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Bryan Woods

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Everything posted by Bryan Woods

  1. Bryan Woods
    I wish I had the time to mention all my woops that required extra attention. But that will have to wait till I’m retired.
  2. Bryan Woods
    I finally found some time for the smack. I fitted then glued the deck halves on. Wow! What a space there is from the bottom of frame 9 to the spine. Then I started finding other spots that could use a little. Where frame 4 meets the spine on both sides. As I was working on the starboard side I heard a crack from frame 1. I think it was just the lower part popping a glue joint not the wood. But I cleated it and let it set up before I proceeded. I left a larger gap for the rabbet than I should have. They give a gage and I put it in but for some reason I slid it down. Oh yeah I remember, I didn’t have enough confidence in myself that I could get the garboard in it. I always could find places that I thought needed attention. First plank fitted and glued. I soaked the planks in warm water for several minutes then clipped them to hull to shape. I glued one side while training the planks on the other. I kept a paper clip on the side I was last working on so I didn’t rip off the side that I glued. Frame 8 may have needed took down a little more. I cut a clear plastic strip and tried holding over the frames to detect issues like this. But my “almost no experience “ didn’t know what to look for. While the planks were still moist but clipped I would trim the end of the plank that over hung. I noticed while wet the wood cut so easy. I just gave it a super light touch and a surgical approach. I can’t wait to get started back!
  3. Bryan Woods
    Your build looks amazing! It will be a while before I start mine but I will definitely heed the advice on the cling wrapping the Strong back. Can you tell me about how much CA you used coating the inside of the hull?
  4. Bryan Woods
    This boat is what sparked my interest in boat modeling. It’s on my shelf just waiting for me to get skilled enough to do as good as job as you have. I’m sure I’ll be thanking you in the future for the help I’ll receive from your labor. 😁
  5. Bryan Woods
    Thank you for your compliments! About the planking idea Joe, it was from a log I saw here on a Midway kit. Now for an example not to do. Late last night after I finished my log, I went back out to the shop and thought I’d finish the last frames.The hull was clamped by the keel in my vice. I fitted first then glued #9,#2,#1 and then #10 with the transom attached. All went smoothly, I thought. This morning, ready to start beveling the stern, I noticed when fitting the deck, the deck plank was short. For some reason I thought the problem was on top of the spine and started sanding down the spine, top of frame #10 , I got some of #9 I think the port side of #7 and #8. Luckily I wasn’t using power equipment! Finally, I thought to take the hull out of the vice and really look at it. That was the bad part. I had worked at a time I shouldn’t have. I only kept a top view, instead of taking it out and turning it all around. This is last nights view. Now let’s zoom in. Some of these are self explanatory. I knew I had no other choice than to remove and redo. It’s sad to say but I’m a pretty good gluer. Correction, I may be a good “sticker togetherer” but not a gluer. The problem was too much glue.It packed in between the frame and spine and had no where to go. Since I had fit tested right before it was glued, it fit with no resistance.I pressed until it stopped. Looking down, I didn’t see the problem. Now for the damage, I did on the top. I needed some filler to replace what I sanded off. So a day spent correcting a mistake, but I need to add, the challenge was great and I believe I enjoyed the day as much as the next day that I get back to it.
  6. Bryan Woods
    I noticed frame #3 may block the pin hole for the centerboard so I pulled off the centerboard to get it painted. That got me asking what all needs to be done in the cockpit finish wise, before the build continues. Checking other finished models, I decided to paint aft side of frame #6 and both sides of #7 above the floor. Another feature I wanted to add was planking to the cockpit floor and the deck. I purchased 1:87 scale 2”x10” planks in different lengths from 8’ to 14’ long. They are around 1”x4” from 2’ to 4’ on the 1:24 scale. They are hardwood and I think it will be a nice add. Since I was going to plank the cockpit I went ahead and fitted the seat supports so I could plank around them. While frames #7 & #8 were drying I started getting the transom glued to the #10 frame. These are not the easiest parts to glue together. I got them together, but a little off center. Next was the cockpit floor. Frames #1 & #2 are next. Last week when I test fitted the frames #1’s slot in the spine it was too deep. I cut a small 1/8” cube to build it up, then sanded it down so frame #1 was level with the top of the spine.
  7. Bryan Woods
    I’m starting my third model after reading through the manual and checking out other build logs.
  8. Bryan Woods
    I installed magnets in base to help steady it. I really didn’t want to glue it on. I had trouble trying to tie half hitches with the thread being conscious of the small amount given. I use clove hitches often. They made it a lot easier to be conservative with the thread. The back stays went smoother. After gluing the lines at the stay straps near the mast head, I tied the clove at the bottom and slid it up into position, pulled tight and glued. Hoisted the sail And completed my second model boat! Before Before I start Muscongus Bay lobster smack I’m going to build the Catspaw Dinghy Lines Model by the wooden boat store.
  9. Bryan Woods
    Thank you Claire for asking a great question! Thank you Bob for the super helpful answer!
  10. Bryan Woods
    I had some time this week to venture into another “new to me” part of the build.
  11. Bryan Woods
