DocRob
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Thank you for believing in my abilities , but first trails have proved not too promising, I couldn´t activate the hairspray through the layers, as it should have been. I will start the sandblast effect with sanding, scratching and whatever it take, followed by an unplanned sponge chipping, which will hopefully do the trick. Cheers Rob -
Me too, Ken . I hope, I can realize the look, I had envisioned in my head since the beginning. Cheers Rob
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Painting and decaling the Kampfanzug is relatively time consuming, as every layer of paint or varnish has to dry properly. I sprayed some yellow areas on the weapon arm and weapons and brush painted many details. A coat of Pledge went onto the camouflage as a gloss base for decaling. The supplied decals were good to work with, luckily. I had different experiences with Hasegawa´s MaK decals, which were rigid and won´t settle on curved surfaces. On top, I put a matte coat, using the matte varnish from Winsor and Newton Galeria, for the first time. I need some more experience with the stuf, but like the result. I used Pledge and the water based matte varnish to hopefully be able to activate the hairspray under these numerous layers. Next will be heavy weathering, the most important step of this project. I hope, I can achieve the desired look. Cheers Rob
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Ferrari 250 GTO by CDW - Model Factory Hiro - 1:12 Scale
DocRob replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Nice find with the manual, at least with the third try, which worked. I had issues with ebay worldwide, when they somehow `lost´ some parts for my 1/1 Jeep, which were not available in Europe at the time. I ordered this one yesterday, but it´s not very thorough I guess, but will be sufficient for my GTO in 1/24. Reference / walkaround book: Ferrari 250 GTO (ref. KOM-FG036) Cheers Rob -
Fantastic work on the interior and engine, Dave. I like your faux woodwork a lot. HGW belts are easier to assemble, when the PE is still on the fret, while you wiggle the belt parts through. The engine looks fantastic and I second your experience with lead wire, it´s fantastic for the job. Cheers Rob
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On my island, it is impossible to get any spray cans imported since years. It´s not due to poisonous ingredients, it´s because they changed the type of plane, which transports them and some rules apply to the newer ones. I use Mr. Surfacer from the jar since then. It sprays absolutely fantastic, thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner. I have grey, black and white with the grade from 1000 to 1500. Tamiya rattle can primer was more convenient, but I adapted. Cheers Rob
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On to the camo. It´s the FU-52 disruptive desert scheme, I planned for the Kampfanzug. Not that such a thing exists, I made it up, because I wanted to achieve something different, but desert related. The idea is to build a camo from 3 mm wide Kabuki strips added with some 10 mm squares. The angles should be from about 75 to 90 percent, not less. I tried to get an even uneven pattern as a result. The masking took some hours obviously and I made sure to, there is no chance of color bleeding, rubbing all strips in and using a toothpick for the corners. Funky isn´t it? Now on with the paint, in this case Tamiya XF desert yellow. I sprayed it a bit less diluted than usual, to hinder bleeding under the masks. Masks were removed only minutes after application. I prefer to get rid of the masks fast, when the color isn´t completely cured, but dry to the touch. The camo has a kind of razzle dazzle look to it, but this will fade with weathering and all the abuse, I will put onto it. Cheers Rob
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Must have been a scary experience, Ken. My F-4 was supposed to look newish without the abuse of over trying pilots . That was my bird: ... and that is how your Rhino looked after your flight? (I took the picture at Chino California some years ago) Cheers Rob
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I spare you the smelly pics, the next two layers on the Kampfanzug were hairspray for my planned heavy sandblast chipping. I use the stuff directly from the can. For those, who don´t know the technique. I made a steel base layer, then hairspray and on top I apply the two tone camo. When everything is dried, I dampen the surfaces with water, where I want to chip, which activates the hairspray and loosens the adhesion of the two tone camo layers. With different tools, I can now scratch the top layers away. Next was the base layer of my planned camouflage, using Tamiya XF-64 red brown as the darker tone. It´s a bit bring to show all the layers here, but I did, to describe the process. Cheers Rob
