Richard Dunn
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Everything posted by Richard Dunn
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Ok here some updates as I near completion of the frame work of the hull and superstructure. View from the bow, showing the areas remaining to be built up with B&B lamination, the fan room and winch pad openings can be seen as well in the deck panel. Simon H if you are watching, now you can see how difficult access to the thruster is. This is the Midship Stbd showing the fit of the deck panels and side shell, there is still the 2mm to go on the superstructure side at top and of course then all gets the .4mm plating over everything. The gangway door and tonnage openings recess are clear here in side of hull. The missing bits on the puzzle joints on deck is just because the part did not quite fit on the CNC, but not wasting ply. This shows the incomplete fitted out smoke room space and the hatch to access engines in the middle. The stern fully framed and mooring decks fitted ready for plating in. In regard to access of the rudder mechanism through the stern door you can see the rudder penetration that I am pointing to. This shows the rubust structure that surrounds the "Lid"of the ship to keep it all straight. And finally the Lid being assembled on my other bench. The large arc shaped parts leaning against wall are the bridge floor and ceiling
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Will post images tomorrow but am at step 14 (see page 2) right now
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Sorry guys I missed the comments, yes that is the model boat club jetty, they have a clubhouse just out of shot of that image, no swimming, its pretty yuk This weekend cladding will commence frame is complete!!, Xmas has gone from assembly to plating of model. cant wait for that stage as it will look like a ship then.
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Thanks Egilman So I will go into a bit more about what going to be covered, not all on the same model and indeed not even on full models but I might pull up some ones already done to demonstrate. I will however be going over the creation of a very well known hull that has about as many undesirable aspects that you can hope for. No as built plans, No printed as designed lines. Tapering planking thickness from garboard to sheer That being the Cutty Sark, it is a very very simple hull to model and has these unknowns to it that we can now solve due to drawings from the past and data collected from the restoration along with about 1300 photos , some I took while over on it and clearly illustrate the unknown aspects. So it will be a case of examining the midship section against the 5-6 that exist and verifying the correct one against photos of the frames and the scan and then using the correct lines to surface the hull and again fitting that faired against the scan. A lot of lines you see that look correct are not, as no doubt lots of people know already, and its not until you setup frames and start to bevel or plank you realise this and have to add/remove material from them and still get a lumpy hull, this will remove all of this and give you perfect lines and results every time, and the ability to develop frames anywhere you want at any thickness of material and be able to cut them as accurately as your woodwork skills allow. I have done this all before for work so it should be straight forward this time. The other aspects will be things like Chine hull creation with no joins so it can be edited as one surface, How to create a lines plan when you have no body plan. Planking layout, carvel and clinker Reading Shell Expansions and how to reconstruct in 3d space Developable and non developable surfaces and how to get true shape for panels How to section models with dynamic sections that update as you edit the hull fairing curves and surfaces Working with images in 3d space How to get heights and measurements of fittings and structure from photos accurately. How to get CAD onto your wood accurately and easily But if you have anything you want covered, even if you don't have cad skills I will see if I can answer it. Although you don't need 3d skills to watch this it will make more sense if you do but you will absolutely want to know how to read plans and lines properly, terms like rise of floor, deadrise, tumblehome, perpendiculars, strakes etc will not be covered and assumed a modeller will know this stuff already. I will probably end up doing this at night or early morning so will be half asleep. hence why I have to do this at Xmas so I don't compromise my day job by being too tired.
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Yes I have used Orca but to be honest the only feature as a modeller that I really need from it is the updating sections, the rest of it is largely already part of Rhino it's just the tools are all put into the ORCA toolbar to make it easy. It is a great tool but for that one function it's too expensive and given this is targeting hobbyists, I doubt they will buy a plugin that cost more than Rhino itself does. I used to do Naval Architecture as a career as well building the prototypes to the client brief and nailing the look/functionality of the vessel prior to Lloyds involvement and even I would not buy it for that amount, its just too high priced for one function( for me that's the case) luckily my employers used to have that covered anyway but yes it's great. I will be showing a free alternative way of doing it.
