Srenner
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God this is confusing... its the red arrow distance below right?
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Just a question... gun deck length being 32m on the Greyhound 1720.. is that the distance from the cabins under the forecastle deck to the stern cabins door? To scale that should be 320mm or am I missing something?
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No your absolutely right...
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I don't get the scale of this model. 1/100 probably means that some things are very small. But that means they look dumb at this level and the detailing is too small to see. As example the 2mm x2mm knights heads. The instructions look bigger more like 3mm x3mm . Do I go with the scale feature or what looks good on the model?
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While I have been procrastinating about jumping back on blender and doing a heap of different designs like the knights heads, the quarter galleries, a ships bell housing etc I have been having fun with the hatch covers. But word of warning, the kit only provides just enough precut pieces for the grid and I has reduced to piecing last grid by using all the off cuts and sticking them in to the pattern. The forecastle rail is cut from a flat sheet of mahogany as edge bending 5mm x 1mm walnut into a semi circle was too much. I used black wash to darken the red colour back to more like walnut. All surfaces have had 4 coats of denatured shellac so it looks pretty waxy. The aft deck rails I edge bent some walnut 5x1 by using the clamp, wet with brush and iron technique. It took 3 times before there was enough bend but they are flat and not cracked which is good. I am going to go back to blender now and do those knights heads... 1750 style. The thumb and finger top which is correct at 1720 I think will look dumb in 1/100 scale and also difficult to print. I'm going to add some vertical volutes at the end of the rails printed 3d plastic and painted black.
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Finally the double planking is finished and I had some problems with the stern. Next model I will twist the double planking up at the stern like real modellers do.... i was following the drawings in the kit but in this case don't. I really like the shellac finish on the walnut so can't decide if this should be painted or not... might just keep going for a while and make a decision before rigging. I'm moving onto the rest of the rails and I'm going to make 3d printed knights heads as the ones in the kit are rubbish. And still need to do the quarter galleries. Also photoing your model is really quite hard... need to learn more zbout getting good photos
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Double planking finished on the Greyhound with the walnut 4x1mm strips. And sanding well underway One question those little holes between the strips what's the best way to fill them for paint finish? I've been collecting the sanding dust and can mix with pva for filler or just use small pieces of plaster potentially or small pieces of walnut? What's the best tried and true method of fixing up these?
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So the lights slope backwards and the pillars as well taking the same line as the stern... but not sure about the curve back comment. It could be more pronounced on my model... mine is quite tapered. I am thinking I will finish this mark two version and print it off and see how it looks otherwise it's quite a bit of rework to modify the curves again. It's a very complicated compound shape- partially a sector from a cylinder inclined and rotated but to add further curvature will be interesting to do in blender. And getting the trims to modify onto the shape also problem. Also will keep it as a quarter gallery as the kit piece is one not a badge so while it may or may not be historically accurate im just doing some kit bashing to selected parts of it.
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Been making progress on quarter galleries part 2... much happier with the overall solid and shape plus the details. 3/4 finished now
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Thanks that's perfect... I just realized I will need to start again as the windows are not recessed but seem to be more stuck on the surface of the curve from the stern and that embossed stars pattern I can replicated between some decorative beading plus potential to put some wooden slats on the top as well.
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On the subject of quarter galleries... are they supposed to be keyed into the side of the hull or can it have some decoration on the front panel like some cherubs, scrollwork etc?
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Finished the second planking on one side... moving to the other side. Question: what is the normal whiteish color for under the waterline for royal navy 1700's . Acrylic paint number
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Wet and cold weekend here in Auckland perfect modelling weather. After all the printing and working on blender its been nice to get back to some wood and just using my hands to craft. And made a lot of progress. Firstly painted the cabins at both ends with blue, white and gold. Filled in the glass with micro Kristal and gave it some weathering with black wash to bring out the details. Then moved into the rails on the quarterdeck and the foredeck. Included is the tricky bend of six pieces of 3x1mm walnut around a half circle but in the end the wet paint brush and hot iron did a superb job of bending that wood around. A next have to edge bend a 5x1mm rail... not sure if that will work or I will have to cut it into peices. The quarter deck rail will be three pieces that cover the stern piece of printing I did. Waiting for paint on that before getting it in there. Finally the second planking is well underway... the extreme cold today around 10 degrees was not setting the pva very fast so I was giving it a blast with the heat gun to get it to go off. Switched to CA for the last plank before bed tonight. All in all a good days work in the model
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Hi... I've been printing in 4k and at scale 1/100 alot of the features you can add in solid works or blender won't print out or will be so tiny the human eye can't see it properly let alone paint it. The smallest feature you can see and paint is about 200 micron which is 5 layers of 4k or 10 layers of 12k. Also holes or penetrations tend to close up under a certain size because of the resin even with washing in ipa. I printed a few pins with a 700 micron hole and closed up with the phrazon 8k resin I was using last week. Just keep that in mind at 1/180 scale everything very small or print it out of scale to accommodate. Like you I am very keen to keep pushing with the resin printer for things like surface wood finish etc as you can print out things no one can carve out by hand.
