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Bryan Woods

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  1. Bryan Woods
    I got the smack primed and roughly marked the waterline. So it’s ready for the first coat of paint. I’m going to paint above the waterline first because the toe and rub rails will be the same color as the waterline. I’ve been procrastinating on painting because I’m afraid of the mess I could make trying to paints these rails. So I practiced taping between the rail with different type and size tape. Here’s a few tries. I’m probably going to go with the bottom one that’s crepe paper. Plus I set the rub rail 1/4” down from the top of the toe rail and I used 1/8” tape to make them the same size. I thought I’d just tape for a while instead of the painting. Then I took this shot and said “ you know I need to look into the coaming and cabin sides. I cut them out, sanded and soaked them. I applied heat and was able to bend them with little problems. the cock pit seat back, that was installed earlier, was all in the way of the coaming. It got removed and because I was so pumped after that last bend, I thought I could bend anything. The seat back was stained and polyurethaned. So I water only kept it from catching fire. I think. One bend no burns! Coaming and cabin walls were primed and ready to paint. Here are a few other future details I use to procrastinate. Everything is just set on temporarily, for me to get a look at it. The next entry on my log has got to involve a painted hull.
  2. Bryan Woods
    The next part I worked on was the rub rails. For a guide I used 1/4” fine-line tape. I glued all but the aft, where it slightly curves up to the toe rail. I damped the end and used a little heat to bend it around the top of the transom. then carved off and sanded the excess. After finishing the starboard side I sadly started thinking about taping and painting. Painting is by far my least skilled ability, of all I’ve used in my boat modeling experience. There is something that draws me to pick up and rub this natural, smooth wooden hull. I’ve even given the thought to stopping this build so I can keep it just to handle. Lol. So here are a few pics before the primer and paint goes on.
  3. Bryan Woods
    Wow Jacques, that bailer looks fantastic! And your Dory is right there with it!
  4. Bryan Woods
    Good look Don. It’s great to see different techniques applied.
  5. Bryan Woods
    Hey Jacques, I picked up a small tri-sided architect scale ruler. My biggest problem is being able to see the marks on it lol.
  6. Bryan Woods
    Jacques, your Dory is looking great! I just picked up a small quantity of jewelry cord that was a bit stiffer and looked smaller than what they sent. Then enlarged the hole a touch.
  7. Bryan Woods
    I love seeing all the unique ways everyone uses to assist their builds. Painting is definitely my weak point and just seeing your test has made me excited to see your finished product!
  8. Bryan Woods
    Thanks! I gotta admit I did make it straighter and I’m getting a little better at the camera angles which can make it look even straighter. 😃
  9. Bryan Woods
    Just a quick update on that beakhead. I got up early this morning to take a shot at it. I sanded a wedge and glued it to the port side of the beakhead. Cut off the excess and sanded off the starboard side. It’s not perfect but better to my eye.
  10. Bryan Woods
    I finally found the time to catch up my build log. Here are a few shots I had marked, but I can’t remember what I was going to say about them. The first of many challenges that arose in this segment started here, I think. It was twisted making the starboard deck 1/16” too high. I will take that on a little later. Now to try to create a challenge. I plan on planking the deck like I did the cock pit. I stopped working on the hull hoping the sheer strake was going to accommodate the extra layer of planking. I got it! I’ll try the new shovel head attachment for my soldering iron. I could go over the mistakes, I mean challenges, that I had with the deck planking, but since it’s not in the kit and I didn’t know what I was doing , I’m going to skip those dozen. Now to deal with the starboard side deck. Then I got to learn how to use this one. It worked pretty good on the thin toe rail. I had a visitor get trapped in the shipyard. Bow fairleads next. I have decided to wait to do the top of deck work and focus on getting the hull taped off and painted. I look at it like. The longer it takes me, the bigger bang I got for my buck that bought the kit. I got my plan. But if any wants to reveal their wisdom, I’m all ears.
  11. Bryan Woods
    I wish I had the time to mention all my woops that required extra attention. But that will have to wait till I’m retired.
  12. Bryan Woods
    I finally found some time for the smack. I fitted then glued the deck halves on. Wow! What a space there is from the bottom of frame 9 to the spine. Then I started finding other spots that could use a little. Where frame 4 meets the spine on both sides. As I was working on the starboard side I heard a crack from frame 1. I think it was just the lower part popping a glue joint not the wood. But I cleated it and let it set up before I proceeded. I left a larger gap for the rabbet than I should have. They give a gage and I put it in but for some reason I slid it down. Oh yeah I remember, I didn’t have enough confidence in myself that I could get the garboard in it. I always could find places that I thought needed attention. First plank fitted and glued. I soaked the planks in warm water for several minutes then clipped them to hull to shape. I glued one side while training the planks on the other. I kept a paper clip on the side I was last working on so I didn’t rip off the side that I glued. Frame 8 may have needed took down a little more. I cut a clear plastic strip and tried holding over the frames to detect issues like this. But my “almost no experience “ didn’t know what to look for. While the planks were still moist but clipped I would trim the end of the plank that over hung. I noticed while wet the wood cut so easy. I just gave it a super light touch and a surgical approach. I can’t wait to get started back!
  13. Bryan Woods
    Your build looks amazing! It will be a while before I start mine but I will definitely heed the advice on the cling wrapping the Strong back. Can you tell me about how much CA you used coating the inside of the hull?