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Over the last few months I have been asked to do some training on how to take lines plans and take them to the point in 3d that sections can be checked, new frames cut, the plan can be checked and corrected for fairness and even things like planking and plating developed. I will be covering a lot more than this to, and will attempt to answer questions on the fly I am based in Australia so will try to make a time that suits as many as possible, but will record the lessons as well I am a professional 3d artist and qualified trainer with many years in marine modelling, not so much the math side of Naval Architecture but the creation of hull forms in 3d from old plans or scan data, even how to make a lines plan from deck views and profiles with no body plan. I will be running a free live workshop over the Xmas break using Zoom. 23rd Dec starting at 6.00am Brisbane time 4-5 hours This post is to allow people to ask questions about the workshop and express interest so I can gauge numbers. This post is not for discussion of other software if that is your goal I suggest starting a new topic, I will be showing the industry standard and it is the standard for good reason. I ask that you please keep this to questions about content and interest only thanks. I will be using the standard software for this work which is Rhinoceros 3D and although it is the ideal tool the lessons can be ported to other applications. This workshop will be using fairly basic concepts and not be over complicated, but I would suggest you are familiar with working in 3d in some way however if you want to learn this later by all means come along and see how it’s done and then decide later if it’s something to learn for you. Some of the topics covered include Re-drawing lines accurately Fairing curves and surfaces Build a usable hull surface that can be used to build an accurate model Develop frames, built up, ring and bulkhead Working with scan data How to determine number of frames, How to know if lines are accurate How to develop planking and tapers in advance How to get this data onto your wood accurately It will be several hours long with breaks A couple of members have already started practicing for this workshop I believe I will add more info as questions arise.
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Re the trailer, going to get a Kayak trailer modified or a custom kayak one made to carry case, but will make it so it can also carry a kayak and probably one of those foldable trailers to so it takes up less room to store.
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Oh and my local pond where it will sail.
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We can still buy lead ingots here I know that much, half the weight balance will be batteries.
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Yep custom trailer. Local Model club has a huge lake and only 2 kilometers away from home down quiet road. ballasted after water entry and displaced weight is 195kgs
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Progress, main framework complete, time for secondary frames and stringers now. hull stringers shown here on Stbd side are not pushed home, only sitting on to make sure I have them all. Plenty of hand room at stern door for working on rudder assembly
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Awesome Kevin... And just for you here is a present to remind you.
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@Kevin Yeah I get that all the time, "will you see it on the water" probably not but I am doing this as a museum quality model that happens to run. there is a good chance it will get bought and displayed somewhere given its fame, not that I am counting on it.
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Progress Smokeroom area Glueblocks on joints Lid longitudinals ready
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Thanks Keith Well this weekend I glued all the frames in and got the main longitudinal installed into the hull as well. they were a mission to get in so I opted to install dry and use glue blocks to fix in position, they are plenty strong enough and remember them from my furniture days when making staircases, a good glue block will not leg you down. So well on the way, I have also assembled and glued all the other longitudinal bulkheads that make up the lid section as well, so will have that main frame done in another day work. the hull is getting very rigid now and just have to make sure I install any remining stringers and such with an aluminium section clamped on so I keep everything straight. I think another 3-4 full days work I will be cladding hull sides and decks. I am interested in hearing from anyone who has done full on detail of model surfaces before or if someone knows of a post. I have said this before but I plan on having the weld seam, tin canning and steel texture on the mode, most is done with paint. basically you apply a suitable primer to the plates which are .4mm ply sand with fingers between the frame lines to create subtle depressions, doing this on each plate before it goes on means it should vary per plate and look natural, then apply another coat and stipple it roughly. after its dry, sand it flat but leave the lowest points to give the pitted effect, I got this from military modeller who uses the effect on tanks, then glue on the plate and one a few are on glue the .5mm round styrene weld bead in place. the bead is softened with glue and run over with a fine serrated roller to give the bead effect, then all that requires to be done is primer touch-up along weld beads. and painted. Here is the effect this guys work in suberb!. I am interested in people thoughts with this, I have never done it but really keen to see what people think. Its a bit of work to prep each plate, probably 10mins per plate to paint and sand twice, but I think at 1/35 it will look good, I am not a fan of nice smooth hulls on larger scales, Wahine had a very distinct tin canning effect and I think it needs to be there if only subtle. I have attached a hi res shot that shows the effect on her hull.
