HMS Victory by Yabuhebi (Chris) - Caldercraft - 1:72

[Yabuhebi]

Hello everyone!

 

Well....after 40 years of work, I retired 2 years ago and have been trying to find things to do. As a teenager, I certainly worked on plastic models, with all their glue stings and poorly fitting parts and horrific paint jobs. I remember getting a small Cutty Sark wooden model, with poor instructions and parts that were only printed to wood sheets. Everything had to be cut out and even the hull was a solid block of wood that had to be shaped and sanded....never came close to finishing.

 

Last year I took on a plastic model, Trumpeter's Titanic. It was a massive undertaking and took just about a year to finish. I had to learn how to handle photo etch, a paint gun, the use of CA glue and manipulating teeny, tiny parts. I took most of last summer off in the build as I own a sailboat in upstate NY, USA and that took priority, but I finished her last November or so. Is she a show room piece? Lol, no, but I am very proud of how she looks.

 

I have fairly good wood working skills and can problem solve a lot of things with wood. I love sailing and have always wanted to buy one of those pre-made wooden ships for my office. The ones that cost about $500-$700 USD. Instead, I decided, why not try to build one!!!!

 

I know this kit is VERY hard and having never even tried to build a wooden model or the subsequent issues and tasks concerning rigging, I just wanted to take a stab at it.

 

So I found a kit in stock in the UK through Arrow Models. I ordered her and within about 2 or 3 weeks it arrived in the USA. Arrow did a great job and while I was a bit nervous working with an overseas company where I could find little feedback, they were tops! Great communication and great customer service.

 

There are a few Caldercraft 1:72 build logs on MSW (I see more now as I've learned the search process here) and a few YouTube video logs that I am using. Perhaps (upon my initial search) not as many as some of the other models and kits. I thought I would add a log that is from a person with absolutely NO experience with this type of kit and certainly a kit that requires a high degree of skill or expertise or as is my hope....just the patience and perseverance to gut it through!

 

I've posted a few Titanic pics in this post, I promise going forward it will be all Victory all the time. I just want to see how the posting process works and I will start adding right away. As of Feb 21, 2024 I am on the first planking task, about 5 planks up. So.....I'll see you at the finish line and thank you!

Chris

 

Index to My Build

 

• Laying out the Keel
• Mounting the Keel and adding Bulkheads
• Installation of Middle Deck
• Dummy Barrel Strips
• Gun port Patterns
• First Planking layer
• Sanding and finishing First Planking
• Quarter Galleries
• Deck Planking of Middle Deck
• Staining/Finishing Deck Planking
• Second Planking layer
• Three books every modeler needs

 

 

Edited March 5 by Yabuhebi

[ccoyle]

Welcome aboard! Your Titanic looks very nice from here.

[Landlubber Mike]

Chris, great job on the Titanic!  Looking forward to your Victory build.  I see you have a well stocked bar - that will help you during the long days/nights of planking, copper plating, and cannon rigging

[Yabuhebi]

Day one, I received my kit. As there is a back log on this particular model, I was asked if it was ok to send in a plain box to speed up delivery time. I didn't really care about that and she arrived on February 14, 2024.

 

Is there a way to alter or reduce the size of the photos in the post, so that they are not so big?

Also....is it better to just attach pictures to my post so that they are down below or post in the message?

 

 

 

 

 

Remembering that I am gearing this log for new builders with very little experience.

RULE # 1: Read the instructions, read a few paragraphs for the next task and then RE-READ what you are about to do.

RULE #2: Dry fit everything first, take a brief second and think about what you are doing and then go back to Rule #1 just one more time!

 

I did not do that.

 

As you can seen I glued the stern pieces to the keel and they should be left off until later. After some thought, I decided to just leave them on. Hopefully it won't matter or at the very least, I can fix it with sanding and putty.

 

 

 

Once done, I created the little base to set the keel into as I began the process of adding the bulkheads. I just used some scrap wood.

One tip: be sure you raise the keep just a bit up or make sure the bracing you are using doesn't interfere with the bulkheads. Mine did and I had to raise it just a bit.

