Jaager

I have had a General Tool cordless screwdriver with a chuck attachment. 
It works as a reamer, but the RPM are not all that they could be, nor the power.
 
I suspect any battery operated mini drill might not perform as well as desired.
 
A small DC motor with narrow gauge wiring to a selectable power supply ( MPJA ~$25) -more power - small enough wire not matter vs wireless.
AliExpress  features small motors - some with a larger Jacobs chuck - and some with a #60 or smaller keyless chuck.
 
Anything with a fixed DC output transformer will probably under perform.
As I understand it, a DC motor will tolerate higher voltage or amps - maybe have a premature death - but they respond poorly to an under the rating power supply?

I think he wants to stain the wood and then put a high gloss lacquer over it. Not something I'd advise, but any stain would have to be applied before any shellac. No?

I thought that they rules were:
water based acrylics are not compatible with organic solvent based oils.
 
You may have to get back to bare wood.  Trying to make sense of "Coating paper"  - is this a paper model?
 
Anyway - remove the acrylic paint.
Prime with shellac  -
then use oils (enamels)
 
Old school lacquer is in a noxious and aggressive organic solvent.  Very volatile - such that another coat can be applied after 2 hrs.  My initial hypothesis is that the solvent in the lacquer allowed the acrylic layer to interact with the enamel layer.
Why not over coat with shellac instead of an organic solvent based polymerizing oil like linseed  (with a catalyst) = (oil varnish).  You do not need a hard shell for this application.
 
There may be some situations where good money would be spent to get that sort of crinkled finish.  It looks a couple hundred years old.
 

I thought that they rules were:
water based acrylics are not compatible with organic solvent based oils.
 
You may have to get back to bare wood.  Trying to make sense of "Coating paper"  - is this a paper model?
 
Anyway - remove the acrylic paint.
Prime with shellac  -
then use oils (enamels)
 
Old school lacquer is in a noxious and aggressive organic solvent.  Very volatile - such that another coat can be applied after 2 hrs.  My initial hypothesis is that the solvent in the lacquer allowed the acrylic layer to interact with the enamel layer.
Why not over coat with shellac instead of an organic solvent based polymerizing oil like linseed  (with a catalyst) = (oil varnish).  You do not need a hard shell for this application.
 
There may be some situations where good money would be spent to get that sort of crinkled finish.  It looks a couple hundred years old.
 

I have had a General Tool cordless screwdriver with a chuck attachment. 
It works as a reamer, but the RPM are not all that they could be, nor the power.
 
I suspect any battery operated mini drill might not perform as well as desired.
 
A small DC motor with narrow gauge wiring to a selectable power supply ( MPJA ~$25) -more power - small enough wire not matter vs wireless.
AliExpress  features small motors - some with a larger Jacobs chuck - and some with a #60 or smaller keyless chuck.
 
Anything with a fixed DC output transformer will probably under perform.
As I understand it, a DC motor will tolerate higher voltage or amps - maybe have a premature death - but they respond poorly to an under the rating power supply?

It works to fix toothpick handles into small blocks of packing foam to make a glue spreader.  It resists the water in PVA and tap water to clean the spreader.

I have found Duco to be unreliable where there is significant shear force and the surface area of the bond is equal or less than the surface area where the force is applied.
 
There is always the glue used before synthetic chemistry became involved:  hide glues.

Weldbond is just another brand of white PVA.  It dries clear - just as any other white PVA does.  Whoever does their writing for the directions has a real talent for misdirection.  From reading it, it casts the product as being somehow unique.
 
The yellow versions of PVA dry transparent, but with an amber tint.
For Titebond - it seems that the price / ml is half at the next volume.  The gal is way less per ml than the 4 oz.  If you were in a large club and bought a gal and then divided it up into 4 oz portions spread over the membership, there is a deal - probably not cost effective, but a deal on paper.   This is probably one of those situations where buying a 4 oz bottle and getting a new one as needed actually is cost effective.  Especially if your interest waxes and wains.  Then too, there are stages that are glue heavy and others where not much is needed.
 
 

I did not express this,  but I think that for scratch builders, this skill will become more of a necessity than a lark.  The price of the wood that we want is going up out of proportion to inflation and the availability is going down.  
The perspective that I am seeing this from is POF.  Compared to most all of the rest of a vessel,  the volume of wood required for frame timbers and the fraction that becomes waste is a whole other magnitude.

