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DB789

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  1. DB789
    Thanks again Glenn. The Jack is still not quite complete as I have to add the coils of rope where I can. As most sheets and stays run to the belaying pin racks where there is no room for coils I won’t be adding coils to all rope ends, just a few. Completed the deck clutter. Painting the resin hull of the cutter to look like wood was a challenge. So I experimented, firstly all was painted with Tamiya red brown then a coat of raw sienna oil paint painted over the top which was next to invisible on the Tamiya but provided a medium for the burnt umber darker oil paint to be dragged into. All as per James H’s instructions for the winch drum but with a darker base paint. It worked to some extent but the boat is a darker brown than I’d have chosen. - I need to buy some more oil paint colours. I then added the pear wood parts and smeared these unevenly with burnt umber. Then sprayed the lot with a Matt acrylic spray varnish to seal it and painted on a green blue pale enamel paint around the first strake and the top of the edges. The oars needed some very careful sanding to shape them. Its turned out ok enough to include on the Jack but a bit darker brown and given the clinkering on the hull I didn’t think I’d get a clean line to paint white anti-fouling on the hull. Also prepped the barrels and crates in the same way. The banding on the barrels was painted with a Humbrol metallic gunmetal as was the anchor. They look quite good aboard ship.
  2. DB789
    Topsail and topsail yard fitted. I’ve found it hard to use the belaying pin rack behind the mast. Really hard to get the lines to loop around the bottom of the belaying pin. There must be a technique for this, I just don’t know it? Then finished off the rigging and added the jib sails. The rigging was the most challenging I’ve attempted yet, she’s a little more complicated than Nisha and I had some difficulty ensuring that all the lines stayed taught, a few have quite a bit of tension on them which isn’t ideal. She’s largely complete now, so some more comprehensive photos. Yet another excellent kit from Vanguard that’s produced another lovely looking boat despite my building skills. I simply couldn’t get all the lines onto the belaying rack so I tied some off on the loops in the deck at the mast base. I’m very reliant on CA glue to seal each knot, but it discolours the thread and often makes it stiff and straight for the first 3-5mm - is there a better approach to tying the knots? Over the next few days I’ll be adding some coiled ropes and some deck clutter to finish her off. Deck clutter will be the anchor, boat, crates and barrels mostly included in the kit. There’s also a little touching up of paint to be done before signing her off.
  3. DB789
    Your Sphinx looks stunning. I hope I’ll have the skill and patience to build her one day.
  4. DB789
    Glenn, I’ll be following closely as I’ll be starting my Erycina very soon. Thanks for all the advice on Saucy Jack which is nearly complete.
  5. DB789
    Thanks Glenn, that’s a very sensible idea. I’ll do that next time.
  6. DB789
    Thanks Glenn. Ratlines now complete. Fairly straightforward - only query is whether it’s better to start at the bottom and work up or top and work down? I started at the bottom and by the time I reached the top I’d added sufficient tension to the shrouds that the bottom ratline on each side is sagging and may need redoing. This is the trickiest ratline to adjective as it’s onto the deadeye seizings not not plain shroud. Also added the port and starboard mast stays and one of two forward stays. The standing rigging is mostly complete except for the second forward stay which runs to the end of the bowsprit. Bowsprit is now glued in place. Small clumsy accident in that I managed to catch the top mast on my sleeve and break the tip off where there is a hole in the mast. Slightly messy break but have fixed it using CA glue (titebond wasn’t strong enough for this). You can just about make out the break in the photos above.
  7. DB789
    The Jack has her shrouds fitted now. I’ve tried to do these properly on her in the correct sequence using the same piece of thick thread with a deadeye in each end looped around the cross trees in the mast. First pair shown below. Rest of the shrouds fitted. With hindsight the deadeyes are a little too high, the shrouds a little short and the lanyards too long, but not a big enough mistake to warrant redoing them.
  8. DB789
    Thanks Chris, that’s due to yet another excellent kit from you. Much appreciated.