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Oh Kevin I have sorted out the Cutty Sark image library to, 1300 images. I just need an email from whoever wants them so I can give permission and access in Dropbox to those people. Mojofilter if you are watching I am still waiting for your email to.
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I am one happy son of a you know what. I test fitted a hull panel today ,actually 3 consecutive panels and an adjacent deck panel and it fitted better than I could have hoped for. I also glued the first pair of longitudinal bulkheads together against a straight edge, this weekend will be a big one with main structure probably done. Look at that fit!! Notice the fit of the bottom edge against the B&B part. Rhino's True shape development tools really do work thank god. Part of Forecastle deck also test fitted First Longitudinal BHD's glued Now I am getting excited!!
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I have a confession to make, my joints are all a bit tight, I did offset the cuts a tiny bit to allow for this but not enough, live and learn but yeah every joint has had to be filed a bit to get it together and that has taken a lot longer to put together than it should , in saying that I reckon by 3 weeks from now the main structure will be done and ready to start cladding in 2mm ply. I allowed -.050 reduction but realistically I should have allowed more like .2mm The piles of parts on my bench are getting smaller and smaller and the sheets of parts less and less. but at least it all goes together, I have missed a few mortises and joints that I have had to jump onto the scroll saw to do.
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Most full frames up now and starting to fit the sections of longitudinals before they get glued together, we don't want any tight troublesome joints when trying to drop in a 3m long part
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Thanks @Haze Gray It's a Stepcraft 840 CNC with 2mm cutter, not'a laser, this will carve as well, not a fan of lasers. I also build Acoustic, Classical and Jazz guitars so wanted this for both jobs I can carve my 230mm lifeboats hulls and internal plugs for example and use them to vacuum form them from 1mm styrene which is what I am going to do. Picture of it on first page of blog. @Yvesvidal I have kept the structure as simple as it can be , because the covering is only 2mm I have to make the framework denser to avoid buckling, at the same time as keep the topsides lightweight. @Imagna The other hull is the first attempt at this that I talk about at start of the blog, I have not disposed of it yet as I have to salvage brass work from it.
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Thanks Hof Well today was a milestone, I completed step 1 and started step 2 erection of main frames. The ones with the tenons driven home are in, 2 are just sitting there at the moment. but once all the frames are in things will get interesting, I was planning on doing this at Xmas so ahead of schedule. The importance of accurately shaping the top of the bread and butter portion can't be overstated, if it's out it will throw out everything, so I had to check the heights from the base board at every frame and get it within .5mm and lower, never higher if it's not spot on, that way I can unscrew the foundation plate a tad if it needs to come up a bit later, the foundation pieces on the top edge of the bread and Butter are not glued down of course so the whole top sides can be removed from lower once built to a point where it is strong and rigid and it can be removed and the hull carved and equipment can be fitted unencumbered, then it will be glued down. The above picture also has the first layer of the bow block laminations in place.
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Love your model Keith, beautiful work, beautiful. So today while cutting a few more sheets I decided to try some joints, I was nervous about this but as you can see they are working well This will require some means of pushing down onto frame because even though tight we have this. The Puzzle joints to join panels are fine. Dry fitted and staying together on it's own. It will just need to be sandwiched between a couple of cauls and greaseproof paper to keep it flat.
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How are you going Egilman?
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Last night I cut the last sheet of structural parts, all that remains now is the tedious task of removing the parts from the sheets with a Dremel and sawblade and sanding and labelling the nearly 240 parts. I think I will be starting to assemble soon. I am considering a new approach to gluing, I found a product I used as a kid from Epiglass called Everdure which is an epoxy 2 part product that you thin with thinners and apply coats with less thinner as coats progress, this has the effect of turning the wood into plastic impregnating the wood right through, I am thinking that if I assemble the frame work (dry) and then do that it will also bond through capillary action just playing with the idea at the moment, Everdure may not have any bonding ability though..
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Try out the curve boolean tool...its a life saver. Going to be a bit quiet this week as I start a new job as lead artist and have a lot to absorb initially.
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