Jaager

Painting the whole sheet of paper and then using a guillotine type cutter looks to be as mistake proof and quick and dirty as it gets.  A knife and steel straight edge is less expensive, but introduces more chances of Parkinson's type twitches during a cut.
 
Paper - thin but not flimsy is my thinking - acid free -
I do not see any utility in putting paper over paint.  I have read of modelers who directly painted a hull doing plate sized patches -  which sounds like as much fun as hammering a nail thru my foot.
 
As for this whole thin painted paper process-  It is my thinking Old Son, that you would be pretty much cutting the trail on this whole thing.   Others have probably done it, but for this site you would likely be the first.
What we theoreticians are proposing is something that sounds likely to work and that solves the problems that the presently used methods struggle with.
A chance for fame - as it were.

If you go with paper and paint:
depending on how you choose to do it, the plates can be painted as individuals or several sheets used and different shades of copper used - a tint added differently to each of multiple batches - a mild checkerboard.
The blue or green should probably be used on the hull after the plates cover it.
 
If you follow @Bob Cleek's suggestion of shellac as an adhesive - ethyl alcohol is a easy reverse gear and no residue -  probably the way to go.
If you use PVA because you are OCD (like a lot of us)  isopropyl alcohol is the reverse-  but if the planking is bonded using PVA ( as it probably should be - CA is really ugly and a PITA as well )  the iso application done carefully.
 
Air brush - theory only here -  if used -  no brush marks 
There are two flavors of brush units
single action - one button - on-off - air pressure controlled up stream  -straight forward action - probably does as much as we need - less expensive - probably easier to clean - 
double action -  button effects the sort of spray - complicated - more practice necessary - the quality and thereby the expense is probably much more critical - if want to also take up detailing vans or other artwork, this may be what you want.

Would something like this do what you wish and be economical?
 
http://www.hobbylinc.com/innovative-ez-chrome-finishing-adhesive-backed-foil-6x10-slot-car-part-1:32-scale-1900?source=froogle&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsN7Wo77U_AIVg9zICh3UOQYXEAQYBSABEgIvzvD_BwE

Would something like this do what you wish and be economical?
 
http://www.hobbylinc.com/innovative-ez-chrome-finishing-adhesive-backed-foil-6x10-slot-car-part-1:32-scale-1900?source=froogle&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsN7Wo77U_AIVg9zICh3UOQYXEAQYBSABEgIvzvD_BwE

Would something like this do what you wish and be economical?
 
http://www.hobbylinc.com/innovative-ez-chrome-finishing-adhesive-backed-foil-6x10-slot-car-part-1:32-scale-1900?source=froogle&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsN7Wo77U_AIVg9zICh3UOQYXEAQYBSABEgIvzvD_BwE

Try 91% isopropyl alcohol to remove the PVA.
Then use Lineco Neutral pH Adhesive, Acid-Free PVA Formula  or other bookbinders PVA.
Or white PVA - very acidic, but dries clear.

Now that Johnny has mentioned color:
 
Lee Valley can provide flakes in 1/4 lb bags for less than $12.00  in three tints
 
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/finishes/76311-shellacs?item=56Z4028
 
light yellow and amber both come from Zinsser in small tins that are in solution.  This is probably the more convenient option.
 
Should you wish to reversibly darken the bottom,  using the dark amber (garnet?) flakes may provide a richer looking option.
An advantage is that should you decide that it is too dark, it can be made to go away using an alcohol soaked rag.
 
Actually, it is water that leaves a white ring.  Condensation outside a cold glass of anything will do it.  Shellac is probably not the best choice for furniture that can have stuff sitting on it.

As a literalist,  a sealer is used on open pore wood species to fill the pores to produce a smooth finish - on furniture.
For a ship model, it is to do a self favor if open pore wood species are avoided altogether for components that are not hidden.
 
Shellac is an excellent primer as well as a finish.
The first coat - the primer coat - should be diluted 1:1 with shellac thinner.
 
