rudybob
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Everything posted by rudybob
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Thanks!! Great Just Great. That data is hard to find. I found this. Is it correct, one direction only? And what is being illustrated with the file direction?
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Not much time for working on the pinnace because it was chimney cleaning day. Worth it. The time I had was well spent. Now that I have fit the sheers so many times I see better where I over faired. This models bulkheads were not cut square when I look down them vertically so they need some fairing that way as well. I need direct window daylight for best vision so I had no opportunity to continue work on rabbet making. Maybe tomorrow
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RudyBob A Walton Kinda name
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Tanks are cool. I avoided doing one because I did not want to do all those wheels. Now I laugh cause planking is repetitious which is what I wanted to avoid. I did break down and have a Pershing that needs warmer weather to finish. My paint booth is outdoors and I want to spray the body before I do the fine touches. Your model looks great. KA BOOOM
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I thought it possible that someone would think that. I reflected at that time and was sure that no one would be offended. I was wrong. I work in plastic. It's fun. I also craft in plastic. On the cheap I wanted a Gloster Gladiator on skis but would not fork over for a kit at the asking price. I bought an Airfix and made my own skis from unused bombs and sprue. I hope everyone has fun. It was merely a question In my morning e-mail I saw a nice Imperial Russian Steam Launch at an incredible price. It has pre spiled and bent sprue. I would have bought it but I don't stash models. That was the genesis of my question
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To me most of the point is gone even though I am bad at spiling and bending. Of course it might bring more folk to the hobby What's your view
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Endurance by john D - OcCre
rudybob replied to john D's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day
It is a handsome ship. Have fun -
spile from here to here
rudybob replied to rudybob's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I used CA and not all that well. A strake let loose on the other side which was nice because I tuned that one. I have had success filing the one in the picture down. The gap is much less and I can see the rising strake at the bow that I really didn't before. I won't x-acto cause it would not be x-acto but rather slippo wrongo by me but I can sand and have a couple sharp dental picks. It's coming along but the shop is closed until tomorrow. Thanks -
spile from here to here
rudybob replied to rudybob's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
You are correct but I need it to match the other side more than I need to worry about squeezing. It was a lapse of mine to let it get this far so crooked but there was nothing for it then. There is now though. As they say at the Barber Shop...Take a little off the top is just what I will do cause that's part of it. Thanks for your reply it was real helpful -
It's where I think I should concentrate based on the bowing. I am hitting my ticks marks. Am I correct?
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I'm laughin' here. Not at you guys but at me taking things so literally. I have read guys plank bending methodologies, so many, but pretty similar. I think I have tried most to a small degree and settled on dry heat. Initially I didn't think dry heat meant no water but I did read what I thought was guys eschewing water all together so that's what I have been doing. Bending is slow that way. I tried putting water on the planks while in situ but...I don't know how good that is so I even quit that. So DRY HEAT means heat it until it dries? Did that too. I am going back to it for some of my bends. Problem for me is the two direction bend. Get it set one way then when I wet it for the other way...BYE Bye bend. I laughed at myself for that one too Why am I laughing now? When I was a kid my Dad said I have to eat dry cereal. I waited until he left and asked Mom if I couldn't put milk on it. She laughed until she cried. Me, Mr Literal
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My hair dryer gets hot. Not as hot as an iron. I have held the iron on bass strakes and they aren't burning. My thought is I can hold the hair dryer as close as feasible and blast it for quite awhile and no "harm" done. These planks don't have any moisture content left to speak of so I can't see shrinkage being an issue. Am I wrong. My house is and has been running at 15-20% humidity. How long and from what distance should I blow heat the strake? Is it the same for all strake areas or based on curve needed?
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Thanks all. I did searching, reading and testing prior to posting. I got to a point that no matter how long and hard I looked and thought I hit a wall on this. I was shaving the top...no reason I can't do both depending what my eyes tell me
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Or does it matter? I am working at the bow. I just don't know and ashamed to even ask
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Pages 3-8 helped me a great deal https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/resources/ChapterchapFour.pdf
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I think the sheer strake should fit flush with the top of each bulkhead. Looking at the picture in the instruction manual that is what I think I see. As I dry fit the sheer strake it is not flush on each bulkhead. While looking at build log photos I see where some bulkheads are above the sheer strake esp at the bow. Which is how my build is progressing. I am not saying wrong or right...I certainly don't know. My question is: Am I right, should the sheer strake be flush with each bulkhead and if it isn't is there any reason I can't sand it flush later ? Here is the picture. NOT MY BUILD It could be wood temporarily added or maybe just the angle
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I have greater bend in it now. My concern wasn't getting it bent I was wondering if the depth of the rabbet should hold it in place. As I kept eyeballing it I decided to make a very small angle cut at the end of the strake. It helped keep the strake in the rabbet. Yea, Fairing is a process. I have some 1/32 balsa I have been sticking along the bulkhead, not ideal but it's what I have presented myself with. I understand what you mean by filling the area. Thanks.
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I have been thinking about this and looking at guy's pictures. I am fairing that first bulkhead, I am slightly tapering the end of the strake that fits in the rabbet. My question is: Do I want that rabbet to be able to hold the strake down without glue. Of course I will glue it in on final. As I fit it, even clamped it will pop out. So, do I need to deepen the rabbet or fair the first bulkhead more or thin the strake. It wouldn't surprise me if this didn't make enough sense to be answerable so here is the area Thanks
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When I hold the strake in my hand I think...NO WAY this is going to fit. Then I put it in place and it really fits. I am happy. I could not have done this without the serious help I get in this forum. Thanks Men! Where's MY GLUE ? ....just kidding :-) More stuff to do before permanence sets in
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This is great and I intend to try it out. Thank You
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Yes. I have plenty of shim material and intend to do just that. Thanks. "iterative" A new word for me. I like that
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Good Luck
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I did tick off the bulkheads. It was a mess. I was able to do it quite nicely on the center bulkheads but as the bulkheads were not flat because I faired them at the bow and stern the tick marks were quite difficult for me and this difficulty led to the mess. I intend to revisit the ticking after I get those first two planks on as was suggested to me. Fairing. I faired the bow. I did that much only because I wanted to check my work before I made a mash of all the bulkheads. When I started laying strakes I could easily tell my fairing was wrong. This led me to conclude, right or wrong, that at my skill level I should wait to fair until I see how the strake will lie at any given bulkhead. When I read that fairing was done and planking was begun I interpreted that as "fair and forget" I think fairing needs to be done generally first then more specifically for my abilities. You are absolutely correct about the frame. I did the framing VERY BADLY and noticed this myself. There is nothing that I can think to do at this point. Starting new would be the only solution to fix that. I don't want to. I am willing to put up with the frustration as a trade off for continuing this model. I could buy a new one but that would assume I was not going to make other mistakes on it. Thanks for your reply it was very helpful
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