackle…
...What have I gotten myself into! 
 
Clear skies!
Gabe
 

Just wonderful work, Gary!  Superb details.
Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe

Hello modellers,
I was frustrated in my search for 3D files of casks suitable for my Triton build so I finally just sat down and created some in Fusion 360. 
 

Attached you will find:
two cask designs - one with 6 metal hoops and one with 8 metal hoops.  Each are hollow and there is a separate file for the head (lid), which you can glue on to close up the cask.  The current files are 1:48 versions of "leagers" - the largest casks used for water. These are easy to scale and resize in your slicing or CAD software.  
I found this reference on the Society for Nautical Research website on the size of these casks which was used in designing the models: https://bit.ly/3XKCIzO :
THE OED has a quotation “1800  Naval Chron. 3 66  The largest casks are called leagers, and are of the following dimensions: Length..4 ft. 6 in., Diameter of Bouge..3 ft., Diameter of Chine..2 ft. 5 in” ...  
The 8-hoop design is based on photos of the casks in the HMS Victory and HMS Trincomalee.  

CREDIT:  https://andyandjudi.com/2017/07/10/hms-victory-portsmouth-historic-naval-dockyard/37portsmouth-hms-victory-lower-hold-keel-ballast-and-stores/
 

CREDIT:  Davies, W., & Mudie, M. (2015). HMS Trincomalee: Frigate 1817. Seaforth Historic Ships.
 
These printed up beautifully on my Elegoo Mars with Anycubic ABS+ resin at both 0.03mm and 0.05mm slices. 
Here they are printed at 1:48 and 1:96 with Number One showing off the scale. My first try at painting one is shown.  I will likely change the colours slightly. 

I have already printed up smaller versions of these files for the variety of other casks that were used on board a Royal Navy ship.  Here is a print of 1:96 hogsheads at 88% the size of the leager:

 
I hope some of you will find this helpful.  I would be happy to send along the pre-supported files and print settings if anyone would like.  
 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe
 
 
Cask with 8 hoops - no lid .stl Cask with 6 hoops - no lid.stl Cask Lid.stl

Hello every one. It's been awhile since I posted any thing on Montague/Alfred but wanted to get the the planking done on the Winchelsea and after 6 month's or so of building the bulkhead's and planking her in boxwood I finally went back to work on Montague/Alfred. Been slowly working on adding more beams to the upper deck. I added a few photo's of the Winchelasea  and do hope you enjoy the photo's. Sorry about the delay on getting back to her. Gary

Small up date I have decided to Mark this Model   " TIDE OFF" A nautical term for losing the wind in your sail and are adrift on the tide till you get your wind back. Not sure where it will take me but,  I will  just go with the tide. Not sure what shore I will land up on or crash upon the rocks.   So this will give me more time for my sea of Galilee boat  log and research I think I need it LOL

Hull is done
 
Besides a few days off due to back issues, I still managed to add trim, fenders, and rails.


 I soaked the plywood for the forecastle bulkhead and formed it around a piece of ABS drain pipe that was the perfect diameter (forgot to photograph it). After drying, I installed it and planked over as per instructions.  I’m glad that I looked ahead in the “instructions” because I discovered two hawse holes that needed to be drilled in the interior forecastle bulkhead, which would have been much more difficult had I not done so now.  Ideally, these should have been drilled before installing the curved forecastle bulkhead.  

I sanded, scraped, patched and cleaned the model.  Reattached the broken stem.  Varnishing will happen next. Then on to deck furniture and fittings. 
 

Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
 

Hull is done
 
Besides a few days off due to back issues, I still managed to add trim, fenders, and rails.


 I soaked the plywood for the forecastle bulkhead and formed it around a piece of ABS drain pipe that was the perfect diameter (forgot to photograph it). After drying, I installed it and planked over as per instructions.  I’m glad that I looked ahead in the “instructions” because I discovered two hawse holes that needed to be drilled in the interior forecastle bulkhead, which would have been much more difficult had I not done so now.  Ideally, these should have been drilled before installing the curved forecastle bulkhead.  