 

 

 

I added the bow pieces that help with plank backing.

 

 

Mistake #2: I had read the instructions, but didn't pay attention to the order of things and got into a jackpot. I started thinking, what have I gotten myself into!

 

I checked the fit of the lower gun deck. It is the beefy deck that I gives solid strength to the model before beginning all of the other tasks. It was fine so I removed it and then added BOTH dummy barrel strips. I had to soak all 4, but didn't do it long enough. In addition, despite some good sanding and filing to make sure the bulkhead slots were clean, the wet barrel strips would bind.

 

After a few moments and some delicate persuasion, they went in. All set. However, when I went to put the lower gun deck in, it just didn't seem to look right. I kept thinking, it looks too high. But I glued it in and stepped away for awhile.

I then realized that the lower deck goes UNDER the bottom dummy strip. Sigh, I had to pry the deck off and figure it out. I could not get it to fit under the upper dummy strip and there was no way I was going to risk breaking a bulkhead to remove the strips.

 

So I cut the lower deck down the middle. Slid it into place, glued it and once dry, sanded the seam and added a bit of sawdust and glue to smooth it out.

Whew....

 

 

The battle scar....we all have them!

 

I then painted the dummy barrel strips. I just used what I have, Tamiya Flat Black.

I have ordered a full set of Admiralty Paints, but they may take a bit to arrive in the US. No worries.

 

Next up were the 6 gun port pieces on either side. 

 

The biggest issue for me was the use of the provided pins. I bought a cheap (after the fact) brad pin pusher from Amazon and I just can't make the damn thing work. It bends every nail I try to use. EVERY SINGLE ONE OF THEM!

 

I tried pre-drilling and it was of no use. So I bought a can of map pins and they seem to work. They break a lot, but I think I have a couple of hundred in the can.

 

Not many issues with the first piece (#270). Just some nervousness.

 

I did the next two pieces and while there are some fitting issues along the tops and bottoms, they seem ok.

My tip is to fit them dry, mark a line from an already attached piece to the new one you are working on so that they align right, pin nail or whatever from the middle out. First fore, then aft. That way they tend to 'smooth' out and you won't get any buckling.

 

That's what happened to me and I should have know better. Again, a little sanding and putty will fix it...I hope!

 

 

I am a bit more fortunate than many as I have a bit of a closed off area in my basement where I can work. Not enough room to lay out those crazy blue print plans, but enough to move around with just a minimal of bumping into things.

 

I then beveled the fore and aft bulkheads. I did not do #18 and I should have. I am having issues with broken planks at that junction and shaping AND wetting would have stopped it.

 

You can see the fitting and buckling below. I was able to suck that in a bit with clamps and glue.

 

 

I began the process of laying the planks as detailed in the instructions. I soaked the ends good and long and decided to use full planks, just cutting off about 10-12 cm of each to fit.

 

As I could not drive the pins into the sides of the bulkhead, I resorted to hammering in the map pins. At first, I was splitting the delicate planks, so I started predrilling the planks. That did the trick. I placed a small (IDK, .5mm?) bit with just about 2-3mm showing and it works great.

 

I would hammer the pins in and the planks would fit fine. I can only do about 3 before the pins get in the way though...

 

 

For the bow, I just used a good clamp with wood blocking to hold the planks to the bow backing. This way there are no chances of splitting the planks.

 

Again, you can see the buckling. Very bad.

 

But, I was able to mitigate it as much as possible.

 

 

Here is where I am as of today. 5 rows done and I am very happy with it thus far.

There are a couple of areas on the gun ports that I have circled, these need to be drawn in.

 

Also, if you notice the little pencil marks on the planks between 2 planks? Those are the aligning marks I was talking about. They help to ensure I have everything lined up with the ends. Might be better ways, but this works for me.

 

As you can see the planks do not terminate very well on bulkhead #18. I did bevel it going forward. A few of the end broke because of the bend, so be sure to soak this end too.

