Richard Dunn
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Everything posted by Richard Dunn
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If I was to roughen 25mm of tube would it fully illuminate like a tube light? or would it just be a dimmer light with most being at the end? -
Thanks but I don't need to know how to model them, I am a professional 3d modeller. just how to simulate a tube of light inside
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I am hoping to start a disscussion on ways of building convincing working light types for larger scale models. I want to start with Flourescent tubes at 1/35, has anyone got any suggestions or experiance with making such thing? To be more specific is their a way to have a long skinny lightsource like a tube? or would it just have to be faked with the usual diodes?. Something along these lines
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The model will have some big updates soon and is well and truely on track for a launch date on the 14th July,, exactly 60 years to the day as the launch of the real ship on July 14th 1965 All running gear is installed, thrusters, props, motors, rudders etc. just a few planks to address and some glassing and sealer/primer and we are good to go
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- Union Steamship Company
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I have started a facebook page for this 2 days ago as well, as it covers the history of the ship as much as the model. Feel free to join, it's public. This is because I have been getting inundated with new info lately from facebook as its obviously easier to find for non modellers. https://www.facebook.com/groups/586060487227286
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This is resolved now thanks, I only need to repair this to the instruction standard, I worked on the real ships restoration so dont need to go to deep.
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Because as I said this is a repair not a build and its a 30 year old model built by a relative, I cant alter it.
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If anyone in Australia has these left over I need them for a repair I have been given after a parrot flew into it on the shelf(no case). 8 of the sails have split in half.
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I have been given this model to repair, it fell a long way off a shelf and require the rigging instruction to help. If anyone could provide this it would be awesome. EDIT I may have found them if someone could confirm this is all of it for me https://cuttysarkdrydock.wordpress.com/2011/09/23/the-cutty-sark-rigging-sheets/
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Nice build, and an interestng subject with lots of lovely drawings, the spirketting board being wider forward threw me on the deck plankng drawing.
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A slight delay in progress again, I have been asked to build another shell of this ship at same scale in a much simpler way so currenty framing that up while mine sits in our hallway in the house. Thank gawd for wide hallways....
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I had never thought of it like that, I guess in a way it is the same thing
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I stand corrected, wow, not the most elegant things. I forget she is a rebuild I was meaning the original boat in the B/W images.
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I am a stickler for accuracy, but even I would be putting in conventional Goosenecks or leaving them off I think.,I think you can guarantee it would not have been built with those...... Are there any old photos that could show what was there?
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I had a close look and I think they are custom made gooseneck vents as John said, made by someone who was unable to bend the pipe in the usual way, if you look at the close up you can see a connecting part. I blocked it out in 3d to illustrate the possible arrangment. The placement would also suggest this, but if you have a plan showing hull voids/tanks it would confirm it.
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Haha.. well this model is built from 480 of those. that is one of the more complex ones I admit
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Has anyone used PVA as a glazing mask? on acrylic Some framing started on Port aft mooring deck, these stringers above and below the openings were VERY hard to fit into place and keep flush with holes, I think I invented some new words during this. Once the Bulwark stays go in this should be quite stiff. A couple of renders of the framing in here as a whole. And just for the few hard core people actually reading this. here is the actual plan to compare to of the aft part of this, the forward part with stair well does not exist. knock yourself out. I know a lot of people are probably say " why are you going to all the trouble of framing all this up", well Its always been one of my life goals to have this on my model, it's very important to me, at at this scale I feel it's a given.
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- Union Steamship Company
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The most difficult plate in the whole model is on on one side. Deck removed to show mooring deck ready to be fitted with all the framing, the most complex bit of framing on the model, the rolled corner losses shape without the deck in lace, but will return once the framing is in place. there are 2 tranverse frames which I will fit but the longitudinals will be fitted to the deck so this can be framed out and painted before the deck gets glued down That concludes the non glazed plating on the port side upper hull and all steel decks, once sanded I will prime and weld bead.
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Thanks John, it looks better once weld beads are on.
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Some shots from this weekeneds run. I also did a long tutorial on how that plating is done in the appropriate section.
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I don't think many of us are, but I for one want to at least get close, it's a very useful skill. At least it's cheap to learn and if things go wrong you can have another go, also I like the idea of being able to work on top of a paper plan with a sheet of celluloid or glass so you have a guide. Thats why we need a movement to get her videos back she put up 10 years ago. I have spent nearly a day looking through the web for links to it ,mainly on Czech sites and sent private messages asking when I find contact links, but sadly she has not been in here since 2021
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I recently added Photoetching to my skillset, it took me 2 years to get around to it and I think i worked it up into something scary in my mind but it's really not, but for gingerbread at your scale I dont think it would cut it and you can't get the bevelled forms, everything has to be flat or inset Doris, if you are watching this can you please link us back to your vidoes on your incredible sculpting.
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I have added step by step images now from todays session
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I should add that if you are lucky enough to have a CNC and the ability to 3d model you can cut the plates on the CNC after the true shape is developed from the model, in Rhino use Squish or Unroll developable surface, I don't think Fusion has the ability, it only does sheet metal work or folds. just like the real ship, also the frame and structure lines can be marked on them with a pen attachment in the cnc. The cad side of things looks like this. Unless you have Rhino or Delftship Pro with plating add-on just mark it all on the hull as described above I wil also add the Shell Expansion for this ship model for those who have not seen one before. This plan is about as good as Shell Expansions get and it contains a lot of good information about joints, I am happy to provide the full res if you ask I should add if you do this you need to make sure your hull is exactly like the 3d model or the plates will not fit, because we use .5mm rod for seams we cannot have gaps over .4mm without having to fill. if you carve the hull from bread and butter that is even harder to acheive but with time it can be done just don't rush it. Some examples of carving accuracy.
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Re the gingerbread work, if you are savy with 3d modelling you could always resin print them or get them printed, thats what I was going to do for the 1/40 Cutty Sark Kit I made earlier this year but clay sculpting just looks nicer and it's just a case of forming it with small tools and water and then baking in the oven. just he says.....just... I imagine it takes a bit of practice...
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