Hartron
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HMS Indefatigable 1794 by Nick 843 - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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USS Missouri (BB 63) - OcCre -1:200
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Scratch built WW1 Bomber by Lucius Molchany - FINISHED
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Nieuport 28 by GrandpaPhil - FINISHED - Roden - 1/32 - PLASTIC
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San Ildefonso by gsxdent59 - OcCre - 1/70
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Sovereign Of The Seas by firdajan - 1:96 - CARD
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Costa Passenger Coach by yvesvidal - OcCre - 1/32
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Saint Philippe 1693 by CRI-CRI - FINISHED - scale 1/72 - French warship from Lemineur monograph
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Hartron reacted to a post in a topic:
Saint Philippe 1693 by CRI-CRI - FINISHED - scale 1/72 - French warship from Lemineur monograph
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Tony Hunt reacted to a post in a topic:
La Palme by Tobias - 1:36 - POF
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Golden Hind by Daniel Filipe - Occre - 1:85
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La Palme by Tobias - 1:36 - POF
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La Palme by Tobias - 1:36 - POF
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La Palme by Tobias - 1:36 - POF
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La Palme by Tobias - 1:36 - POF
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La Palme by Tobias - 1:36 - POF
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La Palme by Tobias - 1:36 - POF
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La Palme by Tobias - 1:36 - POF
Hartron replied to Tobias's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1501 - 1750
According to Brian Lavery, the english used their way because it was stronger, the french used their way because the english way leaked more. -
mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
What to do about missing parts?
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The planks are probably longer than neccesary? Will the ends you cut away be enough to fill the missing area? My experience (partly by an occre kit, but also kits by three other manufacturers) is that in this hobby, you have to improvise.
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Baker reacted to a post in a topic:
Golden Hind by Daniel Filipe - Occre - 1:85
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The deck just above the bottom of the ship does not seem right to me. It would essentially make the hold unacessible. If we consider the ship without that deck, its guns are on its only deck, which seems right. The ship would certainy not be lower if it had another deck above the gun deck. Small ships often had just one deck, and the temptation to arm the highest deck seems to always have been very strong, so I see no reason to expect Golden Hinds highest deck was not armed.
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But cant steel wire wool be removed by a magnet? Or will it leave particles even if a magnet is moved over the surface?
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The planking on that model is probably the way it is because he planned to copper it, consequently, the run of the planks was not important. And teh point is not the run of the planks. That is independent of construction method. This way of bulding the model would work also if the planks was as they was done in the actual ship (except, of course, the planks could not enter the rabbet witht his construction, since there are no rabbet). (This is used on a lot of kits, but I had to search many logs before actually finding one which showed how it is done, most logs only show it in profile. I did not bother to find one which also showed historical planks, as the planks is not what we are discussing.)
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Stempost is from Brian Laverys book "Wooden Warship construction". But the arrow pointing to the part may point at another part than I think. What I mean (and what I think Lavery means) is the part which looks like a continuation of the keel, but curves upwards and forms the most forward part of the hull, at the ships centerline. Inserting this after planking seems to be a common way to construct models (not just Artesania Latinis, but also a lot of other companies.) This works with accuracey (it really does!) because the builder planks the hull with planks protruding out into the part which will later be filled by the stempost, then sands the end of the planks down until there is exactly enough space for the stempost, then glue the stempost into that space. My guess is that this is a better method for mediocre and bad modelbuilders, while using a rabbet probably is better for excellent model builders. This building log: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/26-san-ildefonso-by-sjors-finished-occre-wood-170/?tab=comments#comment-74 shows good pictures of the bow after planking without the stempost, and with the stempost fitted. (all relevant pictures is on the first page.)
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There will be an opening between the starboard one and the port one, I think? Then if he makes them long enought to reach a bit into that opening, he can file and cut them until the stempost fits between them. Artesania Latina generally does not use a rabbet, instead the keel and stem and sternpost fits between the planks, and are fitted after the planks.
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Make sure it is long enough (too long), and then cut and file a large enough opening for the stempost.
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Just place the first plank so it forms a nice curve. The important thing is that the two sides are similar, and that the curve looks right. If it looks right it is mostly right.
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The instructions for my old Revell Constitution (the instructions are from 1964), a big plastic model with fairly complete rigging, recomends using beeswax. The purpose of this is: "This will protect the tread from moisture when you have completed the assembly."
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