Ken_2
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Everything posted by Ken_2
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I thought the planks had been sanded smooth, but from the following pictures, I see many “non-smooth” features, mainly highlighted by the lighting. So, I will spend a little more time sanding. As well, I think now is the time to paint the hull before I go further.
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Me too, Kev. File, fit, repeat multiple times. I used superglue to install the bow piece, since I did not want to mess up the planks when taking it off. So, I was committed to a one-time install. But I used wood glue for the remaining pieces, which are drying now. There are small gaps here and there, which I may eventually cover with filler - depending.
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For me, the planking has always been the most difficult task, and my results always seem to be somewhat lacking. So last year, I purchased the "NRG Half Hull Planking Project" (https://thenrgstore.org/). The Planking tutorial provided good instructions, many new concepts, and allowed me to focus solely on planking and provided lots of practice. Although the work accomplished on this Bounty Jolly boat is still far from museum quality, it is the best I have done so far. The following 3 pictures show my progress in this kit. The next steps will be to sand the hull smooth, lower the top plank to be even with the frames, and trim the planks and the stern and bow.
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Once the plank is dry, it retains the shape, so I am able to sand the edges once more for a better fit. Then I glue it on.
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I spile the wood by laying tape on the boat and mark the tape where I want the next plank to lay. I remove the tape to a sheet of wood and cut the next plank, whose width is bit thicker than needed, so I can “tailor” it to fit on the boat. I sand one side to fit close to existing wood, and then sand the other side to have the proper width of the plank, as determined by excel measurements. When the resultant plank fit, I then soak the trimmed plank in hot water for 5 minutes and clamp it in place and let it dry overnight. Once dry, I dry fit the plank in place, make few more sanding adjustments, and then use superglue to install the plank. When clamping the wet wood, and gluing the plank in place, I aways start at the bow, as it is easier to deal with the sharp curve first rather that after the other parts are clamped/glued. And when gluing, I start by gluing only a few frames at a time. Once a plank is installed, I repeat the same process for the other side. I will spile several more planks until my leftover planks from another kit can be used (sanded to fit without spiling.
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- Bounty Jolly Boat
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I moved my workstation to the garage last spring and continued planking. But after working in the garage, family activities overtook me, and I was only able to work a month or so before summer completely took my time. (I like to sail on rented boats, hike, and cut wood for the winter. I also have been working on outside chores around the house). The following was prepared for my next post a while ago, but it was never posted, until now. This post is from last spring, but since I am back “at it”, I’m hoping more will follow on a regular basis. It seemed to me that the next planks will require a significant bend sideways (edge setting) at the bow and stern to keep the planks laying straight when running forward and aft. (See the pictures below). Thus, I decided to spile these next few planks until I could use the kit provided straight planks again.
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To address the bonding surface, I beveled the frames to match the curvature of the planks (I do this as I go). And I added a bonding pad at the front and stern to ensure adhesion.
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- Bounty Jolly Boat
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Thanks Kev, for the heads up on the complexity about how the planks fit in the stern as they transition from the keel to the last frame (i.e. there is a small bonding surface). I studied this and modeled the assembly with a few left over planks (picture below). I decided to make the aft portion of plank # 4 flair to 5 mm so that it filled the last of the keel. And sized the 5th frame per my excel (i.e. 3.4 mm). this seemed to make a smooth transition. I then placed the prototypes in position and they seem to fit.
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Very interesting. This seems to be a short coming of the kit
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That’s all for this week.
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I faired the frames and installed the 6 mm garboard and the broad strake planks on each side. These first 2 planks did need a bit of narrowing at the bow, to make a close fit to one another and to allow for the false keel. I can’t tell if they are too wide, which will cause more curving than the top sheer. Once these were installed, I remeasured the remaining open frames to ensure I had the right distance to place the remaining ten 5 mm planks. Then I cut 10 strips of wood, each with the width of a plank for each frame as noted in the Excel sheet above (e.g. 2.4 mm). I then use a pencil mark on each frame with that same width. This, to ensure I had the right measurements, and to measure progress as I add planks to the fames. Then marked the first 5 mm plank with the desired width, in preparation for narrowing. And installed it.