None of the wood species on my list for possibles for you will be available at a commercial hardwood dealer.  Do you have local tree services?  I would doubt that firewood would be a big deal there, so that is not a likely source - it is not really all that useful here - they deal in wood that is mostly open pore and coarse grain.   Is smoking your own meat a hobby there?   Are there county extension agents for farmers?  They may know of farmers who have useful species of trees if you tell them what you are looking for. 
A two foot long log is as long as you need.  If a log has too much diameter, a wedge can bisect it. 
Any tree harvesters on the island?  The stuff that you want is the stuff in their way.  Trash that they are happy to get rid of.
You will need a "friend" with a 14" or larger bandsaw.  You supply his blades.  Study on seasoning?  Look up how to make your own kiln.  Speed will not be an imperative, so a lower temp will work - it just needs to be high enough to suspend or kill fungus and wood eating insects.
 

There is a joy involved with working with species of wood that are appropriate for our uses.
An unfortunate factor is when a wood with a limited supply and is harvested from the wild reaches fad status.  The result is a high price and or unavailability.
Harvesting your own - making a deal for tool use if you do not have them would be productive and sustainable.
 
Is Calycophyllum candidissimum - Lemonwood, Degame  grown in Puerto Rico?   Eriobotrya japonica -Loquat, Japanese Plum?   Citrus sp. - Orange/Lemon/Lime?   Zanthoxylum flavum - West Indian Satinwood?  Any species of Rosewood?
 
Going domestic is less expensive.  Using trees that are too small for commercial exploitation opens many more possibilities.   Most authors and members live in temperate or colder regions so species that we can get are the ones written about.  That does not mean that wood that is growing close to you cannot be just as useful.

Jorge,
 
I mean this with no degree of authority.  More in the way of an old farmer telling a soldier:  you might want to go another way than walking thru the mind field (as well as minefield)  that is in the direction that you are going.
 
Are you sure that the person who made this gift to you is really a friend?😉
 
Without doing more than a superficial inspection I have the following poor opinion of the original iteration of Mamoli :
 
The number of molds is not adequate for the degree of support needed.
The  relationship of the plans to those of the actual ship is an accident  if it happens to be close.
It looks to me as though the same plans were used for the hull of the old versions of these three:  Beagle  - Bounty  - Endeavor
The trash wood - only good for making pallets - this quality of species used has been mentioned more than once. 
There is no real remediation.  Even if you can do something to reverse the effects of age, the wood that you have was probably sprouted as junk. 
Alchemy has always been a delusion, a mind altering substance generated dream.  Your efforts will probably be a form of alchemy.
 
There are plenty of plans of Victory 1765 floating around.  A check to see if the Mamoli plans lines are close to being authentic may be prudent.
 
I have been doing a bit of lofting and I find that the difference between even a 90 gun liner and a 100+ gun liner is more than just 10 more guns would suggest.
There is a significant jump.  A 100 gun liner is a monster.  It is so much work.  If all that you want is a decorator style model, this Mamoli project may be all that you need.
If your purpose is a bit more serious,  you may wish to begin with a better foundation.  Not matter your choice, this project will be a significant time sink.
 
Dean
 

A bit of exploration about wood:
Some of it is 100's if not more years old before it is even cut.  Except for a thin layer just under the bark, it is dead even on the hoof.
In a living tree, it is wet.  One of its jobs is to circulate water and nutrients.   When wood is cut and milled, one of the other processes is to get the excess water out = seasoning'
Wood "likes" water.  It will always have a water content that is in proportion to the concentration of water vapor in the air surrounding it.  Wood cannot get drier than this.
Wood is cellulose and lignin.  Cellulose is a polymer of sugars.  It will oxidize.  Very slowly if it is just in contact with atmospheric oxygen at ambient temp.   Very quickly at 451 F. in the presence of oxygen,  or an an aqueous environment and exposed to the right enzymes from gut bacteria.  The reverse is that exposed to elevated temp in the absence of oxygen, it will reduce to elemental carbon - charcoal.
 
Old brittle wood is probably that way because it is a species of young brittle wood.  The dry part is limited by the relative humidity.  Every species of wood in an environment will have about the same degree of "dryness".   The cure to your problem is to use a more appropriate species of wood.   

Weldbond is just another brand of white PVA.  It dries clear - just as any other white PVA does.  Whoever does their writing for the directions has a real talent for misdirection.  From reading it, it casts the product as being somehow unique.
 
The yellow versions of PVA dry transparent, but with an amber tint.
For Titebond - it seems that the price / ml is half at the next volume.  The gal is way less per ml than the 4 oz.  If you were in a large club and bought a gal and then divided it up into 4 oz portions spread over the membership, there is a deal - probably not cost effective, but a deal on paper.   This is probably one of those situations where buying a 4 oz bottle and getting a new one as needed actually is cost effective.  Especially if your interest waxes and wains.  Then too, there are stages that are glue heavy and others where not much is needed.
 