  14. Bryan Woods
    This boat is what sparked my interest in boat modeling. It’s on my shelf just waiting for me to get skilled enough to do as good as job as you have. I’m sure I’ll be thanking you in the future for the help I’ll receive from your labor. 😁
  15. Bryan Woods
    Thank you for your compliments! About the planking idea Joe, it was from a log I saw here on a Midway kit. Now for an example not to do. Late last night after I finished my log, I went back out to the shop and thought I’d finish the last frames.The hull was clamped by the keel in my vice. I fitted first then glued #9,#2,#1 and then #10 with the transom attached. All went smoothly, I thought. This morning, ready to start beveling the stern, I noticed when fitting the deck, the deck plank was short. For some reason I thought the problem was on top of the spine and started sanding down the spine, top of frame #10 , I got some of #9 I think the port side of #7 and #8. Luckily I wasn’t using power equipment! Finally, I thought to take the hull out of the vice and really look at it. That was the bad part. I had worked at a time I shouldn’t have. I only kept a top view, instead of taking it out and turning it all around. This is last nights view. Now let’s zoom in. Some of these are self explanatory. I knew I had no other choice than to remove and redo. It’s sad to say but I’m a pretty good gluer. Correction, I may be a good “sticker togetherer” but not a gluer. The problem was too much glue.It packed in between the frame and spine and had no where to go. Since I had fit tested right before it was glued, it fit with no resistance.I pressed until it stopped. Looking down, I didn’t see the problem. Now for the damage, I did on the top. I needed some filler to replace what I sanded off. So a day spent correcting a mistake, but I need to add, the challenge was great and I believe I enjoyed the day as much as the next day that I get back to it.
  16. Bryan Woods
    I noticed frame #3 may block the pin hole for the centerboard so I pulled off the centerboard to get it painted. That got me asking what all needs to be done in the cockpit finish wise, before the build continues. Checking other finished models, I decided to paint aft side of frame #6 and both sides of #7 above the floor. Another feature I wanted to add was planking to the cockpit floor and the deck. I purchased 1:87 scale 2”x10” planks in different lengths from 8’ to 14’ long. They are around 1”x4” from 2’ to 4’ on the 1:24 scale. They are hardwood and I think it will be a nice add. Since I was going to plank the cockpit I went ahead and fitted the seat supports so I could plank around them. While frames #7 & #8 were drying I started getting the transom glued to the #10 frame. These are not the easiest parts to glue together. I got them together, but a little off center. Next was the cockpit floor. Frames #1 & #2 are next. Last week when I test fitted the frames #1’s slot in the spine it was too deep. I cut a small 1/8” cube to build it up, then sanded it down so frame #1 was level with the top of the spine.
  17. Bryan Woods
    I’m starting my third model after reading through the manual and checking out other build logs.
  18. Bryan Woods
    I installed magnets in base to help steady it. I really didn’t want to glue it on. I had trouble trying to tie half hitches with the thread being conscious of the small amount given. I use clove hitches often. They made it a lot easier to be conservative with the thread. The back stays went smoother. After gluing the lines at the stay straps near the mast head, I tied the clove at the bottom and slid it up into position, pulled tight and glued. Hoisted the sail And completed my second model boat! Before Before I start Muscongus Bay lobster smack I’m going to build the Catspaw Dinghy Lines Model by the wooden boat store.
  19. Bryan Woods
    Thank you Claire for asking a great question! Thank you Bob for the super helpful answer!
  20. Bryan Woods
    I had some time this week to venture into another “new to me” part of the build.
  21. Bryan Woods
    Modeller. You have done amazing work! I’m just finishing the Pram. But seeing yours makes me want to build it again. Thank you for sharing your skills and talents. I’m excited to learn more on the smack.
  22. Bryan Woods
    I just took a quick run though and it looks like it’s exactly what I needed! I’m just starting the rigging.
  23. Bryan Woods
    Thank you Ryland, you could say I’m an improviser.
  24. Bryan Woods
    Great Job Major! That stern looks outstanding.
  25. Bryan Woods
    Back with a little more progress. There was about a week of painting. Here’s the outside of the hull with her coats. The smallest width of painters tape I could find locally was 3/4” and was hard to make the curves clean. This made taping for the inside easier. Tiller was next. I settled with a slightly bent rod instead mushroom headed one. The rudder. This is where I strayed away from the instructions. I had my doubts about my ability to assemble tiny hinged brackets square enough to connect with receivers on the stern transom. So, here’s my way. First build both gudgeons. I slid the 1/16” rod inside tube and rolled it under my knife not using a lot of pressure. As the tube cut into, I slid it down the rod. The first one I let come off. It was a task getting the rough cut tube 3/16” long back on. So I tried to keep them together as best as possible. Instead of nails I cut tiny specks of copper wire and just glued them over the holes. After checking and double checking the placement, I glued both complete assemblies to the rudder. More nailing. Good thing most of the people that will see my model, besides the ones in this forum, will probably have less than great eyesight. Mast, boom and gaff corners were planed down. Then I spun them with one hand as I ran sand paper up and down. Here are a few metal tools that came in handy. Reading that the chafing pad was usually made of copper, I thought mine could be too. To sum up my progress. And enjoyed every minute!

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