Gabek

A couple of steps more forward 
 

So practise I did, and I still have a way to go before the notches are perfect, but the nice thing is that the lower deck gives practice for the gun deck which will be more visible!
 
Getting the beams on
 
I thought it best to make the entire aft beam, beam arm, carling and ledge assembly before gluing the beams to the hull as I thought it would be too difficult to place the arms, carlings and ledges afterwards.
 
That pesky little aft-most carling which will have no support at its aft end was epoxied in and trued up with a square beforehand as well.
 
Once I had done that, I glued the beams to the hull with rapid-setting epoxy and held them down with the simple clamping arrangement shown in the photo.
 

 
Lodging knees
 
I then had a look at the lodging and hanging knees. It was immediately apparent that making the hanging knees fit perfectly was going to be a challenge well beyond my capability. So I had a read of Antscherl’s book on the Fully Framed Model, and he suggested that it was quite as likely for the lodging knees to cover the entire distance between the beams – unlike the current plans where the knees do not do so.
 
If I were to make the lodging knees cover the full distance, this would make the construction of the hanging knees more easy as I’d only have to cut the pattern in relation to the planking below the beams. So that’s exactly what I did.
 
Notch placement for the ledges
 
In order to have the notches for the ledges between carlings line up across the width of the section, I placed the carlings in their notches and only then drew the lines across them from knee to knee using the position of the notches on the knees as reference points (and using a pair of dividers as markers). I then took down the carlings and cut the notches for the ledges before gluing them in place.
 

 
After all this, placing the ledges was fairly straightforward.
 

 

 
Of course there are lots of errors and slight misalignments, but as I said above, it makes for good practice for the gun deck.
 
The next challenge, though, is to work out how to make and cut accurately the hanging knees for the lower deck.
 
Onwards and upwards (to the gun deck eventually, that is)!
 
Tony

A fantastic job on those beam arms at that scale, I'm going to hang around for the rest of this project if you don't mind!!??👏😃

To arms!
 
I had a clear idea of how I was going to fit the beam arms to the beam. I would need to concentrate on creating notches that lined up, were square and had tight junctions.  Well, easier said than done!  I first trimmed all the planking and sanded the ends on a flat surface. A single coat of varethane was applied to the outer frames to keep dirt off and minimize damage.  

I dry fit the beam to determine the proper placement of the beam arms.  Once laid out I used an exacto knife to mark where the notches would need to be made, maintaining a correct alignment of opposite beams arms. The microsaw allowed me to create the stop cuts.  I needed to use the very tip of the xacto blade to carefully chisel out the notches. A slip here and I might have knocked out a giant chip, wrecking all the work...but what’s new?! All of us are in this boat (🤪) together! 

 


It took a lot of trimming, scraping and cursing to fit the beam arms and, in the end, I had a few unsightly gaps and mistakes.  I then reminded myself that this work will likely never be seen.  Besides, I collected dust from sanding the frames and will be adding it to the glue when the time comes to fill in the voids!😳🤣

Clear skies!
Gabe
 
 

I set up my little table saw to make carlings. I’m astounded that I had to make over a metre of 2.6mm x 2.6mm stock for this tiny model! (And there will be way more needed for the ledges!) As I was cutting all the carlings I was mulling over the next steps and realized that I need to deal with the beam arms before anything else. The stock material  was made by resawing some birch left over from the frames. 

 

 
 
 
 
(Kind of messy job with the spray glue!)
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
My biggest concern in making these beam arms was to make sure I had the spacing and sizes all consistent.  At thIs scale, just a fraction of a millimetre would be noticeable.  So I devised a plan to mark and shape the pieces so that they all matched.  After I glued on templates I sanded each raw blank carefully to where the beam arms needed to be notched. This allowed me to line up those notches when I clamped all four beam arms together.  I then made the stop cuts for the notches by cutting across all four beam arms at once. 



 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
Using a square and knife to mark the notches.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Marking all done.



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Using this microsaw to make the stop cuts
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
I separated the pieces, made several depth cuts in the notched out areas, and used a small chisel to rough cut the material. I concentrated on getting one beam arm completed by filing, sanding, scraping and praying.  This first beam arm would become the template for the remaining ones, which were first rough-shaped on the belt sander and then clamped altogether for final shaping.  Although not perfect, I'm pleased with the end products. It was good practice for when I will do the same for the gun deck.
 




