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Bryan Woods

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Everything posted by Bryan Woods

  1. Bryan Woods
    I see the advantage for a novice like me, to keep the log current with the build. I took the advice of @mtaylor and watched the related videos from the like he posted. I immediately set up my bending station. I had a heat gun but never thought about using it until he mentioned it:-) After eyeballing the shape of the curve, I applied heat and headed for bed:-) Early this morning, I removed the plank. It did spring back a tiny bit, but still retained its intended shape. It fit nicely on top of the previous plank, without needing the bottom pushed in. Here are the other views after 5 planks on either side have been laid. Just a word out there, after one more plank, they will start transitioning from the side to the bottom then back to the side. I know the meeting edges will need to be beveled. Not sure yet what to expect from the rest of the board:-)
  2. Bryan Woods
    Thanks Jacques, The bow is the narrow end.
  3. Bryan Woods
    Thanks Mark, I’ve took a quick peek and it’s looks like they will be super helpful.
  4. Bryan Woods
    As I get started into this build, I’m finding it difficult to decide how I can display this log so it will be helpful for another. You basically are just bending and forming planks around the frame. The uniqueness of all the different logs maybe the way we clamp the wood. The experience I long for is learning how to soften the wood so it is more relaxed when fitted. Not in a bind when you are trying to glue it. Bear with me as I teach myself and gather helpful tips from others. I have been soaking the plank in hot water for different amounts of time, depending on my schedule on getting back out to the shipyard. First I spend minutes just lightly twisting and bending up and down the plank, not taking the wood near its bending limit. I’ve also used a heat iron. While the plank it wet, I run the iron over the plank while dropping water on it occasionally with a sponge. I can hear the water turn to steam, I’m hoping it’s helping loosen up the fibers. I took one plank and just kept trying different ways, wetting it bending it drying it over and over. It became so malleable you could bend it easily anyway and it would hold its shape. But was very weak. This taught me you can make the wood undesirable by breaking the inter fibers even when it’s still in one piece. The planks now are tapered on the stern end, with it facing the keel. After I have got the plank ready I cut the angle of the stern and clamp it. Then lay the plank on the previous, clamping as I move towards the bow. Bending around the frames so far has been simple. The challenge is the twist so each plank sets on top of the other with the sides flush. I tried using a sponge and dripping water on it while applying heat and twisting back and forth until it seems to set right. If careful you can dry the plank quicker running it lightly over it. I’m going to mostly post the shots of the build when the clamps are off. They seem to hid the part everyone wants to see. You have to watch the planks so they don’t drift away from the frame. The starboard side second frame from the bow on mine tends to do this. I done different things at times to combat this. and Here is the build with 3 planks on both sides. stern bow
  5. Bryan Woods
    Impressive Bob! Great to hear, like minds sharing knowledge and friendship.
  6. Bryan Woods
    That’s looks great Joe! But remember, it’s not a toy:-)
  7. Bryan Woods
    She looks great! I can even feel your excitement just looking at the pics😁
  8. Bryan Woods
    Tonight I took the first planks on both sides ,that I have shaped and dried. I glued the end to the stern with a small dab of thick CA. Then to the bow. I have just received the thin CA tips that I will use to apply along the seam of the planks. The CA wicks into the wood. After the hull is finished, the entire hull will be coated with CA so the finish will be uniform. Then next planks are tapered. I plan on soaking them tonight, and bending them in the morning. They will need to dry and pass QC before they go on.
  9. Bryan Woods
    The keel has been pre-bent and attached to the stern piece. It needed trimmed down around 1/4” to fit the strongback. I squared the bottom as best I could to give a large area to be glued down to the strongback. The bow piece only needed the angles to be right where it meets the keel and glued to the strongback. The newer kits have grooves in the frames to hold the first plank tight against the strongback. I soaked the planks in hot water for a few hours and applied heat. I hope it will take some of the tension out of the boards after they’re glued on. When I was satisfied with how the first planks set I trimmed the ends and glued them to the stern and bow only. I repeated the other side.