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Don´t get me wrong, Ken, AK titanium sprays well, but it´s not very robust, but if you don´t mask on top, it works fine. Cheers Rob This is an excerpt from my Zoukei Moura Kai Phantom build for the area you mentioned: Some year end shiny glitter metal work was due today. The tail section of the Phantom got my preliminar interpretation of the real thing. I used different metal shades all from AK's Xtreme metal range. The upper areas beside the tail wings were sprayed stainless steel, along with the tail wing protection, where the middle part was masked off and sprayed gun metal. The protective sheets around the nozzles, where sprayed with titanium and accentuated with pale burnt metal. After all was dried, I did some soft panel picking with jet exhaust mixed with titanium, to create the illusion of not totally flat appearing sheets. All metal areas will be masked and later, after airbrushing the fuselage finally treated with some pigments and maybe panel liner, depending the overall look. One word about the formidable Xtreme Metal colors. On many occasions, I used them, they were very good to spray, have very fine grain and dry fast. I even went so far, because on my other builds they were very durable, to mask onto them with Tesa and Tamiya Kabuki tape without de tacking and had not the slightest lift at all, great stuff Happy New Year mi Amigos! Cheers Rob
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Orks Dakka Jet by RGL - FINISHED - Warhammer
DocRob replied to RGL's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Fantastic Greg, great choice of color, fitting grimy weathering, what´s not to love about it. Cheers Rob -
Thank you Ken, I really like the AK Extreme Metallics, they are nearly as good as Alclad finish wise, spray super fine and they are by far more durable than Alclad. Very important, if you plan to mask and weather on top. The only exception imho is titanium, which is fragile after applying and the black base is unusable, as it stays tacky forever. Cheers Rob
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After burying the fellow in his steel grave, I masked the front window and inserted it temporary with some diluted PVA glue. I added the missing bits and pieces to the Kampfanzug and sprayed it with Mr. Surfacer 1000 black as a solid base. Next was a coat of AK Extreme Metallics steel as the base coat. Cheers Rob
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Very nice, even better considering the small scale. The paintjob looks fantastic. My only small critique, I would remove the parting lines from the undercarriage struts, easy done with a sharp blade, scratching them away. Cheers Rob
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Wow, Alan, I was just catching up and wanted to underline what Mike said about Mr. Surfacer primers, when I saw, what you went through. Glad you and your cats were unharmed and the damage was not too much. It must have been a frightening experience. Your Yak looks fantastic and the NMF underlines the cool retro futuristic fifies jet thing. I also recommend Mr. Surfacer highly. I use them in black, grey and white ranging from 1000, 1200 and 1500, thinned with Mr. Leveling thinner. As a base for NMF finishes, I use Tamiya´s lacquer gloss black also thinned with Mr. Leveling thinner. Properly sprayed, you don´t need to polish it. Years ago, I used many Valejo products, but was often not too satisfied with the results, specially with the primers and some of the model air range. They had a tendency to build up pigments on the AB needle and sputter, mainly because you can´t use proper thinner with them. Cheers Rob
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Fantastic build, Yves. I have to go into your log thoroughly later, but your Bellona looks absolutely fantastic. I like the way you displayed your model and it encourages me to start with my HMS Sphinx without complete masting and rigging, but not before I finish the rigging of my Duchess of Kingston. BTW, I can´t identify your turntable, but like the clear acrylic look. I have some myself, including my top player, a Transrotor Fat Bob-S with a Sorane tonearm, a great setup, combined with the Phasemation PP-200 cartrdige. Cheers Rob
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Meanwhile, I managed to close the body of the Kampfanzug. Which sounds like a simple task, but wasn´t. A huge amount of pegs have to intersect and they had really tight tolerances. I had to use pliers at some points, always hoping, the side windows don´t pop out. Most of the kit could be build without glue, that´s why there are so many pegs. I masked the cockpit front window with kabuki tape and sawed off the huge mounting part, because it disturbed the view to the inside. The interior of the suit got water dampened to activate the hairspray and then chipped with various tools. This was followed be DAK sand effect, a kind of wash with pigments in it. I liked the effect a lot and applied it onto the poor pilot as well, before I buried him in his steel grave. I will leave the weathering for now, but I´m pretty sure, I will add more later. Cheers Rob
