oakheart
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Everything posted by oakheart
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I have added a corner timber and I think it really helps to tidy up the stern area. I need to line them all up and glue in place.
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Thanks druxey @druxey I may have a go at making one and see what it looks like, a bit more research needed
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Now I am confused. I do not get the reference? What I think is that Bill who designed this model in 1972 simplified it to make it easier to build. I am learning to build a model ship from wood and having fun doing it, so adding detail that he left out is part of that. here are two counter timbers made but not fixed yet, should I add two more in the corners, it would also hide that ugly gap. Tim
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As you said earlier these details are not shown on the plans and any paintings tend to idealize the ship to look neat and tidy. Maybe I could also add some of the barrels and other details as shown on the 'Kite' painting Tim
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Thanks Craig. So as 'Master and Commander' I decree that counter timbers shall be fitted 🙂 Tim
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and just to confirm my decision, Vanguard @chris watton is bringing out a new kit for the cutter Sherbourne looking at that, I realise that there is some woodwork missing from the transom on this model, I think I will add that. What are they called, on the transom, those angled timbers. after that - I really am going to line the gun ports Tim
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Thanks Craig @iMustBeCrazy I have done some more research and think I will leave it as it is. Why examples of Cutters from that period @Chuck Cheerful looks like this, it's a simple hole Pilgrim BM45 although built in 1895 she is a similar size and style of ship and still sailing. other contemporary cutter models at RMG do indeed show the stern decked or boxed in, it looks like anything you wanted you could have. It does beg the question, with these very simple designs, how did they stop a following sea from spurting up through the gaping hole ? was it just canvas as Craig @iMustBeCrazy suggested? Tim
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Thanks @druxey I have just started reading the thread that Craig @iMustBeCrazy gave a link too above. Was there any conclusion yet? I can't see any details on the drawings I have, also the kit that @Thunder built did not give any details either. Was it just a given. The shipwright just did what was always done. I will be quite happy to make something suitable for this cutter model if I can find the shape and size. It's all a voyage of discovery for me at this stage in my model ship building. Tim
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Thanks Craig, that is indeed a very interesting discussion. My solution is much simpler. A sort of skirting, it won't stop much water but it looks a bit neater than just a ragged hole. Tim
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First thanks for all the likes guys The tiller is now finished, I just need to put some kind of lining around the post just to neaten it up What's next? I do have a list somewhere maybe I should look at it Tim
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Yes now I look the RMG draught is different again to both that and Bills drawing. I like the Danish shed better. looks to be more leg room. Tim
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And some whittling later a much nicer tiller now to tidy up round the base. Tim
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the 'sheds' WC and pantry also look better in the orginal Tim
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Thanks Craig, that is much more elegant, I will remake it to suit. I forgot, your Lapwing is a sister to Speedy Is that from zaz6425? I have a copy of that, should have checked it. Tim
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Good to see you making sawdust, looking good Tim
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Working up to the tiller. My feeling about the original drawing is that it does not look right? I have a scale and figure ( @ 1:48 about 5' 9" tall ) which I have placed in bills drawing I have this photo of BM45 Pilgrim built in 1895 ( much later I know ) but about the same size as speedy. here is my rough cut based on Bills original drawing does it need to be longer / higher to look right ? Tim and yet another rabbit hole, Alice here I come.............. may be of interest to others, here is Pilgrim BM45 in 2008 before her £1 million rebuild
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Gudgeons in place still to be bolted down and blacked. The centre one I cut a bit short, If I can find the energy I may remake it, then again once the model is finished I may never notice it. I need to trim the pins to a better length. Tim
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Always ready to rush ahead. I tapered the rudder top to bottom and fitted the top two pintles. Then blacked them, I think they turned out pretty well. I am very pleased closeup you can see there is a bit of bleed round the straps but it almost adds to the reality of the model? they do look the part Tim
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Hi Ian I have used Pritt stick to glue printed paper plans to ply wood, just needs a wet rag wiped over the paper to remove. With my 1:48 scale, 85ft Harbour tug I used 3mm ply for bulkheads, 3mm ( 1/8") balsa planks 6mm wide, then used brown parcel paper and Ronseal matt varnish instead of fibre glass with Halfords grey primer over the top of that. It ran all last summer without a leak 🙂 I wish I had taken photos of the build now. I used cereal packet card for the superstructure which was also painted with Halfords grey primer. I am amazed at how well it has performed at the clubs pond all last summer, as long as it does not sink I hope to keep going for years. I love its knock about quality. The other things I am build tend to become precious, you worry about damaging them. Tim
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Hi Craig @iMustBeCrazy talking of notch, it looks like the straps are rebated onto the wood of both the rudder and sternpost? Don't think I will be doing that. Tim
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Hi Allan @allanyed, thanks for the compliment. Those look a little complex to replicate at this scale, but I may amend the shape a bit
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Thanks @Gregory it will be the next job on the list.......
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Here is the rudder just balanced in place, now I can see how much I need to move the pintle. these photos do show warts and all, don't they Tim
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Thanks Gregory @Gregory I really was not sure about the position. I will adjust the position. Tim
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Never too late Allan I have reshaped the leading edge of the rudder, not sure if the pintles work that shape? still work to do on cleaning up and detailing, but it begins to look better thanks to the advice from @allanyed @iMustBeCrazy @druxey @Thunder
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