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LCdr Dave

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About LCdr Dave

  • Birthday 11/16/1960

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Vancouver Island
  • Interests
    model RR, miniature painting, wood working, tabletop games, kayaking, sailing, motorcycling

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  1. I think I have it figured out. Thanks so much for all your help. You guys are awesome. This project would have been binned long ago without you. 😁
  2. Gentlemen, thank you so much! I will make this work and it will probably be some kind of combination of these ideas. cheers, Dave
  3. Patrick, if you haven’t, maybe you should. So…..I won’t be wrapping the rope but how did you actually go about tying the deadeye in? BTW, I really like your hole pattern Dave
  4. I’m just starting the rigging on my Billing Mayflower, which has a dearth of instruction or info. The forestay collar, according to Baker, is “secured around the bowsprit with a deadeye seized in”. I cannot see how to actually tie this. I tried (and maybe my piece of rope was too short) but after an hour of fumbling I just had two severely frayed ends and nothing tied. Should I make a loop, and seize the ends together and then insert the deadeye and seize it in? I was trying to seize the two ends at the bottom of the deadeye but maybe it needs two steps… thanks for looking. Dave
  5. I redid the gammoning in what should be a better-scaled rope size. Then I finished up the masts (minus cleats) and I still have to decide on how the yards are to be hung. I think ropes through the hounds are the way to go vs jeers. Anderson does mention jeers but I can’t figure out the arrangement. I am unwilling to completely redesign the model and am not looking for an accurate replica so I am OK with carrying some inaccuracies forward. I did opt to make new deadeyes for the stays since these are obvious. I laminated two pieces of wood, drew a pattern based on Anderson’s measurements, and filed them to shape. The finished one compared to the kit-provided. Thanks for looking. Cheers, Dave
  6. Kirill, you have outdone yourself again! Thank you so much for the info and guidance. Taking the time to scan those drawings and provide the detailed instructions takes time and effort - I can’t say thank you enough. I’m learning so much about rigging and model ship building - it’s awesome. Bob, thanks for keeping an eye out for me. You did a great job finishing your MF. I can only hope to come close. Cheers, Dave
  7. If only I could read German! 🙂 One of the blocks takes line #27 (brace?) which is anchored somehow under the top, I think. The other one takes #34 I think, which seems to be a tackle ? on the foremast, these would be #10 and 13 I think. Trying to figure out how much I need to attach before stepping the masts so I don’t end up trying to tie tiny knots in hidden spots. I have attached pics of my drawings. thanks for looking, Dave
  8. I finished the Fore and Main tops. I realized after that the first one got a mix of bass and balsa wood - hopefully it won’t be noticeable once it is finished. The extra effort in replacing the plastic floor and trestle trees are worth it, I think. The rigging drawing shows a couple of blocks hanging from the bottom of the trestle tree with now part numbers. They seem to be part of the running rigging attached to the spars. I think using eyebolts to attach the blocks will be the way to go - there is no indication on the drawing. I don’t know what they are called so the Anderson book doesn’t help. Maybe another perusal of the Shipways instructions will help. Thanks for looking. Dave
  9. The last several weeks I have been reading books on rigging. Got my hands on William Baker’s “The Mayflower”, RC Anderson’s “Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast”, Lennarth Petersson’s “Step-by-Step Guide to the Intricacies of Square-Rig”. Moving towards getting the rigging started I decided to remake the plastic tops out of wood. Here I have the trestle trees and cross trees made. Next will be a floor. Thanks for looking, Dave
  10. Kirill, that is a wealth of information, thank you. I like the idea of having a few sizes of rope. I went with rope size provided in the kit and then sourced a dark brown version of it. I should have realized that, like everything else in the kit, it would be inaccurate. Back to the drawing board, I guess. thanks for checking in, Dave
  11. Patrick, I do have the model shipways instructions (I had forgotten I had them -doh). They are very helpful, but only if one reads them…. thanks for looking in, Dave
  12. Kirill, thank you. I should have looked at that first. I may have to pull it out and put in a longer piece of rope so I can double it up. cheers, Dave
  13. Patrick, thanks for the links to your builds - very informative. If I may inquire, what metal wire did you use to make the chains for the Pelican deadeyes? Your work is, by the way, awe-inspiring. Cheers, Dave
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