Barbossa

It's always a pretty big step when you knock off the lower ratlines. Just a couple of additional notes - the first six lines on the top and bottom of both the main and fore shrouds skip the foremost and aftmost shrouds. Otherwise the process is the same as the mizzen - skipping every few lines to prevent the shrouds from squeezing together or skewing.  I used a long ruler to make sure  my graph paper was positioned properly to the match the lines of the ship and the other ratlines. 
 
 
 
  I also wanted to note here that it is quite important (especially at this scale) to let the diluted PVA dry completely before you try and trim the edges otherwise the knots will unravel and you'll have to redo some lines. After the end knots dry, I use a brand new blade on my scalpel, hold the end of the rope as tightly as I can with my smallest tweezers, then gently cut the rope as close to the knot as possible with a slow back and forth sawing motion using only the weight of the scalpel. Trying to "slice" the rope does not work here and results in pulling and fraying.
 

 
This is also one of those places where it really does make a difference when you use higher quality lines - another benefit of making my own.  The polyester fibers do have a tendency to slip a tiny bit, so going through and adjusting the clove hitches across each ratline is paramount to maintaining some semblance of evenness throughout the rigging. I have some a bit more slack than others, but overall I'm pleased with the end result. As we all know - this is one of those times when patience really does pay off.
 
  
 
 
 
For those who are curious - a total of 784 clove hitches including the ratlines across the futtock shrouds. 
 

The starboard side is coming along nicely. The new file arrived and let me open the gunports to nearly their final diameter. At this point I attached the gunport wreaths, which are pressed from brass, after they had been chemically blackened. Once that was done, the second half-round molding / wale was added using the wreaths to space the work. Finally, the lower molding was glued leaving a 5mm gap to the one in the middle. 

Just a note - the kit came with 6 pieces of half-round material for the moldings; two pieces were shorter than the others. The short ones are just long enough to be used for the lower molding / wale. I didn't see anything in the instructions pointing this out. I am glad I pulled all 6 pieces from the wood bundle and made the observation before accidentally using a long piece for the lower molding on this side. 
 
Now to the port side where I have a bit of a problem - it seems that I was provided with 13 gunport wreaths; i.e. 1 short of the needed 14. I've sent an inquiry to Amati asking if they can send me a replacement. I'm not sure how long to wait for a response before having to solve the problem on my own. I'd certainly like all 14 to match exactly but I can see that there is a good possibility that I will need to fashion the missing one myself. 

Log #84: The Topgallant Yard
I continue to slowly pick away at the mainmast. Things are getting really delicate now as there is so much to catch an errant hand on.
 
I have pretty much run out of 0.25mm rope and so had to order some more. As I need this for the topsail bowlines I have two wait before I can finish up the topsail yard. In the meantime I continued to work my way up and next up were the pendant for the topgallant sheets.
 
I had originally planned to use one of the kit provided thimbles, but when I put it on the model it looked completely out of scale so I decided to improvise. First I took a plastic tube I had on hand (I believe it came from a water balloon) and cut off a small piece.

Then I used a sculpting tool to press out the sides to make a thimble.

I then held these on a pin and painted them black. I cut a piece out of each to make them smaller and open on one end so they bended like a teardrop. Then I sized around them.

This was quite a fiddly process and in the end I probably should have just looked harder from some metal I could do this with, but in the end I got them to look ok. Here they are on the model.

Next up was the topgallant yard. This was straight forward with an eye splice that I served over to hold the yard. I used 0.25mm rope based on the steel table.

The line runs through a sheave in the topgallant mast  and down to the base of the mainmast. Here there was a bit of a canundrom. The kit calls for it to be attached to a 4mm double block which then is paired with a 3mm single with a hook attached to the deck (note this double plus single arrangement is also what Peterson describes). However this doesn’t make a lot of sense to me as all the other yards only have two single blocks and they are much bigger and heavier than the topgallant. Furthermore the 0.25mm line looks tiny on the 4mm block. If I had a 3mm double I probably would have used it but in the end I decided to just use two 3mm single blocks. This is also consistent with the Steel table as it only seems to list single blocks for the topgallant halliard.
 
You can see below the upper of these two blocks. As I ran out of 0.25mm rope I can’t finish the tying off of this line until I get the extra I ordered in the mail.

And here is the model in her current state. I am getting close to the end now. Just a few more lines to tie off on the mainmast and then I will be on to the bowsprit.

I took a break from ratlines this morning to work on some shroud cleats that I'll need soon.  My inspiration for how to do these came from a variation of Dan Vadas.  I started with a 4m thick by 10mm wide strip of this random (not sure what it is) hardwood that came from an extra cheeseboard the Admiral got rid of. 
 