I sanded, scraped, patched and cleaned the model.  Reattached the broken stem.  Varnishing will happen next. Then on to deck furniture and fittings. 
 

Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
 

And that’s what keeps me up at night! 🤣

Looking great my friend , petal to the metal!! your going to make it 👀 we be whatchin  

Hull is done
 
Besides a few days off due to back issues, I still managed to add trim, fenders, and rails.


 I soaked the plywood for the forecastle bulkhead and formed it around a piece of ABS drain pipe that was the perfect diameter (forgot to photograph it). After drying, I installed it and planked over as per instructions.  I’m glad that I looked ahead in the “instructions” because I discovered two hawse holes that needed to be drilled in the interior forecastle bulkhead, which would have been much more difficult had I not done so now.  Ideally, these should have been drilled before installing the curved forecastle bulkhead.  

I sanded, scraped, patched and cleaned the model.  Reattached the broken stem.  Varnishing will happen next. Then on to deck furniture and fittings. 
 

Clear skies and sharp tools,
Gabe
 

I don't know much about the Toronto group but, since I'm in Winnipeg, attending the 60-90 minute, monthly Zoom meetings with MSON works well for me.  The next regular meeting is on April 16.  They actually have a special online presentation on April 15 on paper/card models originating from the UK.  This has really piqued my interest.  
 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
Gabe

I don't know much about the Toronto group but, since I'm in Winnipeg, attending the 60-90 minute, monthly Zoom meetings with MSON works well for me.  The next regular meeting is on April 16.  They actually have a special online presentation on April 15 on paper/card models originating from the UK.  This has really piqued my interest.  
 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
Gabe

Welcome aboard MSW and hello from Winnipeg!
 
You'll find many resources and help in these forums.  Great place to come to.  Although I would consider myself to primarily be a wood model builder, I just bought a couple of 1:700 WW2 models on my shelf that I hope to squeeze in and a 1:144 HMCS Snowberry. It's been about 45 years since I built a plastic model!
 
You might also be interested in a model club near you that has online meetings - and the majority of them are in these forums:  
Model Shipwright of Niagara.  I just joined a few months ago and have enjoyed the meetings so far.  If you're interested, membership is free - you just have to complete a form online:  https://modelshipwrightsofniagara.weebly.com/ 
 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe

Welcome aboard MSW and hello from Winnipeg!
 
You'll find many resources and help in these forums.  Great place to come to.  Although I would consider myself to primarily be a wood model builder, I just bought a couple of 1:700 WW2 models on my shelf that I hope to squeeze in and a 1:144 HMCS Snowberry. It's been about 45 years since I built a plastic model!
 
You might also be interested in a model club near you that has online meetings - and the majority of them are in these forums:  
Model Shipwright of Niagara.  I just joined a few months ago and have enjoyed the meetings so far.  If you're interested, membership is free - you just have to complete a form online:  https://modelshipwrightsofniagara.weebly.com/ 
 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe

Hi there, greetings from Toronto.
 
I am currently a university student with little time for modelling during the school year, but get to it when I can.
 
I got into scale modelling pretty young out of an obsession for all things Titanic (a story I don't think is quite so unique). Initially interested in ship models, I also got into aviation from video games and also enjoy 1/48 aircraft. However, I discovered how perfect 1/700 is for ships, especially with the detail Flyhawk can produce while not taking up an entire shelf like with 1/350 or table with 1/200. Therefore, I thought I'd get into this range of models, and coming onto the forum would be a good way to help that along.
 
I am currently working on a 1/700 Derfflinger, with a Prinz Eugen or Hood in the near future. Ambitious I know, but I do have experience.
 
Very happy to be joining the community, hope to chat more with people who share this great hobby.

