oakheart

It's also available in square and rectangular strips. I have some 0.5mm square by Plastruct, made in USA Tim

Thanks for the compliment Hakan @Wintergreen I just checked and mine are X3, that could be part of my problem... I will see if I can get other lenses for this model. Tim

I do have an Optivisor style head mounted magnifier, which I find can help to see things more clearly, but I do find it difficult to get the hand / eye co-ordinated when magnified, again I probably need to practice Tim

I will watch out for that, thanks for the compliments. Tim

The serving of the blocks is getting better, latest at top 🙂 I spent the morning making a rough serving machine from scrap / parts found in the workshop. It really does help. As usual there are loads of examples on machine right on this forum. this rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper .................. Tim

Just go with the one without rails and include a strip of styrene or wood for us to add, it is a kit after all, we need to have some work to do 🙂 Tim

Thanks for the compliment @archjofo, you have perfect timing thanks for the link, just what I needed. Tim

Still a bit lumpy but better, as they say practice makes perfect.... we shall see. Tim

looking closer at the Science Museum Cutter model, the rope does not appear to be seized around the block and the length that is seized is much longer than what I have been trying to do, it looks very much like your example @Thukydides I think I will try and emulate this style on Speedy, I still have to go and find out how to do the fake splice. Tim

Thanks @Thukydides I need all the help I can get. Your example helps a lot. Thanks for the compliment too. I will go and take a look at your alert log. tim

Here is yet more practice at stropping the blocks. This is a 5 and 4mm block with 0.5mm rope. My seizing is getting a little better, still a long way to go. Hope I am using all the correct terms here? Tim

Hi Paul I made it over here and caught up on reading through the log. Thanks for a brilliant build and log, it's an inspiration for me to finish my cutter speedy. Although "Speedy" is a different cutter they share a lot of similarities. I shall certainly be using a few of the techniques you used on this build. Tim

Mixed a better colour for the blocks, very happy now. Tim

Thanks Paul, I will go and take a look at what he listed. The compliment is most welcome , thank you. Tim

Hi Tony I had to file a shallow groove top and bottom on my 5mm single blocks to make it work well after much searching I am going to use these on my "Speedy" Tim

I would have to second that, I too have just received some Seahorse 5mm single blocks from Modelnet and they are really very good. I have painted mine to look more like boxwood. Thanks for the recommendation George. Don't you just love this place, where else could you find all of the information we have access to. Tim

Hi Paul, Love your Cheerful build, many ideas there that will help me with speedy. What sizes of blocks did you use? On these blocks no shaping was required at all. I did add a slight groove with a triangle file across the top and bottom for the seized rope that runs across the face, then just gave them a lick of paint. Now I need to practice my seizing, that in the photo above makes me think I have a lot to learn. I have been lent a "whip finishing tool" by a fly tying mate, so off to YouTube to find out how to use it. Tim

I got some Seahorse 3D printed blocks from ModelNet on eBay in the post today . see https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/165760407676 I am really pleased, they are very good. Did not like the dark brown they are printed, so painted it to be more like boxwood, not quite the right colour yet, but not bad. They could maybe do with a quick sand down as well. But from a normal viewing distance you may not see the print lines it looks worse from some angles here are a couple very close up, warts and all. I have to remember that nobody would ever see this kind of detail when viewing the model. Tim

This is like one those spot the difference games, the brass items on the lid of the companion way have also moved.......... The photos have got to be from different sessions / times Tim

Over my coffee this morning I went though all of the pages and counted up the blocks etc. that are required for the cutter rigging. This will help when ordering parts. From Fore and Aft book by Lennarth Pettersson ( note I have the Kindle version of the book so page numbering may be different from the print version ) page name single single double triple Fiddle sheave deadeyes 4mm 5mm 16 Channels 16 5mm 17 Shrouds 4 18 Toprope 4 2 19 Topmast shrouds 4 20 Forestay 1 21 Forestay 1 9.5mm 22 Backstay 1 3 1 1 23 bowsprit guys 24 Jib in/out 1 1 25 jib halliard 3 26 Lower yard sling 2 4 27 TS yard Halliard 2 1 28 Lifts 2 2 29 Clueline & sheets 4 30 lower yard braces 2 31 ts yard braces 2 32 throat halliard 2 33 Peak Halliard 6 1 34 topping lift 2 2 35 mainsheet 2 36 Jib 37 foresail 2 38 Hoists 1 1 totals 20 19 11 2 3 11 17 Tim

On page 11 of his book he say's his drawings are based on the fully rigged model in the London Science Museum, which is the one featured on their website. So I guess we can use the photos of the Science Museum model in conjunction with the drawings in the book to get a better understanding of the overall rigging. Tim

Hi Gregory @Gregory, thanks for sharing the link I just took another look at those images and they do show a lot of details that are hard to find elsewhere. I just noticed the model has 5 shrouds and deadeyes, my Speedy and chucks Cheerful only have 4 ? tim

wow @Gregory, that is going to be really helpful, thanks so much. Not clutter just good research and explanation. I will keep plodding away until I get to that point, then I'm sure there will be a few questions. @vossiewulf I am happy to host the discussion here if you like, but it might be better over in the other discussion as it would save that from becoming fragmented. Having printed out Bill's rigging diagram full scale ( I did 12 A4 sheets and taped them together ), one thing is very apparent already, I will have to extend my rope walk, I can only do about a 950mm, which for some of the 'lines' is too short. Tim

Thanks @vossiewulf I will look out for those errors and take a look at Chucks Cheerful log, I have seen the Science Museum photos online of the Model that Petersson used for his book, I did not know we had other photos in the gallery. Tim

No, It was your model and log that inspired me in the first place, thank you. Tim