Edited February 24 by Yabuhebi

[Yabuhebi]

2 hours ago, ccoyle said:

Welcome aboard! Your Titanic looks very nice from here.

Thanks Chris!!!

[Yabuhebi]

1 hour ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Chris, great job on the Titanic!  Looking forward to your Victory build.  I see you have a well stocked bar - that will help you during the long days/nights of planking, copper plating, and cannon rigging

 

Ain't that the truth! 

Thank you!

[JeffT]

Welcome. It looks like you are off to a good start.

[Charter33]

Welcome Chris, from another Caldercraft Victory builder. You've certainly got off to a flying start! It's a challenging model, but lots of enjoyable and rewarding tasks lay ahead. 

It may seem way ahead in the future, but it might be worth considering how you are going to display the model once complete. I mention this as some methods need a bit of preparation such as pre-drilling holes in the bottom of the keel etc. before progress with the hull construction interferes or makes the task more difficult.

One technique I wish I had used, because at that time I was unaware of it, is the infilling of the spaces between some of the bulkheads, notably at the bow and stern, with a soft and carvable wood to help with the construction of the first planking.

As you say, there are some truly inspirational build logs here on this site and time spent reading through them is genuinely time well spent. I always refer to the work of these very skilled builders together with the comprehensive instructions provided by Caldercraft. My build is only my second model ship. The first was nearly 40 years ago followed by long period of absence while a growing family took precedence.

Good luck, I'll be following your progress with much interest.

Cheers,

Graham.

[Yabuhebi]

1 hour ago, Charter33 said:

Welcome Chris, from another Caldercraft Victory builder. You've certainly got off to a flying start! It's a challenging model, but lots of enjoyable and rewarding tasks lay ahead. 

It may seem way ahead in the future, but it might be worth considering how you are going to display the model once complete. I mention this as some methods need a bit of preparation such as pre-drilling holes in the bottom of the keel etc. before progress with the hull construction interferes or makes the task more difficult.

One technique I wish I had used, because at that time I was unaware of it, is the infilling of the spaces between some of the bulkheads, notably at the bow and stern, with a soft and carvable wood to help with the construction of the first planking.

As you say, there are some truly inspirational build logs here on this site and time spent reading through them is genuinely time well spent. I always refer to the work of these very skilled builders together with the comprehensive instructions provided by Caldercraft. My build is only my second model ship. The first was nearly 40 years ago followed by long period of absence while a growing family took precedence.

Good luck, I'll be following your progress with much interest.

Cheers,

Graham.

 

Hi Graham;

Thanks for the tip about setting up display options now. I will most likely just go with a stand where the finished boat just rests on it, rather than create an  internal rod type system.

 

Also, you are right about adding fill to the fore and aft bulkheads. I am not doing that and it is evident. The bow planks between bulkheads 2 and 1 are suffering because of a lack of solid backing. There is a bit of stagger in the planks and not as much roundness from #1 to the actual keel stem.

 

My thought as my impatience made me just move forward without it was this...I would have used small soft pine blocks (no balsa around here that I could get quick enough), I would have created a 2 templates, created a series of wedding cake triangles, glued them together, sand them into submission.

 

After hours of doing that, I would have started

 

Or, I could just press on and spend those hours after sanding, filling and sanding into shape. Same time spent, but it soothed my impatience.

 

THANKS!

Chris 

[kiwiron]

Off to a great start Chris. Make sure everything is square and even side to side. I found out too late the right hand side deck height is about 3mm higher than the port side. Read the instructions until you understand them properly before you do the next task. Check all of your parts are there and complete. Some of my castings were missing also important parts were broken. Put a sheet under your workbench to catch the fallen parts. Good luck.

[Yabuhebi]

On 2/21/2024 at 10:58 PM, kiwiron said:

Off to a great start Chris. Make sure everything is square and even side to side. I found out too late the right hand side deck height is about 3mm higher than the port side. Read the instructions until you understand them properly before you do the next task. Check all of your parts are there and complete. Some of my castings were missing also important parts were broken. Put a sheet under your workbench to catch the fallen parts. Good luck.

