Barbossa

Small update 
Planking upper deck "work in progress" .

Indeed, this is something different from nice straight planks.
Special, but time consuming 

Construction of the knight for the main yard.

It appears that i placed the main mast too far back.

Corrected position.

Knigt and the base plates for the upper deck placed. With the layout roughly sketched.

And start planking.
First the piece that is still left, then the remaining part (a puzzle...)

Shrouds and ratlines...at last ( for the time being ).
Still trying to avoid as much as possible bulky knots and joins.
The swivel guns : this is the last option by using the pieces provided with the kit. Although dry fit ...seems not that bad. I kinda like the contrast between the copper natural look and the metallic color supports.
I'm still in the waiting for a better and feasible alternative. Enfin, wait and see...

Shrouds and ratlines...at last ( for the time being ).
Still trying to avoid as much as possible bulky knots and joins.
The swivel guns : this is the last option by using the pieces provided with the kit. Although dry fit ...seems not that bad. I kinda like the contrast between the copper natural look and the metallic color supports.
I'm still in the waiting for a better and feasible alternative. Enfin, wait and see...

Shrouds and ratlines...at last ( for the time being ).
Still trying to avoid as much as possible bulky knots and joins.
The swivel guns : this is the last option by using the pieces provided with the kit. Although dry fit ...seems not that bad. I kinda like the contrast between the copper natural look and the metallic color supports.
I'm still in the waiting for a better and feasible alternative. Enfin, wait and see...

Shrouds and ratlines...at last ( for the time being ).
Still trying to avoid as much as possible bulky knots and joins.
The swivel guns : this is the last option by using the pieces provided with the kit. Although dry fit ...seems not that bad. I kinda like the contrast between the copper natural look and the metallic color supports.
I'm still in the waiting for a better and feasible alternative. Enfin, wait and see...

Small update on the upper deck layout.
 
During a week of vacation I asked and received information from the Mary Rose museum. Was there a capstan, and if so where?
Answer.
There is no real evidence that there was one, but also no evidence that there wasn't one. And the most logical place is behind the main mast.

Also received a pdf "Cabels and Cablets of the Mary Rose" which contains a lot of information about the layout of the upper deck and the anchor cables.
This results in the following setup (not a technical masterpiece as it is sketched on a beach chair, but reasonably clear).

Start upper deck.

 

I'm back.  Haven't really gone anywhere, but progress has been a bit slow.  I have reached what I consider a milestone; all the standing rigging is done.  Finito.  Now I am starting to tackle the running rigging which will take me a considerable amount of time. 🙂
 

Post 79
18’ Cutter
I had already painted the interior hull and applied a coat of Vallejo Black/Grey to the outer hull.
This small cutter will be suspended from the stern davits, which will provide interest and add the opportunity to add tackles to the davits.
Unlike the 22’ cutter the  footwaling is incorporated in the resin moulding.

4297sc
Works very well at this scale.
 
The inboard fittings are cut from 0.6mm Pear and are therefore very delicate.

4408a
The gratings are beautifully cut but won’t stand even the lightest pressure without risk of breakage. I did find it necessary to add a strip beneath the fore grating which was showing signs of splitting as I teased it into position. I also added a lateral support beneath the sternsheet thwart.
Even so, these fittings are streets ahead of the previous versions in brass etch.

4409a
The sternsheets are another snap risk area.
To fit these I found it helped to slightly flex the hull outwards whilst  softly easing the sheets into place, so the notches aligned with the frames.

4420b
The Bow thwarts present another issue of getting a close formation to the round of the hull. I found it easier to remove the fore side pieces and fit the thwart first.
 
As with the larger cutter I added the Mast  clamp and rudder hanging details, altho’ the rudder won’t be in place with the boat on the stern davits.

4446
Fitting the pintles and gudgeons was quite tricky as very tiny eyelets and pins are required, the process not helped by fat fingers and dodgy eyes.
The oars for the cutter are of the style I would expect to see, so it is a puzzlement why the oars for the larger cutter, that I replaced, differed in style.

4414a
In a raw state here. A slight round is required on the shafts and the blades require thinning down.

4431a

4436a

4457a

4458a

4460a

4461a

4465a
I very much like these Resin boats, and altho’ we are saved the the effort of planking tiny hulls there is still a lot of work to do to get a good finish.
I think the all-wood versions still have a place for those who like the challenge, and satisfaction is certainly to be had from successfully completing one of these mini projects.
 
