harrypsk

First update in awhile! I completed both layers of planking. It really looked like a beginners hull so I went with a dark stain to complement the "novice plank lines." Just planked the deck. I didn't go with simulating tree nails, just used a pencil on plank edges to show some "caulking." I have been using tung oil to seal the deck. I really like the outcome so far.

Rad, I know you sent this to me as a private message, but I wanted to post it to the build log so everyone can benefit. Hello Harry Hi, I am slowly following your steps. Harry, I have checked my kit 5 times. I do not have part#57, the stern floor. Please tell me, did you find part#57 in your kit, or I have to cut one plank piece or something different? I am afraid that piece #57 was in a bag and entire bag is missing in my kit. I checked paper instructions in every small bag in the kit and I found out that there is no part#57. Do you remember anything about that piece when you were gluing things together? Next question. What is the best wood to fill the front of the hull? In kit attached instruction booklet, they are showing how planks are nailed to the ribs and front, parts #14. I can figure out from your description that it is really good idea to fill up the space between parts#14 and first rib. I was even thinking about filling up all the spaces between ribs. And the last thing, what it is second plank layer? I do not see anything in the booklet about 2 layers of planks. Please respond if you have a moment. As you can recognize easily from my questions, I am absolute beginner but I do not give up. Thanks and have a wonderful Valentines Day. Rad Part 57 is created from a piece of lumber stock. If you look on the List of Parts, you'll see that 57 is cut from 51. 51 is a bokapi strip that is 2x9x600. There are many many strips of timber if your kit, I would suggest you identify and label all of them as I showed in an earlier post. If not you're likely to cut parts from the wrong wood. For the frame fillers I used balsa wood block purchased from a local Michaels. That stuff is easy to shape. If you search the forums and tutorials you'll see plenty of references to this practice. The 2nd plank layer is optional and is composed of the paper thin strips. My kit had a single sheet of paper stating that they were included should you decide to do a second layer.

In order to get the proper flow or shape of the hull, you have to 'fair the hull.' That is if you just leave the ribs flat, it won't allow the planks to properly flow. This is best explained and illustrated in Simple Hull Planking Techniques for Beginners, pg. 8. You can download that from this site at http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php . I believe the 13 you're referring to is shown on N.1, big plans. That's just a crossbar piece that has no opening. The bulk head it's attached to is part 2, which should be from a laser cut sheet and should have the opening already there. Later in the plans you then drill the hole at a specific angle further into the supports. I hope I've answered your questions. I'm quite the beginner myself so I hope not to lead you astray!

Great guide. I'm in the middle of 2nd planking now. This is my first build, so I'm constantly adjusting my technique. Instead of trying to always use full length strips, I'm cutting them to various lengths depending on fit. So I'm spiling, tapering, and cutting.

I'm anxious to see how this turns out as I know there will be some glue spots to address on my hull's 2nd planking.

I've been experimenting with a filler technique on my 2nd layer planking. This may have been discussed elsewhere already. For small gaps or near the end of planks where the veneer has chipped, I'm adding a thin layer of glue, letting it sit a few seconds, and then I sand. The dust settles into the glue and I get color matched filler. So far so good.

Wow, excellent.

Here are some photos of recent 2nd layer work. I'm using a walnut sheet from HobbyMill for the wider planks on this layer. They are a little thicker than the 1mm veneer supplied with the kit but I'll be sanding them down even.

You can see some progress on layer 2 on the upper 1/3 of the ship. I am happy with the outcome so far. I just wish I would have understood the ramifications of a bluff bow on a first timer!

Some updates on the 2nd layer. So as many of you know the timber supplied with kits is not wide enough for spiling. I tried an experiment using the supplied veneer. I use the scotch tape method for capturing and transferring the curvature needed for spiling. I then glue three veneer pieces onto tape to make a wide plank. Then trace the curve and cut away! The result isn't the greatest, as you can see the seams where the pieces come together. I do have walnut veneer sheet that has a similar color to the bokapi. I'll likely use it and then use a stain to get the wood to match.

Fortunately this kit comes with a pile of thin planks for the 2nd layer. I'll be taking advantage of it.

Amazing work, very inspiring.

That technique worked out well, but I ended up scoring a Mantua plank tapering vice off Ebay for only $20. I put in a random bid and won it.