  9. DB789
    Chris sent me the replacement sails very promptly as always! Once I had these I decided to experiment with the old set to see what happens if I try and dye on top of the brown. So I put the already dyed sails into a litre of hot water with two drops of RIT dye “Scarlet” and stirred them for just five minutes before dishing them out. Amazingly they went almost the colour I was originally looking for which is a pinky orange colour as per the box art. So I didn’t need the new sails after all. I’ve not had much time on the Jack this week but have added all the blocks attached to the hull, mast and spars and today I’ve added the mast rings and attached the mainsail to the main gaff. The photo below is taken in a very yellow light so not the real colour of the sails. I use a clove hitch to attach the main gaff which may be inaccurate as there are two ropes around the gaff at the attachment point but is the knot I find easiest to use. A view of the blocks on the mast. I much prefer Chris’s pear wood blocks which are an extra over the walnut ones supplied with the kit. I don’t always have the right sizes available so some are 4mm when they should be 3mm and some are 3mm, bit of a muddle and not something I thought through before fitting them. Mast stepped. Temporary piece of rigging keeping the main gaff up and sail out of way for when I start the shrouds. Main boom and main gaff fitted. Bowsprit in place but will remove whilst doing the shrouds so I don’t break it by accident. I’ll take some better photos in daylight tomorrow so the new sail colour can be seen, it’s much softer than it appears in these photos.
  10. DB789
    Thanks Mike great advice, pls do share some photos of your Saucy Jack and the dyed sails on this log. I’d be really interested to see the colour you’ve achieved and how your Jack is progressing. Dan
  11. DB789
    Glenn, Yes, Chris is super at sending replacement parts out. I don't quite know how he and his wife manage to do everything and provide excellent customer service too. We'll likely be building Erycina at the same time then, I'll be doing a build log but likely less detailed than this one as Erycina has quite a few build logs already. My Saucy Jack won't take very long to finish now once I replace the sails. I'm going to attach some blocks, etc. whilst I wait for the sails rather than start Erycina. I'm looking forward to Alert, but already dreading cutting the gun ports. Mike, Are you building Saucy Jack too? Is there a build log? I'm trying to get to roughly the colour James H achieved on the prototype Saucy Jack which just used Rit Dye "Tan" and is a much softer colour than on the later fishing boats. I did lots of swatches for my Nisha build to get to a ruddy red brick colour - see my Nisha build - link below. I tried lots of swatches but used cotton like that in T-shirts for my samples. The end result from using exactly the same mixture on cotton swatches and Vanguard's premium linen sails was completely different. The end result worked really well, but wasn't what I was aiming for. It may be the same for tea-based dye. Be very interested in your results for my Erycina build.
  12. DB789
    Well I’ve messed up the sail dyeing. I used RIT “Tan” and clearly far too much and for too long. The colour looked so weak initially that I kept adding more dye. Ended up with sails an ugly matt brown colour. Not what I was aiming for at all. I’ve ordered a replacement set of sails from Chris… an expensive mistake. Unfortunately there’s not a lot more building I can do on this boat until they arrive. The mast and spars are ready, except the topsail spar which won’t take long to build. My wife gave me the Erycina kit for my birthday recently so she’ll be my next build before I attempt HMS Alert. I may start on her skeleton whilst I wait for the new sails
  13. DB789
    Thanks Glenn, I’ll try that next time.
