DocBlake
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Thanks, Brian. Here's a final shot after fixing the port side also. The port side wasn't nearly as bad as the starboard. Next up is finishing the fairing of the transoms and installing the wales. When that's done the framing is complete and I'll begin work on the lower deck.
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DocBlake got a reaction from mrshanks in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Thanks, Brian. Here's a final shot after fixing the port side also. The port side wasn't nearly as bad as the starboard. Next up is finishing the fairing of the transoms and installing the wales. When that's done the framing is complete and I'll begin work on the lower deck.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I tackled the transom problem today. Because of problems with the lofting of the after cant frames, the frames did not line up with the transom. The last 4 frames tended to curve inward, like the bow, rather than flow straight to the transom. The only solution was to cut each of the final frames and "bend" then outward to meet the planking which is already in place. The frames were then glued to the planking, and when the glue is completely dry, I'll fair the inside of the hull where the "surgery" took place prior to planking the inner bulwarks. It was REALLY difficult to chuck a cutoff wheel into my Dremel and cut the frames off after all the work that went into building them! Fortunately, I'm planking both sides of the model down to the wales, inboard and outboard, so the "fix" will not show.
The first photo shows the problem, the second shows the cuts and the third shows the frames straightened out and glued to the planking.
Now on to the port side!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Thanks, Brian. Here's a final shot after fixing the port side also. The port side wasn't nearly as bad as the starboard. Next up is finishing the fairing of the transoms and installing the wales. When that's done the framing is complete and I'll begin work on the lower deck.
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DocBlake got a reaction from mrshanks in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I tackled the transom problem today. Because of problems with the lofting of the after cant frames, the frames did not line up with the transom. The last 4 frames tended to curve inward, like the bow, rather than flow straight to the transom. The only solution was to cut each of the final frames and "bend" then outward to meet the planking which is already in place. The frames were then glued to the planking, and when the glue is completely dry, I'll fair the inside of the hull where the "surgery" took place prior to planking the inner bulwarks. It was REALLY difficult to chuck a cutoff wheel into my Dremel and cut the frames off after all the work that went into building them! Fortunately, I'm planking both sides of the model down to the wales, inboard and outboard, so the "fix" will not show.
The first photo shows the problem, the second shows the cuts and the third shows the frames straightened out and glued to the planking.
Now on to the port side!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The keelson is glued to the frame floors using Weldbond. The black bands are nylon electrical cable ties acting as clamps to hold the keelson to the assembly while the glue dries.
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DocBlake got a reaction from CharlieZardoz in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Scuppers and sweep ports cut into the port side. The scuppers are bigger than they should be because when drilling the pilot hole to cut out one of them, the drill came out too high on the plank above the black strake. All the scuppers had to be bigger to compensate. Still, I think it looks OK. It's just one of those things that the builder notices, but no one else usually does on the finished model
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Thanks for looking in, Hamilton.
Don: Purpleheart is a very brittle wood and hard to work with. The grain is strong so you have to be very careful cutting with an X-Acto blade. I'm glad I only had 2 strakes to contend with. I did have a lot of practice on my MS AVS because I used bloodwood to plank the inboard bulwarks. Very similar characteristics.
I bent the wood using a steam iron. it worked pretty well, but took awhile. After gluing the strakes in place, I cut the upper edge of the gun ports into the purpleheart. Here's a photo.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I've added the shear strake and completed framing the gun ports. After the glue is cured I will cut away the shear strake to the top of the port frame to define the upper edge of the gun port. On the old MS model of the Armed Virginia Sloop, many builders painted the shear strake to add a little decoration. I decided to make mine out of purpleheart and not paint it.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I added the black strake and three boxwood strakes above it. The practicum calls for adding a 4th strake and then framing in the gun ports. The ports are then opened up by drilling holes at the corners, and connecting the holes with an X-Acto knife. The better way is to cut the ports BEFORE adding the 4th strake! I used a razor saw and cut down using the hull frames as a guide. The bottom of the port is formed by using a #10 X-Acto to define the line and then sawing through the half frame that needs to be removed with a #13 blade. A file cleans up the edges. As you can see they are crisp and straight. Once the last strake is added to the top off the port, the top edge is defined again with an X-Acto. Please excuse the planking. It hasn't been sanded so the grit, glue stains and unevenness show up well. It WILL look better when done!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I've been trimming the little tabs that were used to stabilize the frames when they were glued to the rising wood and deadwood. There are three left to do! You can see from the photo how each frame flows smoothly into the rabbet. My next task is the final hull sanding and attaching the counter and transom.
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DocBlake got a reaction from dgbot in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Thanks, Brian. Here's a final shot after fixing the port side also. The port side wasn't nearly as bad as the starboard. Next up is finishing the fairing of the transoms and installing the wales. When that's done the framing is complete and I'll begin work on the lower deck.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Steam tool for bending wood model ship planks?
I use a regular clothing iron. It works great on thinner planks. It's a bit tougher when the plank is 1/8" or thicker, though.
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DocBlake got a reaction from hamilton in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Thanks, Brian. Here's a final shot after fixing the port side also. The port side wasn't nearly as bad as the starboard. Next up is finishing the fairing of the transoms and installing the wales. When that's done the framing is complete and I'll begin work on the lower deck.