 

I did not express this,  but I think that for scratch builders, this skill will become more of a necessity than a lark.  The price of the wood that we want is going up out of proportion to inflation and the availability is going down.  
The perspective that I am seeing this from is POF.  Compared to most all of the rest of a vessel,  the volume of wood required for frame timbers and the fraction that becomes waste is a whole other magnitude.

This is probably your primary problem.  A quality tool that is doing its job correctly does not perform like yours is. 
There is probably enough information about the various tools and options for rotary work here to make up a novella sized volume.
The possibilities cover micromotors, surplus dental drills, Foredom models ....  you do not have to use junk.
Unfortunately, Dremel has stopped marketing my go to model: 8050. 
Their current market leader models seem to be closer to full size drills.  It looks bulky and awkward.
 
The idea of even contemplating putting a complete hull under a drill press????   You drill the part and then take it to the hull.
 
I think that most house brand benchtop drill presses are all essentially coming off of the Eurotool drl-300.00 line.  You do not want to buy from a supplier who stocks the QA rejects.
 
If getting a semi precise angle is the goal, a stick with a vertical hole that is just non-binding diameter of the bit can be used a drill block guide.
 
For trunnel sized holes, you could go really low cost.  At AliExpress there are a variety of small DC motors with small chucks.
There are DC power supplies with step voltage output. 1.5 to 14 V 2amp - They should be ~$25 .   A motor that is about three fingers long and only needs two small gauge wires can get inside a hull - if you can get your hand in.
 
 
 

That you are having a problem -  it suggests that you are doing edge bending.  If you are doing the spilling correctly, there should be no edge bending.  The stock that is being spilled probably needs to be twice as wide as the plank that is derived from it, for some of them.
Wood resists edge bending.  It will twist rather than do it.
 
The garboard is key.  The top edge is straight.  Along the touch of the keel, the bottom edge is straight.  When the rabbet arcs up with the stem and cants up with the sternpost - all of the shaping comes off of the bottom edge.  
Also, I am thinking that it might be a good idea to leave the width of the garboard out of any width reduction.  Use the planking fan on the planks between the bottom of the wale and the top of the garboard?

This is probably your primary problem.  A quality tool that is doing its job correctly does not perform like yours is. 
There is probably enough information about the various tools and options for rotary work here to make up a novella sized volume.
The possibilities cover micromotors, surplus dental drills, Foredom models ....  you do not have to use junk.
Unfortunately, Dremel has stopped marketing my go to model: 8050. 
Their current market leader models seem to be closer to full size drills.  It looks bulky and awkward.
 
The idea of even contemplating putting a complete hull under a drill press????   You drill the part and then take it to the hull.
 
I think that most house brand benchtop drill presses are all essentially coming off of the Eurotool drl-300.00 line.  You do not want to buy from a supplier who stocks the QA rejects.
 
If getting a semi precise angle is the goal, a stick with a vertical hole that is just non-binding diameter of the bit can be used a drill block guide.
 
For trunnel sized holes, you could go really low cost.  At AliExpress there are a variety of small DC motors with small chucks.
There are DC power supplies with step voltage output. 1.5 to 14 V 2amp - They should be ~$25 .   A motor that is about three fingers long and only needs two small gauge wires can get inside a hull - if you can get your hand in.
 
 
 

The stay sharp longer  carbide bits are the wrong type for us.  They are for steel and for use in a precision machine.  The characteristic that makes them hold their edge also makes them brittle.
Hand held - pin vise or a rotary tool - and probably miniature drill press - into wood - involves a bit of flex at the beginning of the bore.  Carbide is not up to this abuse.
 
I don't know what a $30.50 bit can do, but I mainly suspect that the seller is trolling for dupes.
 
I think HHS is the type we want.  Quality steel yields a degree of survival from flex.   Bright is my choice.
I go with domestic manufacturers if given the option.
 
Here is a company that is a supplier - not a manufacturer - but with #70 bits at ~ $1.00 each - it will not cost much to test their products.
https://www.cmlsupply.com/bright-finish/
 
Up scale mills used as a drill press is practical if you do a lot of work with steel too.
We have had an on going vigorous debate about drill press choices.  Do a search in the tool forum for hours of discussion.  I suspect that when a subject has a lot of different favorites as for finding the right answer, that there are a lot of right answers.
The utility of a drill press depends on your style of building.   For some, it is a door stop.  For some, it is an everyday tool.