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Like Egilman said, an absolute stunner, the NMF is beautifully and believable rendered and I like the subtle weathering a lot. Cheers Rob
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Ferrari 250 GTO by CDW - Model Factory Hiro - 1:12 Scale
DocRob replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
There are only a few under 0,5 mm. Most are between 0,5 mm and 1,5 mm (with 0,1 mm inclination), a few are up to 2 mm. You need to drill hundreds of holes. I studied the manual very closely for each part and pre drilled all the needed holes for the part. If you forget a hole, it might be impossible to reach it later. Try to drill holes for adjoining parts together for a better fit. Test fit before gluing (more than normal). I had some problems with the holes in the PE, which were too small to accept their bolts. I took it for granted that they fit, first and it was a real pain to drill these tiny PE parts later. I found it easier to drill tiny parts on their casting sprues, especially connectors, which later accept wires or rods. It takes a lot of browsing through the manual to understand, where everything fits. This is especially necessary with the large parts, like chassis framings, where lots of components are added in later stages. Some holes are pass through holes for screws, where you can add 0,1 or 0,2 mm wiggle room. For the, in my case very dominant 1,4 mm screws, I usually drilled 1,2 mm holes and forced the screw in, sometimes with a drop of CA. Cheers Rob -
Ferrari 250 GTO by CDW - Model Factory Hiro - 1:12 Scale
DocRob replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
I still have a lot, but I find it hard to get good HSS drill bits in larger quantities. I bought some missing sizes from Mineshima and Tamiya through Plaza Japan. I also use the tungsten DSPIAE sets you can find on AliExpress. These are better than the normal PCB drills, but also have the same wrong incline (don´t know, if this is the right terminus) The good with these is the constant shaft diameter. I have three pin vises for drilling, along a Proxxon micro drill with stand and even more important, a foot pedal, which allows to work with both hands. I once bought a huge box with drill bits from AliExpress, ranging from 0,3 mm to 2,5 mm ? These were absolute crap, most of them had no tips at all and were not grinded correctly, beware of these. Cheers Rob -
Ferrari 250 GTO by CDW - Model Factory Hiro - 1:12 Scale
DocRob replied to CDW's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
It worked, Craig, I´m teased . Congratulations to that great find. These GTO´s are hard to come by. You will have loads of fun with the kit accompanied by challenges of course. I´m sur, with your skillset and experience, you´ll make it easily. Be sure to have enough drill bits in tiny diameters, you will need them. The classic HSS stuff works better than the brittle PCB drills, which "eat" into the material to fast. I´m always a bit underwhelmed, when I take a first look into a MFH box, exploring the resin bodies, but that´s only the first impression of the white resin, on closer looks, it reveals all the details and I´m happy again. Have fun with the kit and I´m happy to join in, when you start earnestly. @gsdpic I have an eye on the Gurney Weslake Eagle as well for some time Gary, should be a great kit. I hope you´ll find the inspiration with this kit. It will be demanding and utterly rewarding at the same time. Cheers Rob -
Absolutely right Egilman, there is so much to learn from MSW with all the experienced members around, willing to share their knowledge. Same goes for LargeScaleModeller.com. Cheers Rob
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Thanks Ken, the good thing with these subjects is, nobody can blame you for not being historical correct . Cheers Rob
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After two days of bodyboarding in nice waves, three hours in the water each day, I´m broke, muscles ache, but hey, it was a lot of fun. Why am I telling this here, because it brought me to a decision for the interior color of my Kampfanzug. What looks so beautiful, when you start surfing a wave, looking down in the direction of the ground, right, bright turquoise and then it hit me, why not painting the interior like in a Russian jet with that strange shade of turquoise. Cheers Rob
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Like Ken recommended, Pledge helps a lot against fogging of clear parts. If you dip clear parts into it and let dry properly, it even reduces the fogging effect of plastic glue and CA glue. If this doesn´t help, it´s sanding and polishing, I guess. I take, most of the clear parts are flat and van be carefully wet sanded on a flat surface and then polished with polishing compounds. Cheers Rob
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