Barbossa

Thanks so much Pete, appreciate it. I'm glad she is as well; much easier to cope with our own tribulations than those of our children.
 
  Foremast today - pretty much the same process as the Mizzen of course, except the cheeks are a bit longer. Granted, the cheeks here are not quite as pronounced as they probably should be according to the TFFM, but I'm still ok with them.  I'll likely make them more pronounced for the main, while still trying to maintain some consistency.
 
   The only other thing worth nothing here is that with these bibs I've etched out and scored the pattern in which they would have been put together rather than one solid piece.  Once again the woolding loops are manila folder strips wrapped twice around the mast. I also didn't mention with the mizzen that I tacked in some nails to give it a nice authenticity detail. 
 
  
 
  
 
  
 

 
 

Got to work on the MIzzen mast.  Although I know that the masts are all measured by the Main (and thanks again to BE and others for doing the math for the rest of us from Steel's work), I wanted to start with the Mizzen because it's a bit easier and I want to get my feet wet again.
 
    I started with the measurements and diagrams in the previous post and lathed out the mizzen then added the cheeks and the bibs. 
 
     
 
After adding the two 'filler' sides to the masthead above the bibs, I used sliced electricians tape to simulate the iron hoops that hold the masthead pieces together.  Then I added slim strips as the vertically placed battens.
 
  
 
Cross trees and trestle trees are added then I simulated the hoops for the wooldings by using a manilla folder cut into a strip then painted. 
 
  
 
   The woolding itself is my homemade rope using the famous Syren Rope Rocket. This particular rope is .045mm made from 4 doubled up strands of 120 mara thread.  Going to have to even out that tiny lump there that I didn't notice until the macro shot...   Also, they're difficult to see here, but the bolsters are added by rounding one edge of a small square strip and mounting them on each side where the shrouds will extend down to the deadeyes.

I've finished the 2nd planking of the port side. I was hoping not to need any stealers, but it turned out that one was required. If the kit had come with wider material for the garboard (or I had matching wood available), then I could have done the planking stealer free. Either way it's looking good to me.

Post One Hundred and Fifty- seven
 
Mast Making.
Starting with the Mainmast:-
For the reduced height masts I firstly need to work out the relative positions of the wooldings, iron bands, and the point where the side cheeks and front fish terminate.

3967
I replaced the Pear laser cut cheeks and fish with Boxwood versions to better match the Ramin masts.
 
The iron bands need to be fitted before the cheeks are put into place. With a 12mm ø mast my go to use of heat shrink tubing will not work, so it’s back to thin strips of black card.
 
Once the cheeks are fitted the remaining iron bands need to be applied, they sit beneath the Front fish. I work the bands so that the join will also be beneath the Fish.

3970
The Fish is then fitted

3972

3973

3974

3976

3977
The saddle for the Driver Boom was also replaced with a Boxwood version.

3978

3971
The woolding remains to be done, but I am out of the correct line sizes.
 
B.E.
12/03/2024
 

Prior to staring the Main mast I went back and added a detail to the foremast that I'd forgotten - the pinning along the cheeks.  It's an easy addition, though obviously takes a bit of time.  This is also the reason I always save the ends of pins/nails that I clip off.  This way I can sharpen an end, sand the backside, then poke them in where needed (after pre-drilling of course).
 
 

 
There isn't too much detail to go into for the Main, as it is almost identical to the Foremast. I scaled it out the same as the rest; I did however make the cheeks a little more pronounced as I said I would and am happy with results. The good news - it's also not so different as so stand out greatly when you see all the masts set in place.
 
 
 
 
 

 

The stage of construction and equipment of the permanent hull of the model has been completed.
I am satisfied with the effect. About 600 hours of work

Thank you Bug, glad to see work has restarted on your Pegasus.👍
 
Post One Hundred and Fifty- five
 
I continued to fit the Port side billboards and linings.

3939

3936

3937
I think I have made a better job of the Port side, so off came the starboard side for a re-fit.

3941
Starboard side re-done, happier now.

3942
I have also taken the opportunity to replace the bow port lid and add double lifting lanyards.

3852
Small sections of telephone wire sleeving are used to represent  the port lanyard tubes, but they did need drilling through to take the 0.30mm line which was stiffened with ca for the purpose.

3932
Another small job is to add the rudder chains. I used some Caldercraft Brass chain, 18 links /per inch.
I will get around to trimming them at some point.
 
