Jaager

The General version has been on Micro Mark for a while.  There is a Jacobs chuck that fits it, so
wire gauge bits can be used with it.

Roger B Taney
Revenue Cutter
Launched 12/26/1833
Isaac Webb design
 
LBP 74.5"
Beam  20" 8.5"
Depth  7.5'
 
Howard I Chapelle drafted a hull plan and it is available from The Smithsonian
They also have  spar plan for the near contemporary  Revenue cutter Jefferson and one for the Revenue cutter Washington.
Since Jefferson may have been a sister, this plan may be close enough.
 
Chapelle provided the following data on his plan of the Taney
 

 
Help for the details may be available in one or all of the following books:
 
LEVER,L DARCY                                                    
EDWARD W SWEETMAN CO                         
NEW YORK                 
1963
MASTING - RIGGING        

ART OF RIGGING, THE  1848                                        
BIDDLECOMB,G                                                     
EDWARD A SWEETMAN                            
NEW YORK                 
1969
MASTING AND RIGGING      

KEDGE ANCHOR, THE  1876                                          
BRADY,WILLIAM N                                                  
MACDONALD AND JANE'S                         
LONDON                   
1974
MASTING AND RIGGING      
 
SEAMANSHIP 1862                                                  
NARES,GEORGE S                                                   
GRESHAM BOOKS                                
SURRY                    
1979
SEAMANSHIP                           
19TH MASTING RIGGING SAIL                                                                                                                                                              
Rigging Period Ship Models
Petersson, Lannarth
Seaforth
2011
 
I have not looked at the books to see which are really helpful for a small vessel like this.
 

From the pictures,  there seems to be a very important component missing:
 
The plus added to your vac system by having a passive cyclone dust separator inline
is difficult to over state.  Very little reaches the body of the vac.  I too have an Oneida
Dust Deputy.  I got one on sale, but it is worth list.
An RCV switch - garage door type unit to turn on power to the vac - is very handy.

Roger B Taney
Revenue Cutter
Launched 12/26/1833
Isaac Webb design
 
LBP 74.5"
Beam  20" 8.5"
Depth  7.5'
 
Howard I Chapelle drafted a hull plan and it is available from The Smithsonian
They also have  spar plan for the near contemporary  Revenue cutter Jefferson and one for the Revenue cutter Washington.
Since Jefferson may have been a sister, this plan may be close enough.
 
Chapelle provided the following data on his plan of the Taney
 

 
Help for the details may be available in one or all of the following books:
 
LEVER,L DARCY                                                    
EDWARD W SWEETMAN CO                         
NEW YORK                 
1963
MASTING - RIGGING        

ART OF RIGGING, THE  1848                                        
BIDDLECOMB,G                                                     
EDWARD A SWEETMAN                            
NEW YORK                 
1969
MASTING AND RIGGING      

KEDGE ANCHOR, THE  1876                                          
BRADY,WILLIAM N                                                  
MACDONALD AND JANE'S                         
LONDON                   
1974
MASTING AND RIGGING      
 
SEAMANSHIP 1862                                                  
NARES,GEORGE S                                                   
GRESHAM BOOKS                                
SURRY                    
1979
SEAMANSHIP                           
19TH MASTING RIGGING SAIL                                                                                                                                                              
Rigging Period Ship Models
Petersson, Lannarth
Seaforth
2011
 
I have not looked at the books to see which are really helpful for a small vessel like this.
 

From the pictures,  there seems to be a very important component missing:
 
The plus added to your vac system by having a passive cyclone dust separator inline
is difficult to over state.  Very little reaches the body of the vac.  I too have an Oneida
Dust Deputy.  I got one on sale, but it is worth list.
An RCV switch - garage door type unit to turn on power to the vac - is very handy.

The dust from a bandsaw is a somewhat minor aspect.  There is a vac port.
With a cyclone trap, the vac filter does not clog nearly as often.  For me, it is
the blades. 
A table saw has finer teeth, and higher velocity, so the dust is a lot worse.
A thickness sander IS dust. 
 
A real advantage with a bandsaw is that if you have access to rural areas, and a
chainsaw, wood can be harvested on the hoof.  Species can be obtained that are not
available commercially.
 

If you are going to travel south,  take a look here:  http://cpjohnsonlumber.com/lumber-prices
 
The prices look good.

The dust from a bandsaw is a somewhat minor aspect.  There is a vac port.
With a cyclone trap, the vac filter does not clog nearly as often.  For me, it is
the blades. 
A table saw has finer teeth, and higher velocity, so the dust is a lot worse.
A thickness sander IS dust. 
 
A real advantage with a bandsaw is that if you have access to rural areas, and a
chainsaw, wood can be harvested on the hoof.  Species can be obtained that are not
available commercially.
 

If you are going to travel south,  take a look here:  http://cpjohnsonlumber.com/lumber-prices
 
The prices look good.

Why not use an aqueous aniline wood dye?
Wood Craft has pre mixed concentrates that can be mixed to
produce a continuum of possible shades.
Test it on your available wood stock to find the best compatibility and result.
With a deep penetrating dye, the grain is not hidden.
 