 

The sheet idea is a serious issue! When I did the Titanic model, I can't tell you how much time I spent on my hands and knees looking for those teeny tiny irreplaceable pieces.

 

I have found missing parts tin my kit too. I only have one of the 12.7mm (1/2) dowels and I am missing walnut sheet #3, which has a lot of the next group of tasks with the galley. There is no way I want to inventory the rest of the small parts right now. I guess I will have to worry about that later. I am sure it is frustrating for Jotika, it seems like there is a huge upswing in demand for this kit, despite the cost and they are struggling to fulfill orders. Most of us imagine these companies have huge warehouses with dozens of employees working under bright lights and foreman pacing the floor. I think in reality, there is probably a hand full of employees juggling internet orders, phone calls and filling boxes with model parts. Has to be hectic.

 

Jotika is sending the part out today, I didn't bother asking for the dowel. Seems silly to try and send a 48" piece of wood through the mail. Our local big box hardware stores sell it for about $3USD.

 

I'm about half way up the bulkheads with the first planking. Having some fitting issues obviously at the bow and stern and some 'clinkering?' of the planks. I spent about 3 hours last night on YouTube watching planking videos, especially so I'm ready for the 2nd planking task. 

Edited February 24 by Yabuhebi

[Yabuhebi]

Whew! The planking is a bear.

The darn map pins only let me do about 3 strakes a side before I have to wait till the glue dries.

I did try to taper #11 here, there are a lot of gaps, but as I've read on other builds....wood fill will fix it.

 

Yeah...wood fill will fix it

 

 

I think creating backing support (solid wood blocking, balsa or pine?) between the bow and bulkhead #1 would have helped visualize and/or shape the planks on the bow.

 

 

You can see where I did not wet the stern ends of the planks and paid the price. Also the #11 strake on the STBD side is way too short. Wood putty will be my friend. 

 

Sadly, WAY too much space between strakes at the bow. That and there is a lot of 'stepping' or clinking or whatever between strakes.

 

 

However, from this angle, the strakes look passable.

 

 

 

 

 

 

These next few pics look pretty good too. Almost like I know what I'm doing!   I am NO OLHA BATCHVROV!!!! She makes it look effortless!

 

 

 

This morning I decided to take a different tack and tried to start at the keel and work my way back up to the water line.

I took measurements of the 'white' or open space remaining. It showed that the middle, longest bulkheads needed 18 uncut strakes (at 6mm each)

 

I took the open space for each bulkhead and divided it by 18. In my mind, this gave me the width needed for that particular bulkhead while keeping full strips on the middle bulkheads.

 

I only did the first 3 strakes but I think it might go ok. I am sure I am going to have issues when I get to the original work! We shall see!

 

Edited February 24 by Yabuhebi

[kiwiron]

All you want out of the first planking with filler, sanding etc is a base for the second planking then that's a base for the coppering. You just want the general shape for a start. Main parts I would check would be castings and photo etch parts. Like you say any wood should be o.k  to find locally. 

[Yabuhebi]

3 hours ago, kiwiron said:

All you want out of the first planking with filler, sanding etc is a base for the second planking then that's a base for the coppering. You just want the general shape for a start. Main parts I would check would be castings and photo etch parts. Like you say any wood should be o.k  to find locally. 

 

I thank that's a great statement for new and rookie builders. It is just a base and sanding and filler (done correctly) will create a base for the 2nd planking.

 

And then THAT planking is just a base for the copper plating (should you opt for that, which I am). So two times to create the ideal shape and perfection.

 

I suppose today I will bring all of the pieces up and lay them out and check off their status. I did all of the wooden sheets and they are there and all of the dowels except the one 1/2" dowel. I guess it has to be done!

 

 

....on a non model subject, I am the Secretary-Treasurer of the Catalina 380 International Association. About 400 or so sailboat owners of the Catalina 380 (and like) models. We have 9 owners in Australia, none in New Zealand but mostly in Queensland and New South Wales. How someone would sail a US manufactured boat all the way down under is incredible. But I suppose daring to cross the Tasman Sea must be too much!!!! I always do Google searches of owners to see where they live. I think I would just love living in that area, the places to sail into, the 'proximity' to SE Asia.....just wonderful!