  10. Bryan Woods
    After gluing the two middle frames, I remembered all the different ways to try to keep the CA off the strongback. After a simple test of trying to glue wood to clear packing tape, I made the decision to use it, especially for the ease of installation. I found it easier to install this before gluing the frames. The strong back is ready and I have the confidence that I have accurately assembled the strongback, that will shape the wood into a beautiful hull of a boat that been hidden in my mind for over 6 decades:-) Next up is the keel, stern and bow pieces.
  11. Bryan Woods
    THE STRONGBACK After viewing over about 6 past build logs and kit suppled instructions. Not a whole was said about the strong back. Even I could feel the excitement of getting into that wonderful looking wood and build that boat. Scott Miller had the centerline and the locations of each frame marked on the plywood board. I decided to glue the frame support cleats on first. To keep the bottoms square I clamped two blocks together offset. Then lined the centerline up and clamped it square.
  12. Bryan Woods
    I was told stories my entire life of boats like this never imagining the possible details of the stage in which they were set. Now with the stories well planted in my mind, I get to become a shipwright of antiquity. With only 5 months of modeling experience, I will depend on my skills given to me by the Creator of all. I for sure want to mention Scott Miller for preparing the kit so one like me could start to build the boat.
  13. Bryan Woods
    Jacques, it all looks super! When you are constantly thinking of ways to better your model,you are also teaching habits and giving ideas to all of us:-) Keep ‘em coming!
  14. Bryan Woods
    I think it adds excitement to the build, that is after you know your plan will succeed. Sanding the hull, I believe is the most relaxing part of the build 🙂
  15. Bryan Woods
    Thank you druxey, you are right ! They needed to be tighter. That will just be the gauge for my next model that shows me that I have gained a bit more known how:-) Thank you Jacques, it was close. I didn’t try to carve the drains into the toe rail .
  16. Bryan Woods
    This afternoon I tied off the topping lift and tidied up the loose lines. That brought the build to completion. I would highly recommend this shipwright series for one like me, I am new to the hobby and have little experience with the wooden medium. It starts simple while you develop your skill. And this forum compliments, gives advice, and boosts your confidence. Thanks to everyone that was a part of my build. I hope along with all the other logs, someone will find something that will help:-)
  17. Bryan Woods
    After nervously glueing the mast in place, I started with the fore stay. I liked the look of the black rope on the stays. I ordered what I thought was .06mm, which was the smallest I saw at the time. I got .06” which was massive:-) I had some black upholstery thread that I ran through all kinds of treatments to create my own:-) Really no need for details on that, I wouldn’t recommend it. Because it was the first time I clipped both ends, before making it final. I then tied a clove hitch with the thread, slid the knot where I wanted it. Dropped a tiny dot of thin CA on it and pulled it taunt. One thing I didn’t think of and should have was making the chainplates. I didn’t check how well it married with the given turnbuckle. I was lucky one did and one had to have help from my messy friend CA. Don’t look at the messy hook. Look at the nail I made from smashing a copper wire and bending it over:-) I couldn’t get the shoulder under the head of the tack in kit to lay down. They got put with my .06” rope. After the stays I threaded the blocks on travleler Here is a better shot of the looped beading needle that’s been so helpful. Next I threaded the three corners on the jib sail. Another beginner error with the downhaul line false eye. I used the thin CA. It wicks and hardens the rope. There wasn’t enough room for the block to stand up. Here’s what I’m using and the applicator. I pull the lines snug and either taped or weighted them down. I need to check them over, glue and trim. The topping lift, and a punch list is in the future.
  18. Bryan Woods
    Thanks Don, you should know I have little experience and sometimes stray away on my own. 😁
  19. Bryan Woods
    Sails are ready to go up! But first I had some small things to do, like paint touch ups and hardware. Trail boards when up late, according to manual. I wasn’t sure what color or what writing I was going to use. I made the chainplates from some thinner brass I had on hand. 1/32” thick brass came with the kit, but it was difficult to drill and work with. If I added up the time spent, these handles I made for the live wells and cabin door, used up a lot. I started last month trying different styles and different materials. I had to just choose or I was going to keep makin’em. Early tomorrow morning I plan on setting the mast.