 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Depth cuts to assist in making the notches
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
Taking out material using a small chisel.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 



 
 
 
 
 
Filing to the lines.
 
 
 

 
First beam arm done.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Three more to go! 

Getting ready for final shaping.

 
 
 
 
 
 
Here are all the tools I used to make these! 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
One wrong move and...🤬😢😫

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The whole time I worked on these I chuckled at how much anxiety they were able to create and how much they reminded me of the wishbone from the Operation game!  And about as big! 

 
Clear skies!
Gabe
 

A year! It’s been almost a year since I last worked on this model! Sheesh.
 
One step backwards...
I have some advice for other procrastinators:  go back and read your build logs before you pick up that forgotten model.  It would have saved me half a day of work if I had! When I took my Triton out I was perplexed to find that I had only finished one of the upper deck clamps. So, I began preparing stock and planning to shape pieces when I came across the fully assembled clamp in the bottom of the storage container! Wha'?! Then it all came back to me. I discovered that the frames on one side were not spaced properly and had to painstakingly remove the clamp. I was so disheartened by this backward step that I just boxed up the model in disgust and put it on the shelf! 
 
Good news: I didn’t have to fabricate a new deck clamp and, in no time, I had it glued in place with the frames properly spaced. 
New/used upper deck clamp back in place.
 
Deck Beams
 
 After mulling over my options I decided that I should build the decks.  This would determine the spacing of spirketting, waterways and interior planking. I was able to prepare some 3.30 mm birch stock, glue on templates for the beams and rough cut them out:


 
As usual, sanding these small pieces to the correct lines presented some headaches. I tried to do it all by hand, but it was taking so long that I resorted to gingerly taking the "bulk" waste off with my 1” belt sander.  I forgot how nerve-wracking this is! One tiny misstep and I would have to start over again! 
A study in concentration. 
I first tried to do the final sanding with a sanding block but it was taking forever and I was getting frustrated. Birch is beautiful wood to work with but its hardness was working against me. I needed something larger and faster to remove the material before I exploded. 
Are we there, yet?!
In preparation for working on the model I rejuvenated my sanding stick with new 100, 150, 240 and 400 grit sanding paper. With a scrap piece I tried out if I could drag and/or push these small pieces across the wider sanding surfaces. And now birch was my friend! These pieces handled the sanding very nicely and in no time at all I had all 8 deck beams to where I wanted them.
Easy-peazy sanding! 
To eliminate minor differences I clamped the four lower deck beams together and did my final sanding to shape.  I’m too excited to get to the rest of the lower deck that I'll finish shaping the gun deck beams later.



I dry-fit the lower deck beams and I’m happy!😃 (And now I see how little room I have to work with!😳)

Going to have to do some careful planning from here on.  Particularly because I intend to show the hold with ballast and stores. Any advice would be welcome and appreciated.
 
Next step: this Canadian goes carling!🇨🇦🥌🤣
 
 
 
 

Here are two pictures out of Emmanuel de Fontainieu book.... whom I respect on Hermione a lot.

Thanks Christian! Indeed it was caused by the stretching of the paper while glueing it on the board. This was most noticeable on the long and thin parts like the 4th futtock (frame 5).
I have used a water based glue stick so presume this caused the paper fibers to deform....lesson learned!  

Thanks Jon, for the encouraging words
 
The first step has been completed; I must say there were much more frame parts then expected.
I’ve kept the leftover parts and collected some dust as well – perhaps it will come handy during this build.
 
Rok

I set up my little table saw to make carlings. I’m astounded that I had to make over a metre of 2.6mm x 2.6mm stock for this tiny model! (And there will be way more needed for the ledges!) As I was cutting all the carlings I was mulling over the next steps and realized that I need to deal with the beam arms before anything else. The stock material  was made by resawing some birch left over from the frames. 

 

 
 
 
 
(Kind of messy job with the spray glue!)
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
My biggest concern in making these beam arms was to make sure I had the spacing and sizes all consistent.  At thIs scale, just a fraction of a millimetre would be noticeable.  So I devised a plan to mark and shape the pieces so that they all matched.  After I glued on templates I sanded each raw blank carefully to where the beam arms needed to be notched. This allowed me to line up those notches when I clamped all four beam arms together.  I then made the stop cuts for the notches by cutting across all four beam arms at once. 