Shellac can produce a deep gloss finish if a serious number of thin coats are applied.  We do not usually want that.
A couple of finish coats is probably enough.
A fine abrasive - like a Scotch Brite pad can dull the sheen.  If it is too scratched, just apply another layer of shellac.
It is easy enough to do and pieces of old worn out T-shirts are free.  

Is there a profile plan?
 
The numbering is the key to placing the stations.  Aft the stations are at two bend intervals. 
I cannot discern if the last is 22-23  or 22-24.
 
The Fore is a bit fast and loose:
0 -F  =  6 bends 
F-H =   2 bends
H-K =  2 bends  (often I was dropped - too similar to 1)
K-M = 2 bends
M-O = 2 bends
O-P = 1 bend
P-Q = 1 bend
Q-R - 1 bend
R-S
S-T
 
Now all you need is R&S.
This ship would definitely qualify for Navy Board framing. 
There is no space between the bends.  The timbers are sided wider than the prototype.
My problem with using it =
The floor is significantly longer than than its usual ~60% - the head is above the turn of the bilge. 
The area of stock required and the loss to waste makes this expensive.
F1 is also long and involves a serious arc.
It works for miniature scales.
 
I could easily reproduce a fully framed hull  just from what you have above.
For me, no reconstruct of Body/cross section is necessary.  It is all there.  The mould loft did not need anymore than this to get timber patterns for the shipwrights.  They did not need every line of every frame.  The Stations alone were sufficient.  They could fake the transitions and so can I.
 
 
I would not know any of the important details that a profile provides though:
Deck locations
Port locations
Wales
Rails
Channels
 
 
 
 

If a member sets up an album with their photos, is the member able to edit and delete any photos in their album?

Is there a profile plan?
 
The numbering is the key to placing the stations.  Aft the stations are at two bend intervals. 
I cannot discern if the last is 22-23  or 22-24.
 
The Fore is a bit fast and loose:
0 -F  =  6 bends 
F-H =   2 bends
H-K =  2 bends  (often I was dropped - too similar to 1)
K-M = 2 bends
M-O = 2 bends
O-P = 1 bend
P-Q = 1 bend
Q-R - 1 bend
R-S
S-T
 
Now all you need is R&S.
This ship would definitely qualify for Navy Board framing. 
There is no space between the bends.  The timbers are sided wider than the prototype.
My problem with using it =
The floor is significantly longer than than its usual ~60% - the head is above the turn of the bilge. 
The area of stock required and the loss to waste makes this expensive.
F1 is also long and involves a serious arc.
It works for miniature scales.
 
I could easily reproduce a fully framed hull  just from what you have above.
For me, no reconstruct of Body/cross section is necessary.  It is all there.  The mould loft did not need anymore than this to get timber patterns for the shipwrights.  They did not need every line of every frame.  The Stations alone were sufficient.  They could fake the transitions and so can I.
 
 
I would not know any of the important details that a profile provides though:
Deck locations
Port locations
Wales
Rails
Channels
 
 
 
 

As a literalist,  a sealer is used on open pore wood species to fill the pores to produce a smooth finish - on furniture.
For a ship model, it is to do a self favor if open pore wood species are avoided altogether for components that are not hidden.
 
Shellac is an excellent primer as well as a finish.
The first coat - the primer coat - should be diluted 1:1 with shellac thinner.
 
Shellac can produce a deep gloss finish if a serious number of thin coats are applied.  We do not usually want that.
A couple of finish coats is probably enough.
A fine abrasive - like a Scotch Brite pad can dull the sheen.  If it is too scratched, just apply another layer of shellac.
It is easy enough to do and pieces of old worn out T-shirts are free.  

Try 91% isopropyl alcohol to remove the PVA.
Then use Lineco Neutral pH Adhesive, Acid-Free PVA Formula  or other bookbinders PVA.
Or white PVA - very acidic, but dries clear.

While any repair is going on:
Are we sure that a 3D digital model fits the definition of scratch built?