 
 
First, I added a slightly thicker (just under 2mm wide) blade on the table saw to notch the sides deeply and the top shallow. The top is shaped with a round sanding tool then a round needle file. 
 
 
 
Varying degrees of VERY light sanding is down to create some shape to the grooves before I switch back to my thinnest table saw blade to cut over 30 cleats at 2mm thick each.  If you're going to follow a similar method - make at least a handful more than you need as quite a few don't survive the process; particularly at this scale.
 
 
 
After the they're cut, the individual cleats are then subject to even more delicate sanding to round out the edges.  More are lost to this process as well regardless of how gently I apply 600 - 1000 grit sand paper. Each survivor is then dipped into water based wipe on poly to provide a modicum of strength for later rigging then left to dry.  
 
 
 
Here's a final product seized to the main foremost shroud to see how it looks.  I mounted it by sticking it in place with the barest touch to CA before seizing it with .10mm line. 
 

 
  I ended up with 28 or so workable cleats, which should be a couple more than I need.  I actually had a pretty difficult time determining exactly how many I'd need. After scouring the FFM images I have, as well as some Swan logs here, I finally came up with a total of 26 - though it appears not all of them are rigged when all is said and done.  Here's my list (applies to both port and starboard sides):
 
Mizzen, Main, and Fore tops  - the first two aft shrouds (12 total). Lower Mizzen - the foremost shroud (2). Lower Fore - the foremost three shrouds (6 total). Lower Main - the first two foremost shrouds and the fourth shroud (6 total).  If someone (maybe one of the Swan experts @dvm27, @Blue Ensign, or @chris watton?) has a solid reference on how many shroud cleats are used and where they're used - I'd appreciate it greatly.
 
 
 
 
 

The ropes on my model are not to scale with respect to the cables. I did it consciously, because I believe that they are a unique decoration of every sailing ship.

Log #83: Tying off the Ropes
Thank you to everyone for looking in and for the encouragement. I always like this stage of the build as the tying off and making rope coils goes very quickly, and so you get lots of visible progress after a long period of preparing the yard off model.
 
I believe I have shown this before but here is my jig for making the rope coils.

The top loop starts out on the pin that in the picture has nothing on it. Then once I have done a few loops I twist it and fold it over. Then I finish the hank by continuing to loop the rope and insert the end into the gap between the two loops for the cleat.
 
Once it is done I use a dab of super glue to fix the loops together and the end of the rope in place and then give it a few blasts with the hair dryer to try and get it to stay in shape.
 
I then slip it onto the cleat and use super glue spots to tack it into place. You can see below I have belayed the topsail lift to the mast cleat on the left and the starboard topsail sheet to the cleat on the right.

Then the larboard topsail sheet was belayed to the left cleat in the below picture. The right cleat is holding the previously belayed squaresail yard.

I am going to hold off on belaying the clewlines until I get the topgallant sheet lines in place so I can make sure they avoid each other. Below you can see the current state of affairs.

Finally done with the stays and backstays. Yards are next. I’m seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.

The Great Ratline Color Debate
 
    Chevy versus Ford.  Coke versus Pepsi.  Boxers versus Briefs.  These are just a few of the most notorious debates in our world.  For those of us here in "ship nerd land" - the color of ratlines is right up there with the others.  I think at this point I've read nearly every post on this forum about ratline colors over the last few months as I've neared this time in the build.  Just as I thought I got to a decision - I'd see something else to change my mind.  Early on I was definitely leaning toward a natural (non-tarred) rope for the ratlines. But as I looked at other builds from some of the most stalwart builders leaning toward darker ratlines - I was swayed that direction.  Then, I see shots of the Victory using tan lines (even though it's obviously using more modern rope) and I started rewatching "Black Sails" for the upteenth time - more tan ratlines.  Ultimately - it because a matter of contrast and aesthetics.  This build is already going to have plenty of contrast between the running and standing rigging, especially since I'll most likely use tan for the crow's feet.  So I finally landed on darker ratlines. 
 
     My lines are a little over .10 mm as that's the smallest rope I can make with three lines of Gutermann Mara 150 spun tightly. I went with a distance of 13" between the lines; which at 1/64 is close to enough to 5mm.  I pulled out some graph paper with 5mm squares and cut it to fit behind the mizzen shrouds - also adjusting the bottom of the graph paper to parallel the ship's lines, then taping it off.
 
  
 
After the first handful of clove hitches at the top, I used my seaman to see if my distance was what I was looking for - he seemed ok with it, so I pressed on.  It should be noted that my first few clove hitches were super bulky because when I looked up a clove hitch to job my memory - I ended up following some funky version that had the line cross back through itself in an odd way.  I took all those knots out and started again with the basic clove hitch getting a much smoother result. 
 
