Stevinne

The railings are on, and I'm not displeased with how they turned out. I also put together the stand, which gave me a chance to give her a place to rest while I cleaned up the workspace. I also painted some wood to make the black stripes that will adorn the beakhead. I feel like I'm making progress.

Been adding railings.
I'm happy with the height of the focsle railings.
I spent a lot of time trying to figure out what to do about the poop railings - whether I should end them at the end of the poop deck or extend them to the end of the outer planking. I decided to do the later, after viewing Ondras' amazing build log. He really has set the bar for me. Though I'm having trouble clearing it, he does supply inspiration and things to think about.
After installing the poop railing, I still feel it's about 1mm too high. I based the height on my little figure of Sir Francis Drake, who has been supervising construction. While the rail seems to fit Sir Francis just right, it looks a little too high for me. Also, the photo points out a gap to the support posts I hadn't noticed.
 

A little more work. Trying to get the run of bulwarks right. Stained the deck with "Bright Pecan." I thought it would be lighter, but I'm sort of happy with it. Also ordered a reference book and also "Sovereigns of the Sea," just because it sounded interesting. The "Sovereigns" book was used and came with an interesting book mark tucked inside.

Some progress with gratings. One thing I hadn't thought about is how much of the frames show through the openings. The break in the grating on the forward starboard side of the quarter deck will host a bitt, but if you look closely, the frame takes up much of the space and will be visible. I don't think I can remove the cross piece, as it supports the deck I probably can trim the white frame sections a little further back, but might settle for staining them a darker, less noticeable color. Also, I removed the molding at the front of the poop cabin as I realized that the opening I left for the door, while it fit perfectly, would have had the door jamming up against the pilot house in real life. I'm going to move the door a few millimeters over to starboard and redo the molding.
 

Moving on to the gratings. On the plus side, the kit provides a lot of grating material. On the minus side, it's probably the worst grating material I've encountered, with lots of the pieces bent or broken and others really badly cut with lots of whiskers and half-done cutouts making it difficult. I'm happy Mamoli is under different management since I purchased this kit, because while I really like the subject, the materials on this one definitely have a bottom-of-the-barrel vibe about them.

Started painting the doors and windows and noticed something odd. While most everything is cast white metal, the small window frame at the bottom is black plastic. I'm not sure what is the reason for the change. My guess, with the paucity of spare wood that came with this kit, is that Mamoli was cutting corners where ever they could at the time I purchased it. I also decided to paint the gilded pieces, which aren't shown here. Good thing I did. As I started painting, I noticed that on many of the pieces the gilding was unevenly applied with the white metal showing through in spots. I'm debating whether or not to paint the doors tan/black to match the decorations on the ship or just leave the brown. I'll probably try one, see how it looks and then make a decision. My plan is to highlight the scroll work on the now brown gilded pieces in white or red to add a little color. 

Making progress. I've completed the decorative strips, cap rails and railings over the cabins. I've ordered some very thin strips of walnut from Model Expo and am considering adding some trim around the edges of the decorative strips to maybe cover up that black line. I've experimented on the leftover bits of cardboard to see if I could sand or use colored marker to cover the black line, but I haven't been happy with the results. I'm currently sanding the stem piece to the figurehead to slide on. I'm happy I thought to test fit the figurehead before I got too involved in installing the beakhead, since the opening on the figurehead is considerably narrower than the stempiece. I've been sanding intermittently all morning and am finally beginning to see some progress. I do plan on painting the lion before he takes his place. 
 

Added some decorations to the hull. I was concerned about getting the decorative strips to line up, but it actually was easier (at least on this side) than I had anticipated. The vertical stripes at the very rear are actually strips of 4mm wood, which allows some wiggle room about the the card positioning. Thanks to Aon for advice on what glue to use. I still need to add caprails and to remove the strips across the gunports in the waist, as well as some decorations for focsle.

Been adding wales and cutting the upper gunports. I haven't decided yet if I'm going to paint below the waterline white. I want to see what she looks like once I add the decorative strips and she's a bit more colorful. I also have to do more sanding on the gunport edges and cut the sections of wale that runs across the top. But I want to keep them in place for the time being to provide support to bulwark as I work.

More progress on the deck planking. Have to start on the little deck near the beakhead. The planks look a little overscale to me.

Getting ready to plank the deck. The first step is removing the supports from the frames and then making sure the stubs are flush with the false deck. I found my sprue cutter did a good job clipping the wood nearly flush and then I used some chisels of various head shapes to remove whatever wood was left. I was happy that I took extra pains when installing the hull planking to ensure no glue was anywhere near the supports, since when snipping them they easily came away from the planks.

More work on the starboard side. For some reason, I've found planking this ship to be a real chore. Happy that most of it seems done. I've also noticed that most of the photos I shoot for this log seem to come in upside down. I eventually figured out that's because I'm left-handed, so I use the shutter button on the left side. When I flip the phone and take pictures with the shutter button on the right side, the photos come in right-side up. 

I haven't watched any of his videos, but it sounds like I should. I haven't encountered any issues with shrinkage yet - at least with the second layer, but that could just be luck. I have had fit issues with my first run of planks, but I've always attributed that to my lack of skill with an Xacto knife and pencil. Maybe there was more to it than that. Thanks for the heads-up.  

Unfortunately, I'm not planking anything right now. I usually soak my second layer wood before working with it, because I feel it makes it easier to cut and to also to bend. My plank shaper is basically a soldering iron with a big metal bulb in place of the soldering point. I got it on Model Expo many years ago. It came with a wooden jig for bending planks off the ship, but I usually don't use it.  When placing the second plank I apply the glue while the wood is still wet and then run the heated bulb back and forth over it until everything dries. I find it forms a solid bond. 