    Modeller. You have done amazing work! I’m just finishing the Pram. But seeing yours makes me want to build it again. Thank you for sharing your skills and talents. I’m excited to learn more on the smack.
  12. Bryan Woods
    I just took a quick run though and it looks like it’s exactly what I needed! I’m just starting the rigging.
  13. Bryan Woods
    Thank you Ryland, you could say I’m an improviser.
  14. Bryan Woods
    Great Job Major! That stern looks outstanding.
  15. Bryan Woods
    Back with a little more progress. There was about a week of painting. Here’s the outside of the hull with her coats. The smallest width of painters tape I could find locally was 3/4” and was hard to make the curves clean. This made taping for the inside easier. Tiller was next. I settled with a slightly bent rod instead mushroom headed one. The rudder. This is where I strayed away from the instructions. I had my doubts about my ability to assemble tiny hinged brackets square enough to connect with receivers on the stern transom. So, here’s my way. First build both gudgeons. I slid the 1/16” rod inside tube and rolled it under my knife not using a lot of pressure. As the tube cut into, I slid it down the rod. The first one I let come off. It was a task getting the rough cut tube 3/16” long back on. So I tried to keep them together as best as possible. Instead of nails I cut tiny specks of copper wire and just glued them over the holes. After checking and double checking the placement, I glued both complete assemblies to the rudder. More nailing. Good thing most of the people that will see my model, besides the ones in this forum, will probably have less than great eyesight. Mast, boom and gaff corners were planed down. Then I spun them with one hand as I ran sand paper up and down. Here are a few metal tools that came in handy. Reading that the chafing pad was usually made of copper, I thought mine could be too. To sum up my progress. And enjoyed every minute!
  16. Bryan Woods
    Good morning Major, I had the same questions as you did and handled it in the same manner. I’m starting to realize the kit designers just kinda tell you what’s next and about where it goes. That leaves us to research other sources or think it through to get the results. I have no knowledge of ships or sailing, so that makes the challenge for me even greater. The enjoyment I’m getting from learning to build these models is definitely worth the extra effort. MSW has had a lot to do with my understanding .
  17. Bryan Woods
    Thank you, Bob.
  18. Bryan Woods
    Hello builders, we all think of different ways to accomplish our needs. Here is a small example I’m going to share. I cut the shape of the molds on the build board in a small box to make a stand for the work inside the hull. I’ll be honest the steps after the planking have had me out of my comfort zone. I left off bending and cutting the floor board cleats. I was supposed to use 3/16”x 1/8” stock. I looked, picked ,soaked ,bent, cut and glued the 3/64”x1/8” stock. I wonder how that’s going to work for the floor boards? I can’t wait to see. I’m going to temporarily stick the floor boards on so I can see if I can recover without backing up. I had to shorten all the boards for them to rest on the half size cleats. I think I can live with the change. Now wondering what I’m going to use for the rub rails. I’m no different than everybody else wondering why both boards for the mast step have holes. I just glued them both and plugged the bottom with a cleat that helped me place it between the frames. Not my favorite tool but careful biting one tooth of the saw to slowly cut through the inwales. I used two of the sides of a plank sheet to make the rub rails. I put the factory cut edge down and the uneven edge at the top so I cut it down level. The hull is ready for some color. That’s all the progress for the last week, I did find a decade old Mindwest display cramped between other materials at my local country hardware store. They had no idea they even had it.
  19. Bryan Woods
    Well it was a struggle for me. Reading yours brought it back like it was yesterday! Lol. l’ll try to post tonight so you can see what could happen. 😳
  20. Bryan Woods
    Hey Don, I actually experienced most of your log this week !
  21. Bryan Woods
    Nice looking boat you got there.
  22. Bryan Woods
    Those are GREAT! In fact I have two real items that look just lik’em.
  23. Bryan Woods
    Thank you for the encouraging words!
  24. Bryan Woods
    Hello from middle Tennessee. Planks are fitting well bending them in the jig. I have had some issues identifying which side of the plank to bevel or rabbet. I used mini wooden clothes pins to clamp the garboard and the second plank. Then on the sheer plank there wasn’t enough room for the clothes pins. I drilled small holes in reg. size clothes pins and pulled a rubber band through using a small wire. I looped one end through the other to make an adjustable clamp. I noticed a misalignment when looking over the Pram after all the planks were installed. After placing the skeg and bilge keels the hull was removed and the dagger board case was assembled and installed. The first frame was #3. I used the tick strip given in the manual to place it. After marking for frame #2 placement I used a scrap stick to measure both sides to square it to #3. i decided to bend the inwales like I did the other planks and then cut them in the appropriate position of the boats curve. I fitted both stern and bow quarter knees. After placing the first pair of thwart frames, I thought it would help me best to fit the thwarts as I go. After one pair was installed, I placed the thwart on the pair and slid the other under so I could mark were I needed to glue it. I repeated this for the other frames. Not excited about the instructions saying to boil the small floor cleats. I again turned to my bending jig for an option. And that brings us to the present.
  25. Bryan Woods
    Well done! I’ve had some of the same issues crop up. There’s no telling how much time I spent looking at the planks deciding if it port or starboard, broke a few things and unglued a few. Hopefully learning.

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