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DocBlake got a reaction from hamilton in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I tackled the transom problem today. Because of problems with the lofting of the after cant frames, the frames did not line up with the transom. The last 4 frames tended to curve inward, like the bow, rather than flow straight to the transom. The only solution was to cut each of the final frames and "bend" then outward to meet the planking which is already in place. The frames were then glued to the planking, and when the glue is completely dry, I'll fair the inside of the hull where the "surgery" took place prior to planking the inner bulwarks. It was REALLY difficult to chuck a cutoff wheel into my Dremel and cut the frames off after all the work that went into building them! Fortunately, I'm planking both sides of the model down to the wales, inboard and outboard, so the "fix" will not show.
The first photo shows the problem, the second shows the cuts and the third shows the frames straightened out and glued to the planking.
Now on to the port side!
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DocBlake got a reaction from SkerryAmp in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I tackled the transom problem today. Because of problems with the lofting of the after cant frames, the frames did not line up with the transom. The last 4 frames tended to curve inward, like the bow, rather than flow straight to the transom. The only solution was to cut each of the final frames and "bend" then outward to meet the planking which is already in place. The frames were then glued to the planking, and when the glue is completely dry, I'll fair the inside of the hull where the "surgery" took place prior to planking the inner bulwarks. It was REALLY difficult to chuck a cutoff wheel into my Dremel and cut the frames off after all the work that went into building them! Fortunately, I'm planking both sides of the model down to the wales, inboard and outboard, so the "fix" will not show.
The first photo shows the problem, the second shows the cuts and the third shows the frames straightened out and glued to the planking.
Now on to the port side!
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DocBlake got a reaction from GuntherMT in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I tackled the transom problem today. Because of problems with the lofting of the after cant frames, the frames did not line up with the transom. The last 4 frames tended to curve inward, like the bow, rather than flow straight to the transom. The only solution was to cut each of the final frames and "bend" then outward to meet the planking which is already in place. The frames were then glued to the planking, and when the glue is completely dry, I'll fair the inside of the hull where the "surgery" took place prior to planking the inner bulwarks. It was REALLY difficult to chuck a cutoff wheel into my Dremel and cut the frames off after all the work that went into building them! Fortunately, I'm planking both sides of the model down to the wales, inboard and outboard, so the "fix" will not show.
The first photo shows the problem, the second shows the cuts and the third shows the frames straightened out and glued to the planking.
Now on to the port side!
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DocBlake got a reaction from dgbot in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I tackled the transom problem today. Because of problems with the lofting of the after cant frames, the frames did not line up with the transom. The last 4 frames tended to curve inward, like the bow, rather than flow straight to the transom. The only solution was to cut each of the final frames and "bend" then outward to meet the planking which is already in place. The frames were then glued to the planking, and when the glue is completely dry, I'll fair the inside of the hull where the "surgery" took place prior to planking the inner bulwarks. It was REALLY difficult to chuck a cutoff wheel into my Dremel and cut the frames off after all the work that went into building them! Fortunately, I'm planking both sides of the model down to the wales, inboard and outboard, so the "fix" will not show.
The first photo shows the problem, the second shows the cuts and the third shows the frames straightened out and glued to the planking.
Now on to the port side!
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DocBlake got a reaction from SkerryAmp in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The keelson is glued to the frame floors using Weldbond. The black bands are nylon electrical cable ties acting as clamps to hold the keelson to the assembly while the glue dries.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The keelson is glued to the frame floors using Weldbond. The black bands are nylon electrical cable ties acting as clamps to hold the keelson to the assembly while the glue dries.
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DocBlake got a reaction from mtaylor in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The keelson is glued to the frame floors using Weldbond. The black bands are nylon electrical cable ties acting as clamps to hold the keelson to the assembly while the glue dries.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
All my frames are glued up. The first 8 have been sanded and beveled as needed and are sitting on the keel assembly in the building jig. My frames are hard maple, the keel assembly is cherry. Final fairing of the maple by hand is not going to be too easy!
Dave
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Not a lot going on in the shipyard recently. The Admiral and I just got back from 5 days up in the Door peninsula of Wisconsin. There's a nice collection of quaint waterside towns that remind me of New England seaside fishing villages, only these are in the Midwest! We really enjoyed the little excursion.
All the full frames for the sloop have been beveled and fit in place. I laid a plank across the framing both inboard and outboard and it looks like there will be very little fairing to be done because of the pre-beveling of the frames before installation. That's a relief!
The only mistake so far: I installed frame H backwards, with the floor facing forward instead of aft. The beveling is all correct...I just got a little confused when laying out the bevel pattern. I'm not rebuilding the frame, because I'm neither entering this ship in a contest, nor expecting my build to be examined by an expert in historic naval architecture.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GuntherMT in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
The keelson is glued to the frame floors using Weldbond. The black bands are nylon electrical cable ties acting as clamps to hold the keelson to the assembly while the glue dries.
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DocBlake got a reaction from mtaylor in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Thanks, guys.
Jeff: On the real ship the scuppers have to go through the bulkhead to drain. On a model, you can simulate this by drilling from either side and not all the way through. The MS AVS uses that technique. In this scale, though, through-scuppers are probably necessary
Does anyone know how bulwark planking was treenailed to the hawse timbers? Because of the plank width on this ship,either one or two treenails per frame could be used. Which would look better? I don't want it to be too "busy". Would there have been treenails in each of the three hawse frames?
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