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Coyote_6
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Everything posted by Coyote_6
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@Bob Cleek - some very interesting alternatives. Never thought about fishing line!! @Roger Pellett - very reassuring!
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If it's not too late to carry on this topic... My model (plank on bulkhead) called for glue and tiny (brass?) nails, with the nail heads ultimately sanded off. To date I have been simply attaching the planks to the bulkhead and the preceding plank with PVA glue alone. I am now considering the longevity of solely using the PVA glue (in abundance). If it has taken me 20 years to build her, I would like her to last at least that long... I fully agree with the statement above, "where one requires strength, archival permanence, or both, I think that it is important to mechanically fasten model parts wherever possible". But what I want to know is, based on experience, how long/well do PVA only plankings hold up over time? R, Steve
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And Joshua - you should post your cannon prototypes in your build log - they would be cool to see!! -
Hey Joshua. Yeah, they came with the kit and I plan to use the kit guns and mounts at this point. They look nice to my eye and center in the gunports well. Not sure how they scale (kit scale says 1:58). The Constructo kit is stylized in many ways - more wood art than scale accuracy. (100+ foot long planks would have been tough to find/use in the 1800's I am told 😜 - that said, the lines look very close to Chapelle's plans - so form is very good, building techniques stylized.) I will probably try to blue the metal sleds, and if that doesn't take maybe just flat or semigloss black. Toying with the idea of Colonial Green on the inner bulwarks.
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Azzoun - I checked out your log to date and it is very inspirational work. I hope you can get back at it and enjoy it as much as I do. She takes a month to do in wood what one could do in plastic in an hour, but I suppose if it was easy it wouldn't be as rewarding. I will follow your PdN build as well and look forward to your progress!! Edit (OK - I went to follow and I have already been following your build since February! Lookin good! )
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The Journey continues with minor progress: June 2, 2023: July 20, 2023: My first attempt at a stealer (The kit's sapely wood is awfully rough and fuzzy!): And more adventures in creative clamping:
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Planking continues slowly but surely. Taking the advice given, I measured the remaining planking runs on the bulkheads in millimeters and obtained the following: The following conclusions: 1. Obviously planks will have to be thinned over the first three bulkheads. 2. The remaining bulkheads vary at this point by the width of only one plank, but will require 14-15 planks to close the hull. (Very minor material removal on each plank on "shorter" bulkheads.) 3. In retrospect, the two dark planks under the gunports would have been a good place to have corrected any planking issues, as they are ultimately covered by the ships bumpers. Unfortunately, I believe strongly in glue and I don't think they are coming off any time soon, at least not in one piece. So planking continues, and just today I had the revelation that I could work on other aspects while the planking glue dries! Creative Clamping 101... Thanks for all the advice to date.
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Is this type of sharp point not recommended because it is not traditionally found in 1:1 ships? I have seen it in several internet examples and it seems a simple solution and difficult to detect unless you are looking for it. Maybe they are generally used on first planking for expediency?
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Thank you @Gregory. I will probably be unable to get wider material as I have only been able to find some from Europe. Limited to current width, I may be able to do the two into three. But the graphics are very helpful. But I guess first I better get some measurements. I really appreciate your advice "don't let 'perfect' be your goal". It allows one to accept some compromise where necessary. We'll see what we can do here. Thanks again!
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@Pirate adam I will take your advice and measure the remaining planking run for each bulkhead and do some math ! Then I can look at some options as well. Til now I have been able to keep my plank runs pretty perpendicular to the horizon. The stern is rising but I thought it would get better after the deadwood. But measurements would make that much clearer!
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Thanks Adam. I think the run on the second bulkhead is very small and want to avoid a bunch of very thin uniform planks at the bow. I wonder if this is my solution (from the NRG half hull project - not my image)? It looks hard to do though!