I just had to post this update before @Knocklouder sends me a "gentle" reminder! 🤣
 
Got quite a bit done, including dropping the model and breaking off the stem! 😡😭 Fortunately, it’s a clean break and I'll reattach it as I get close to finishing the hull.  In my zeal in sanding down the completed second layer planks I managed to round off a few corners, especially on the poop.  I decided to patch these up.  Looks much better.
 
I'll just post the pictures now and stop socializing before @Knocklouder sends me a "gentle" reminder!  🤣






Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe
 
 
 

I just had to post this update before @Knocklouder sends me a "gentle" reminder! 🤣
 
Got quite a bit done, including dropping the model and breaking off the stem! 😡😭 Fortunately, it’s a clean break and I'll reattach it as I get close to finishing the hull.  In my zeal in sanding down the completed second layer planks I managed to round off a few corners, especially on the poop.  I decided to patch these up.  Looks much better.
 
I'll just post the pictures now and stop socializing before @Knocklouder sends me a "gentle" reminder!  🤣






Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe
 
 
 

Give 'er! 
 
This great and useful Canadian phrase is always used as an excited exclamation to "go for it", "floor it", "do it" and that’s exactly what I'm going to do…at last!  Inspired by fellow Manitoban @knocklouder and fully embarrassed at not only missing my son's graduation but also his wedding I figured I've GOT to finish this gift before our first grandchild is born…which should be this July!    

So, here it is…I'm going to just give 'er!
 
Feb 7, 2023.  7 years late! Dusted off the model and got organized.  Planked the separate poop deck and then glued it in place.  Prepared a message for inside the cabin.
. 
Feb. 8: closed up the cabin.

 
Feb 9-11: Began the first layer of planking.  I am not a fan of this method because it is so historically inaccurate, but I'm not arguing or changing.  I realize that this is just to establish the shape of the hull.

Feb 12: completed first plank layer:

Feb 13:  sanding the hull. 

Feb 14-15: applied wood filler, sanded and filled in low spots.

Feb 16:  drew in station lines and closed in the transom.  Used a storage bottle to help clamp the planks of this curved feature. 


Here’s to just givin' 'er!  A very productive week. 
- Gabe

 
 

Looking good,  you can mark the planking up to,    on my next ship. But I am pretty sure that your grandchild  will   not look at it and say nice but you did not follow  Chuck Passaro's tutorial did you lol.
 great progress  . Give the engin a couple of revs before given 'er.  PS you know we need a doctor  note to cover your time off lol   

Welcome aboard, Andrew! 
You've come to a great place to learn about this hobby.  I've seen someone has already mentioned Model Shipwrights of Niagara.  I just joined it a few months ago and have enjoyed attending the monthly Zoom meetings.  It is well worth the time to check it out:  https://modelshipwrightsofniagara.weebly.com Membership is free. There is a membership form on the main page or you can just email them directly: modelshipwrightsofniagara@gmail.com 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe

Second time around…
 
A bit of a delay on the model due to a bout of Covid…it went ok for me but a week disappeared.  🤒
 
Once I got back to the workbench I finished the second planking and, while waiting for glue to dry, continued with the forecastle deck.  Finished sanding the hull today.  It turns out that I'm getting pretty good at installing planks incorrectly! 😝


I have a few repairs on a couple of corners and I'll fill a couple of small gaps with sanding dust I collected.
Clear skies and sharp tools, everyone!
- Gabe

Welcome aboard, Andrew! 
You've come to a great place to learn about this hobby.  I've seen someone has already mentioned Model Shipwrights of Niagara.  I just joined it a few months ago and have enjoyed attending the monthly Zoom meetings.  It is well worth the time to check it out:  https://modelshipwrightsofniagara.weebly.com Membership is free. There is a membership form on the main page or you can just email them directly: modelshipwrightsofniagara@gmail.com 
Clear skies and sharp tools!
- Gabe