DocBlake
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I'm beginning my build log of the Lauck Street Shipyards POF kit of an Armed Virginia Sloop, an admiralty style kit in 1/32 scale. The kit arrived in it's box and it is heavy! The contents are high quality hardwoods (primarily cherry for deck beams, knees, carlings etc. and hard maple for the frames) with lots of strip wood of various species for planking, trim etc. There are also a large number of 3-D printed parts; this being the first kit to offer them. There are 5 sheets of plans, each 36" X 24" included. I may alter the kit, and add additional details and possibly substitute some different woods, but I'm basically going to build it out of the box. Comments, criticisms and suggestions are welcome!
Here is the box, and some shots of the maple and cherry billets containing many of the parts.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Jaxboat in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Hi Keith!
Bob's AVS is not technically out of production, but he won't manufacture a kit unless he has a lot of 8 orders and business has been slow. He doesn't really advertise. If you are interested, I believe he has one AVS in stock right now. As to this Kit: It's quite a bit different from the MS AVS. The kit differs from Bob's previous kits in that the frames are beveled before installation, making the fairing of the hull, both inside and out, muck easier. The 3D parts are quite excellent. The detail is amazing. You'll have a hard time looking at typical MS, Amati, Corel Britannia metal castings and then using them. Photo below of the 3-D printed parts.
PS: If you're interested in selling "Halifax", I'll take it off your hands!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Cap'n Rat Fink in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Thanks, Dan.
The first step in the build is to make the frames. They come attached to the hardwood billets by two tabs. I found the easiest was to remove them from the billet was to use a Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel. In the photo, if you look carefully, you can see the burned area on the billet where the parts had been attached. Each frame is made up of 9 or 10 parts. The tabs are then cut off of each part, and the parts lightly sanded. The first layer of parts is stuck to a template of the frame with double sided tape, and the second overlapping "sistered" layer of parts is glued to the first. The photo gives an idea of scale
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DocBlake got a reaction from aviaamator in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Hi Keith!
Bob's AVS is not technically out of production, but he won't manufacture a kit unless he has a lot of 8 orders and business has been slow. He doesn't really advertise. If you are interested, I believe he has one AVS in stock right now. As to this Kit: It's quite a bit different from the MS AVS. The kit differs from Bob's previous kits in that the frames are beveled before installation, making the fairing of the hull, both inside and out, muck easier. The 3D parts are quite excellent. The detail is amazing. You'll have a hard time looking at typical MS, Amati, Corel Britannia metal castings and then using them. Photo below of the 3-D printed parts.
PS: If you're interested in selling "Halifax", I'll take it off your hands!
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DocBlake got a reaction from cristikc in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I'm beginning my build log of the Lauck Street Shipyards POF kit of an Armed Virginia Sloop, an admiralty style kit in 1/32 scale. The kit arrived in it's box and it is heavy! The contents are high quality hardwoods (primarily cherry for deck beams, knees, carlings etc. and hard maple for the frames) with lots of strip wood of various species for planking, trim etc. There are also a large number of 3-D printed parts; this being the first kit to offer them. There are 5 sheets of plans, each 36" X 24" included. I may alter the kit, and add additional details and possibly substitute some different woods, but I'm basically going to build it out of the box. Comments, criticisms and suggestions are welcome!
Here is the box, and some shots of the maple and cherry billets containing many of the parts.
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DocBlake reacted to jdbradford in Fair American 1778 by jdbradford - Model Shipways - scale 1:48 - 14-gun Privateer
After sanding and filling, sanding and filling, I sanded and filled some more. Then I primed, filled and final sanded before getting started on the 2nd layer of planking.
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DocBlake got a reaction from jdbradford in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Thanks, Dan.
The first step in the build is to make the frames. They come attached to the hardwood billets by two tabs. I found the easiest was to remove them from the billet was to use a Dremel tool and a cutoff wheel. In the photo, if you look carefully, you can see the burned area on the billet where the parts had been attached. Each frame is made up of 9 or 10 parts. The tabs are then cut off of each part, and the parts lightly sanded. The first layer of parts is stuck to a template of the frame with double sided tape, and the second overlapping "sistered" layer of parts is glued to the first. The photo gives an idea of scale
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DocBlake got a reaction from avsjerome2003 in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
Hi Keith!