B.E.
08/03/2024
 
 

Further planking of the rear castle.
I started with the part that was planked according to the clinker build method. These planks were not sawn but made from tree trunks that were split. length of the planks no longer than 2.70 meters
The first of these planks was tapered.

Above the tapered plank it is marked how high the upper plank may be

Further planking

And then there was a week's holiday in the sun, which was put to good use doing research .

Back home and continue planking. The intention is to have 6 layers of clinker build, in total I should end up with 9. Above that there will be shields.

That's why I first have to place the 2 dales, which determine the correct location of the upper deck in the rear castle

English lesson :
Dale.. old English word. The intention of these two dales is to drain the pumped water from the hold outside.
And if you have to pee....Do it in the dale (so their 2nd name : pisdale... 😳)

Hello everyone.
 
   I realize it's been quite some time.  I appreciate folks looking into the build as well as those who've reached out.  By way of short explanation - I'm doing well.  Sometimes (especially when you have four grown children) life simply gets in the way of one's hobbies. I won't go into detail of course; but my oldest daughter (now 25 yrs old) survived a serious sexual assault nearly two years ago since I last posted. Needless to say, it sent our family on a much different trajectory than any of us anticipated leaving things like hobbies much less of a priority than taking care of one another. She has overcome much and is well now.  
    After many months of walking by my shipyard as it collected dust, I'm once again feeling the pull to work in there again; so soon I'll have some more Peg updates. 
 
Thanks again - and I'm enjoying catching up on some of the cool projects that have happened during my absence. 
    

Very strong bending after heating over a gas burner helped.

The last guns!!! I added work by securing the cannon to the side with ropes. Well, without that, it's too much of a simplification. I bent the barrels after heating them with a gas torch. Blocks used: 2 mm.

I've had time to smooth out the first layer of planking and started to attach the second layer. The sheer has been adjusted as well - I find this type of ship to be very gracefully designed.

Log #72: Tying Off Lines
Thank you to everyone for stopping by and for all the likes.
 
First off I would like to show off the new tool I made. I discovered that machine sewing needles are better than hand ones for splicing as the hole is closer to the point. So I just made some handles out of spare wood I had lying around. I used standard needles in sizes 70 and 90. The hole on the 70 is not big enough to get whole ropes though, but once you split apart the strands it works better as it is about 0.25mm thinner than the size 90 one. The size 90 one is pictured below.

With all the principal lines in place for the boom and gaff, the next step is to tie them all off. I started with the boom tackle as this one was obvious and has no impact on other lines. I decided to leave a bunch of extra rope in a loose coil after tying it off on the cleat. So step one was to cut the line short and super glue the end to the deck.

I then separately made the coil. I am still playing with the method for making these and will probably give a more detailed explanation of what I do when I am confident I like my process.

For the backstays I belayed them to cleats on the rail and then wrapped extra rope around the base of the block.

I continue to play around with the best way to secure hooks to blocks and I have a new method I am trying out. I arrange the line similar to the previous way of doing it, but I splice the ends into each other and secure it in place with fabric glue.

You can see the end result below seems to look less bulky than my previous attempts.

For the boom toping lift, Goodwin indicates this should be belayed to a pair of single blocks hooked on to the starboard channel. I did a bunch of thinking at this point as I am planning on including the topgalant stays and so wanted to make sure that they would have a place to belay to. In the end I secured the fall to base of the lower block, but then hung the extra on the nearest shroud cleat.

You can see how I used the eyebolt inbetween the last shroud and the standing backstay to leave the sternmost one for the topgallant backstay. My rope coil was not the best, but it looked close enough that I decided to chalk it up as a learning experience. Also being behind the shrouds it is not really that visible.
And that brings us up to date. Next I need to secure the inner and outer ties for the gaff and then I will move on to setting up the topgallant.

Hello everyone!
 
Well....after 40 years of work, I retired 2 years ago and have been trying to find things to do. As a teenager, I certainly worked on plastic models, with all their glue stings and poorly fitting parts and horrific paint jobs. I remember getting a small Cutty Sark wooden model, with poor instructions and parts that were only printed to wood sheets. Everything had to be cut out and even the hull was a solid block of wood that had to be shaped and sanded....never came close to finishing.
 
Last year I took on a plastic model, Trumpeter's Titanic. It was a massive undertaking and took just about a year to finish. I had to learn how to handle photo etch, a paint gun, the use of CA glue and manipulating teeny, tiny parts. I took most of last summer off in the build as I own a sailboat in upstate NY, USA and that took priority, but I finished her last November or so. Is she a show room piece? Lol, no, but I am very proud of how she looks.
 
