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rtropp
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Janos, I now see that there are the two threads about speed control. I receive emails of the conversations I am following and my practice is to select the "topic can be found here..." link to go to the thread. Without realizing it I ended up in the two, similar threads. This probably has been confusing things for me a little. Lesson learned... Thanks, Richard
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Mark, I was thinking of the Proxxon sanding pen that requires a transformer. I should have realized that Micromark would sell a similar item. If the speed control is not a big deal, the Micromark without transformer would be the more convenient option. Thanks for the info, Richard
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Thanks, Feels good to get a bargain these days. Especially when it is a hobby. Richard
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Bulwarks: ply vs solid wood
rtropp replied to rtropp's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thank you all. I saw mention of Birch Plywood. Is that the preferred plywood for frames and bulkheads? Richard -
Proxxon transformer - speed control for Pen Sander?
rtropp replied to rtropp's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Meredith, I appreciate your looking that up. On Amazon the Proxxon 38706 Transformer NG 2/S is $23.90 U.S. Dollars and the Proxxon 38704 Heavy Duty Transformer NG 5/E (with speed control) is $58.18. A much greater difference. Other sites I have searched are even more expensive. Can you tell me where you got your prices? Even if it has to be shipped in, it might be much cheaper. Thanks, Richard -
Proxxon transformer - speed control for Pen Sander?
rtropp replied to rtropp's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Meredith, do you find yourself using the speed control very much with the pen sander? Richard -
Proxxon transformer - speed control for Pen Sander?
rtropp replied to rtropp's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thanks Grant, I bought pen with basic transformer so I saved some for the next tool. Richard -
I am building the Syren and am not really happy with the plywood used for the bulkheads. I thought I had read that plywood was preferred for some reason but cannot recall if that is accurate. Thus my question, what wood is best for the frame and bulkheads? Thank You, Richard
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I am considering the Proxxon Pen Sander. Can anyone with experience with this tool tell me if a transformer with a speed control is important. The price difference with and without speed control is considerable. I am not using any other 12 volt tools. Thank You, Richard
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Mark, just saw your post about the pen sander. I am considering one. Do you think the transformer with the speed control is necessary? If not, the set up would be a lot cheaper. Thanks.
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Mighty Mite Mini Table Saw Good or Bad?
rtropp replied to DSiemens's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I am trying to decide on a table saw. The choices seem to be between Byrnes($450), Micromark ($344), and Proxxons ($364 for the37070FET, or $125 for the KS115). While the Proxxon and Micromark are pretty close in Price the Byrnes is more. This does not take into account accessories. As a retiree on a budget, price is important, but considering the manhours put into this, quality would be even more important. I plan at some point to try my hand at scratch built so do not want to have to reinvest. The question is how much difference is there in quality and features between these saws for the ship model builder. For instance, does variable speed or tilting table matter that much? Richard -
I had not thought about the ammonia/odor issue. Good point. I will try Windex and Liquitex airbrush medium. I am staying away from solvent based because they would seem to be more difficult to deal with. (I am using my experience painting with water, acrylic and oil paints for that decision.)
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Thank you all. This is very helpful. I believe I will test a premade branded and Windex which has ammonia and alcohol. I will also use a straight ammonia but not sure if by itself it would be too strong. Andy, could you tell me what "ammonia based thinner" you use? Also, do you use the same product for cleaning. I am envisioning (hoping?) that I can just spray the thinner through the air brush and that will take care of most of the cleaning. Richard
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I bought the Model Expo acrylic paint with the ship model I purchased. I read that water is not the best thinner to use for acrylics to be airbrushed. Alcohol was suggested but I am not sure if that is best. Also, what proportions to mix as a starting point. I looked through the other posts in this forum but did not see anything. Thank You,
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Wood filler vs. spackle
rtropp replied to rtropp's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
R: Mixing my own appeals to me. It would be nice to find a use for all that sawdust besides clogging this shop vac filter. I will try this checking closely on how it looks when stained. B: Does the patch and paint stain well? I would like for any solution to blend in well with the rest of the planking when stained. C: Could not fnd Ronseal in in the U.S. some of the reviews discussed painting over it but did not mention staining so same concern as above. Thanks all for your ideas. Richard -
In "How to Build First-Rate Ship Models from Kits" , Ben Lankford mentions that Basswood will sand away before most wood fillers. He suggests using vinyl spackling compound such as DAP instead. Just do not wash off because water will remove the filler. Has anyone had any experience or thoughts about this? At the very least, I would think that you could not use it places that are to be finished, i.e., surface areas. Is there a specific wood filler that is recommended for use with basswood, or, for that matter, other woods used in model ship building? Is there a filler or technique that would make sure surface finish is consistent? Thank You, Richard
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Mark, I am working on part 2 of the Siren and had what is probably a basic question about the lower deck. is it assembled and then installed between bulkheads or is it laid plank by plank across the cut outs? I hope its ok to ask the question on your log. Thanks Richard
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tank, Do you have any more info on the Bob Hunt course?