I usually use a combination of CA and carpenter's glue on the second planking. I use a small amount of ca at points to start the attachment, then a run of carpenter's glue. I run my plank shaper over the glued section once it's in place - it speeds up the drying process. Then I will use another dot of ca, some more carpenter's glue and continue the run. I find that for me, this works well, especially when I am trying to line up the planks along the curves of the bow and stern. One issue I find with CA and the second-layer is that if you get any spillover onto the exterior, it is very difficult to remove without staining the wood.
 

Thanks @flying_dutchman2 and @Baker.
 
My son just sent his photographic interpretation of my pinas-wreck:

Hope you like it as much as I do...

someone missed the crew:
 

I haven't watched any of his videos, but it sounds like I should. I haven't encountered any issues with shrinkage yet - at least with the second layer, but that could just be luck. I have had fit issues with my first run of planks, but I've always attributed that to my lack of skill with an Xacto knife and pencil. Maybe there was more to it than that. Thanks for the heads-up.  

I haven't watched any of his videos, but it sounds like I should. I haven't encountered any issues with shrinkage yet - at least with the second layer, but that could just be luck. I have had fit issues with my first run of planks, but I've always attributed that to my lack of skill with an Xacto knife and pencil. Maybe there was more to it than that. Thanks for the heads-up.  

I usually use a combination of CA and carpenter's glue on the second planking. I use a small amount of ca at points to start the attachment, then a run of carpenter's glue. I run my plank shaper over the glued section once it's in place - it speeds up the drying process. Then I will use another dot of ca, some more carpenter's glue and continue the run. I find that for me, this works well, especially when I am trying to line up the planks along the curves of the bow and stern. One issue I find with CA and the second-layer is that if you get any spillover onto the exterior, it is very difficult to remove without staining the wood.
 

Chuck, Thanks for the quick and reasoned response. I hadn't realized they had been asked to stop and kept doing it nonetheless. Makes a lot more sense now.

Working on the remaining 12 pounder guns for boat decks and bridge super structures, eight in total, the four on the boat deck l used the metal etch gun shields from my second set here the remaining four l made the gun shields from paper, seemed to work quite well 👍 won’t dwell on this to much we have all seen these guns built now so shall just show photos of production 👍

Case Frame
 
The case frame members are made of 1/2” square Cherry with grooves cut with the table saw.  Grooves are centered on the face of the member and 1/8” deep.  The posts and top pane frame members have two grooves.  The bottom members one.
 

 
The bottom members have tenons cut to fit the groove.  The Burns saw is setup to cut the tenons.  Joints will be pin nailed.
 

 
The post sits on the base top and is supported on two sides by the base moulding.  
 

 
The top panel has mitre corners, that will be glued and supported with metal corner braces.  There is a cross piece across the middle.
 

 
Here the frame is dry fitted.  Next is cutting the Lexan panes.  Happy Holidays!
 


 
 

Base Frame
 
Milled the frame components from 4/4 rough Cherry.  Base moulding is 1 7/8” high, just under 1” thick.  Routed a Roman Ogee edge on the router table.  Mitre cuts were made on the table saw with an Incra fence.
 

 
Glued up the frame, square makes sure of the alignment.
 

 
Case frame will be made from 1/2” square stock.  Here is the table saw setup to cut the stock from the rough.  This picture shows cutting the 1/8” deep groove for the Lexan.
 

 
Stacked up the case components against the base moulding, 1/2” square strip on bottom under 2 short blocks representing the base, and 1/2” square grooved strip on top representing the case frame above the base.  Lucked out, stack is flush with top of base moulding.
 

 
Under the base will be 4 blocks screwed to the moulding with holes to allow screws into the base.  There are also 4 corner blocks.
 

 
To remove the tool marks, sanded the frame with a random orbital sander - 220 grit.   As before, finished the Base Frame with Howards Feed and Wax Oil and Conditioner,  Beeswax and Orange Oil.  Added felt pads to corner bottoms.
 
Here’s the model in the frame.
 


 
 
 
 
 

FINISHED!
 
Took a bit longer than anticipated but finishing the build was important to me. I can be a bit like a hummingbird with my hobby projects.
 
I didn't take pictures of the rigging process. I found the rigging frustrating. I can't imagine trying something more complex rigging-wise for quite some time. Some of the challenges are non-negotiable--like my eyesight--but having better tools and materials would probably help. I used string which I had on hand but I couldn't tell that it was any different than what was provided in the kit. Plus, mine was on a spool rather than wrapped around a card and had less kinks in it. However, my string is nylon and I found that knots slipped too easily and the thread always wanted to resume its curl. Basically, it was difficult to manipulate. I also found that the thread unraveled if I looked at it cross-eyed and once I clipped an end the thread tended to fray.
 
Tool wise... I've only got one pair of tweezers small enough for this work so last night I found myself looking at surgical needle holders on-line. I think those will help. I also need a better way to cut the string. I have a little pair of squeeze scissors but unless the string is under tension they tend to chew through the string rather than cut it. Overall, I think my rigging is pretty rough. Especially the lines attaching the sail to the spar. I keep telling myself that this is a learning project and I learned a lot!
 
What I did find very helpful is that I've got two LED lights on flex-stands that stick out over the work surface. Having the ability to hang lines from the light supports proved beneficial. I could even cut a number of lines and drag the ends through CA then drape the lines over the lights to let them dry. It kept them out of the way until needed. Same thing for my 'helping hands' with alligator clips. Just being able to keep tension on the lines by clipping them with the alligators and setting the 'hands' off to the side was helpful.
 
Anyway. I'm calling this one finished. Overall, I'm pretty happy with it. It's been a (mostly) enjoyable voyage. I'd recommend this kit to others at a beginning level. I might even see if I can find some 1/72 scale Vikings to crew her!