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rtropp

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Everything posted by rtropp

  1. rtropp
    I have it in budget for an additional tools but would like to serve multiple purposes if possible. In the near term I want to cross cut small pieces of bass, from 1/4 inch down to deck and hull planking. I will also, in the near future, try my hand at ripping stock to make my own planks, and etc. Is the MicroLux Mini Tilt Arbor Table Saw too much saw for the cross cutting? Would the smaller, MicroLux Miniature Table Saw be better for this and ripping stock? (or the Proxxon equivalent.) I have even considered a scroll saw which would also let me cut bulkheads and such but am given to understand that the scroll saw would not be effective for the cross cutting or ripping stock. If these options are not workable, I may end up with a chop saw, but hate to spend the money if the other equipment would give me the same function, plus others. I appreciate your thoughts, Richard
  2. rtropp
    Kurt, The acrylics are the paints sold by Model Expo for their models. The thinner's vehicle is Acrylic polymer emulsion. Would I be better off using distilled water? Richard
  3. rtropp
    J, The compressor I have has a built in tank. I am not sure there is a petcock but will be sure to check. Richard
  4. rtropp
    Kurt, I am using a branded acrylic paint thinner. Will the overspray still be harmless? If so, we just finished having part of our home painted and I have plastic sheets available. Richard
  5. rtropp
    Thank you all for your help. My plan is to give airbrushing its first trial this weekend if the rain holds off (almost constant cloudy and rain in Georgia lately). I will start off working outside on my patio to see what goes on. I will use a cardboard box as a jury rigged spray box but no exhaust... yet. My workshop is in my sunroom and the windows are not configured to allow venting easily so I figured better off testing outside until I understand what the "mess" factor might be. Between the advice you have all given, and some videos on YouTube, I should be able to muddle through the learning curve. I will post here as I have questions. Have a great weekend and, again, thank you all. Richard
  6. rtropp
    Eric, Glad to hear all is working out. I enjoy being your customer and look forward to a continued relationship. I had communicated with Tom (I think that is the same person) and he was very helpful. Just a hint to anyone looking for replacement parts, be sure to use the part numbers from the parts list.
  7. rtropp
    Kurt, the compressor/airbrush set includes a filter. It attaches between the compressor and the air hose. It has a small rod that is supposed to be depressed to empty the filter. I think this is a moisture trap, just called something else in the instructions. What do you think? Richard
  8. rtropp
    Kurt, Thank you for the help. I appreciate your expertise. I am away from my workshop at the moment, but will check it tomorrow morning. Richard
  9. rtropp
    I bought a medium strength airbrush from Model Expo and am about to use it. I have heard about "moisture traps". I am unfamiliar with these and Model Expo is going through changes and cannot answer my question. I had hoped someone on this forum might know. How important is a moisture trap? What kind / type /brand should I use with a 1/6 hp compressor with internal tank? And, where would be the best place to get one? That is... if it is really necessary. I will be spraying acrylic thinned with a brand name acrylic thinner. Much thanks, Richard
  10. rtropp
    As a retiree myself, I wish Frank the best. Glad to hear Model expo is continuing with their service. They have done well by me and I look forward to continuing as a customer. Richard.
  11. rtropp
    Recently I sent an email requesting information about a product. The reply I received was: " I apologize for the inconvenience. Unfortunately, Frank our expert has retired and we no longer have anyone here in regards to technical support. " I wonder about the implications for tools, supplies and Kits? I have spent a fair amount with model expo since I recently began building a ship model and my experience has always been good, in fact excellent. Is this the beginning of a change? I hope not. It would be hard to replace that kind of service. Richard
  12. rtropp
    Very nice build. I will be building this kit and would be interested in any research material anyone may have run across. Richard
  13. rtropp
    Mark, Thanks Richard
  14. rtropp
    Re: build a kit first. The experience of building the kit is helping me understand the tools that I would want/need. It's funny how as I work my idea of the tools I need changes. For instance, anything that will help with sanding, especially planking, has moved high on my list. I am sure my list will grow as I work. The tools I acquire for kit building should serve as foundation tools for scratch building also. I would suggest that, if possible, you consider picking a ship kit similar to the ship you would wish to scratch build. The kit I am working on is the Syren. It is a little advanced for the inexperienced but is the type of ship I am interested in. It is serving as a great learning experience. In fact, I have been thinking that my first scratch build might be the Syren itself. Heck, I have the complete set of plans, a parts list and a wealth of knowledge and experience in that ship. I am just not sure if it isn't a little crazy to build two of the same ship. Richard
  15. rtropp
    Mark, Is the Wahl sander effective with hull and deck, or for runs such as lintels? I.e., to keep fair. Thanks, Richard
  16. rtropp
    Bob, you are right about testing. I was in the hobby store and they had bags of Bass pieces on sale and I'll start by using some of that and see what happens, then the next step will be to try on some wood from the kit. Thanks,
  17. rtropp
    Bob, does it stain smoothly with the the bass wood? Richard
  18. rtropp
    Nice, I Iooked at your Malabar. I see now what you mean. I will try my hand at making my own filler. Do you build in woods other than bass wood? If so, do you use sawdust from those woods to make your own filler?
  19. rtropp
    I'm sure glad she keeps me around Richard
  20. rtropp
    Well, the pen sander issue was decided by my wife. She noticed me looking at the Proxxon on Amazon and bought it and the transformer as a surprise. I received the package today. Am I lucky or what? Richard
  21. rtropp
    Meredith, I followed the link supplied. The prices are not bad at all. One thing I noticed is that there is a less expensive transformer but only in 220 volt. The less expensive transformer in 110 volt does not have the speed control. I would be stuck with the more expensive model to get speed control in 110 volt. Oh well... If I decide to go without the speed control, I will probably go with the Micromark version suggested by another member. While it does not have speed control, it does not require a transformer, so one less piece of equipment. Thanks for all you help Richard
  22. rtropp
    Bogeygolpher, I'll tell you what is "Duh"... I had to look up Bulwark in my Lankford "How to..." book to know what you were writing about. Richard
  23. rtropp
    Hi all, apparently, without realizing it, I have been responding to emails from two different threads that cover this same topic. There is good information on "Micro Power Sanders" in this same forum. In that thread the MicroMark pen sander was mentioned. It does not require a transformer which would make it more convenient but also does not have a speed control. The price is not far off from the Proxxon with its speedless transformer. Since proxxon and micromark seem to be pretty similar in cost and quality, the choice seems to be: whether speed control is important whether you want an extra piece of equipment between you and the power. Hmmm, that brings the question of whether AC or 12 volt is better. And so it goes... Richard
  24. rtropp
    Hi all, I am working on the frame for the Syren. Having learned the lesson, "measure twice, cut once" a little late I have spots to fill. This made me consider that I will more than likely also have spots to fill on the planking also... unless I get a lot better, a lot quicker. So, there are multiple places where I expect to use filler to smooth out some rough handwork. Finishing does not appear to be important on the frame, but I do not want to sand away the frame while working on the filler, i.e., frame is softer than filler. Since there is only one layer of planking, I want to have the filler accept stain so it blends with the rest of the wood. I appreciate all your help. The last time I attempted this was almost 40 years ago before the internet and the lack of a support group showed in the results. Richard
  25. rtropp
    This has been very helpful. I appreciate all your responses. Richard

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