[allanyed]

Hi Chris

Happy retirement to you!!!    It can be an adjustment, and not only for the retiree😁

 

Not to stir up a hornet's nest (yabuhebi?) but maybe consider studying the four part video on planking done by MSW's own Chuck Passaro.  It will make things much easier for you in the future as well as yield realistic planking.  Part One can be found at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM   This will help you eliminate all the lifting you are getting from cold edge bending.

 

Is there a reason your log is in the 1801-1850 section rather than the 1750-1800?  Many folks enjoy following the various Victory builds so might be missing yours as it was launched in 1765.

 

Allan

Edited February 24 by allanyed

[Yabuhebi]

1 hour ago, allanyed said:

Hi Chris

Happy retirement to you!!!    It can be an adjustment, and not only for the retiree😁

 

Not to stir up a hornet's nest (yabuhebi?) but maybe consider studying the four part video on planking done by MSW's own Chuck Passaro.  It will make things much easier for you in the future as well as yield realistic planking.  Part One can be found at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM   This will help you eliminate all the lifting you are getting from cold edge bending.

 

Is there a reason your log is in the 1801-1850 section rather than the 1750-1800?  Many folks enjoy following the various Victory builds so might be missing yours as it was launched in 1765.

 

Allan

 Allan;

 

Lol....not many people get the user name! Been using it for years.

 

I believe I have subscribed to Chuck's YouTube page and have watched them a few times. I find that I do a few strakes and as they dry, I come back upstairs and re-watch planking videos. 

 

As for where I am, I guess I just had 1805 in my mind. I wonder if there is a way to move my thread to the proper section?

 

Thank you!

Chris

[Yabuhebi]

Well I have been moved!!!! Thanks to Allan for pointing out my 'ship out of time'.

 

For me, there has been nothing more helpful than watching other build threads and video logs of builds. Especially when they are beginner builders.

 

Sometimes when you watch an experienced modeler, they have done so many previous projects, they know what they need to do before starting. Their moves are effortless and the end result is what we strive for.

 

With beginners, you see the learning as you go, a process which helps me. 

...if that makes sense.

 

Well, back downstairs, I'll have an update this evening and hopefully be 'close' to finishing my first planking layer!

Chris

Edited February 24 by Yabuhebi

[Yabuhebi]

I have watched so many planking videos, read so many PDF files on planking and I even joined the Nautical Research Guild to get some of their inside tips.

 

Boy is it tough. I clearly did not have a plan and that lack of foresight is evident. I understand that I will be ok because this is just the first planking and I get to do it again with the 2nd layer. Hopefully, that will go better!

 

 

For some reason, I decided to also work from the keel back up to the water line. You can see I tried to notch one of the strakes to keep things moving along evenly.

 

Just a close up of 'what not to do to your model' pics!

 

Today (2/25/24) I started getting close to the finish. Instead of trying to bend the strips into submission, I tried notching them out and running 2 into 1 strip. I think you can see some of my attempts on strips towards the stern (around bulkhead #14 or 15)

 

I finished one side! Just gluing that final strip into place.

 

But will she float?

 

 

 

I wanted to see if I can correct all of the imperfections by applying some wood putty. I tried a different product from one I would normally use. This one has the consistency of frosting. I am curious to see how it sands once it dries and how long for it fully cure.

 

 

[Yabuhebi]

 

Finally finished the first run of planking.  If this was a single plank type of model, I would have completely removed it and tried to start again. Very humbling process.

 

I did apply DAP's Premium wood filler to the entire hull. This stuff isn't like normal wood putty that dries into a cement, gets into your finger tips when you don't wear gloves and takes hours to sand smooth.

 

It's almost like drywall mud, it dried to a point that it is sandable in about 2 hours. When you sand, it is VERY dusty, again like drywall mud. But it sands down very nicely and levels well.

 

After my first sanding, I can see some low spots and was able to add a new layer. 