B.E.
25/05/2025
 
 

Continuing with the cannons and preparations for the main deck.
The forged iron cannons are constructed from polystyrene tubes, the inner and outer diameters of which differ by 1 mm.
These are then glued to the wooden part (carriage) and provided with an iron pin. They will be finished later.

Making 4 stairs and the support of the deck.

With dry fitted fore castle and (to long) bowsprit
 

The modeler had also finished and painted both quarter galleries to which I added doors to the great cabin, a commode and hanging lanterns. For the great cabin I made doors to each quarter gallery, a desk for the Captain, 2 smaller ones  for his clerk and secretary, 2 chests and trunks for his clothes and a large bench seat with storage drawers at the stern. 
For the sleeping cabin - which you can see dry fitted - ( please ignore the as yet to be painted guns - there’s a hanging bed, a washing/shaving table and 2 clothes trunks. 

Started working on the 18# gun carrages. 

Post 78
Cutters 18’ and 22’
These are the new resin hulled version with Pearwood fittings.
Nicely formed with Lapstrake planking, detailed framing, mast steps, and rowlocks set-up for single banked rowing.
The colour scheme needs to be decided first, something that  co-ordinates with the main ship scheme.
For the outer hull colour I used Vallejo White/grey, and for the Gunwales Black/grey. I think this gives a more scale effect.
For the inner hull I used a combination of oche brown shade mixtures until I got a look I liked. I then applied a wash of Dark Brown.

4297a
This picked up the inner Lapstrake planking.
I applied the same scheme to both cutters.
The Pearwood fittings I left bright just treated with w-o-p.
 
22’ Cutter
Inserting the Pearwood fittings, takes a little care, they are quite delicate, particularly the stern sheets.
They are accurately cut  to fit around the  hull ribs  but light pressure only should be used to fit into place.
 I used spots of cyano.

4308a
One thing I did note ; there does not seem to be a laser cut thwart for the aftermost position. A minor issue as one is easily cut from the laser fret.
Adding detail
Adding the mast clamps to the thwarts is a small improvement, easily done using black card.

4301a
Using a  stick helps align the  thwart with the mast step.

4309a
I also like to add lifting rings to the keelson.

4317a
At this scale it is feasible to add the rudder hanging ironware to the Cutter stern. This comprises a long  pintle, and  Gudgeon ring. Fiddly, but it’s stuff I like to do.

4316a
This particular arrangement is designed for quick attachment/ removal of the rudder.
 
 
The set-up for rowing is three pairs of offset rowlocks which would suggest single banked rowing positions. The oar lengths would suggest  double banked rowing, so with this arrangement there would presumably be one rower per thwart, alternating port and starboard.
I’m not too keen on the provided oars for the 22’ cutter, the blade looks too short and paddle like for my taste.

4305a
The oar style supplied with Indy looks more the shape to my eye and fortunately I had some spares I could utilise.
 
Boat cradles are supplied (for the 18’ cutter) but will fit the 22’ cutter. If the larger cutter is to be stored on deck, the cradles need raising a little to allow the boat keel to clear the coamings. I added 2x2mm Pearwood strip to the bottom of the cradles.

4324a
I always find fitting cradles a tricky exercise, getting them central to the deck, square, and  correctly spaced to fit the hull. It would be easier to glue the hull to the cradles before fitting, but I prefer not to do that.

4325a

4327a

4328a
Nice to see that my scale figure sits perfectly in the sternsheets.

4331a

4332a
Some paintwork tidying is still required, but I’ll attend to that in conjunction with the 18’ Cutter
 
B.E.
18/05/2025
 
 

Masts and yards.
During the last vacation, the possible dimensions were drawn up. (All this is largely guesswork).

A few months ago, wood was sawn. pine wood with thin grain. Age?? But the tree was sawn at least 25 years ago.
 Nice weather to work outside, So the "lathe" was set up. Own construction, not a pretty thing. But it works.

 
All masts parts are"semi" ready. Together with the main yard.

 

The rear side is ready for painting
Painted, some painted parts could be better. But that is for later..
With the general shape seems to be ok. The fore castle is on hold for a while.
First I will continue with the gun deck.
(And i forgot to drill the holes for the swivel cannons. I see now....

