East Ender
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Everything posted by East Ender
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Thank you Mark.
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Thank you for that, but it looks like I need to have reached 100 posts before I can utilize that option. Tim
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My apologies Dave, I never answered your question. Yes, I would like to change it to Tim Lent
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Welcome aboard Javelin!
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Thanks for the help mtaylor! I tried and read the link and all of my photos are showing up in my build log, but still not on the very first page. If you look up Grand Banks Dory by East Ender - Bluejacket Shipcrafters 1-1, in 1851-1900, only my first two photos are visible. Other member build show a slew pf photos. I must have messed up somewhere after my first post. Thanks Tim -
Not much today. I sanded the frame and installed the first two garboard planks, and sanded again. Soaked the gripe in ammonia and water and formed it with the heavy shaft of my soldering iron. Will let this dry overnight. I may install one more plank before removing it from the build board. Tim
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- Grand Banks Dory
- Bluejacket Shipcrafters
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I'm not sure if this is the correct page to discuss this for help, but I've noticed that when I click on my build of the Grand Banks Dory by Bluejacket in the build log page for ships between 1851 and 1900, only my first two photos populated on my main page, the rest have not. I did read the "Getting Started" page but I must be missing something. All other members seem to have all their photos displayed before clicking onto their log. Can anyone help? Thank you, Tim
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Today after all the chamfering of the stem, transom, matching the angle of the the frames along the bottom for a nice clean angle and flat surface for the side strakes, I flipped my building board over and transferred all of the important jig points off the print by way of pinpoint and then starting with the stem and working back one frame at at a time, glued the assembly to the board. Much more robust than pinning and no worries of movement. (Bluejackets video of the Dory also has the frames glued to the work surface). Tomorrow will fit the gunwale strips after soaking in water and ammonia. not sure how long to soak them. Then will trim and clamp them in place until dry before gluing.
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I figured it's time to stop and let the glue cure for a day or two before proceeding with the next steps . Perhaps some work on the oars or sail over the next few days. It's time to learn how to sew. Looking at the photo, it liked like frame F5 was off, so I ran back out there and checked and thankfully it's just a camera anomaly, All legs, stem and transom line up on the assembly plan jig.
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Yes, the pizza cutter concept worked nicely. Position and clamp down your straightedge and be sure to use steady but light pressure with a slight angle towards your straightedge. Nobody will ever see this on the completed model, it's just the satisfaction of knowing it's been done.
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This Bluejacket Grand Banks Dory is my introduction to building wooden ship models. I spent a nice weekend building the sub assemblies. The most difficult task was finding a perfectly flat building board and organizing a shop area. I am using strictly Titebond 2 but have some Zap thin and slow Zap if needed. I'm taking my time, studying the plans and enjoying this project tremendously. I bought a Panavise for this project and it has proven to be invaluable. Today I will spent some time prepping the parts further for installation in the jig. I'm going to try a pizza cutter to lightly score some board lines on the bottom, even though they will never be noticed. I did find that the mast step provided in the laser cut parts was larger than what is shown on the print with a slightly different 1/8 hole location. The photo shows the laser cut part. Also notice is indicates K2 on the drawing and H5 on the part slab. So I made another from from scrap basswood to exactly match the print and glued it to the bottom. I hope that was not a mistake on my part . I always believed blueprints rule unless a part change has be noted on the print. Cheers, Tim
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Beautiful build! I'm just starting my first model as well, the same Bluejacket Grand Banks Dory, so it's great to see what others have done during their builds. I like what you did by scribing the bottom. The parchment paper to transfer the jig pattern was also a great tip and I will try that as well. Yesterday I experimented on scrap wood with a pizza cutter along a straightedge to create the scribe lines. I think it will work, as the pressure dictates the width.
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What a wealth of information! Thanks to all of you for the very detailed explanations. I will follow all this advice and learn from it. Perhaps it would be best and safer for me at this stage to stick to the basics, order the correct colors of tried and true paints for my first model, but.... at the same time delve into some experimental testing on the side with my artists paints, both traditional and water soluble oils on scrap wood for my next build. So thanks again, I'm now much more comfortable going forward with this build.
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Thank you for the information Roger and Jaager! Another question, the 1:1 shellac, the white shellac I read about earlier in this topic, is it diluted with a quality low water content alcohol? Are there particular brands you would recommend for the shellac and alcohol?
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Good luck Hsae and good morning, I'm new to the forum and I'm about to start my first model, Bluejackets Grand Banks Dory. I have the same dilemma as Hermann, transitioning from plastic models to wood and a paint question. I know I can purchase and probably will order the correct paints from Bluejacket, Model Shipways and the like, but my question is this: Has anyone ever used Windsor- Newton Artesian water soluble oils on wood? I'm also am artist; oil painting on canvas and recently tried these water soluble oils as they do mix with water. I've always used regular oils in the past. I may try a test piece to check the result. I have many colors, Burnt Sienna, Yellow Ochre, grays ect. Would be great if I could use them.
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Hello Ryland and thanks for the welcome and information. I live only a few minutes from the museum in Deltaville. It's a beautiful museum. As you know, there was a devastating fire there some years back, and I helped fight that fire. I remember some of the Deltaville firefighters saving various ship models and furniture from burning. I was running a Hartfield VFD Tanker shuttle during the fire . It was a very sad day for the community. As for the Mariners Museum in Newport News, I will be visiting it shortly. I live on the Piankatank River in Hartfield where some Civil War history occurred, involving the Union Blockade action which involved the USS Tulip. The story can be read in the book The Chesapeake Bay in the Civil War.
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Thanks to all for the warm greetings. Alan, I grew up in Shoreham, fished , swam and scuba dived all along the North Shore. I'm very familiar with Goldsmith's inlet. Worked at Grumman in Calverton for 20 years, F-14. Miss the Sound, Peconic Bay and the Ocean.
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Hello to all from coastal Virginia, near Deltaville on the Chesapeake Bay, where Chesapeake Bay Deadrise crabbing boats are built and used. Originally and growing up along Long Island Sound on the far east end of Long Island,N.Y. , I look forward to reading about the fine aspects of model ship building. My first kit, Bluejackets Grand Banks Dory is on my bench. I've been watching videos by Tom Lauria, who has given me much inspiration,and have learned much from him with his YouTube videos. I am transitioning from building balsa r/c flying, so I have some basics with working with wood, but not nearly enough experience with ships. I need to get building as my wife is getting tired of me saying I need to buy another tool for this project. Glad to be here, East Ender
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