Bob's AVS is not technically out of production, but he won't manufacture a kit unless he has a lot of 8 orders and business has been slow. He doesn't really advertise. If you are interested, I believe he has one AVS in stock right now. As to this Kit: It's quite a bit different from the MS AVS. The kit differs from Bob's previous kits in that the frames are beveled before installation, making the fairing of the hull, both inside and out, muck easier. The 3D parts are quite excellent. The detail is amazing. You'll have a hard time looking at typical MS, Amati, Corel Britannia metal castings and then using them. Photo below of the 3-D printed parts.
PS: If you're interested in selling "Halifax", I'll take it off your hands!
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DocBlake got a reaction from yvesvidal in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I'm beginning my build log of the Lauck Street Shipyards POF kit of an Armed Virginia Sloop, an admiralty style kit in 1/32 scale. The kit arrived in it's box and it is heavy! The contents are high quality hardwoods (primarily cherry for deck beams, knees, carlings etc. and hard maple for the frames) with lots of strip wood of various species for planking, trim etc. There are also a large number of 3-D printed parts; this being the first kit to offer them. There are 5 sheets of plans, each 36" X 24" included. I may alter the kit, and add additional details and possibly substitute some different woods, but I'm basically going to build it out of the box. Comments, criticisms and suggestions are welcome!
Here is the box, and some shots of the maple and cherry billets containing many of the parts.
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DocBlake got a reaction from jdbradford in Armed Virginia Sloop Patrick Henry by DocBlake - FINISHED - Lauck Street Shipyard - Scale = 1/32 - POF Admiralty Style
I'm beginning my build log of the Lauck Street Shipyards POF kit of an Armed Virginia Sloop, an admiralty style kit in 1/32 scale. The kit arrived in it's box and it is heavy! The contents are high quality hardwoods (primarily cherry for deck beams, knees, carlings etc. and hard maple for the frames) with lots of strip wood of various species for planking, trim etc. There are also a large number of 3-D printed parts; this being the first kit to offer them. There are 5 sheets of plans, each 36" X 24" included. I may alter the kit, and add additional details and possibly substitute some different woods, but I'm basically going to build it out of the box. Comments, criticisms and suggestions are welcome!
Here is the box, and some shots of the maple and cherry billets containing many of the parts.
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DocBlake got a reaction from KenW in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
All the sweep ports have been installed. I also installed the main rail and the planking above it on the port side. It's starting to look like a ship!
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DocBlake got a reaction from KenW in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
After cutting the sweep ports I turned my attention to the main rail and swiss pear molding (for the quarterdeck bulwarks). The practicum calls for a molding cut with a razor blade into which is ground the 3 bead profile. This is then used like a molding plane to "scratch" the profile into the wood. I tried a dozen times to get the 3 bead configuration right, and failed each time. The problem is the the molding strips are .075" X .075", pretty small! So I copped out and did the easy thing: I cut the molding to have 2 beads, not 3. In the end, no one will notice! (except me!). The photos show the practicum molding and the blade used to cut it as well as the blade I used to produce the 2 beaded molding. On my razor blade is a profile for the 3 bead molding that didn't cut well at all. I used the profile to the extreme right. Shown are two moldings: one in swiss pear, the other in holly.
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DocBlake got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Armed Virginia Sloop by DocBlake - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/48 Scale
I'm finally finished with my AVS!
Dave
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DocBlake got a reaction from mrjimmy in Design and Build a Custom Work Station
Nice job! A SketchUp model would be very cool to have.
I'm building a storage cart for parts from Woodsmith plans. This is to help organize the clutter around my work area. What I'd like to do after that is build the hobby bench featured in the current edition of Woodsmith Magazine, Here are some photos of the storage cabinet and the workbench
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DocBlake got a reaction from mrshanks in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
Jonathan: I think that the fixes and modifications that creep into each of these builds is part of the allure. You're right, of course. Everything will need to be checked and double-checked, especially at the stern end. I know that the deck clamps have already become an issue, and the rudder post may be also. But fixing these things is part of the game, right? It does cause heartburn, though. And in the end, people won't know the difference. But as you and I have said many times in build logs : "I will!".
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DocBlake got a reaction from Martin W in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
Jonathan: I think that the fixes and modifications that creep into each of these builds is part of the allure. You're right, of course. Everything will need to be checked and double-checked, especially at the stern end. I know that the deck clamps have already become an issue, and the rudder post may be also. But fixing these things is part of the game, right? It does cause heartburn, though. And in the end, people won't know the difference. But as you and I have said many times in build logs : "I will!".
