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Bryan Woods

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Everything posted by Bryan Woods

  1. Bryan Woods
    After nervously glueing the mast in place, I started with the fore stay. I liked the look of the black rope on the stays. I ordered what I thought was .06mm, which was the smallest I saw at the time. I got .06” which was massive:-) I had some black upholstery thread that I ran through all kinds of treatments to create my own:-) Really no need for details on that, I wouldn’t recommend it. Because it was the first time I clipped both ends, before making it final. I then tied a clove hitch with the thread, slid the knot where I wanted it. Dropped a tiny dot of thin CA on it and pulled it taunt. One thing I didn’t think of and should have was making the chainplates. I didn’t check how well it married with the given turnbuckle. I was lucky one did and one had to have help from my messy friend CA. Don’t look at the messy hook. Look at the nail I made from smashing a copper wire and bending it over:-) I couldn’t get the shoulder under the head of the tack in kit to lay down. They got put with my .06” rope. After the stays I threaded the blocks on travleler Here is a better shot of the looped beading needle that’s been so helpful. Next I threaded the three corners on the jib sail. Another beginner error with the downhaul line false eye. I used the thin CA. It wicks and hardens the rope. There wasn’t enough room for the block to stand up. Here’s what I’m using and the applicator. I pull the lines snug and either taped or weighted them down. I need to check them over, glue and trim. The topping lift, and a punch list is in the future.
  2. Bryan Woods
    Thanks Don, you should know I have little experience and sometimes stray away on my own. 😁
  3. Bryan Woods
    Sails are ready to go up! But first I had some small things to do, like paint touch ups and hardware. Trail boards when up late, according to manual. I wasn’t sure what color or what writing I was going to use. I made the chainplates from some thinner brass I had on hand. 1/32” thick brass came with the kit, but it was difficult to drill and work with. If I added up the time spent, these handles I made for the live wells and cabin door, used up a lot. I started last month trying different styles and different materials. I had to just choose or I was going to keep makin’em. Early tomorrow morning I plan on setting the mast.
  4. Bryan Woods
    I continued on lashing the mast hoops. I used some black thread cinch them up and to add some contrast. The boom was done just like the Pram. The gaff was no different. The reef points. 3/4” threads to be glued on main sail. To make them friendlier I did a little assembly line. First I used any scrap threads that were laying around. Lightly pulled them through diluted white glue. Then made a loop with the end under. Poked the tweezers though the loop to grab the end, and pull it through to make the knot. cut off both ends onto equal 3/4” I dipped them in thin CA which wicked right up. It changed the texture and the color. Being ridged it will be easier for me to put them on. Here are the beads I got for attaching the boom and gaff to the mast. Not quite the scale. I had to see how it was gonna fit.
  5. Bryan Woods
    For some reason, when I switch from one part of the build I hesitate to get started. Now starting the mast and sails. I tried to follow the diagrams for shaping the mast but I just couldn’t see me drawing a line on the side of the mast with any kind of accuracy. So I just planed away. Here is the boom getting started. Then I glue the stop cleats on by setting in a thrown together jig. Then carved off the excess. The mast hoops came together easily following the directions given. I ran my tweezers through the rings to spread them out before cutting them. When I saw how evenly the ends met, I saw no need in soldering them. I visioned a big chunk of solder on my pretty copper ring.😁 I just dabbled a little CA on them. The blocks I just shaped and wired up a little at a time when I felt like it. Then dipped them in a dark mahogany stain. The mast, boom, gaff and bowsprit all got golden oak stain. Next was for he sail. On the Pram the sail was shiny on the mat down side. I cut a box going to suspend the cloth so the solution didn’t pool up. The problem with this was I was trying to do the whole cloth at one time. The diluted glue was too heavy and the cloth was going to be bowl shaped. I quickly executed plan B which was to sling it on the clean plexiglass I had ready just in case. The next day I placed the pattern I had traced on parchment paper and pencil in the outline. One one side of the cloth I marked and cut the reinforcement strips. Then glued them on. Cut them out, flipped them over and glued reinforcement corners and the false seams. I made a template for the holes that made it easy. I started with lashing on the mast hoops. I realized I was going to need something but wasn’t for sure what. After searching I found a looped end beading needle? It could be a model ship sail rigging tool. It maybe cheating but until I learn how to use tweezers as fingers they will be found in my shipyard.😁
  6. Bryan Woods
    I’m loving the parts of this build that you get to design and build from scratch. It’s really going to add to the one that’s on the receiving end of your gift. Everything looks great !
