rtropp
-
Posts
935 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by rtropp
-
I have used a product called "Model Lite - a lightweight filler." It is by Deluxe Materials. I can't remember where I got it, probably either Hobbylinc or Amazon. At first, I thought it was too light, i.e., weightless. When wet it was very easy to shape and when it dried it was solid, extremely smooth and easy to sand. It worked well to fill gaps in single planking. It was also good in other areas where there were some gaps, such as a deck cabin. It took airbrushing well, but I did not try staining. Richard
-
thanks all, now I just have to wait for the new compressor and air brush to arrive. Richard
-
I just bought an airbrush compressor that sits on a 3-liter air tank. It has an air/water filter at the pressure gauge. Should I also use one at the airbrush end of the hose? thanks Richard
-
Thanks all, I guess as I run across wood that looks like it would work I should at least give it a try. It seems to contain "luck of the draw" elements. I found I can't always tell how accurate the pictures depict color and grain. I shall stick with some of the dealers that are mentioned on the site. Richard
-
So, I did some testing and allanyed was spot on. The glue was very helpful when I need to fix an already mounted piece. Sometimes when mounting a difficult part I don't want to have to remove it to add glue. But drying takes forever and it does leak to unintended places. But, for pre-mounted parts it is a real help, just need to wait a while before sanding it back. Richard
-
Thanks all for your thoughts. I'm thinking that I would be better of trying to find a good source for costello and swiss pear. I may buy one or two boards just to see what it is like but would probably be better off with tried and true. Richard
-
Has anyone heard of this wood. If so, would it be a decent replacement for Boxwood. Its description says, "Izombe by the Piece - Fine texture and warm golden tones make Izombe pleasing to both touch and eye—color is very stable over time!"
-
I will need to check on the drying issue. I had not noticed it at first but have not tried sanding. I was checking on diluting a titebond or others like it on this on MSW but seemed to get less than positive responses. That do not seem to have the wicking quality which is what first attracted me to CA thin and then to Super Phatic. Thanks for the tips. Richard
-
I experimented with Super Phatic glue, and it seems to work. I used it after adding a wet plank to a number of bulkheads over a very irregular shaped stern. Lots of bending. First the plank was molded to shape by soaking and then added to a number of stern bulkheads with clamps, rubber bands and some nails to form the appropriate shape. Then I added the Super Phatic after the plank dried all the while leaving it on the bulkheads the whole time. I utilized the glue's wicking qualities along the joined plank edges and again at each bulkhead. It seems to have worked pretty well and was a lot quicker and easier to add the glue without removing and replacing the plank. I am wondering what, if any, are the downsides of using Super 'Phatic that I should consider. Thanks. Richard
-
Thanks for the help. Richard
-
are these the same as the set of plans that were available in 2014? If not, what is different. I am considering this for my next build so am curious. thanks
-
While I use mostly PVA there are times when doing complex joins or following lousy plans that I may have to deconstruct and do it again. In those moments of doubt, I will use CA so that I can take the join apart with acetate to avoid causing problems with other joins nearby.
-
Thank you all for your responses. They were very helpful. It does not appear that anyone has tried an electronic Nailer vs push Nailer. I'm guessing there is a darn good reason. So I will continue to use rubber bands and modified bulldog clips. Richard by the way, in answer to your question this is a single planking that will be painted.
-
I am not having a great deal of success with push pins (arthritis). Any thoughts on using an electric or battery powered pin nailer? I would use it for planking or other similar, temporary tacking rather than one of the push hammers such as that on micromark. If yes is anyone able to recommend one? Thanks, Richard
-
Ed, I had not thought of trying that. I will give it a try on my current mill. Michael, do you have to use the sherline milling vise or can another be used? Thanks, Richard
-
I tried this a while ago with my current micro mill. (In fact I think i still have it somewhere.) One problem for me was that I did not see a way to create a stop point for the drilling. So, both accuracy and repeatability became a problem. Also, using the drilling attachment was not as comfortable, accurate as using a standard lever. Probably just habit and preference but I found myself using my Proxxon whenever I had to drill multiple holes. Thanks for the advice. Richard
-
I use a mill for drilling also. (Space is at a premium in my shop.) My difficulty with Sherline is that working the drill requires turning a wheel, a very finely tuned wheel, rather than pulling a lever as in a drill press. After a few holes, I find the wheel awkward, a pain for most drilling tasks. It takes a lot of turning. Sherline does have this jiggly attachment that lets you lower the drill bit but it seems a bit kludgy and still a pain for repetitive hole drilling. Richard
-
I am selling unopened Ajax and Falmouth kits. Make an offer but please be reasonable. Ajax Falmouth Thanks Richard
-
Looking for info on scroll saws.
rtropp replied to Moab's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
GRSX, wondered how often you use the tilt table? -
Non-glossy CA??
rtropp replied to rtropp's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks for the help. I will test a few finishes to see which works best for me. On another note, I thought I once read about a pva that works like thin CA. You can set up the pieces then at the seam the pva will "seep" into the crack. Anyone herd of this? Richard -
I like using CA. It is quick tacking and with arthritis it is difficult to hand clamp parts even for short periods. My question is whether there is a Matte finish CA type glue. Thanks, Richard
-
Copper Tape vs Plates
rtropp replied to Keithbrad80's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The links above will help tremendously, especially the jig for stamping the plates. One lesson I learned the hard way is that any finger prints, grease, dirt, etc. will cause sticking problems with copper tape, if not right away then eventually. I carefully washed my hands every time I returned to the coppering process. At times I actually wore white collectors type gloves, but the cotton ones can get fuzz on the plates so I used the nylon. Richard. -
Clarification of wolding for the Victory Cross Section
rtropp replied to rtropp's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Allan, I appreciate the help. I have obtained a copy of Lee's book and it is going to be very helpful as I try to work my way through masts and rigging. Thanks, Richard -
I am about to add the wolding (cross bands with no number in the plans??) to the mainmast of the Corel Victory cross section. The mast has what they refer to as "mast finishing. These are a pair of long, vertical strips and a pair of short vertical strips. It appears that the wolding goes under the long pair (part 60) and over the short pair (part 59). Am I reading this correctly? Thanks, Richard
-
I will buy HMN Swan Class 1767-1780 Vol 4 By Antscherl ISBN 978-0-9820579-8-8. - $15.00. (water damage top binding area) It will be shipped to 30223 Richard
Our Emblem ®