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On to planking. I’ve decided not to use the taper planks that were provided in the kit. I’m going to use the lessons from the NRG Half Hull Planking Project. I measured each frame and calculated how many planks I will use, and how much to taper them, and if I will need drop planks and/or Stealers. The picture below is my first draft of the planking plan. I renamed the first 2 bow frames 1 and 2. I found the leading edge of the 1st frame was 24 mm long. Frame 6 is the widest at 62 mm. The provided planks are 5mm. The picture below, of my excel, is what I used to start my planning. It is not obvious what I have done. Still, I am learning and this is my best. The resultant “tailoring of planks” is in the Red text. This red text is to be the adjusted width of each plank at each frame (except the first two planks. These slightly adjusted after installation and started with a 6 mm width). A summary of the Excel: The Excel is intended to: 1) keep the planks from getting too narrow at the bow, 2) to keep them in line with the sheer of the boat, and 3) provide me a starting point for shaping the width of the planks. The garboard and the broad strake are at a fixed 6 mm width. The rest of the planks start at a 5 mm width and are to be shaped. The Red text below applies to these 5 mm planks and is the final width after “narrowing” of these planks at each frame.
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I cut and glued the seats in place with the wood provided, and now I am ready to start the planking process. But as I measure and plan for the planks, I can’t help thinking that the appearance of the Ramin wood seats could be improved. I am committed to not painting the interior, so all that is left for a different seat “look” is to use a different kind of wood. Since I have a large sheet of Cherry Wood laying around, I cut a strip of wood 8 mm wide, and I like that better. I also have a sheet of Oak. I will unglue a few Ramin seats and set them aside. I will proceed to start the planking process, and at some future point, I will select which wood I like and re-install the seats. Who knows, maybe I will paint after all!?
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Next, we are to attach the stern thwarts and batayolas (or bow rail). I struggled knowing how to “fit” the bow rail until I looked at the large illustration and Peanut6’s build log (nice build log Kev, lots of helpful information). It is supposed to be at an angle.
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I am still studying my color scheme, but I have decided to keep the interior of the launch as natural wood. Thus, I can go back to working on the boat now. I will only paint the hull, rigging, oars, and other deck equipment. But one lesson learned is that I need to identify a color scheme before I start building my next boat, rather than pick my colors part way through the assembly process. With all this garage stuff out of the way, I am now proceeding to add the floor boards to the Jolly boat. I had previously cut all the floorboards, before my garage upgrade, but as I went to place them in, not all of these fit on the frames as shown in the instructions. I had to “widen” the upward curve of 4 of the frames, in order to lay all the floor boards flat (see red circles below). In addition, not all of the seven strips of apparent mahogany were of the same color. One of one of the seven strips was whitish. Rather that trying to paint or stain this wood, I decided to cut a new floorboard from another mahogany strip that was left over from another boat.
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As I progress through this build process, I realize I need a paint color scheme for the boat, and a better airbrush station than my cardboard box. I’ve been meaning to upgrade my workspace in the garage, so I took this time to pause work on the boat and built a new work bench. I also took time to filter all the junk that I have collected over the years, and store it better, or throw it out. Now that most of my junk has been organized, I then built a new spray booth.