Given your location, have you checked out:
http://worldofhardwoods.com/Location.php
 

If you are going to travel south,  take a look here:  http://cpjohnsonlumber.com/lumber-prices
 
The prices look good.

Why not use an aqueous aniline wood dye?
Wood Craft has pre mixed concentrates that can be mixed to
produce a continuum of possible shades.
Test it on your available wood stock to find the best compatibility and result.
With a deep penetrating dye, the grain is not hidden.
 
Given your location, have you checked out:
http://worldofhardwoods.com/Location.php
 

Following suggestions from here, I am now experimenting with violin-makers knives
for the jobs that these disposable blades do. Not enough experience with this yet.

MicroMark  #11 pk of 100
 
frequent strop using
scrap leather and FlexCut Gold cmpd

Following suggestions from here, I am now experimenting with violin-makers knives
for the jobs that these disposable blades do. Not enough experience with this yet.

MicroMark  #11 pk of 100
 
frequent strop using
scrap leather and FlexCut Gold cmpd

I have it in my memory that years ago, a journal article said that there are probably way more SOS kits (and Victory as well I'm guessing)
sitting unfinished and likely unstarted on closet shelves than are ever finished.
 
Your feeling of being overwhelmed is a totally valid response.
A first rate man-o-war was a major undertaking for a country.
A model of one is a virtuoso undertaking.  To make matters worse,
the small scale (1:90 ) gets close to miniature scale, which because
of the physical limits of modeling materials - wood mostly - skilled tricks
are needed for various components.
There is just a lot more of everything - a serious amount of repetitive work.
Looking at pictures, it is difficult to realize,  but a 74 is a really major undertaking
and a 1st rate is essentially twice as large.
 
A brig is a good first choice. But still a substantial undertaking.
You do seem to have a knack for finding "not now being manufactured" kits.
Perhaps Ebay is a solution to the kit in the closet. Or maybe it is like the exercise springs present 
that my ex-inlaws used to pass as a joke each Xmas - the same kits over and over.
 
Wo bist du? You do not list a location. 
Economical sourcing of wood is location dependent.   choosing species that are optimal for scaling down is
tricky.
 
 

Doing a single fold, the cut edge is on view.
I am thinking that painting a thin strip of a clear
material that dries stiff over the line to be cut
( on the backside ) will stop fraying and give a clean looking edge.
Shellac, varnish, lacquer come to mind. of the three,
I think lacquer may be the better choice - except that the
solvent is so fierce for close up work, inside.

Doing a single fold, the cut edge is on view.
I am thinking that painting a thin strip of a clear
material that dries stiff over the line to be cut
( on the backside ) will stop fraying and give a clean looking edge.
Shellac, varnish, lacquer come to mind. of the three,
I think lacquer may be the better choice - except that the
solvent is so fierce for close up work, inside.

Doing a single fold, the cut edge is on view.
I am thinking that painting a thin strip of a clear
material that dries stiff over the line to be cut
( on the backside ) will stop fraying and give a clean looking edge.
Shellac, varnish, lacquer come to mind. of the three,
I think lacquer may be the better choice - except that the
solvent is so fierce for close up work, inside.

Things that look strange to my eye:
 
No windlass
Cathead looks too small
No cradle the boom jaws on the main
No lower boom on the fore if it was a schooner
If it was brig rigged on the fore, width of the lowest yard does not look wide enough for a mainsail 
more like a spreader for the fore topsail
The bowsprit being square outboard - I am surprised how unattractive that looks tome.
The jibboom looks under size
The lack of ratlines
There is a significant drag, I would have mounted it with the waterline horizontal.
 
My money is on this being a decorative model, rather than an historical presentation.
Being heretical here:  because this is not a visitor from the early 1800's - I would go wild with the repairs,
and pick a close vessel from about 1812 and upgrade it to match.

Search: fair a frame  in the tools and equipment forum and read before you consider this tool.

Search: fair a frame  in the tools and equipment forum and read before you consider this tool.

Things that look strange to my eye:
 
No windlass
Cathead looks too small
No cradle the boom jaws on the main
No lower boom on the fore if it was a schooner
If it was brig rigged on the fore, width of the lowest yard does not look wide enough for a mainsail 
more like a spreader for the fore topsail
The bowsprit being square outboard - I am surprised how unattractive that looks tome.
The jibboom looks under size
The lack of ratlines
There is a significant drag, I would have mounted it with the waterline horizontal.
 
My money is on this being a decorative model, rather than an historical presentation.
Being heretical here:  because this is not a visitor from the early 1800's - I would go wild with the repairs,
and pick a close vessel from about 1812 and upgrade it to match.

Things that look strange to my eye:
 
No windlass
Cathead looks too small
No cradle the boom jaws on the main
No lower boom on the fore if it was a schooner
If it was brig rigged on the fore, width of the lowest yard does not look wide enough for a mainsail 
more like a spreader for the fore topsail
The bowsprit being square outboard - I am surprised how unattractive that looks tome.
The jibboom looks under size
The lack of ratlines
There is a significant drag, I would have mounted it with the waterline horizontal.
 
My money is on this being a decorative model, rather than an historical presentation.
Being heretical here:  because this is not a visitor from the early 1800's - I would go wild with the repairs,
and pick a close vessel from about 1812 and upgrade it to match.