GGibson

Me, too! 😅

Nice work on the gunports, Jim. Looking good so far! I will be watching your stern transom work with great interest. I am just beginning my Model Shipways 1:76.8 scale Constitution build, but I have the BlueJacket instructions as another reference tool, so am interested in watching your build progress, as well. In fact, I have looked in depth at @KurtH's transom work on his Constitution build, as he did a great job with his. Carry on, sir! Keep moving forward! 👍

Awesome historical pictures, nonetheless... 👍🏆

Thanks for the info, Peter! Yeah, once I get proficient with this DB250, I may decide to upgrade.

Nice work, Peter! I just picked up the Proxxon DB250 lathe, figuring I'd have plenty of opportunities to use it on my Constitution. Love to see you using it on brass. Thanks for sharing.

Excellent brass work, Peter! 🏆

Ahhh, they look great, Mustafa! Perfect detail. I appreciate the detailed info. Put that in my memory for... whenever I get to this! 👍

Welcome back to your shipyard, Mustafa! I assume the berth deck portlights are simply small brass tube pieces inserted and glued

Thank you for your service, sir! Wow, quite the service resume! 👍🏆 My son is an O-5 Naval Aviator, now in Reserves, and I think he intends on (hopefully) getting to O-6 before full retirement. Navy life has been good to him and his family. Appreciate all your detail you provide on your build. As Jon knows, I, too, have the practicum as I begin my Constitution build and will continue to refer to it periodically, but am relying more on your collective build logs for much of my processes and guidance. Thank you!

Impressive, sir! 👍🏆

Excellent work, Peter! I haven't had an opportunity yet to use the Proxxon mill on brass. So, is the base and the flat part all one piece, or are they two separate pieces soldered? Details! 😉👍

Awesome work on the ship's wheel, Peter! It turned out looking superb! And nice use of the Proxxon mill! 👍🏆

Do as much of the gaff & boom rigging and block preparation as you can off ship. When it got to that point, I used my tall "helping hand" alligator clip holder apparatus to hold the gaffs in place while doing the final rigging and securing the gaff to the mast with parrel beads. I decided not to do sails on my Bluenose, so I wish you the best with the sail installations!

The bowsprit blocks do look better, Rod! And, yes... a ton of clove hitches! Great job! Getting the flying backstays on the ship will help solidify the main mast, as well. Your Bluenose is looking awesome.

Good to know, Jon. Should have known you had that all figured. Appreciate the clarification. Thanks!

Definitely something to consider, Mustafa! I appreciate your confidence in me! 🤷‍♂️😅 I need to look back at some more of your forward spar deck pictures to remind myself how your gun deck details in that area are exposed. Your work is magnificent. Hoping your summer holiday with family has been wonderful and relaxing!

Hey Jon! As I have been looking some more at your spar deck planking pictures again, another question came to mind, and I apologize if I have missed something in your previous work, but... had you already done the necessary shaping/tapering of the bowsprit in preparation of its eventual rigging prior to installing it? Prior to your planking in the bow area, it would be easier to remove and replace the bowsprit into its keyhole slot with no spar deck planking. With it all planked now, MUCH more difficult! Perhaps you did all that work when you were working on the bowsprit hatch and I've just skimmed over that section of your build log (so far!) and missed that completed work. Thought I would ask the question, though. Interested in seeing how you finish the deck staining!

The spar deck planking is looking very nice, Jon. Great info to store away regarding the tapering. And it's awesome to see how your detailed gun deck will be exposed in certain areas. Coming along great! Thanks for sharing!