For something that is potentially the best of both worlds
 
This system seems to offer the ability to turn paper (something archival) into actual copper
and a chemically reactive material to allow customized areas of verdigris.
 
Reactive Metallic Paints Metal Effects Reactive Metallic Paints are water base and contain real metal particles. These paints will tarnish naturally over time and when exposed to the elements. Metal Effects Patina Aging Solutions & Activators will speed up the oxidation process to create beautiful, authentic Patina, Baroque and Rusted Iron finishes on any paintable surface. Reactive Metallic Paints can be applied using a brush, roller or spray equipment and is suitable for interior/exterior surfaces.
 
Modern Masters AM203-04 Metal Effects Primer , 4-Ounce , White $9.50 ($2.38/Fl Oz)
Modern Masters ME149-06 Reactive Metallic Copper, 6-Ounce $19.99 ($3.33/Fl Oz)
Modern Masters PA901-04 Aging Solution Green Patina, 4-Ounce $9.99 ($2.50/Fl Oz)
 Modern Masters PA902-04 Aging Solution Blue Patina, 4-Ounce $9.99 ($2.50/Fl Oz)
(Amazon)
 
An additional advantage is that by using paper, not only will the plates not pop off after a few years, it will be almost impossible to make the bottom look like it has contracted a severe case of Small Pox.

Painting the whole sheet of paper and then using a guillotine type cutter looks to be as mistake proof and quick and dirty as it gets.  A knife and steel straight edge is less expensive, but introduces more chances of Parkinson's type twitches during a cut.
 
Paper - thin but not flimsy is my thinking - acid free -
I do not see any utility in putting paper over paint.  I have read of modelers who directly painted a hull doing plate sized patches -  which sounds like as much fun as hammering a nail thru my foot.
 
As for this whole thin painted paper process-  It is my thinking Old Son, that you would be pretty much cutting the trail on this whole thing.   Others have probably done it, but for this site you would likely be the first.
What we theoreticians are proposing is something that sounds likely to work and that solves the problems that the presently used methods struggle with.
A chance for fame - as it were.

If you go with paper and paint:
depending on how you choose to do it, the plates can be painted as individuals or several sheets used and different shades of copper used - a tint added differently to each of multiple batches - a mild checkerboard.
The blue or green should probably be used on the hull after the plates cover it.
 
If you follow @Bob Cleek's suggestion of shellac as an adhesive - ethyl alcohol is a easy reverse gear and no residue -  probably the way to go.
If you use PVA because you are OCD (like a lot of us)  isopropyl alcohol is the reverse-  but if the planking is bonded using PVA ( as it probably should be - CA is really ugly and a PITA as well )  the iso application done carefully.
 
Air brush - theory only here -  if used -  no brush marks 
There are two flavors of brush units
single action - one button - on-off - air pressure controlled up stream  -straight forward action - probably does as much as we need - less expensive - probably easier to clean - 
double action -  button effects the sort of spray - complicated - more practice necessary - the quality and thereby the expense is probably much more critical - if want to also take up detailing vans or other artwork, this may be what you want.

For something that is potentially the best of both worlds
 
This system seems to offer the ability to turn paper (something archival) into actual copper
and a chemically reactive material to allow customized areas of verdigris.
 
Reactive Metallic Paints Metal Effects Reactive Metallic Paints are water base and contain real metal particles. These paints will tarnish naturally over time and when exposed to the elements. Metal Effects Patina Aging Solutions & Activators will speed up the oxidation process to create beautiful, authentic Patina, Baroque and Rusted Iron finishes on any paintable surface. Reactive Metallic Paints can be applied using a brush, roller or spray equipment and is suitable for interior/exterior surfaces.
 