I have fairly good wood working skills and can problem solve a lot of things with wood. I love sailing and have always wanted to buy one of those pre-made wooden ships for my office. The ones that cost about $500-$700 USD. Instead, I decided, why not try to build one!!!!
 
I know this kit is VERY hard and having never even tried to build a wooden model or the subsequent issues and tasks concerning rigging, I just wanted to take a stab at it.
 
So I found a kit in stock in the UK through Arrow Models. I ordered her and within about 2 or 3 weeks it arrived in the USA. Arrow did a great job and while I was a bit nervous working with an overseas company where I could find little feedback, they were tops! Great communication and great customer service.
 
There are a few Caldercraft 1:72 build logs on MSW (I see more now as I've learned the search process here) and a few YouTube video logs that I am using. Perhaps (upon my initial search) not as many as some of the other models and kits. I thought I would add a log that is from a person with absolutely NO experience with this type of kit and certainly a kit that requires a high degree of skill or expertise or as is my hope....just the patience and perseverance to gut it through!
 
I've posted a few Titanic pics in this post, I promise going forward it will be all Victory all the time. I just want to see how the posting process works and I will start adding right away. As of Feb 21, 2024 I am on the first planking task, about 5 planks up. So.....I'll see you at the finish line and thank you!
Chris
 
Index to My Build
 
Laying out the Keel Mounting the Keel and adding Bulkheads Installation of Middle Deck Dummy Barrel Strips Gun port Patterns First Planking layer Sanding and finishing First Planking Quarter Galleries Deck Planking of Middle Deck Staining/Finishing Deck Planking Second Planking layer Three books every modeler needs  
 

I don't like to speak ill of any legitimate kit manufacturer, because I truly do appreciate the service they provide for modelers who can't scratch build or who otherwise just decide not to. But in this case I'm left wondering: Why? Why bring a kit to market that is neither a novel subject nor an improvement on an existing kit from a competitor? It makes little sense to me. Following on the heels of their equally unmoving Victory kit, this feels like two swings and two misses from the OcCre design department. But I'll leave it to the market to decide the fate of this new offering.

Post One Hundred and Forty-five
 
Stern Lanterns
A pair of Resin lanterns are provided in the kit with Brass etch brackets. Pre-cut acetate glazing that only requires folding to shape, completes the package.
Beautifully crafted, but my initial impression was that they looked a tad on the small size, but I needed to see them on the model.

3685
The plan is used to get the line of the crank.

3686
Assembly is simple, the tricky part if it can be called that, is fitting the ironwork to the stern gallery, particularly when you have lost track of the fixing holes.🙄

3688
I found it easier to use longer lengths of 0.8mm brass wire to form and fit the cranks.

3690
The only addition I made are fixing plates to the stern.
Apart from that I had to file the bottom of the clear glazing a tad to allow the lantern tops to sit down on the framing.

3694
Is my initial impression that they may be a little undersized borne out?
Perhaps not when compared to the contemporary model of Amazon below.

Amazon Stern
I could not find original records relating the ships lantern sizes by rate, and of course I’m not privy to the information used as a basis for the ‘Indy’ Lanterns.
 
I did check out relative sizes from my available sources, and for what it’s worth this is what I gleaned.
 
Victory - side lantern 57½” o/a height (22.8mm at 1:64 scale)
 
Bellona – 62½” o/a height (24.8mm at 1:64) scale drawing AotS book.
 
Pandora – 40¼” o/a height (16.0mm at 1:64) scale drawing AotS book.
 
Leopard  (50 gun ship 1790) - 53” o/a height (21mm at 1:64) Scale drawing John McKay from The 50-Gun Ship.
 
Sixth rate sloop– 51” o/a height (20.25mm at 1:64) scale drawing FFM Sixth rate book from a reconstruction.
 
Indefatigable – 44” o/a height (17.5mm at 1:64 scale) - actual kit fitting.
 
Another option is the exquisite Boxwood lantern 3/16th (1:64) scale from Syren.
This measures 7/8th" (22.25mm) which equates to a 56” o/a height.

1827
I used this on my Pegasus build, and I think it is a viable option for ‘Indy’.
 

3704
On balance I think I will stick with the kit version.

3702

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Onwards,
 
B.E.
16/02/2024