
Lucius Molchany
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Everything posted by Lucius Molchany
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Looks like this one will be a real skyscraper!The keel is 24 inches long and the height of the mainmast from the base to the second doubling is 33 inches.It will be even taller when I put on the 3rd doubling when I get ready to rig it.
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Thanks guys! I will try to improve my pics and may post a tutorisl on how I cast my cannons.
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Tied the Earline's to the foremast and added some gold filigree to the bow.
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I did not have any large blocks or deadeyes so I am making my own by cutting a dowel rod into sections and drilling the holes. SHrouds we then run.
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Mounted up the formast and bowsprit.
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i affixed it to the display base and have just about finished the rigging.i really like the way this came out and view it as an encouraging first step in my quest to build some of the icon vessels (Modern wasa kit,Victory Sovereign of the Seas etc).I am currently building the Steingreber Admiral vernon (see my build log if interested).Due to its size I may just construct the hull and leave it at that for the time being.I intend to purchase another modern kit soon that should be a vast improvement compared to the vintage kits I have been building I have pretty much .determined that i am cable of building a major ship model but I have to get more serious as to the historical accuracy of my builds and improve basic skills.Much thanks to the members of this forum for their helpful hints and advice!
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The next order of business is to resin cast and install the cannons.I used the cast metal square cannon inserts from the AL Hermione kit that i modified withthe large caliber cannon from the Ersatzia .I also will use the cast metal closed gun ports to add variety to the gun ports.I white glued the masters to the bottom of a clear plastic box and will pour rTV to make a mold.After the mold cures i will resin cast sufficient copies to fill the cannon ports.This is the largest model i have ever constructed so it may be necessary to construct a stand alone display table.Gives me a chance to exercise my wood working skills.
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Here is the stern treatment I have designed and the large rudder with a preventer chain.(The chain limits the deflection of the rudder in a storm hopefully preventing it being snapped off .).
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I am well into my vintage Seingreber(West Germany)Admiral Vernon kit.i have modified the hull profile and have changed the stern treatment because the instructions leave a lot to be desired and i like to change things when I build models to personalize them.the hull is planked with 3/8" mahogany planks and limewood along the gun ports.
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I finished planking up the hull of my Steingreber Admiral Vernon and wished to paint the lower hull white.Due to the rather large size of the model(The keel is 2 feet long)using my normal Tamiya white would prove to be too expensive.I had some latex interior semi gloss(Baer)left over from painting the shed that looked promising.I thinned the paint with water and used a good quality 1-1/.2 inch sable artists brush to apply the paint.Great results were achieved with just the right sheen after 3 light coats and the waterline mask was sharp due to the great quality blue 3M masking tape.The paint should be quite durable after it cures but since the model is in its assembly cradle the hull will not be handled for several weeks after the permanent display base is constructed.
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I just built that kit but made several modifications to the design as the kit is an inaccurate reprentations of the Wasa.The kits mahogany planks are of high quality and should build to be an attractive decor piece.
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I have decided to resume the construction of my Ersatzia/fake Wasa build and installed the jibbom/bowsprit.It occurs to me that it would incredibly dangerous to reef or set the sail on that tiny platform in the open ocean.We all know how fast the weather can turn nasty when sailing the ocean.is that part of the reason that this type was eventually discontinued?
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What is the best method to remove the dust?
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