  20. Bryan Woods
    I continued on lashing the mast hoops. I used some black thread cinch them up and to add some contrast. The boom was done just like the Pram. The gaff was no different. The reef points. 3/4” threads to be glued on main sail. To make them friendlier I did a little assembly line. First I used any scrap threads that were laying around. Lightly pulled them through diluted white glue. Then made a loop with the end under. Poked the tweezers though the loop to grab the end, and pull it through to make the knot. cut off both ends onto equal 3/4” I dipped them in thin CA which wicked right up. It changed the texture and the color. Being ridged it will be easier for me to put them on. Here are the beads I got for attaching the boom and gaff to the mast. Not quite the scale. I had to see how it was gonna fit.
  21. Bryan Woods
    For some reason, when I switch from one part of the build I hesitate to get started. Now starting the mast and sails. I tried to follow the diagrams for shaping the mast but I just couldn’t see me drawing a line on the side of the mast with any kind of accuracy. So I just planed away. Here is the boom getting started. Then I glue the stop cleats on by setting in a thrown together jig. Then carved off the excess. The mast hoops came together easily following the directions given. I ran my tweezers through the rings to spread them out before cutting them. When I saw how evenly the ends met, I saw no need in soldering them. I visioned a big chunk of solder on my pretty copper ring.😁 I just dabbled a little CA on them. The blocks I just shaped and wired up a little at a time when I felt like it. Then dipped them in a dark mahogany stain. The mast, boom, gaff and bowsprit all got golden oak stain. Next was for he sail. On the Pram the sail was shiny on the mat down side. I cut a box going to suspend the cloth so the solution didn’t pool up. The problem with this was I was trying to do the whole cloth at one time. The diluted glue was too heavy and the cloth was going to be bowl shaped. I quickly executed plan B which was to sling it on the clean plexiglass I had ready just in case. The next day I placed the pattern I had traced on parchment paper and pencil in the outline. One one side of the cloth I marked and cut the reinforcement strips. Then glued them on. Cut them out, flipped them over and glued reinforcement corners and the false seams. I made a template for the holes that made it easy. I started with lashing on the mast hoops. I realized I was going to need something but wasn’t for sure what. After searching I found a looped end beading needle? It could be a model ship sail rigging tool. It maybe cheating but until I learn how to use tweezers as fingers they will be found in my shipyard.😁
  22. Bryan Woods
    I’m loving the parts of this build that you get to design and build from scratch. It’s really going to add to the one that’s on the receiving end of your gift. Everything looks great !
  23. Bryan Woods
    Little things add variety and enjoyment to your already fun build:-)
  24. Bryan Woods
    After painting the coaming and cabin side, I fitted and glued the starboard side first. Then the port side. The cabin side needed trimmed where it met the coaming. I also glued this one side at a time. the cabin bulkhead went next. Earlier I was testing different textures I could use for added detail and glued some scrap sail cloth on the cabin roof. Spray painted it. I glue a piece of wood on the rail at a right angle and rounded the corners. the a piece of stained veneer Cleats were placed inside against the rails to hold the door up at my desired height. I’ve played with making some kind of handles for the doors and the live wells but none have passed the scale and QT testing I’ve placed upon them.
  25. Bryan Woods
    Last night I finished up taping around the rails and waterline. The crepe paper tape makes the turns easy. The gathers don’t lay as flat as I think they need to. I put two coats on the rails first, so I could hold it and turn it , making it less likely to miss a spot. After they had dried to touch, I finished the bottom of the hull and anxiously waited for it to dry. There was seepage in some places, but not as bad as I had expected. However, there was more seepage in other places. The Admiral says she can freehand the spots that bled over. I know I’m not taking the challenge. I’ll be working on the coaming, cabin and details as she works that into her busy schedule.

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