 
 
To avoid the dreaded tugging of the shrouds, I skipped a few ratlines at a time, then went back to make adjustments, and only when I was satisfied did I go back and tighten knots and coat them all with diluted PVA.  
 

 
After giving the glue a day to dry, I'll go back and clean up all the ends and press on to the other side and rest of the masts. 

Thanks so much Brunnels and Bob - appreciate it!   I do enjoy the rigging quite a bit. Sometimes it gets a bit tedious, but definitely reinforces patience.  I do wish my dexterity wasn't slipping as I get older, but not much we can do about that.

The futtock shrouds were pretty straightforward - particularly compared to the catharpins. I'm using my supply of 3 mm deadeyes throughout - even though I do realize they upper deadeyes are to be a bit smaller than the smaller of the lower deadeyes - and the mizzen deadeyes smaller yet. However, I have a pretty large supply of 3mm deadeyes, and the look is comparable in my opinion. So, a compromise I'm willing to make.  I did however, make the futtock plates on the mizzen noticeably  shorter by comparison.
 

 
After the deadeyes are all loaded up, I selected my hooks.  Instead of the supplied hooks - which unlike the deadeyes are clearly too large, I went with my leftover hooks from rigging the cannon.  I'm pretty sure they're from Syren, but I have such a random supply of fittings at this point, I have a difficult time remembering from where my blocks, deadeyes, or hooks etc, all come. At any rate, I did have to widen the holes on these hooks to accept the lines, and definitely broke a few and sent a few flying across the room while doing it.  The  futtock shrouds for the fore and main are .57mm diameter at scale; I'll be using .50.  And the Mizzen shrouds are .44mm; I'm using .40mm.  
 
 
 
  To attach the lines - first I measured the approximate length that I would need - about 50 mm for the fore and mains and 40 mm for the mizzen.  Then I seized them all the to the hooks first.  I attached the hook to the futtock strap, looped it over the stave then seized it to the shroud.  Keeping the line taught while seizing - but not so much that it pulled on the rest of the rigging - was accomplished with a very tiny dab of CA right where the upper seizing would ultimately cover it up. I also alternated from port to starboard with each one to keep the rigging balanced as I went along.
 
  
 

 
 
 

Well, that's where we are at the moment.

I think the books have some errors...
Standard 81T0833

This arrangement is therefore not correct at all.

And is shamelessly copied in the next book.

And this is what it actually looks like in the drawing.
A channel or rigging rail a little bit lower.
The Calderkraft model also follows this arrangement. Thanks @Mr Pleasant 
 
 
And so does our Russian colleague.
https://www.shipmodeling.ru/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=71379  thanks @firdajan

next
horizontal planking or curved straight
Most from this period seem to go for horizontal.
The curved straight ones are starting to become a bit old-fashioned in this period, it seems to me

Thanks for following

Only partly because a short business trip took me out of the yard for a few days - the catharpins have taken quite a bit more time than I would have liked.  Others have said as much, but I am here to reiterate - these things are SUPER fiddly to get anywhere near correct. Each one has to be measured perfectly to link the shrouds under the mast tops, but that measurement is quite difficult to maintain when making the eye splices on the ends. I started by serving a .45mm diameter rope for the length that I would need to make all eight of the catharpins.  Then, for each one I would start with an eye loop, remeasure the distance using a small piece of timber placed against the shrouds, then cut the other end of the catharpin a quarter inch long, unwind the served rope, then feed that serving thread through the line itself to create the splice, then wrap the thread to finish it. 

 
I had at least three than despite every effort ended up being just off enough to not work out.  To get the catharpin attached to the shroud, I started by attaching one end at the bottom of the shroud, then feed the guy up to the futtock stave, pinch the other end to the opposite shroud, and then tie both sides off using a needle to feed the seizing through the eyeloop and around the shroud. It took about an hour for each catharpin start to finish.

  
   The last two pictures are the fore and main finished.  There are a couple that are a smidge loose, but will tighten up when I attach the futtock shrouds. 
 
 
 
 
 

In the meantime, i continued with the fore castle basis.
 
This time I checked in time whether any problems will arise with the schrouds.

So yes, my cardboard structure was much too wide at the top. Error corrected just in time.

The base starts at an angle of 45° following the (few) remains of the fore castle. And then with a curve upwards. As always too high or too long, shortening later is easier than lengthening.

Applying the second was a little more challenging.

Additional temporary supports were then installed. And i continued with finishing the waist. 

Gluing done on starboard side, now on to port side. Sanding is for later.

Since I'm starting the fore castle earlier than planned, I haven't looked at this properly yet.
According to what I have read briefly, it should look like it is drawn on the cover of the MR book.
2 light cannons and all the are rest swivels, or hail shot pieces 

I've seen these images before. 

This isn’t a carrack.

Carracks from mr. Breugel with high castles.