 

I also worked at cleaning up the stern, using my Dremmel to cut away all the overhanging strips. I may have cut a bit too far and I'll check the fit with parts that build up the stern galley. I also had a few strips on the bow that didn't fit well, they were too long and bowed out. I cut them down a bit, glued them and will fair them tomorrow.

 

I was getting parts ready for the task of setting up the galley but the kit was missing Sheet #3. Fortunately, Jotika sent a new sheet and it arrived today. I think that is pretty good service. I am missing one of the 12.7mm masts too, but Home Depot sells 48" lengths...sadly their dowels all have a bit of a kink in them...that's the problem with selling dry wood in a 'box store' instead of from lumber yards. The wood tends to warp and be a bit substandard.

 

But for $2 or $3, I bought 2!

 

I will take the next few days sanding and filling, then I'll clean my work area and take a look at the pieces for the stern galley.

See you then!

 

 

 

 

[Yabuhebi]

Boy!!! What a droopy, drippy mess that last picture was!

 

But it is behind me...wood filler is still my friend and so far he/she hasn't let me down.

 

Today I worked on the quarter galleries and while things dried, I also worked on the middle gun deck planking.

 

First, working ALONE on the quarter galleries is actually much harder than anybody lets on. Maybe it's the first 'rite of passage' we have to endure...no one posts that doing this is almost impossible so that when it's done, we all feel like there must have been some easy, peasy way that veterans knew and wouldn't share with us rookies!

 

Because it just sucked and I started thinking....I just finished the first planking and that was comedy of errors after looking at other builds and then I start trying to figure out the galleries AND figure out a way to actually glue them together. Whew.

 

The plans are and they aren't pretty clear. I finally decided to just glue part #373 to each side, lining up the notches on the already attached gunport #270. I found that bending the window pane pieces was fairly straight forward and since they were delicate, they held their shape well. However the pieces in-between the window 'skins' were VERY tough to shape. In addition, I think they needed a round bend AND a bit of a twist to line up with the....tumblehome?....of the gun port. I ended up having to use map pins to drive in the edges to the gun port side.

 

 

 

I used a piece of 1/2" dowel to help pull the stern sheet in.

 

Laid out the quarter gallery skins to see how they will fit. I cleaned out the recess for the window framing using a pointed file. That seemed to work well, there are a few build logs that actually add skins to create a stronger recess to show off the window mullion/muntins? That's what I plan on doing.

 

There is so much talk about being careful gluing the transparency to the back of the window frame skins, especially if you use CA glue.

I have had good luck with Canopy Glue, it does not add a fog to clear plastic...there is a bit of cloudiness but nothing bad.

 

Honestly, when I did my Titanic build, I would actually sand the backs of the window plastic to create a hazy view. It allowed light through (I had lit my model) while not taking away from the fact there are windows.  I didn't do that here but I thing it would have worked fine since I am not adding lights.

 

Coming up with creative ways to glue all the skins to the boat took some time. In the end, there is another level of planking that will butt up to this work and then I can contemplate adding wood putty to smooth the whole thing out.

 

While waiting for glue to dry on the galley quarters, I cut the decking strips to 85mm. I did this based on the instructions for the upper gun deck planking. However, I used a 5 plank layout for the middle deck based on a deck planking instructional PDF. 85 divided by 5 into an even number, so I used the 5 butt pattern. Yes...I just got Anatomy of Nelson's Ship by Longridge today (WOOT!!!!!) and I see that he recommends the upper deck be planked in the 4 butt system, but nothing for the middle deck. I like the look of it and since very little of it is showing, I am happy.

 

 

Honestly, it looks so dirty and gluey, but I couldn't be happier.

 

I sanded it down, The pictures seem to show a lot of gaps between the planks, but that isn't the case. And yes, I did try to continue the 5 butt system into the entry areas....tried, I think I actually cut the planks for the first side but ended up just creasing the planks on the other side.

 

 

 

Sorry, they were tough, but I think that once they dry out I can smooth them out with sanding and putty.