Modern Masters AM203-04 Metal Effects Primer , 4-Ounce , White $9.50 ($2.38/Fl Oz)
Modern Masters ME149-06 Reactive Metallic Copper, 6-Ounce $19.99 ($3.33/Fl Oz)
Modern Masters PA901-04 Aging Solution Green Patina, 4-Ounce $9.99 ($2.50/Fl Oz)
 Modern Masters PA902-04 Aging Solution Blue Patina, 4-Ounce $9.99 ($2.50/Fl Oz)
(Amazon)
 
An additional advantage is that by using paper, not only will the plates not pop off after a few years, it will be almost impossible to make the bottom look like it has contracted a severe case of Small Pox.

For something that is potentially the best of both worlds
 
This system seems to offer the ability to turn paper (something archival) into actual copper
and a chemically reactive material to allow customized areas of verdigris.
 
Reactive Metallic Paints Metal Effects Reactive Metallic Paints are water base and contain real metal particles. These paints will tarnish naturally over time and when exposed to the elements. Metal Effects Patina Aging Solutions & Activators will speed up the oxidation process to create beautiful, authentic Patina, Baroque and Rusted Iron finishes on any paintable surface. Reactive Metallic Paints can be applied using a brush, roller or spray equipment and is suitable for interior/exterior surfaces.
 
Modern Masters AM203-04 Metal Effects Primer , 4-Ounce , White $9.50 ($2.38/Fl Oz)
Modern Masters ME149-06 Reactive Metallic Copper, 6-Ounce $19.99 ($3.33/Fl Oz)
Modern Masters PA901-04 Aging Solution Green Patina, 4-Ounce $9.99 ($2.50/Fl Oz)
 Modern Masters PA902-04 Aging Solution Blue Patina, 4-Ounce $9.99 ($2.50/Fl Oz)
(Amazon)
 
An additional advantage is that by using paper, not only will the plates not pop off after a few years, it will be almost impossible to make the bottom look like it has contracted a severe case of Small Pox.

If you go with paper and paint:
depending on how you choose to do it, the plates can be painted as individuals or several sheets used and different shades of copper used - a tint added differently to each of multiple batches - a mild checkerboard.
The blue or green should probably be used on the hull after the plates cover it.
 
If you follow @Bob Cleek's suggestion of shellac as an adhesive - ethyl alcohol is a easy reverse gear and no residue -  probably the way to go.
If you use PVA because you are OCD (like a lot of us)  isopropyl alcohol is the reverse-  but if the planking is bonded using PVA ( as it probably should be - CA is really ugly and a PITA as well )  the iso application done carefully.
 
Air brush - theory only here -  if used -  no brush marks 
There are two flavors of brush units
single action - one button - on-off - air pressure controlled up stream  -straight forward action - probably does as much as we need - less expensive - probably easier to clean - 
double action -  button effects the sort of spray - complicated - more practice necessary - the quality and thereby the expense is probably much more critical - if want to also take up detailing vans or other artwork, this may be what you want.

Painting the whole sheet of paper and then using a guillotine type cutter looks to be as mistake proof and quick and dirty as it gets.  A knife and steel straight edge is less expensive, but introduces more chances of Parkinson's type twitches during a cut.
 
Paper - thin but not flimsy is my thinking - acid free -
I do not see any utility in putting paper over paint.  I have read of modelers who directly painted a hull doing plate sized patches -  which sounds like as much fun as hammering a nail thru my foot.
 
As for this whole thin painted paper process-  It is my thinking Old Son, that you would be pretty much cutting the trail on this whole thing.   Others have probably done it, but for this site you would likely be the first.
What we theoreticians are proposing is something that sounds likely to work and that solves the problems that the presently used methods struggle with.
A chance for fame - as it were.

Painting the whole sheet of paper and then using a guillotine type cutter looks to be as mistake proof and quick and dirty as it gets.  A knife and steel straight edge is less expensive, but introduces more chances of Parkinson's type twitches during a cut.
 
Paper - thin but not flimsy is my thinking - acid free -
I do not see any utility in putting paper over paint.  I have read of modelers who directly painted a hull doing plate sized patches -  which sounds like as much fun as hammering a nail thru my foot.
 