The stay sharp longer  carbide bits are the wrong type for us.  They are for steel and for use in a precision machine.  The characteristic that makes them hold their edge also makes them brittle.
Hand held - pin vise or a rotary tool - and probably miniature drill press - into wood - involves a bit of flex at the beginning of the bore.  Carbide is not up to this abuse.
 
I don't know what a $30.50 bit can do, but I mainly suspect that the seller is trolling for dupes.
 
I think HHS is the type we want.  Quality steel yields a degree of survival from flex.   Bright is my choice.
I go with domestic manufacturers if given the option.
 
Here is a company that is a supplier - not a manufacturer - but with #70 bits at ~ $1.00 each - it will not cost much to test their products.
https://www.cmlsupply.com/bright-finish/
 
Up scale mills used as a drill press is practical if you do a lot of work with steel too.
We have had an on going vigorous debate about drill press choices.  Do a search in the tool forum for hours of discussion.  I suspect that when a subject has a lot of different favorites as for finding the right answer, that there are a lot of right answers.
The utility of a drill press depends on your style of building.   For some, it is a door stop.  For some, it is an everyday tool.

I did not express this,  but I think that for scratch builders, this skill will become more of a necessity than a lark.  The price of the wood that we want is going up out of proportion to inflation and the availability is going down.  
The perspective that I am seeing this from is POF.  Compared to most all of the rest of a vessel,  the volume of wood required for frame timbers and the fraction that becomes waste is a whole other magnitude.

That you are having a problem -  it suggests that you are doing edge bending.  If you are doing the spilling correctly, there should be no edge bending.  The stock that is being spilled probably needs to be twice as wide as the plank that is derived from it, for some of them.
Wood resists edge bending.  It will twist rather than do it.
 
The garboard is key.  The top edge is straight.  Along the touch of the keel, the bottom edge is straight.  When the rabbet arcs up with the stem and cants up with the sternpost - all of the shaping comes off of the bottom edge.  
Also, I am thinking that it might be a good idea to leave the width of the garboard out of any width reduction.  Use the planking fan on the planks between the bottom of the wale and the top of the garboard?

None of the wood species on my list for possibles for you will be available at a commercial hardwood dealer.  Do you have local tree services?  I would doubt that firewood would be a big deal there, so that is not a likely source - it is not really all that useful here - they deal in wood that is mostly open pore and coarse grain.   Is smoking your own meat a hobby there?   Are there county extension agents for farmers?  They may know of farmers who have useful species of trees if you tell them what you are looking for. 
A two foot long log is as long as you need.  If a log has too much diameter, a wedge can bisect it. 
Any tree harvesters on the island?  The stuff that you want is the stuff in their way.  Trash that they are happy to get rid of.
You will need a "friend" with a 14" or larger bandsaw.  You supply his blades.  Study on seasoning?  Look up how to make your own kiln.  Speed will not be an imperative, so a lower temp will work - it just needs to be high enough to suspend or kill fungus and wood eating insects.
 

Jorge,
 
I mean this with no degree of authority.  More in the way of an old farmer telling a soldier:  you might want to go another way than walking thru the mind field (as well as minefield)  that is in the direction that you are going.
 
Are you sure that the person who made this gift to you is really a friend?😉
 
Without doing more than a superficial inspection I have the following poor opinion of the original iteration of Mamoli :
 
The number of molds is not adequate for the degree of support needed.
The  relationship of the plans to those of the actual ship is an accident  if it happens to be close.
It looks to me as though the same plans were used for the hull of the old versions of these three:  Beagle  - Bounty  - Endeavor
The trash wood - only good for making pallets - this quality of species used has been mentioned more than once. 
There is no real remediation.  Even if you can do something to reverse the effects of age, the wood that you have was probably sprouted as junk. 
Alchemy has always been a delusion, a mind altering substance generated dream.  Your efforts will probably be a form of alchemy.
 
There are plenty of plans of Victory 1765 floating around.  A check to see if the Mamoli plans lines are close to being authentic may be prudent.
 
I have been doing a bit of lofting and I find that the difference between even a 90 gun liner and a 100+ gun liner is more than just 10 more guns would suggest.
There is a significant jump.  A 100 gun liner is a monster.  It is so much work.  If all that you want is a decorator style model, this Mamoli project may be all that you need.
If your purpose is a bit more serious,  you may wish to begin with a better foundation.  Not matter your choice, this project will be a significant time sink.
 
Dean
 

Steven,
 
when this one is completed, I have a ghost for you to try: a ballenger.   Never heard tell of it until it came up in a book about Henry V 's navy.