 
Current status

Small update,
Nice weather to work outside.
So the "lathe" set up. Own construction, not a pretty thing. But it works 😇.

All mast parts and yards are "semi" ready.

 

Fore and Main Masts. (Part 1)
I am working these as per the kit dimensions using 8mm Ramin dowel.
The trickiest part is forming the 5mm square mastheads from dowel.
I do this  by marking the square area on the dowel top, lining along for the required length, and filing using 120 grade sandpaper glued to a broad stick.
I gauge by eye with constant  measurement and square checks.

4138a
 I initially  pare down to around 5.5mm before checking with the cross trees. It is then a case of reduction by degrees whilst maintaining the square profile.

4142a
The sides of the stick are then sanded flat to accommodate the Cheeks.

4143a
I use Tamiya tape to define the  area to take the cheeks, again careful use of a broad sanding stick is all that is required with constant checking to ensure squareness.

4161a
The masts were coated with w-o-p, and I painted the Pearwood cheeks to better tone with the Ramin Masts. I then use a water based oche tinted wood dye to  even out the colour tone.
 
The laser cut Trestle trees in Pearwood slot together cleanly and firmly.

4164a
I very much like the Mast tops, beautifully cut and detailed, a joy to work with.
 
Regardless of mast rake the tops should be level to the waterline.

4176a

4179a

4183a

4188a
It seems to take me ages to ensure the Mast tops sit square and level, the final adjustments being made after gluing but before it sets.

4191a
Once the mast tops are firmly fixed, the  Bibs and  Front fish are added.
 
B.E.
06/05/2025
 

Preparation of the cannon deck.
 
Since there is no grating in the deck above, there is little or no visible interior of this deck. The intention is to make the carriages of the cannons as simple as possible. And only add the (half) cannon barrels later.
The first attempt failed, fortunately no photos.
The second attempt was with wooden blocks. Reasonably good, but too visible when the sunlight shines on them.

The third attempt has now reduced the size of these blocks and painted them completely black. This will be the method used for the bronze cannons.

Wit wooden block

adjusted wooden block an final methode 

Actual look :


 
 
 

Some progress :


 

Got a few days off over Easter


Hope to get some more done tomorrow and on Monday perhaps
 
-- Chris

Planking the rear of the forecastle.
A part of a decorative "drain" was found at the remains of the rear castle. This probably served to drain water from the deck to the sides of the hull.
So why wouldn't there be one at the forecastle?
This drain was made of a solid oak tree trunk, and on the model it is built up from several layers of cherry and twisted iron wire.

The drain is in place and the planks applied. Gluing plank by plank and letting it dry took a while.

Planking sanded and further finishing in progress.

Cheers Ronald and Mark, and thanks to all following along, much appreciated.
Post 64
Headworks cont’d
Additional Timber heads

3848b
I decided to have a punt at creating the aftmost timberhead as shown on the Adm plan above.

3864a
I used the spare kit part as a template for the basic shape, traced onto some spare 1.5mm fret, and cut out on the jigsaw.

3869a

3875a

3878a
I suspect that some detail is missing from the head works, but unfortunately there doesn’t seem to be an Adm. plan of this area.

3880a
I don’t know whether it is a kit simplification, or based on  other sources, but I have doubts that the space between the Head timbers and rails would simply be a void.
At the very least I would expect there to be Head beams running between the Head timbers, linked by Carlings in the fore/aft direction.

3887a
I decided to add these and the saddle, but leave out any further enhancement.
I’ll fit the carlings later, once I’ve checked that they don’t foul the Gammoning.

3897a
Would there have been gratings, and seats of ease for the crew? Harpy did carry quite a large crew (121), and I presume the  ‘Necessary’ at the stern was for the use of Officers.🤔
 
The final part is to add the decorative scroll work.

3901a
This is primed with Metal Prep 4k before painting with ochre brown.

3883a

3891a

3893a

3886a
The hull is complete now, but I think Harpy has raised more questions in my mind than Sphinx and Indy taken together, all great fun, and I’m enjoying this build far more than I imagined I would.
 
……..Back to the deck fittings.
 
B.E.
15/04/2025
 
 
 

Thanks.
If you have time. The model will be on display at this event.

 
https://www.modelbouwforum.nl/threads/modelbouwersdag-expo-historische-scheepsmodellen-2025.291459/