 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
Using a square and knife to mark the notches.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Marking all done.



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Using this microsaw to make the stop cuts
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
I separated the pieces, made several depth cuts in the notched out areas, and used a small chisel to rough cut the material. I concentrated on getting one beam arm completed by filing, sanding, scraping and praying.  This first beam arm would become the template for the remaining ones, which were first rough-shaped on the belt sander and then clamped altogether for final shaping.  Although not perfect, I'm pleased with the end products. It was good practice for when I will do the same for the gun deck.
 




 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Depth cuts to assist in making the notches
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
Taking out material using a small chisel.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 



 
 
 
 
 
Filing to the lines.
 
 
 

 
First beam arm done.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Three more to go! 

Getting ready for final shaping.

 
 
 
 
 
 
Here are all the tools I used to make these! 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
One wrong move and...🤬😢😫

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The whole time I worked on these I chuckled at how much anxiety they were able to create and how much they reminded me of the wishbone from the Operation game!  And about as big! 

 
Clear skies!
Gabe
 

I set up my little table saw to make carlings. I’m astounded that I had to make over a metre of 2.6mm x 2.6mm stock for this tiny model! (And there will be way more needed for the ledges!) As I was cutting all the carlings I was mulling over the next steps and realized that I need to deal with the beam arms before anything else. The stock material  was made by resawing some birch left over from the frames. 

 

 
 
 
 
(Kind of messy job with the spray glue!)
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
My biggest concern in making these beam arms was to make sure I had the spacing and sizes all consistent.  At thIs scale, just a fraction of a millimetre would be noticeable.  So I devised a plan to mark and shape the pieces so that they all matched.  After I glued on templates I sanded each raw blank carefully to where the beam arms needed to be notched. This allowed me to line up those notches when I clamped all four beam arms together.  I then made the stop cuts for the notches by cutting across all four beam arms at once. 



 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
Using a square and knife to mark the notches.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Marking all done.



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Using this microsaw to make the stop cuts
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
I separated the pieces, made several depth cuts in the notched out areas, and used a small chisel to rough cut the material. I concentrated on getting one beam arm completed by filing, sanding, scraping and praying.  This first beam arm would become the template for the remaining ones, which were first rough-shaped on the belt sander and then clamped altogether for final shaping.  Although not perfect, I'm pleased with the end products. It was good practice for when I will do the same for the gun deck.
 




 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Depth cuts to assist in making the notches
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
Taking out material using a small chisel.
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 



 
 
 
 
 
Filing to the lines.
 
 
 

 
First beam arm done.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Three more to go! 

Getting ready for final shaping.

 
 
 
 
 
 
Here are all the tools I used to make these! 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
One wrong move and...🤬😢😫

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The whole time I worked on these I chuckled at how much anxiety they were able to create and how much they reminded me of the wishbone from the Operation game!  And about as big! 

 
Clear skies!
Gabe
 

Hello, happy new year to everyone. 
My first time back in the workroom since before the holidays and I had to buy some blocks from Chris Wattons Vanguard Models as my attempts were absolutely atrocious, so I took the easy route. 
Have finally rigged one cannon still have the other to do. 
The one I have done has been fitted as "run in" mainly because I found it easier to fit the tackles but also I've not seen any portrayed this way. I may be wrong and someone else has done it. I kind of like it. The second cannon will be fitted "run out " as the norm.
Thanks for all the likes, comments and input from you all, it is much appreciated. 
Cheers 👍😁

Hi, just a quick update, I've repositioned the entry steps and adding one more as per plans. Also made the gangway ladder which will go on the side with the deck planking when I finally fit that gangway. 
My thanks to everyone who has looked in,  liked and for comments.
Cheers 👍😁

Hello, managed to get a couple or three hours at the workbench, and made a scraper to form the entry steps, I've also fitted them and the fenders to one side of the cross section, the gangway to the same side has been fitted as there are no guns going that side.
Thanks for the likes. 😁
Cheers for now 👍

A year! It’s been almost a year since I last worked on this model! Sheesh.
 
