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Ab Hoving

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  1. Very nice thread. I like the research, knowing how hard it is to get trustworthy information. Making changes to a model under construction is only proof for a serious attitude towards historical reality.
  2. I like this project very much. Great research, nice building, amazing result. Congratulations.
  3. Maybe I can shed some light on this. The book 'The ships of Abel Tasman' contains two draughts, one of the yacht Heemskerck and the other of the fluit Zeehaen. The book deals with the process of designing these two reconstructions and tells the story of Abel Tasman's travels in 1642. Published by Verloren. https://verloren.nl/boeken/2086/253/168/maritiem-en-waterstaat/the-ships-of-abel-tasman The book '17th century Dutch Merchant ships' contains the draughts of many characteristic vessels of the Dutch merchant fleet, amongst which several fluits. One of them is the Zeehaen. Published
  4. If you are looking for material for sails this address may be the solution for your you: Whaleys (Bradford) located at Harris Court, Great Horton, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD7 4EQ in England. E-mailaddress: info@whaleysltd.co.uk. For my purposes the best material to work with appeared to be 'voile cotton', but also 'Navara Fine Lawn White' works splendidly for my 1/77 scale. For the bigger scales there is also 'Poplin cotton shirting neroli white'. Prices are here. The material can very well be treated with starch and dried as wanted with a hair-dryer:
  5. A former colleague at the Rijksmuseum, Susan Meyer, suggested i should use 'voile cotton' for sails and she gave me a piece, which I used for this ship, with the result shown here-fore. She also mentioned the name of an English company which was most helpful in finding the right material after a sample of the wanted textile was sent to them. It is a remarkable company, called Whaleys (Bradford) located at Harris Court, Great Horton, Bradford, West Yorkshire, BD7 4EQ in England. I sent them a sample of the very fine cotton I used until my stock (which existed of a sort of textile, I removed fro
  6. More enthusiasm than I anticipated, thank you very much. It's just pottery, little more. Wefalck: the scale is 1/77 and the sails were simply sprayed with a spray can of starch your mother probably used while ironing the sheets. Her hairdryer did the rest (together with some pushing and pulling of course). 'Hans' We can discuss some ins and outs for the kits you sell, if you like. GrandpaPhil: Your own efforts with paper are not too bad either... Druxey: I'm flattered being told that by you. You are not particularly from the easy approach like I
  7. Just a note that I finished the man-of-war. These are the results: Not very spectacular from the side view. The quarter views are OK though. And the sails look like sails. I'm a happy man. Ab
  8. OK Bruce, here it comes: Start a new project Insert measurements and control point. Choose front view wireframe Open body plans and find your chosen draught Click to select your draught to become yellow. Click and drag the draught to the centerline and base line. Click and drag the top right corner of the draught for the right dimensions. Click and repeat the last step until a perfect fit it reached Click on image red arrow and control net black arrow. Now you can drag the control net points until the f
  9. Patience Bruce, Rene is preparing another tutorial. Ab
  10. Just my 50 cents.... I like sails on models. They add expression and function. But if it is done, it has to be done well, as several of the shown examples clearly demonstrate. Too many people make yards without sails hoisted to the tops of the topmasts. I hate that. No sailor will ever take the trouble of hoisting an empty yard. Still, if a museum ship like the Constitution is modelled, or a navy board model is done, the absence of sails is right and logical. I always make sails on my models, furled or not. But if added, to my opinion they should express the conditions under which th
  11. I did try SilkSpan, thank you Druxey. You are absolutely right as for the furled sails, as you clearly prove with your pictures. For hoisted sails I think it gives a too 'boardy' result. It may work for others, but I want a different look. The material I found seems to answer my needs, we will see how it all develops.
  12. It has been a while since we had the short conversation about the material to choose for natural looking sails. I jumped into several experiments after wefalcks suggestion of using paper for sails and I managed to get all the paper I needed. However, I never succeeded in creating the result I was looking for. So I went on searching for the right kind of textile. Thanks to one of my former collegues at the museum I managed to get some stuff called 'voile cotton' that answered my needs. Since the hull of the man-of-war I referred to earlier in the thread was finished, I decided to try my ha
  13. Don't you think it would be wise to mark the lines of the bottom, the bilges and the lower wale on the hull before applying any strakes? That way you can monitor the various widths of the planking to avoid nasty corrections higher up the hull. The bottom is roughly 2/3 of the total width, the top of the bilges were mostly reached with three (sometimes 4) strakes. The position of the lower wale is there already, but has to be fine-tuned to ensure a fluent line. This is essential!
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