  14. DB789
    Thanks Allan. The Jack’s hull is now complete. The channels were fitted and needed two cut off pins each to attach them to the side of the hull. All as per the instructions and lined up perfectly. Deadeyes and their holders and other PE rigging hoops and attachments were added to the hull. The winch was added forward. I used the methodology for painting the resin drum of the winch as though it is wood that James H details in his build log which entails dragging a darker oil paint into a paler beige oil paint. It produces a highly realistic result. A notch was sanded in the starboard gunwale to accommodate the bowsprit as per the method in the instructions and the anchor cable holes were drilled out. Other PE such as the cleats and belaying pins were attached. As was the PE frieze on the stern. Also the rudder and tiller. The latter needs sanding to give it a sanded shape. Is the tiller to scale - it seems large and high compared to the companionway? I notice it does on Nisha too? Maybe they were just big. I tried to coat the exposed wood on the hull with wipe on poly. Living in the UK I don’t think you can buy wipe on poly so instead I mixed 50:50 Vallejo matt polyurethane varnish and white spirits. This didn’t work well and just seemed to strip the oils out of the wood leaving it looking pale and tired - not sure what I did wrong?! After this debacle I treated the exposed wood with straight polyurethane varnish which seemed to revive it somewhat. Time to dye the sails tomorrow. Aiming for a colour similar to James H achieved on the prototype which is much more soft pink / orange than the later fishing boats. So they’ll probably end up dark brown…
  15. DB789
    Chris very kindly and very promptly sent me the replacement parts I needed. The rubbing strakes fitted around the hull much easier than I expected, particularly with my slightly bulging bulwark on the starboard side which with judicious sanding and now the rubbing strake is largely invisible. What did throw me is that both the upper and lower rubbing strakes are longer than they need to be. I’m so used to Chris’s laser cut parts fitting precisely that I thought I’d made a mistake but it seems not and cut them to size. The upper rubbing strakes required more care as there is an area where the channels are glued and some other holes that need to be on the right place on the hull. Measuring against the plans I found that fitting the strake at the bow and cutting any excess off at the stern left everything in the right place. The lower rubbing strakes did need some shaping at the stern to fit. These were then repainted and I used PVA plus pear dust filler to fill the small holes below between the stern counter and the planking. Inboard I fitted the belaying pin racks…. … and then the already painted black gunwales. Needed some more sanding at the stern to get the stern gunwale flat. Then applied Danish oil to the engraved deck to give it some more definition and the inner bulwarks and belaying racks. The previously assembled grating was also fitted. Now ready for some deck furniture to be glued down. Front hatch, mast base ring, another belaying pin rack, the capstan and companion way also added. One thing I should have done much earlier and before spraying the hull white is fit the rudder hinges which are now a different white to the hull.
  16. DB789
    Jonathan, thank you - that’s a huge help. Best wishes Dan
  17. DB789
    Now for another of those beginner questions. Lots of build logs suggest using wipe-on poly but I read it’s not available in the UK. Is there a good alternative or can you mix it? If so how? I’ve been using either straight polyeurethane varnish and/or Danish oil. If I can mix it how do I apply it and should it be used with Danish oil or on its own. I’m thinking particularly for the exposed pear planks on the hull. Thanks for any advice!
  18. DB789
    First layer of paint and filler. Plenty to patch up, but I’m not after a flawless finish, I want to see the planking through the white paint as this a working fishing boat after all. Hull now painted. Needs a tiny bit of tidying up around the waterline with a scalpel. Starting to look the part. The scruffy line between the bulwark and the first plank will be covered by a black rail / rubbing strake. With all the fittings, masts and spars added but not glued. Looking good I think! Just as I’m counting my chickens on this build that not much has broken so far. I broke one of the rails and a gunwale in short order whilst sanding them. Both in two places and the gunwale had splintered beyond repair. I’ve emailed Chris and he’s kindly offered to sell me a new sheet with these pear parts on it. May delay the build by a few days. In the meantime, most of the mast and spars are complete. Very easy to put together.