 

I hope!!!!

[Yabuhebi]

I finished the gallery pieces. It was very difficult getting #372 to bend in the direction that is needed. I tried soaking it in hot water in my microwave but it didn't seem to offer any more pliancy along its longer axis. So I placed it on a full size spray paint can. I wrapped it with a dozen or so rubber bands and then placed the whole think in a pitcher of hot water for an hour. That did the trick!

 

 

 

There is a lower piece #220 that I think is supposed to be an angle to frame out the gallery bottom. I installed mine straight across and you can see there is now a void under the gallery. I decided I would just created a piece from the walnut sprue and cap it off, I can sand and fill after to smooth it out.

 

I believe it will be fine once it is sanded and filled and ultimately painted.

 

For the deck, while it is a deck with little visibility once the model progresses, I was not happy with some of the gaps in the planks. I truly thought that I kept everything tight, but spaces are there.

 

I thought I would add some stain to the wood filler I have and see if I could smooth it out. I had a small can of old Jacobean stain and mixed it with a little filler. It was a kind of grey color, but that is kind of what happens when you apply this stain on white colored woods.

 

 

After doing the whole thing (the little corner was my test piece and after it had dried it seems ok...) I thought, WHAT HAVE I DONE!!!!

 

But a GOOD hour or so of sanding, block sanding, sanding with emery boards, with my fingers I think I got it all off. I really like what the stain did to the wood. It gives it an aged look and the fill in between  looks like caulking of the right scale. It did fill some of the more aggressive holes I had, but that is ok too.

 

After a final sanding with an 800 grit paper...I wanted 220 or 400 but grabbed the wrong one. It worked fine.

 

 

I sprayed a coat of matt lacquer on it. It obviously sprays wet and creates a more yellow appearance, but when I did this with my Titanic build, once it dried it reverted back to its original color. I'll steel wool it tomorrow once it cures and maybe put a 2nd coat on. I'll have to see.

 

 

 

On to the 2nd planking. I am dreading this as I want it to be perfect.

[allanyed]

Looking good Chris.  Hard to tell from the photos if the knee of the head and stem have been tapered which would be a significant amount.  Do the instructions indicate how much the stem is to be tapered vertically and knee of the head from the stem to the seat of the figure head? 

Allan

[Yabuhebi]

4 hours ago, allanyed said:

Looking good Chris.  Hard to tell from the photos if the knee of the head and stem have been tapered which would be a significant amount.  Do the instructions indicate how much the stem is to be tapered vertically and knee of the head from the stem to the seat of the figure head? 

Allan

Hello Allen;

 

I may be lost in the terminology here. I know that I have tapered the stern to accommodate the addition of both plankings. 

 

But somehow, I do not think that is what you are referring to? The instructions haven't required that I taper the bow stem of the kit. I seems to me that after installing the stem to keel (or what the kit deems is the keel) both layers of planking will just lay up against the stem and not interfere with subsequent parts. So other than requiring that the bearding line at the aft end of the 'keel', I didn't see any reference to tapering the fore stem.

 

Oh oh?

[Charter33]

Good progress Chris. There's a steep learning curve with this kit, but patience and perseverance pays off in the end. I found those quarter galleries a challenge too, and commented in my own build log on there were times when having as many arms as an octopus would help 🤣.

Planking the middle deck is a great opportunity to practice the skills you need for later in the build, and your work here looks impressive - well done!

The filler has done the trick on the first planking. Are you planning to seal the filler surface in any way to aid the bonding of the second layer of planks?

Graham.

[Yabuhebi]

Hi Graham, 

I appreciate the encouragement. I did seal the deck with a matt finish. I didn't use a wood sealer, I only have wood pre stain in my shop and wasn't sure if that would work or discolor the wood. I used the matt spray clear coat on the wooden decks of my Titanic model and the wood accepts it very quickly and when it dries, it is un-noticeable. It did give some of the planks a different color, you can see it on the port side towards the front.