One step backwards...
I have some advice for other procrastinators:  go back and read your build logs before you pick up that forgotten model.  It would have saved me half a day of work if I had! When I took my Triton out I was perplexed to find that I had only finished one of the upper deck clamps. So, I began preparing stock and planning to shape pieces when I came across the fully assembled clamp in the bottom of the storage container! Wha'?! Then it all came back to me. I discovered that the frames on one side were not spaced properly and had to painstakingly remove the clamp. I was so disheartened by this backward step that I just boxed up the model in disgust and put it on the shelf! 
 
Good news: I didn’t have to fabricate a new deck clamp and, in no time, I had it glued in place with the frames properly spaced. 
New/used upper deck clamp back in place.
 
Deck Beams
 
 After mulling over my options I decided that I should build the decks.  This would determine the spacing of spirketting, waterways and interior planking. I was able to prepare some 3.30 mm birch stock, glue on templates for the beams and rough cut them out:


 
As usual, sanding these small pieces to the correct lines presented some headaches. I tried to do it all by hand, but it was taking so long that I resorted to gingerly taking the "bulk" waste off with my 1” belt sander.  I forgot how nerve-wracking this is! One tiny misstep and I would have to start over again! 
A study in concentration. 
I first tried to do the final sanding with a sanding block but it was taking forever and I was getting frustrated. Birch is beautiful wood to work with but its hardness was working against me. I needed something larger and faster to remove the material before I exploded. 
Are we there, yet?!
In preparation for working on the model I rejuvenated my sanding stick with new 100, 150, 240 and 400 grit sanding paper. With a scrap piece I tried out if I could drag and/or push these small pieces across the wider sanding surfaces. And now birch was my friend! These pieces handled the sanding very nicely and in no time at all I had all 8 deck beams to where I wanted them.
Easy-peazy sanding! 
To eliminate minor differences I clamped the four lower deck beams together and did my final sanding to shape.  I’m too excited to get to the rest of the lower deck that I'll finish shaping the gun deck beams later.



I dry-fit the lower deck beams and I’m happy!😃 (And now I see how little room I have to work with!😳)

Going to have to do some careful planning from here on.  Particularly because I intend to show the hold with ballast and stores. Any advice would be welcome and appreciated.
 
Next step: this Canadian goes carling!🇨🇦🥌🤣
 
 
 
 

Hi all Ship mates.
 
Small update of my work progress.



And couple more bits & pieces
 


 

Hi.
Well finally I have gone a few more steps forward.
And glued together all frames.
 



 
 
Finally, also is ready for sanding.
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi All.
Finally I chose to start this project. Like many others this will be my first attempt to scratch building. But  I hope that I will have enough skills and have time to finish it.
 


 
I completed the all kell parts, and ready for next step.
Like to ask for the rest of the plans

Hello everyone, 
@AnobiumPunctatum thanks for looking in.
@ChadB I'm glad you like them as they are the 3rd edition knees  as 1 and 2 just didn't cut it! WOOHOO!!! another deck to do!
I've done it a different way this time, I've used a spot of CA glue just on the edge carlings to make the framework and then filled the rest in using white glue.
I didn't have any teak oil left so bought some Danish oil, tested it on some scrap, (Hanging knee edition 1 haha) liked it so put a coat on the lowest internal planks also on the hatch coaming.
That's it for today, thanks for the likes everybody 👍
Till next time 
Cheers 

Hi, been at work today so only had couple of hours on X section this evening. 
Still at work on the lower deck structure, lots of components,  the knees take a bit of cutting and shaping to make them fit. I think there is at least another 2 or 3 hours work before this deck is done, then it's more of the same for the gun deck.
Thanks Chad, Eamonn, Phil and Blackviking for your interest 👍
Til next time. 
Cheers 

Hi, RAIN AGAIN@#@÷!!, so not at work.
Started on the lower deck structure,  it's so intensive,  I have nothing but the utmost respect for those people doing a full framed scratch build, all those frames and decks. But I'm getting there (faster with the weather as it is). Got let the glue dry so till next time😉👍
Cheers 

Hi again,  more rain today so more time on Triton X section. 
More planking on the inside and beam arms cut and attached to the deck beam.
If it keeps raining I shall have this finished😅
Thanks for the likes and looking in👍sorry about the strobing effect of the planking but I'm mainly using whatever wood I have and just buying what I haven't got.