  19. DB789
    James, Your build log and instructions have been invaluable building the Saucy Jack. Thank you. I really like the colour of your sails, please could I ask what your concentration of RIT tan due to water was and roughly how long you left them in to soak for? Many thanks Dan
  20. DB789
    Thanks Glen. Deck is now glued down. The hole that the capstan goes into needs to be deepened as the frames run beneath it. Colour contrast in the photo below adjusted so it’s visible. Easy to fix - I’ve used a drill bit to deepen it a little and cut the dowel on the capstan shorter. Waterline marking was really easy on this boat using the Vanguard waterline marker, I measured up from the keel at the stem and rudder posts and then used the marker to join them. No adjustment was needed amidships. The rudder was fitted temporarily and not glued. The outer stern frame was painted black and then fitted. Whilst I prefer her name in white on a green background this was harder to achieve than I expected and is still a little rough at the edges. The problem was that the engraved name has dark brown laser char at the bottom which is not a good surface for a white Tamiya acrylic paint and was quite difficult to cover neatly. Maybe I should have primed first or used enamels for this, but the surrounding area is also acrylic (Tamiya Flat Green XF-5) and I think that you can’t paint over enamel with acrylic if you make a mistake. End result is OK but not ideal. Next the timberheads were fitted and glued. The system used on this boat is so much easier to fit. There is a very small limitation that if your hull is not the perfect shape then some timberheads may not line up exactly with the engraved lines on the inner bulwark and there’s no scope for adjustment. On my far from perfect hull the forward timberheads lined up, but not those aft. The difference is only slight and not very noticeable. I also painted the top of the outer bulwarks green. The lower hull below the waterline was filled and sanded down. Then the waterline taped so the first layer of white primer can be sprayed in the hull. I do a first line with normal Tamiya masking tape and then onto that I tape Tamiya tape that comes with a plastic bag attached. Bit of a gimmick but it saves time! So far, the kit has been excellent and any of the problems have been entirely self-inflicted!
  21. DB789
    Second planking finished. Some sanding but no filling yet in the photos below. Biggest mistake was not leaving room for a useable rabbet at the bow which has left the planking at the bow a little untidy. Next build I’ll have a plane and vice to enable more accurate tapering and I’ll attempt to measure off and use tick marks to make the planking look more professional. Fixed the broken stern board. Next removed the bulkhead ears ready for the deck. Deck fitted but not yet glued. Looks like I need to sand and move it forward 0.5mm so the hatches align with the sub-deck. Chris has come up with an innovative way of adding the timberheads without having to glue lots of these individually. I’ve decided to paint these green in keeping with the green stern frames. Timberheads only held in place below.
  22. DB789
    Thanks Glenn. You’ll make short work of this cute little boat after mastering Sphinx! I’ll likely make Erycina next too, although I have bought a Vanguard Alert and I’m a little tempted to have a change and break my straight of four Vanguard fishers so far.
  23. DB789
    She looks superb!
  24. DB789
    Closing the gap at the bottom of the bulwarks where it curved around bulkheads 1 and 2 was harder than expected even having dampened the bulwark, used elastic bands and drawing pins. I didn’t do so sufficiently before starting the second planking - so there’s a slight bulge there on the starboard side - probably noticeable to no one but me - I couldn’t make it show on a photo. I also managed to break the top off the stern counter. It’s a clean break and should glue on easily. I’m leaving it off whilst working on the second planking. My breakage count on this model is far lower than for Nisha so I’m doing something right and taking a bit more time. Starboard second planking is complete. Focus was ensuring it looks good for the above waterline unpainted areas. Below the waterline I’ve split most planks into two and staggered the joins. Needs more sanding and some filling. I did taper at the bow but not enough and didn’t use tick marks so the final plank was a sliver amidships. The bow suffered a little from not having a deep enough rebate - my failing for not marking out the stem cladding before first planking to ensure there is a sufficient gap. Needs some more tidying and filling. The hardest bit was “turning the corner” where the planking joins the rudder post next to the counter. Needed several stealers here. Looks messy below but will sand down fine and look OK painted. The Jack’s hull isn’t terribly difficult to plank but it also isn’t the easiest due to it being quite curvaceous and was a little harder than Nisha and the Fifie but easier than the Zulu. Port side next.
  25. DB789
    Thanks Glenn, I’ve followed your advice and sanded it level. It’s not very noticeable. Unless looked at from this angle. The instructions don’t say to do so but I’ve soaked the outer bulwarks for 30 mins in hot water and then clamped them on overnight to gain the correct shape. There’s still a gap at the bottom of the bulkhead but I’ll use drawing pins when it comes to gluing.

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