As for this whole thin painted paper process-  It is my thinking Old Son, that you would be pretty much cutting the trail on this whole thing.   Others have probably done it, but for this site you would likely be the first.
What we theoreticians are proposing is something that sounds likely to work and that solves the problems that the presently used methods struggle with.
A chance for fame - as it were.

If you go with paper and paint:
depending on how you choose to do it, the plates can be painted as individuals or several sheets used and different shades of copper used - a tint added differently to each of multiple batches - a mild checkerboard.
The blue or green should probably be used on the hull after the plates cover it.
 
If you follow @Bob Cleek's suggestion of shellac as an adhesive - ethyl alcohol is a easy reverse gear and no residue -  probably the way to go.
If you use PVA because you are OCD (like a lot of us)  isopropyl alcohol is the reverse-  but if the planking is bonded using PVA ( as it probably should be - CA is really ugly and a PITA as well )  the iso application done carefully.
 
Air brush - theory only here -  if used -  no brush marks 
There are two flavors of brush units
single action - one button - on-off - air pressure controlled up stream  -straight forward action - probably does as much as we need - less expensive - probably easier to clean - 
double action -  button effects the sort of spray - complicated - more practice necessary - the quality and thereby the expense is probably much more critical - if want to also take up detailing vans or other artwork, this may be what you want.

For something that is potentially the best of both worlds
 
This system seems to offer the ability to turn paper (something archival) into actual copper
and a chemically reactive material to allow customized areas of verdigris.
 
Reactive Metallic Paints Metal Effects Reactive Metallic Paints are water base and contain real metal particles. These paints will tarnish naturally over time and when exposed to the elements. Metal Effects Patina Aging Solutions & Activators will speed up the oxidation process to create beautiful, authentic Patina, Baroque and Rusted Iron finishes on any paintable surface. Reactive Metallic Paints can be applied using a brush, roller or spray equipment and is suitable for interior/exterior surfaces.
 
Modern Masters AM203-04 Metal Effects Primer , 4-Ounce , White $9.50 ($2.38/Fl Oz)
Modern Masters ME149-06 Reactive Metallic Copper, 6-Ounce $19.99 ($3.33/Fl Oz)
Modern Masters PA901-04 Aging Solution Green Patina, 4-Ounce $9.99 ($2.50/Fl Oz)
 Modern Masters PA902-04 Aging Solution Blue Patina, 4-Ounce $9.99 ($2.50/Fl Oz)
(Amazon)
 
An additional advantage is that by using paper, not only will the plates not pop off after a few years, it will be almost impossible to make the bottom look like it has contracted a severe case of Small Pox.

With a table saw or bandsaw,  it is important to match the number of teeth with the stock thickness.  If there are too many teeth the gullets fill with sawdust before they exit.  Once the gullets are full the cutting edge becomes a rubbing edge.  From that point on there is mostly heat and perhaps a dulling that is greater than if the blade was removing wood the whole way.  A dull hot blade on a bandsaw snaps.  For a table saw blade it is 3-4 teeth in the cut.  For a bandsaw - a resaw blade is 3-4 TPI,  Bandsaw blades have a deeper gullet - I think.  Given that some saws advertise a depth of cut of 13" or more, the greater volume of gullet makes sense.
To make an extrapolation:  a scroll saw blade may be subject to rules.  Fine blades do not seem to have much gullet at all.  If a scroll cut seems to take too long or the blades break more quickly than they ought,  going with a more coarse blade ? 
 
Now really crap and poor quality plywood may have significant voids.  This would reduce the functional thickness of the stock.  A finer tooth blade may work better than the equation predicts.  But, an additional effect of using a POB mold cut from low density ply with visible air spaces is that the first layer of planking has an even worse bond and the already poor bond provided by end grain.  The whole process may go better if end grain and any voids were first treated with an injection of PVA,  but the PVA not allowed to pool on the surface (wiped smooth), and allowed to polymerize (set) (cure).   If CA is used to bond the first layer of planking,  a test will be wanted to determine if CA plays nice with PVA.