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DocBlake got a reaction from GuntherMT in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
Jonathan: I think that the fixes and modifications that creep into each of these builds is part of the allure. You're right, of course. Everything will need to be checked and double-checked, especially at the stern end. I know that the deck clamps have already become an issue, and the rudder post may be also. But fixing these things is part of the game, right? It does cause heartburn, though. And in the end, people won't know the difference. But as you and I have said many times in build logs : "I will!".
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DocBlake got a reaction from Martin W in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
Thanks for the comments, guys. Jonathan: I did compensate for the foreshortened view on the Hahn plans. My problem is that I got the angle of the transom in reference to the counter wrong. The transom should lead even further aft (from the vertical). The result, had I done it, would have been a "shorter" transom with more of the quarterdeck bulwark planking above the level of the transom. If I measure the Hahn plans, the distance from Frame #28 (Mamoli bulkhead 8) to the aftermost point on the transom is 6-5/8". This is the length of the top quarterdeck bulwark plank. On my model that distance is 6-5/16". 5/16" too short! The only solution now (other than starting over!) is to cut down the height of the transom as I indicate in the drawing. I'll have to make some adjustments also when I fit the quarterdeck deck clamps.
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DocBlake got a reaction from KenW in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
I ran into another big problem, and it's the damn transom again! That structure has caused more grief than the rest of the build combined. When I completed the planking above the wales, I realized that my planking did not extend up high enough over the completed transom planking. The space would have been fitted with stanchions and a rail. I thought I had the angle of the transom to the counter correct when I glued it in place, but I was off a bit. The transom should have been angled a little more from the vertical than I left it. The result was that the planking of the quarterdeck bulwark is too "low" relative to the transom. No room for a rail! I've enclosed a photo of my transom and quarterdeck bulwark planking as well as one from Bob Hunt's practicum. You can easily see how much "taller" the quarterdeck bulwark planking is on Bob's model. I'm open to suggestions, but I think the only solution is to cut down the transom planking a bit like the photo with the blue line suggests. This will have to be carefully measured and drawn out to accommodate the stern carvings to come later. Any other solutions?
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DocBlake got a reaction from Martin W in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
All the sweep ports have been installed. I also installed the main rail and the planking above it on the port side. It's starting to look like a ship!
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DocBlake got a reaction from Martin W in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
I assembled the 14 oar sweep frames off the model. They will now be glued in place on the outer bulwark planking and then be faired along with the gun port frames and the kit bulkheads prior to adding the inner bulwark planking.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Martin W in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
I cut the oar sweeps into the bulkhead planking. They turned out OK despite being a little "off" from the Hahn plans.
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
I cut out all the false frames for the gun ports out of swiss pear. Next they get glued in place. I attached temporary planking along the top of the bulkheads to help with alignment. Rather than starting aft and moving forward, I'll begin amidships where the frames have no bevel. I'm deviating from the practicum by installing the after frame first, then the lower sill, and finally the forward frame for each port. Rather than cut all the sills to 3/8", I'll cut each one for a custom fit. My port cutouts may not be EXACTLY 3/8' WIDE
Dave
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
I'm beginning to work on framing the gun ports. I'm using swiss pear so the inner lining of the port matches the inner bulwark planking. The frames for the ports are actually a portion of the frames on the Hahn plans . They extend from the deck line to the top of the bulwark. I've cut out some templates and glued them to the swiss pear. I'll then cut them out, bevel the ones that need it and glue them in place. I did find an error in the practicum here, though. Frames #24 and #26 form gun port 9, the third from the transom. The practicum has you draw a line across the frame at a point where the frame is at deck level. It states that #24 should have the line drawn 15/32" below the top of the frame. The Hahn plans show that this distance should be 11/16". Otherwise all the other measurements are accurate. Next I cut out the frames and bevel as needed. Fortunately only a small portion of the most extreme frames fore and aft require a bevel. Most of the frames have no bevel to contend with.
Dave
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DocBlake got a reaction from Canute in Rattlesnake by DocBlake - Mamoli - 1/64 scale - Bob Hunt kit-bash log
Sorry for the misunderstanding. The photo above showing the gun port measurements is from Bob Hun't practicum. I'm not quite so far along. I did locate the gun ports and cut them into the second strake of planking. I used the cardboard template to locate a couple of the amidships ports, made sure all were the same height above the deck. I measured the location of the fore and aft ports rather than introducing the error that the 2D template would bring to the 3D model. All the port bottoms are the same distance above the subdeck - 9/32". The distance between ports, from the aft edge of a port to the forward edge of the one behind it is 1-1/8", measured along the curve of the hull.
Dave
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