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Harvey Golden

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Everything posted by Harvey Golden

  1. No expert on this, but I'd refer you to the trove of photographic resources at https://www.navsource.org . Briefly, most seem to have been greatly reduced in size and the 3-d effect was done away with (and brought back after the war). You'll also find that it seems to have varied greatly by type/time as to the size of the numbers. I don't believe they were obscured, based on what i've seen on Navsource, and the numbers (and letters when present) were white No doubt others here know much much more. Harvey
  2. Dear Clare, Thank you for posting the youtube videos of your models from Brooks' studies. They are very beautiful, and exceptionally well done. I had been thinking of making one from his book, but am over-extended with other projects. Someday! Best, Harvey
  3. Not sure if this is of any help: (Sourced from https://www.shipcamouflage.com/usn_cve.htm) They also show the Gambier Bay's scheme. (The ocean gray on the model's color chart looks a little dark.)
  4. Hello Ian, Yes, Cole's book is on the shelf here, thank you! I'm sort of new 'round these parts, but if you click on my name, it might lead to pics of my models. . . . they're a very random assortment(!) All the best, Harvey
  5. Welcome! I'm a big fan of West Coast fish boats, and have scratch-modeled a few (mostly Columbia River types). Look forward to seeing your projects! Best, Harvey
  6. Thank you Clare-- that explains it. Shall keep that place in mind for a future visit! I'm enjoying this project. H-
  7. Hello Clare (and all)! Very interesting project, as always. What is the "Rope?" ... sounds interesting. Have the Nagoya Castle models been on exhibit long? I don't recall them from my visit (ca.2006). All the best, Harvey
  8. I've been wondering the same thing in recent days. Even if you match the color of the paper, the sheen, texture, precise shade is never exactly like the paint-- you learn quickly that there's a million forms of "white." In the photo, you can see the color difference between the white paper and the white paint adjacent the stripe. I have also been printing text and then going back with fine brushes to add the correct white, and then tidy up with the text color-- essentially using the printout as a pattern of sorts. I think the biggest issue might be paint wrinkling up the paper as it dries. Perhaps if you know where the text will be on the paper, just pre-paint that particular area, so you aren't working with a full page of painted paper-- I haven't tried it, but this could work. Wondering who will try it first(!) Best, Harvey
  9. I just received Aryeh Wetherhorn's book, and I'll be repainting my model when I get a chance. It is quite a fine looking book extensively illustrated (in color) with good historical background. 341 pages. Here's a cover and inside shot:
  10. Dear Aryeh, Thank you for the kind comments and direction towards a good source on camouflage for ships of this period- I've just ordered your book! Yes, I had a lot of trouble with the patterns and colors for reasons you mention. I don't recall my source on the particular shades, but I think period paintings of ships were helpful, though undoubtedly a little misleading. Looking forward to reading your book-- all the best, Harvey
  11. I haven't watched the film through, but I'd think you might find similar vessels (though not motorized) in Worcester's "The Junks and Sampans of the Yangtze."
  12. That makes very good sense, but there are still a good number of drawings he made from lines that he took that are not pointed consistently. I think if he had felt strongly about one direction or the other, he would've pointed them thus, even when basing a drawing off of a historic plan, but who knows? -Harvey
  13. I was also thinking about drawings. . . Chapelle's lines-drawings are very inconsistent, which strikes me as a little odd. No doubt certain schools have their "ways," but others just followed their fancy. The thought of a boat (in model or lines drawing) traveling the direction one reads is interesting, but when I 'read' a boat, I go from bow to stern, so my inclination is to draw them pointing left. (My mentor told me not to draw them that way, BTW...) Harvey
  14. Dear John, It might not be period-correct-- I've not been able to determine this. Otherwise, not an uncommon color of lighting for nighttime navigation, at least since the 40s. The auto-exposure on my camera sure makes it brighter than it should be. Best, Harvey
  15. Oops. I finished. I think, anyways. First time building a ship with ratlines, though simple and mercifully few, as they were. Van Gaasbeek's book was a wonderful source, though when you really get into it, one is still left with many questions. Never mind reading the plans. . . I searched the internet for hours trying to find out what an "MF Vent" was before realizing it was just a bad imprint of "MR VENT" or Mushroom Vent. (I sure came up with what MF stood for on my own.) If anyone wants mirrored-sections (in a .docx file) or any other 'stuff' I drew up for the project, let me know. Below are photos; I'll probably post a few on-the-water pics in the Gallery next time I get down to the river. Thanks all for following along. Best, Harvey
  16. Stays in place and ratlines in progress. Chainplates in place (made of paper with glue 'bolt-heads'). A couple errors fixed, such as the height of the forward rifle platform. Many more details ahead and clean-up here and there. I do believe I'll be making a rudder in the not-too-distant future. Oh-- a crew was scrounged up, as well! (Trumpeter 1/200).
  17. "De Nederlandsche Scheeps Bouw Konst" (Van Yk, 1697) and "Scheeps-Bouw en Bestier" (Witsen, 1671) are in fine facsimile re-print in recent years.
  18. A bit more progress lately. Also, here's some little details that might be of interest . . . Book-cloth for lifeboat covers and grommet punches to make life rings. I've also used these punches to make portholes when using heavy paper for cabin walls-- they leave a nice raised ring on the opposite side (I used grommets and plywood for the walls on this model). 1918 was a very good year for cowl ventilator salesmen . . .
  19. A little more progress: Bridge deck and boat deck are in place. The screw showed up, so the rudder post is in place with the screw aperture refined. One photo shows how the light from the LEDs is diffused inside the deck houses: The LEDs are dropped down white-painted plastic straws. The last three 'midships lights are the port and starboard running lights and a red wheelhouse light.
  20. Another great source for traditional rigs-- quite specific to smaller craft-- is Nichols' "The Working Guide to Traditional Small-Boat Sails." It has sections on Gaff rigs as well as Spritsails and others. It has been a big help with models as well as full-size craft for me. Best, Harvey
  21. Brilliant binder clip mod! I glued dog-legs onto clothespins to do the exact same thing, but they just don't grip as well. Lovely project too!
  22. Electrical systems check. More details in place, and more detailing needed. Quite the festive barge at this stage. . . And naturally I've long since broken off the tail end of the keel . . .
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