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Wow I stepped up to the expensive resin phrozen aqua 8k grey and the print quality is amazing! Also bumped the temperature upto 40 degrees as it's pretty viscous. Normal layer exposure time 1.4 seconds and bottom layer 15 seconds. It's straight onto painting now for these. I am going to fill the windows with the micro Kristal clear. im working on some vertical volutes for the railing in blender with wood pattern as a detail plus the stern will be printed in the fancy resin. And I can progress with the second planking in 1x4mm walnut.
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The quarterdeck cabin facade is 90% complete, I just need to size it a bit better before I go to paint on that. And the foredeck cabin facade is better but I need to round it a little bit so that it fits the deck properly. I worked out I can print them together on the same build plate at the same time which saves some time in the printing. To be honest I want to get back to doing some wood now.. i have had enough with the plastic at the moment.
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I've been working on the forecast cabin which will be tucked under the forecastle deck. Again the blender skills make it a long process but this time I made a dense mesh and cut out the windows using a boolean modifier... it seems to make better stl files back to chitubox ready for print. The design is based on the 1710 design in the Goodwin book plus a few decorative elements added because I can... The final one will be the captains cabin facade on the main deck at the stern. Im hoping that one will be quicker.
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I'm done... I've learned alot but there gets a point where you've done alot of detail and need to move on. I'm getting onto the forecastle area now. I've ordered some 8k resin for the final prints and these prints I can practice some painting.
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The stern carvings are coming together now and I made a nice print by only tilting about 20 degrees instead of the 45 I was before. Also beefing up the contacts with the supports helps it not to pull away while it's being printed. I'm working on the lion but as you can see the results are a lot better than the piece supplied with the kit. And because of the scandalous use of hms nelson carving on the coral piece I felt I could do what I wanted with it to a degree
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After mesh wrangling all weekend I have tried a test print on the unicorn... surprised it doesn't look too bad. Going to increase its thickness a little bit more so it stands out as a relief off the surface.
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Build update... its taken a lot of time and mucking around in blender but ove reached the beginner stage I think... starting to get closer results to the piece supplied in the kit. I noticed one of the sections on the stern has be ripped from hms Victory... so don't feel as bad taking a little bit of poetic license with the decorations. I'm going to make a running greyhound as the figurehead.
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Failed print but also not fine enough detail
Srenner replied to Srenner's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
Ok I'm happy with the basic shape now and I was mega rough ripping off the tree... I didn't care I just know I can print all the windows now at the right scale. It's fine so on the final print I will take special care and cure them properly before removing Moving on to the profiles now.. man they are hard taking svg from the internet and trying to 3d them from 2d... not easy!
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Failed print but also not fine enough detail
Srenner replied to Srenner's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
What about meshlab? I downloaded this afternoon but man there are so many filters on there my head is spinning... maybe will just try Microsoft 3d builder as well -
Failed print but also not fine enough detail
Srenner replied to Srenner's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
I'm making progress... worked out I should export as stl file not obj file that helped immediately in chitubox fixing up the graphics there. The print looks like it is refusing to print one cube in the mesh... its not there in final output so its one of those horrible ones where it looks rendered and enclosed on screen but probably isn't or you can see its like a tray filled in on one side only and the sides but not the top..... Which 3d mesh checking tool do people recommend to run before print? The other thing is disappointing that at 1/100 scale the really fine detail that completes something nicely you just can't print out... looks good on the screen but the hobby printer won't go down to that level... unless someone has a 8k or higher resolution printer maybe?
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Failed print but also not fine enough detail
Srenner replied to Srenner's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
Hi Question if I adjust the alias it won't round off a single pixel at 40 micron square will it... only vertices and edges of the solid at effectively blocks of 40 micron x lift height set set at 40 micron perhaps
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