Jump to content
New Publication - Ship Modeler's Handbook - They're back in stock! Thank you for your patience. ×

Bryan Woods

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    435

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Bryan Woods

  1. Bryan Woods
    I’m starting my third model after reading through the manual and checking out other build logs.
  2. Bryan Woods
    I installed magnets in base to help steady it. I really didn’t want to glue it on. I had trouble trying to tie half hitches with the thread being conscious of the small amount given. I use clove hitches often. They made it a lot easier to be conservative with the thread. The back stays went smoother. After gluing the lines at the stay straps near the mast head, I tied the clove at the bottom and slid it up into position, pulled tight and glued. Hoisted the sail And completed my second model boat! Before Before I start Muscongus Bay lobster smack I’m going to build the Catspaw Dinghy Lines Model by the wooden boat store.
  3. Bryan Woods
    Thank you Claire for asking a great question! Thank you Bob for the super helpful answer!
  4. Bryan Woods
    I had some time this week to venture into another “new to me” part of the build.
  5. Bryan Woods
    Modeller. You have done amazing work! I’m just finishing the Pram. But seeing yours makes me want to build it again. Thank you for sharing your skills and talents. I’m excited to learn more on the smack.
  6. Bryan Woods
    I just took a quick run though and it looks like it’s exactly what I needed! I’m just starting the rigging.
  7. Bryan Woods
    Thank you Ryland, you could say I’m an improviser.
  8. Bryan Woods
    Great Job Major! That stern looks outstanding.
  9. Bryan Woods
    Back with a little more progress. There was about a week of painting. Here’s the outside of the hull with her coats. The smallest width of painters tape I could find locally was 3/4” and was hard to make the curves clean. This made taping for the inside easier. Tiller was next. I settled with a slightly bent rod instead mushroom headed one. The rudder. This is where I strayed away from the instructions. I had my doubts about my ability to assemble tiny hinged brackets square enough to connect with receivers on the stern transom. So, here’s my way. First build both gudgeons. I slid the 1/16” rod inside tube and rolled it under my knife not using a lot of pressure. As the tube cut into, I slid it down the rod. The first one I let come off. It was a task getting the rough cut tube 3/16” long back on. So I tried to keep them together as best as possible. Instead of nails I cut tiny specks of copper wire and just glued them over the holes. After checking and double checking the placement, I glued both complete assemblies to the rudder. More nailing. Good thing most of the people that will see my model, besides the ones in this forum, will probably have less than great eyesight. Mast, boom and gaff corners were planed down. Then I spun them with one hand as I ran sand paper up and down. Here are a few metal tools that came in handy. Reading that the chafing pad was usually made of copper, I thought mine could be too. To sum up my progress. And enjoyed every minute!
  10. Bryan Woods
    Good morning Major, I had the same questions as you did and handled it in the same manner. I’m starting to realize the kit designers just kinda tell you what’s next and about where it goes. That leaves us to research other sources or think it through to get the results. I have no knowledge of ships or sailing, so that makes the challenge for me even greater. The enjoyment I’m getting from learning to build these models is definitely worth the extra effort. MSW has had a lot to do with my understanding .
  11. Bryan Woods
    Thank you, Bob.
  12. Bryan Woods
    Hello builders, we all think of different ways to accomplish our needs. Here is a small example I’m going to share. I cut the shape of the molds on the build board in a small box to make a stand for the work inside the hull. I’ll be honest the steps after the planking have had me out of my comfort zone. I left off bending and cutting the floor board cleats. I was supposed to use 3/16”x 1/8” stock. I looked, picked ,soaked ,bent, cut and glued the 3/64”x1/8” stock. I wonder how that’s going to work for the floor boards? I can’t wait to see. I’m going to temporarily stick the floor boards on so I can see if I can recover without backing up. I had to shorten all the boards for them to rest on the half size cleats. I think I can live with the change. Now wondering what I’m going to use for the rub rails. I’m no different than everybody else wondering why both boards for the mast step have holes. I just glued them both and plugged the bottom with a cleat that helped me place it between the frames. Not my favorite tool but careful biting one tooth of the saw to slowly cut through the inwales. I used two of the sides of a plank sheet to make the rub rails. I put the factory cut edge down and the uneven edge at the top so I cut it down level. The hull is ready for some color. That’s all the progress for the last week, I did find a decade old Mindwest display cramped between other materials at my local country hardware store. They had no idea they even had it.
  13. Bryan Woods
    Well it was a struggle for me. Reading yours brought it back like it was yesterday! Lol. l’ll try to post tonight so you can see what could happen. 😳
  14. Bryan Woods
    Hey Don, I actually experienced most of your log this week !
  15. Bryan Woods
    Nice looking boat you got there.
  16. Bryan Woods
    Those are GREAT! In fact I have two real items that look just lik’em.
  17. Bryan Woods
    Thank you for the encouraging words!
  18. Bryan Woods
    Hello from middle Tennessee. Planks are fitting well bending them in the jig. I have had some issues identifying which side of the plank to bevel or rabbet. I used mini wooden clothes pins to clamp the garboard and the second plank. Then on the sheer plank there wasn’t enough room for the clothes pins. I drilled small holes in reg. size clothes pins and pulled a rubber band through using a small wire. I looped one end through the other to make an adjustable clamp. I noticed a misalignment when looking over the Pram after all the planks were installed. After placing the skeg and bilge keels the hull was removed and the dagger board case was assembled and installed. The first frame was #3. I used the tick strip given in the manual to place it. After marking for frame #2 placement I used a scrap stick to measure both sides to square it to #3. i decided to bend the inwales like I did the other planks and then cut them in the appropriate position of the boats curve. I fitted both stern and bow quarter knees. After placing the first pair of thwart frames, I thought it would help me best to fit the thwarts as I go. After one pair was installed, I placed the thwart on the pair and slid the other under so I could mark were I needed to glue it. I repeated this for the other frames. Not excited about the instructions saying to boil the small floor cleats. I again turned to my bending jig for an option. And that brings us to the present.
  19. Bryan Woods
    Well done! I’ve had some of the same issues crop up. There’s no telling how much time I spent looking at the planks deciding if it port or starboard, broke a few things and unglued a few. Hopefully learning.
  20. Bryan Woods
    While I was waiting on the bench vice,I beveled and tried my best the rabbets on the planks that got them. Wanting to bend them but the transoms weren’t ready for the build board. I was trying to scale the curve so I could make a jig to bend them when I heard a voice from my late father, “ if you keep touching it you’re going to mess it up.” Completed both transoms Soon after I glued the bottom planks I noticed the stern had an issue. I cut both bottom planks and the keel plank loose from the transom. Then sanded the bevel and held the transom up until I got it clamped. Soaked and bent the next plank.
  21. Bryan Woods
    We’ll done!
  22. Bryan Woods
    All you done looks great! Your experience will for sure help me when I get started back on the Pram. Bryan
  23. Bryan Woods
    They were in my kit too. The directions didn’t mention them so I thought they were for the other builds. I’ve started on the Norwegian sailing Pram so I’m going to use them on it. More minds more info. Thanks Bryan
  24. Bryan Woods
  25. Bryan Woods
    Hey, I’m not an experienced modeler and I have just started building this boat. I looked at the end of the tubing I had in my kit and it was sawed off, probably by a small band saw. But I think a thin cutting blade for a Dremel would work. Or you could roll it under your knife and eventually cut through it, but that may take awhile. Good job, by the way, and thank you for better clearing my vision for the future build. Bryan

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

×
×
  • Create New...