 
And a wel know image of a typical Carrack 

In the MR book there is an inventory (from the year 1514) of the cannons and their position on the decks in several ships. 
All the large ships (4 of them) have at least 2 decks in the fore castle 

Perhaps, we're digressing a bit, but this specific topic is worth expanding and maybe other Pegasus fans might benefit from this.
Comparison between a 18 lbs gun  ( my La Vénus -project )and the  gun + carriage provided with the  HMS Pegasus Amati kit.
Although it is also worth mentioning that regarding this French ship, the eyebolt was fixed more in the rear of the carriage ( according to the Boudriot plan ), which creates even more space for the rigging.
 
SO : I've made my mind up. 
 
PS : I do not entend to use the Amati kit's falconets 
 
 

Obviously it was extraordinarily humbling and intimidating to have been asked to complete Augie's Confederacy.  Aside from his excellent work, Augie was an extremely popular gentleman on the forum, and for all the right reasons.  Quite simply, he was just a great guy.
 
    I can honestly say, I did my best for him, and I hope he's happy with the end result. Thank you all SO much for following along and providing such great support.
 
  Here are a couple of shots of the finished ship. More images will soon be up in the Gallery of Completed Builds, and once that is done I'll update this log accordingly.
 

Thanks very much Christian.  I was so apprehensive about the rigging portion, I ended up taking almost a year and half off of the build!   It was a combination of deciding to spin my own rope, as well as this being the most complicated rigging I'd faced.  Once I got back into it though, I was happy I did. The complexity is actually an asset as it forces me to slow down and really take it one step at a time.
 
Also - although it has ended up being a lot more work to spin rope, it has helped quite a bit as I can size it as needed. 

This is sound advice, Bug
Sincere thanks for your input.
The moreover, here's some pics of my San Felipe ( finished in 2006 ) : no rigging of the guns or falconets whatsoever. Which I deeply regret. The fact that this build proceeded my MSW membership may be just a convenient excuse.
The point is : if I had the choice between  :
1) let us call it a minimalistic approach ( less  eyebolts )
2) the whole package, with a high possibility I'll create a jumble of threads & knots
3) no rigging at all
 
I'll settle for the first option.
Another thing : let us not forget that a 18lbs gun carriage ( my previous build HMS Diana ) is way bigger
 
Aside, a word about the colors.
I'm a bit reluctant painting the guns 100% black, so I went for the AV 70862 Black Grey and a highlighted a bit the edges and collars with AV 70864 Natural Steel. Just a try out

Perhaps, we're digressing a bit, but this specific topic is worth expanding and maybe other Pegasus fans might benefit from this.
Comparison between a 18 lbs gun  ( my La Vénus -project )and the  gun + carriage provided with the  HMS Pegasus Amati kit.
Although it is also worth mentioning that regarding this French ship, the eyebolt was fixed more in the rear of the carriage ( according to the Boudriot plan ), which creates even more space for the rigging.
 
SO : I've made my mind up. 
 
PS : I do not entend to use the Amati kit's falconets 
 
 

Did some exterior painting today. This was a bit of an experiment for me as the deep blue was done with a watercolor paint.

I am now done smoothing the hull. In the previous post, I had smoothed the hull as best possible with paper as fine as 180 grit. I've now gone over the planking with 220 grit sandpaper - this is the finest that I will be using. Here's the starboard side again; not sure if there is any visual difference, but it is now glassy smooth to the touch.

One final picture at this stage of the planking from the bottom / aft looking forward.

I believe the next step will be some painting. I no longer like the current interior red I had chosen. Now I'd like it to be a deeper darker shade. I also need to make some decisions on the amount of coloring that will be used on the exterior. I think that there will be some exterior paint, but not anywhere near the amount shown on the model as presented in the kit. In my mind the planking looks too nice to cover up with paint.

Post One Hundred and Seventy
 
Completing the Cutter.
 
Apart from painting the bottom Ivory, and the wale Black/grey, the boat will be finished using w-o-p only.
 
The rudder is a plain laser cut affair intended I think to simply display in the sternsheets of the boat. There are no fixings to hang the rudder either on the stern post, transom, or rudder.
 
I chose to add these fittings including a tiller of the yoke type.

4287
Still requires a little further fining down, this is the third attempt which may still break.

4289
Trial fitting the rudder.; a few tweaks required.
 
One consequence of changing the rowing arrangement from double to single banking is that the provided oars are too short for purpose.

4290
They are fairly easily modified but it does require using two oars to produce one. 
To improve the look of the oars the blades should really be thinned towards the tip.

4295

4298

4299

4311
Set -up for single banked rowing.

4302

4306

4307
I quite like the look of her on the skids and the Pinnace and Cutter don’t obscure much of the Main deck.
 
B.E.
16/04/2024