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I picked up a new unopened Mamoli Bounty MV39, 1:64 for $130. It was an impulse purchase but seemed to be a really good price. Did I get a good deal?
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USS Constitution - Model Shipways vs. Mamoli
rtropp replied to rtropp's topic in Wood ship model kits
S: Thanks for the tip about replacement parts at Model Expo. At my skill level (and stress tolerance level) replacement parts is an important factor. And Model Expo has be very easy to deal with thus far. The one part I needed (a bulkhead) came in a week and with no charge. Easy Peasy! R: It would seem to be more cost effective to just order additional wood. I have checked some sites and the prices aren't bad. Same seems true of replacing fixtures with upgraded brass and such. I was following a fellow who is doing an outstanding job of upgrading his build of the Siren. The prices of his upgrades, multiplied for difference in kit size and complexity between Siren and Constitution, would seem to still be less than the Mamoli kit. And it would allow some personalization. (Sooner or later I will have to try scratch built and this might be a step towards that. ) J: the cost of importing and differences in currency could well be a major portion of the price variances. I look forward to hearing from others who might have additional thoughts. Appreciate your inputs. Richard -
I am currently building the Siren and was looking at the Constitution kits from Mamoli and Model Shipways. The price difference is huge, with the larger Model Shipways kit almost half the price. Both are sold by Model Expo so I get the part replacement guarantee for either... which is great insurance for someone who is a little (ok... a lot) clumsy at times. I know, I have used it. So, my question is basically, what are the differences in the kits? Do the different scales make that much difference in the finished model? What do you get for the extra price of the Mamoli? I appreciate your thoughts. Richard
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I sculpt figures which have been about 20" - 24" tall. Also some other smaller pieces. It is rare to get dried wood any larger that has the width required. I am not thrilled with assembling multiple pieces because of the seams that are readily visible in the finished work. . The work gouges do require constant sharpening. I have a an electric Sharpener that has both whetstone and strop. Stropping occurs regularly but I am able to go long periods without grinding. . My comment was related to the use of harder, more exotic woods that would require much more frequent stropping, as well as more grinding. In my limited work at the scale of ship models, it would seem that carving, shaping and sanding basswood pieces would be easier on the hand and less wearing on the tools used. Perhaps this is not with the smaller scale of the pieces used in models. That opinion might change as I gain more experience with models.
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Ok, so I understand the use of basswood in kits in the U.S. I use basswood extensively in my sculpting due to its tight grain and it being easy to work. It also does not dull my chisels and gauges as quickly as other woods. Still curious, do manufacturers in other countries use basswood or rely on other woods in their kits? Also, do scratch builders use basswood or do they invest in more exotic woods? I appreciate the education. Thanks to all. Richard
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CA vs. Wood glue
rtropp replied to rtropp's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
If I understand correctly, CA would be the wrong choice to use in areas that would be stained. Is that correct?. -
It seems that basswood is frequently used in kits. Yet,, a number of builders seem to gravitate towards different woods,I.e., walnut, pear wood, etc.. Is the use of bass wood a cost issue it are there other reasons it seem to used iso often? Thanks, Richard
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