  7. Bryan Woods
    Little things add variety and enjoyment to your already fun build:-)
  8. Bryan Woods
    After painting the coaming and cabin side, I fitted and glued the starboard side first. Then the port side. The cabin side needed trimmed where it met the coaming. I also glued this one side at a time. the cabin bulkhead went next. Earlier I was testing different textures I could use for added detail and glued some scrap sail cloth on the cabin roof. Spray painted it. I glue a piece of wood on the rail at a right angle and rounded the corners. the a piece of stained veneer Cleats were placed inside against the rails to hold the door up at my desired height. I’ve played with making some kind of handles for the doors and the live wells but none have passed the scale and QT testing I’ve placed upon them.
  9. Bryan Woods
    Last night I finished up taping around the rails and waterline. The crepe paper tape makes the turns easy. The gathers don’t lay as flat as I think they need to. I put two coats on the rails first, so I could hold it and turn it , making it less likely to miss a spot. After they had dried to touch, I finished the bottom of the hull and anxiously waited for it to dry. There was seepage in some places, but not as bad as I had expected. However, there was more seepage in other places. The Admiral says she can freehand the spots that bled over. I know I’m not taking the challenge. I’ll be working on the coaming, cabin and details as she works that into her busy schedule.
  10. Bryan Woods
    I got the smack primed and roughly marked the waterline. So it’s ready for the first coat of paint. I’m going to paint above the waterline first because the toe and rub rails will be the same color as the waterline. I’ve been procrastinating on painting because I’m afraid of the mess I could make trying to paints these rails. So I practiced taping between the rail with different type and size tape. Here’s a few tries. I’m probably going to go with the bottom one that’s crepe paper. Plus I set the rub rail 1/4” down from the top of the toe rail and I used 1/8” tape to make them the same size. I thought I’d just tape for a while instead of the painting. Then I took this shot and said “ you know I need to look into the coaming and cabin sides. I cut them out, sanded and soaked them. I applied heat and was able to bend them with little problems. the cock pit seat back, that was installed earlier, was all in the way of the coaming. It got removed and because I was so pumped after that last bend, I thought I could bend anything. The seat back was stained and polyurethaned. So I water only kept it from catching fire. I think. One bend no burns! Coaming and cabin walls were primed and ready to paint. Here are a few other future details I use to procrastinate. Everything is just set on temporarily, for me to get a look at it. The next entry on my log has got to involve a painted hull.
  11. Bryan Woods
    The next part I worked on was the rub rails. For a guide I used 1/4” fine-line tape. I glued all but the aft, where it slightly curves up to the toe rail. I damped the end and used a little heat to bend it around the top of the transom. then carved off and sanded the excess. After finishing the starboard side I sadly started thinking about taping and painting. Painting is by far my least skilled ability, of all I’ve used in my boat modeling experience. There is something that draws me to pick up and rub this natural, smooth wooden hull. I’ve even given the thought to stopping this build so I can keep it just to handle. Lol. So here are a few pics before the primer and paint goes on.
  12. Bryan Woods
    Wow Jacques, that bailer looks fantastic! And your Dory is right there with it!
  13. Bryan Woods
    Good look Don. It’s great to see different techniques applied.
  14. Bryan Woods
    Hey Jacques, I picked up a small tri-sided architect scale ruler. My biggest problem is being able to see the marks on it lol.
  15. Bryan Woods
    Jacques, your Dory is looking great! I just picked up a small quantity of jewelry cord that was a bit stiffer and looked smaller than what they sent. Then enlarged the hole a touch.
  16. Bryan Woods
    I love seeing all the unique ways everyone uses to assist their builds. Painting is definitely my weak point and just seeing your test has made me excited to see your finished product!
  17. Bryan Woods
    Thanks! I gotta admit I did make it straighter and I’m getting a little better at the camera angles which can make it look even straighter. 😃
  18. Bryan Woods
    Just a quick update on that beakhead. I got up early this morning to take a shot at it. I sanded a wedge and glued it to the port side of the beakhead. Cut off the excess and sanded off the starboard side. It’s not perfect but better to my eye.
  19. Bryan Woods
    I finally found the time to catch up my build log. Here are a few shots I had marked, but I can’t remember what I was going to say about them. The first of many challenges that arose in this segment started here, I think. It was twisted making the starboard deck 1/16” too high. I will take that on a little later. Now to try to create a challenge. I plan on planking the deck like I did the cock pit. I stopped working on the hull hoping the sheer strake was going to accommodate the extra layer of planking. I got it! I’ll try the new shovel head attachment for my soldering iron. I could go over the mistakes, I mean challenges, that I had with the deck planking, but since it’s not in the kit and I didn’t know what I was doing , I’m going to skip those dozen. Now to deal with the starboard side deck. Then I got to learn how to use this one. It worked pretty good on the thin toe rail. I had a visitor get trapped in the shipyard. Bow fairleads next. I have decided to wait to do the top of deck work and focus on getting the hull taped off and painted. I look at it like. The longer it takes me, the bigger bang I got for my buck that bought the kit. I got my plan. But if any wants to reveal their wisdom, I’m all ears.