Another “mini-project” done (well, mostly done), so another short update. Bow Knightheads and Timberheads Using the plan copies that I had made to cut up and use as templates, I cut out the spar deck framing piece and outlined it on a 3/32” section of provided basswood sheet. I also flipped it and re-outlined it for the port side framing. Using my scroll saw, I then cut the framing for both sides and sanded to shape. Using the same outline the template” process, I also cut out the knightheads and timberheads for both sides. Several of the build logs I have used for research and guidance mentioned that the lengths of the plan’s pieces might have been a little short, so I added 1-2mm to each of the framing pieces as I cut them, so I could adjust as needed when I fit them on top of the filler blocks. I worked on the starboard side first and used the knighthead #1 piece and the timberhead #5 piece (the one closest to Bulkhead A) to have the spar deck frame to sit on for fitting and adjustment. A bit of sanding was needed for the spar deck frame to sit well in its “slot” between the center keel and Bulkhead A, and the notches both in the filler block and the spar deck frame needed some small widening in spots for the frames to fit well. I also tested the height of the spar deck frame, as well, against the existing tops of Bulkheads A, B, etc., to make sure the spar deck planking will be level. I then repeated all of this process on the port side of the ship. The plans also show the addition of planksheer supports, stiffeners and bridle port header and sill. Using some suggested 3/32” square strips, I added the planksheer supports just above the spar deck level. I’d like to hold off on any stiffener additions until I get a better idea of how the bow area will be completed,, and I’m holding off on the bridle port frames until I get to the gun deck gunport framing, as that will all be done at the same level and I want it to be as accurate as I can. Whether these are good decisions or not… we shall see. It will be easy, though, to add (I think) when needed. I also need to do some additional sanding, both inside and out, to smooth things out. Also, I do recall Jon Gerson mentioning an issue he discovered at this point in his build regarding the bowsprit placement and, in looking further at his build log and at some other logs, I reminded myself that, at some point before it all gets closed up and hard to get to, I will need to widen the area where the two spar deck frames come together to allow for the bowsprit to fit properly. Thanks, Jon! I am also cognizant of the issue Peter reminded me of in his post above regarding the planking placement on these spar deck frames. It is great to have such awesome build logs and followers to rely on through this Constitution build! Y’all are fantastic! Thanks! For now, though, I think I am moving to the back of the ship to begin the stern and transom framing. This, of course, is where everyone’s building methods have changed depending on which Constitution era we are shooting for. Exciting times ahead! Appreciate the likes, follows, comments and criticisms.

Nice work on the steering wheel base, Peter! The plans show the base wood to be cherry. This looks really close. Is it natural wood, painted or stained?

Thanks for this reminder, Peter! Yeah, I just finished cutting and shaping the spar deck framing pieces before I read your reminder post... ...and am wondering if I shouldn't redo this framing with a slightly wider girth, as you suggested in your Post #14, just for grins. OK, off to make these knightheads and timberheads. 🤷‍♂️🤞

Appreciate the info, Peter. And, yes.... well, technically 1:76.8

The Syren wheel, albeit the assembly looks to be a bit tedious (excellent lathe work, BTW), does look pretty sharp with some stain, Peter! OK, I am too lazy to pull applicable plans out and do the measurements and conversions, but I am curious (and trying to take meticulous notes). The Syren wheel looks to be in scale with your kit-provided wheel. Is that Syren's 24mm or 31.75mm wheel? Thanks, Peter! Great work, sir!

Thanks, Peter. As simple as it is, it really did help me get the blocks to the more accurate shape that they need to be prior to gluing. But not for the brass wire measurements, I probably would have quit shaping the blocks multiple times before hitting the mark. But, in measuring, I would be as much as 2-3mm off in sanding/shaping. So, I kept at it. Hopefully, that will save a lot of additional sanding needed once I actually get to the hull planking. Appreciate the follow and the comments.

Excellent question, Jon! And I guess my best response is to use the 🤷‍♂️emoji and say "I dunno...". Didn't really think about doing it that way and using the scroll saw for the notches. Perhaps it was because my scroll saw is out in the garage and the Proxxon mill is in the shipyard and more convenient to use. I think I am more accurate with the mill, too, than with the scroll saw blade. Was planning on using the mill again for the upper bow framing notches, too. Hmmm.... Appreciate your feedback, Jon. Thank you!