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In profile I am starting to develop a "smiley face effect", where the planks are riding higher at the bow and stern than in the middle. I have been removing about 1/4 height of each plank at the bow to minimize the effect. I want to avoid a bunch of skinny planks (1/2 width or less) at the bow. Anyone have any thoughts on how to proceed elegantly here? Depending on how she sands I would like to spare myself the second planking - the current planks are 2mm thick.
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I feel like it's less about planking and more like sitting around watching glue dry.
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@GrandpaPhil. That's awesome! I think with careful filing and sanding I should be able to get there. What filler/coating do you use on a card project like that? It looks challenging.
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Curious before I go much farther. Has anyone else done a ship where the aft deadwood era was so far above (proud of) the keel before shaping? The false keel was only like 4 mm thick, so to shave it for the planking would be to effectively remove it. I will be targeting the hull strakes to be 0.5 mm proud of the sternpost/keel after sanding. Will this work? Any thoughts appreciated!
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A little shaping of the garboard strakes at the bow... But the stern will likely wait 'til the deadwood is more filled in. About 2 mm proud of the keel at this time.
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So with the sternpost fitted, the garboard planks went on without a hitch. At only 5 mm wide the addition is almost insignificant, but you have to have someplace to start. Starboard and Port. This model has very nice lines and accessories but is not a stellar model of how a real ship was built. Without a rabbet to install the planks, a lot of careful sanding and filing will be required to make her fair. I think it can be accomplished but I will have to be careful not to eat away the stempost, sternpost or keel. In any respect, a milestone.
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Finally some progress. The sternpost has been adapted to the keel/false keel. The end product is very much as the PdN appears in Chapelle's Search for Speed Under Sail, so I am pleased. Particularly with the uniform gap between sternpost, keel and rudder. Whew!
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So I was working on the port and starboard garboard planks, with a plan to fit the stern portion of the keel and rudder after planking. It quickly became clear the stern keel and rudder needs fitting prior to planking, so stay tuned for that! (Stern keel piece [sternpost?] Not included in image, but it clearly does not "fit" at this time.) Here I've shaped the keel to match the rudder shape, with proper spacing between the two. (More or less, anyway! )
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The next natural progression at this point would seem to be hull planking. This brings me to my second issue with the kit - the plywood framing "keel" in no way conforms with the provided stem, forefoot and keel provided. Test fitting convinced me to attach these pieces before planking so I could iron out any issues. I had fitted the best I could and ended up with significant gaps. Now that we're at the point of adding the garboard strakes, it is time to address the issue. Custom shaped a piece of walnut to fill the largest gap between the plywood framing keel and forefoot and then resorted to PVA glue and sanding to fill all the gap lines. It looks passable, but staining will be the true test.
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Finally, some progress! The gun and oar ports have been framed. On to hull planking.
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Your PdN is fabulous GrandpaPhil. I looked at your entire build log when I first signed up here and was amazed, both by the beauty of the model and what you can do with card! I can see why she's your favorite. I am leaning towards brass pedestals, but now must consider a cradle as well. The cradle would leave the ship unmolested and removable for inspection, whereas I think the pedestals may require drilling in to the keel and having fasteners or rods protrude. You definitely have given me something to think about! (Not that I generally want people "inspecting" my ship, but I think I like the idea of the ship being the ship, with no protruding add-ons or modifications.)
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And this is sound advice - not something a novice like me would generally consider. I soooo wanted to make that linear keel level - it would not have looked good in retrospect!!
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Thanks for the compliment. Hopefully I can keep things moving and keep the quality up!
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Well, to paraphrase Captain Barbosa from Pirates of the Caribbean, " then we have an accord." I had not considered waterline in the equation. Since most plans I've seen of the PdN depict the waterline approximately parallel to the weatherdeck (accounting for generally equivalent deck sheer fore and aft), I think everyone is in agreement. See this image from Chapelle in The History of American Sailing Ships: I will select some brass pedestals that will keep the weatherdeck and waterline level with the base, allowing the keel to be lower aft to demonstrate her drag. Thank you all for sparing me from making a mistake here!! I appreciate all the input!!
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