  20. Bryan Woods
    I wish I had the time to mention all my woops that required extra attention. But that will have to wait till I’m retired.
  21. Bryan Woods
    I finally found some time for the smack. I fitted then glued the deck halves on. Wow! What a space there is from the bottom of frame 9 to the spine. Then I started finding other spots that could use a little. Where frame 4 meets the spine on both sides. As I was working on the starboard side I heard a crack from frame 1. I think it was just the lower part popping a glue joint not the wood. But I cleated it and let it set up before I proceeded. I left a larger gap for the rabbet than I should have. They give a gage and I put it in but for some reason I slid it down. Oh yeah I remember, I didn’t have enough confidence in myself that I could get the garboard in it. I always could find places that I thought needed attention. First plank fitted and glued. I soaked the planks in warm water for several minutes then clipped them to hull to shape. I glued one side while training the planks on the other. I kept a paper clip on the side I was last working on so I didn’t rip off the side that I glued. Frame 8 may have needed took down a little more. I cut a clear plastic strip and tried holding over the frames to detect issues like this. But my “almost no experience “ didn’t know what to look for. While the planks were still moist but clipped I would trim the end of the plank that over hung. I noticed while wet the wood cut so easy. I just gave it a super light touch and a surgical approach. I can’t wait to get started back!
  22. Bryan Woods
    Your build looks amazing! It will be a while before I start mine but I will definitely heed the advice on the cling wrapping the Strong back. Can you tell me about how much CA you used coating the inside of the hull?
  23. Bryan Woods
    This boat is what sparked my interest in boat modeling. It’s on my shelf just waiting for me to get skilled enough to do as good as job as you have. I’m sure I’ll be thanking you in the future for the help I’ll receive from your labor. 😁
  24. Bryan Woods
    Thank you for your compliments! About the planking idea Joe, it was from a log I saw here on a Midway kit. Now for an example not to do. Late last night after I finished my log, I went back out to the shop and thought I’d finish the last frames.The hull was clamped by the keel in my vice. I fitted first then glued #9,#2,#1 and then #10 with the transom attached. All went smoothly, I thought. This morning, ready to start beveling the stern, I noticed when fitting the deck, the deck plank was short. For some reason I thought the problem was on top of the spine and started sanding down the spine, top of frame #10 , I got some of #9 I think the port side of #7 and #8. Luckily I wasn’t using power equipment! Finally, I thought to take the hull out of the vice and really look at it. That was the bad part. I had worked at a time I shouldn’t have. I only kept a top view, instead of taking it out and turning it all around. This is last nights view. Now let’s zoom in. Some of these are self explanatory. I knew I had no other choice than to remove and redo. It’s sad to say but I’m a pretty good gluer. Correction, I may be a good “sticker togetherer” but not a gluer. The problem was too much glue.It packed in between the frame and spine and had no where to go. Since I had fit tested right before it was glued, it fit with no resistance.I pressed until it stopped. Looking down, I didn’t see the problem. Now for the damage, I did on the top. I needed some filler to replace what I sanded off. So a day spent correcting a mistake, but I need to add, the challenge was great and I believe I enjoyed the day as much as the next day that I get back to it.
  25. Bryan Woods
    I noticed frame #3 may block the pin hole for the centerboard so I pulled off the centerboard to get it painted. That got me asking what all needs to be done in the cockpit finish wise, before the build continues. Checking other finished models, I decided to paint aft side of frame #6 and both sides of #7 above the floor. Another feature I wanted to add was planking to the cockpit floor and the deck. I purchased 1:87 scale 2”x10” planks in different lengths from 8’ to 14’ long. They are around 1”x4” from 2’ to 4’ on the 1:24 scale. They are hardwood and I think it will be a nice add. Since I was going to plank the cockpit I went ahead and fitted the seat supports so I could plank around them. While frames #7 & #8 were drying I started getting the transom glued to the #10 frame. These are not the easiest parts to glue together. I got them together, but a little off center. Next was the cockpit floor. Frames #1 & #2 are next. Last week when I test fitted the frames #1’s slot in the spine it was too deep. I cut a small 1/8” cube to build it up, then sanded it down so frame #1 was level with the top of the spine.

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