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Allan Thanks for that link. I will find examples of launches in that link and study them carefully. This will be very useful. I seem to learn best by not doing what I'm told and finding out later why the right way is best. So, whether i can learn from these ships plans before I assemble this boat or after I assemble it, I will be better for the link - Thanks. I am currently struggling for a unique but somewhat period correct color scheme. I think I have one, but like i said I, may find it is not quite right after I have painted the boat. Ken
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Kev: Thanks for tagging along. I need all the advice and help I can get. I know what I am doing, and just can't do what I know! ha! Now that I think about your lesson about delaying the "attachment of the deck" advice, I see it would have been better for me to not attach it either. I've been absent for a while building a new work bench and spray booth (pictures to follow soon). but now I am getting back into working on the boat. I am currently stuck on what colors I will use and where. I wish I had thought of the color scheme sooner, but thankful I thought of it before I progress further. All of the completed Bounty jolly boats look so good. From wood to wonderfully colored boats. I'm thinking my frames and deck will be a wood color, and the hull will be a combination of mostly white with some trim colors. I may use the frames as it, or paint them somewhat darker, like yours. If I elect to paint the frames it will be difficult to paint with the deck attached. I can tape everything off and paint. Thats a lot of work, but good practice on my taping skills. These days I use wood glue which can often be taken off with warm water. So, once I get back into the "harness", I'll make a choice on the color scheme, make a little more progress, and then post a few days' worth of work. I say days, ... when really, I mean evening and weekends. We are providing full time day care for our grandchildren 1, 2 and 3 yrs old. This is a full-time job! Thus, I am progressing pitifully slow. I'd apologize, but my wife is teaching me so much about children, I have come to believe that being a positive influence on these wonderful kids has become my 1st hobby, and modeling is now my 2nd hobby. So "ahead slow" it is. 🙂 Blog with you later Ken
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kev: I just started a build of this boat, and I am finding your build log very helpful. Thanks. Your planking job looks stellar. I am hoping I can do half as good as you did. Looks sweet! Ken_2
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I glued the deck on the frames using wood glue (not instant glue as recommended). Next I cut the floor boards. There is no extra wood provided, only seven 310 mm lengths of floor board. One 310 mm piece for the 187 mm center board and six 310 mm pieces for the six 140 mm boards and six 167 mm boards
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Then I removed the laser char. The char (the effects of heating the wood while cutting for later assembly) leaves a wood surface that looks burned and is a rough surface, both of which can hinder surface bonding with glue. I spent some time studying the best way to remove this char. As best I can tell, one does not need to remove all the darkened wood for gluing, but only smooth it. So, I sanded all charred surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper to smooth it out. Further, if the surface is to be seen, one needs to sand it further, such that all darkened wood is removed. Some people did this even if it was to be painted, since the darkened wood has a different finish, which may show in the finish of the paint. For this part of the boat, I think most of the wood will not be showing. Thus, I just used 220 grit to smooth down all the char. By looking ahead, I see a portion of the frames will show (as seen in the red circle below). After dry fitting and before I glue these frames on the keel, I did a more careful sanding of the parts of the frames that will show, and I will study the keel more carefully. I think the false keel will hide the charred surfaces.
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- Bounty Jolly Boat
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Step 1, assemble the outer keel, frames, and bow reinforcements. I removed all the parts.
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The HMS Bounty set sail from England in August of 1787 on a Botanical mission. The famous mutiny occurred in July of 1789, nearly 2 years later. Captain Bligh and 18 other sailors were set adrift in the Jolly Boat designed for a maximum of 15 people, and not designed as an ocean going vessel. They were given minimal supplies. Captain Bligh and his men sailed the subject open boat 3,618 nautical miles to the Dutch settlement on Timor, part of today’s Indonesia. This boat was 23 feet long. They were provided with 5 days provisions, water, a sextant, nautical tables, charts and at the last minute 4 cutlasses were provided. I have had this kit in my closet for some time, and I thought I would assemble it since, 1) summer is fast approaching and I do not want to get involved in a complex boat build until next fall, when I may have more free time, and 2) but, if I wait until next fall, some of my newly acquired modeling skills may be forgotten. So, it seems like this is a good way to stay current, empty my closet, and be ready for something more challenging, later. The quality of the instructions and materials are typical of Artesania Latina. The instructions are to look at all the photographs and read all the documentation provided in the kit. I have done this, and I am ready to begin.
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