 

This site doesn't really allow you to zoom into pictures, I save others and then look at them using my own viewer, but when I zoom in, the stain gives the grain a nice oaky feeling. So other than coloring not being consistent (I chalk that up to maybe sanding too hard in places), I think it looks very 1800'y!

 

OH!!!! You are talking about the first planking!!! See!!!! Read the instructions thoroughly! 

Yes, I am going to stop at Home Depot today and get a can of wood sealer...again, not sure the pre-stain is really made to assist in bonding, only prepping the wood for stain.

 

THANKS!

Chris

 

[Charter33]

If you're thinking of using a PVA adhesive for the second planking layer you might get away with giving the hull's filler a brushed coat of watered down PVA.

A little tip about viewing pictures on this site - when using a touch screen cell phone to look at build logs if you tap a picture it comes up in a format the lets you zoom in. On a PC try clicking on a picture, it can than be enlarged in the usual way.

Good luck!

Graham

[allanyed]

8 hours ago, Yabuhebi said:

I may be lost in the terminology here. I know that I have tapered the stern to accommodate the addition of both plankings. 

 

Hi Chris

Sorry if my question raised more questions.   It is probably easier to look at  similar discussions here at MSW  when this was raised on another build.  I suspect your kit does not address this as only two kit makers I now of appear to give this any attention even though it is found on virtually every RN ship in the 17th to early 19th centuries.  https://modelshipworld.com/topic/34577-taper-of-the-keel-stem-knee-of-the-head-and-stern-post/#comment-986943 and https://modelshipworld.com/topic/32748-hms-bellona-by-nearshore-corel-1100/page/2/#comment-982279  Post #40

Just as the stern post narrows in breadth from the upper portion down to match the keel, the stem also reduces in breadth so it matches the breadth of the keel where they meet at the boxing joint as the keel tapers in breadth for and aft from midships.   Looking down on the knee of the head from above it also tapers from the stem down to about 6 inches at the area of the figure head on a 74.  I do not have my books with me so not sure on a first rate, but I am guessing it would be similar.  In the end, as with the majority of kit makers, most model builders are not aware of the tapering or are not overly concerned with it so it will likely never be noticed if not done.  The downside is that the figure head, if a carved person will surely be bowlegged. 😀 

Allan

 

[Yabuhebi]

I understand, once I finish with the 2nd planking, I will address this if the kit hasn't done so with the figure head.

VERY much appreciate!

Chris

 

[Yabuhebi]

9 hours ago, Charter33 said:

If you're thinking of using a PVA adhesive for the second planking layer you might get away with giving the hull's filler a brushed coat of watered down PVA.

A little tip about viewing pictures on this site - when using a touch screen cell phone to look at build logs if you tap a picture it comes up in a format the lets you zoom in. On a PC try clicking on a picture, it can than be enlarged in the usual way.

Good luck!

Graham

 

I think that's a good idea...almost like creating a 'contact cement' bond between the two.

 

However, I am going to CA glue. I actually laid out 7  planks on the port side today.

The picture brings out the glue sloppiness that I can't see in person. I noticed that when I was painting the Titanic. It would look great, smooth finish and great detail, then I would take a picture to post and all the imperfections of air brushing came to light. 

 

Same here.

 

 

I just looked at a couple of other build projects and it appears their 2nd planking at the bow are running higher up than mine.

If I look at the build below ( I am almost positive it is Robert29's build), and count down from the inner most gammoning slot, he has 5 planks

When I count the same on my build I too have 5, but it just seems like his are more 'even' with the waterline.

I suppose it won't matter in the end as I am painting my model and he didn't and if I make sure the wales follow the plan, the actual direction of the planking isn't the end of the world....if it is.....just sigh and pity me.

 

 

 

Overall, I am pleased with the results. Looking up at the picture above certainly looks lumpy, but in real like I just love it!

 

I still have to truck on and begin the hard planking, but I am hopeful!

 

Thanks to all for looking in on me and offering help. Much appreciated.
Chris

[Yabuhebi]

I see now after zooming in on some of my pics that I should chamfer the planks before setting them, that would allow a tighter fit.

 

I will try that on the STBD side!