Hi all, another small update, I decide to fit the access ladder to the gangway on the unplanked side, therefore I had to put a small area of deck for the ladder to stand on. Also made the second gun barrel, it still needs painting. 
To rig the cannon I need blocks but looking through my bits and pieces I have not got enough so I'm attempting to make my own. I've used a piece of 4x3mm walnut and made 4 single and 4 double blocks. I need to get them to look less "blocky" if you get my meaning. I thought if I put them in a small pot with coarse sand it might work a bit like a tumbler,  I'll let you know how I get on next time. 
I appreciate all the likes, comments and advice 😁
Cheers 👍👍

A year! It’s been almost a year since I last worked on this model! Sheesh.
 
One step backwards...
I have some advice for other procrastinators:  go back and read your build logs before you pick up that forgotten model.  It would have saved me half a day of work if I had! When I took my Triton out I was perplexed to find that I had only finished one of the upper deck clamps. So, I began preparing stock and planning to shape pieces when I came across the fully assembled clamp in the bottom of the storage container! Wha'?! Then it all came back to me. I discovered that the frames on one side were not spaced properly and had to painstakingly remove the clamp. I was so disheartened by this backward step that I just boxed up the model in disgust and put it on the shelf! 
 
Good news: I didn’t have to fabricate a new deck clamp and, in no time, I had it glued in place with the frames properly spaced. 
New/used upper deck clamp back in place.
 
Deck Beams
 
 After mulling over my options I decided that I should build the decks.  This would determine the spacing of spirketting, waterways and interior planking. I was able to prepare some 3.30 mm birch stock, glue on templates for the beams and rough cut them out:


 
As usual, sanding these small pieces to the correct lines presented some headaches. I tried to do it all by hand, but it was taking so long that I resorted to gingerly taking the "bulk" waste off with my 1” belt sander.  I forgot how nerve-wracking this is! One tiny misstep and I would have to start over again! 
A study in concentration. 
I first tried to do the final sanding with a sanding block but it was taking forever and I was getting frustrated. Birch is beautiful wood to work with but its hardness was working against me. I needed something larger and faster to remove the material before I exploded. 
Are we there, yet?!
In preparation for working on the model I rejuvenated my sanding stick with new 100, 150, 240 and 400 grit sanding paper. With a scrap piece I tried out if I could drag and/or push these small pieces across the wider sanding surfaces. And now birch was my friend! These pieces handled the sanding very nicely and in no time at all I had all 8 deck beams to where I wanted them.
Easy-peazy sanding! 
To eliminate minor differences I clamped the four lower deck beams together and did my final sanding to shape.  I’m too excited to get to the rest of the lower deck that I'll finish shaping the gun deck beams later.



I dry-fit the lower deck beams and I’m happy!😃 (And now I see how little room I have to work with!😳)

Going to have to do some careful planning from here on.  Particularly because I intend to show the hold with ballast and stores. Any advice would be welcome and appreciated.
 
Next step: this Canadian goes carling!🇨🇦🥌🤣
 
 
 
 

Somehow it has been a year since the last update.  We spent a year renovating a house and moved last February, and it took a little while to set up the workshop.   I seem to be back in some sort of building rhythm since last month.  Outside details are done including chain plates and all the moldings and rails.  Chain plates were a big step forward for me in terms of metal work and silver soldering.  They were an experiment in copper so I could shape them around the deadeyes and blacken them in place with liver of sulfur.  Deadeyes are ebony.
The pumps were a challenge.  Someplace along the way (probably about 3 years) ago I miscalculated on the path of the pump shafts and they ended up a few millimeters further inboard of the bitt pins than they should have been.  I also had some of the decorative shaping on the bitt pins at the same height that the rhodings needed to be attached.  I ended up adding some shims between the rhodings and the bitt pins.  Hopefully some 18th century shipwright had the same problem and solved it the same way.  The pump shafts and rhodings are brass.  My silver soldering continues to get better, and Greg’s post about metal blackening, particularly the sparex, was unbelievably helpful getting chemical blackening I was happy with.
I have an old Vanda Lay duplicator for my lathe.  It has sat in a drawer since a really frustrating attempt to duplicate brass cannon barrels on my last model, which was an epic fail.  I tried it again on the quarterdeck balustrades, and found that it works really well on wood.
Base, pedestals, and quarterdeck beam are also done.  I’m a gun, quarterdeck breastwork, and ladder away from finishing.