reilly

Fashion pieces cut, shaped and glued in place.  Tops will be trimmed later.
Maury

The counter took some edge bending as well as the gentle bend of the stern and came out well.  Edge bending is still something I'm getting comfortable with...the inside of a bend seems to bend a bit sharply in the center rather than a gentle sweeping curve.  I even place two clamps in the middle of the plank to widen the curve.  Trial and error.  The transom edge bending is less severe and went on well.  I did the lower strake pieces first, then moved to the solid plank above the gun ports and then filled-in the rest.  Next up are the fashion pieces covering the edges of the counter and transom.  Question for Chuck...The planking over the square tuck is vertical on the plans and in your build log, but seems horizontal in the pictures with the instructions.  I seem to recall more discussion about the vertical planking and the surround on the build log at the time, but that does not appear now. 
Maury

I finished the planking above the wales on the starboard side.  They still need the tops faired and a bunch more sanding.
Maury
 

OK here you go...

On to the lower deck cabin additions…. not included in the instructions.
 
As a reminder for people that may not be familiar with this particular version of the Bounty; the model leaves the starboard side of the ship open for viewing.
 
So, this is when I did some simple scratch work to design and install some additional cabins in the lower stern and bow areas.  My ideas came from some of The Anatomy drawings (see the Bounty diagram images below) as well as pictures of other AL Bounty builds.  It took some time but I think it was well worth the effort. 
 
As I was designing the additions I wondered why AL didn’t expand on the interior details of the model as there is quite a bit of open space for making creative additions.  Perhaps they left the opportunity open for the builder to take their own poetic license 
 
Also, one other added benefit to adding cabins on both lower decks is you can fill the space behind them with filler blocks between the frames to aid in the very difficult hull planking process (particularly in the Bow and Stern areas).  The filler blocks will be hidden by the cabin walls    
 
Steps I took to design, build and install the cabins:
 
I first cut out templates for the wood façades and bulkheads/side walls (Bow and Stern) and carefully fit them to the space including cutouts for the overhead cross beams.
 
Then I spent some time laying out the design and look of the cabin facades.
 
Once I was happy with the templates and design style I cut out the wood parts using some birch panels I had left over from a previous RC airplane build.
 
Then I paneled the front side of each façade with the same planking used for the decks.  And then added the door frames, door handles and floor moulding.
 
On the stern cabins I left the middle cabin open for viewing some furniture I plan to put in the room.  The inside of each side wall was also paneled with planking.
 
Then I did one last fit to be sure everything was tight, squared everything up with angle blocks and glued in all the parts (facades and side walls).
 
Note; I used 1/4 x 1/4 inch supports across the back side of the facades that should insure they stay in place securely.  
 
 

Bounty lower decks
 

Bounty side profile
 
 

Template laid over birch ply - decided to extend the wall a bit
 
 

Bow wood facade being fitted
 

Stern wood facade being fitted
 
 
 

Another fitting in the stern prior to adding door handles and install
 

Another fitting in the bow prior to adding door handles and install
 

Gluing up the bow facade using angle blocks to keep it level 
 
 

Installed cabins in stern (just need to add the furniture pieces) 
 
 

 
 

Note the side walls in the stern middle cabin - inside walls have been planked like the cabin front
 

 
 
At this point I'm going to add the pins/dowels to each of the frame/beam joints for extra strength.
 
And then I'll check the alignment again of the main, middle and lower decks with the fore, main and mizzen masts, as well as bilge pipes and all the stanchions that drop below the main deck.....then on to installing the middle deck.
 
 
Stay tuned......

The stand is made from mahogany with a brown stain. These photos show the stand and finished model and some of her friends.

first sail

After a two year break, l returned to the construction of the model, finished standing rigging.

more photos
deck equipment worn tried to do

next pictures 2011

I'm leaning in the direction of PT-124.  One of my favorite WWII prints was done by an artist named Tom Freeman.   He did a superb painting called "Action in the Slot" depicting the Japanese destroyer Makigumo going down at the hands of PT-124 in 1943.  My current plans are to purchase a copy of the print and display it with the finished model.
 
This is a copy of the print.
 

 
Cheers,
Tim

Cutter; 12 Guns. Object ID SLR0704. 
The description provided on the NMM web site is: "Scale: probably 1:72. A contemporary (?) plank on frame full hull model of a 12-gun cutter. The fact that the hull is planked in carvel fashion, (edge to edge planking), and that a square topsail is rigged would suggest a date of about 1820. Also the decoration on the stern indicates the name ‘Pelican’ although a cutter of this name cannot be traced either as a man-of-war or a revenue cruiser".
 
The interesting thing here (for me, at least!) is that again the belaying rack at the bow is running fore-aft by the bowsprit.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Tony

Putting on the bulwarks. A little trickier than I thought it would be but in the end I liked the way it came out. I used the Mulaki plank strips for the inner bulwark planking, which will be sheltered by the timber heads and gunwales so I didn't put too much stock into chopping them up "to size".
 
 

Spritsail Yard
I decided the next job would be to fit and rig the spritsail yard,this has now been completed with photos below. My next job will be to add the fore ,main and mizzen braces, again leaving the gaffs and the the tac sheets for access, also at some point soon I will make up the ships boats,most likely after the braces.










 

After some adjustments, it all fits. I had originally thought about unshipping the stern crane and toss it overboard, but decided it should stay. I was able to stand the body up and secure it to the aft mast so that it is visible, yet out of the way. The windlass can stay in place, as it too, takes up little space.The support arms for the crane and the hand spikes for the windlass tied together and easily slid under the raised aft deck.

With the crane out of the way, the chest, compass, food sacks and tools seem to have plenty of room. The cargo nets were large enough to support almost all of the barrels.

I decided to only hang four oars off each side. This way the two that are left may appeal to those who can't look with their eyes.

HELP!  HELP!!
I wanted to construct the 40 ft seine boat while still in early construction stages of B W Latham.  I dry - assembled the seven bulkhead formers onto the keel.  According to the directions, during actual assembly the next step (#4)  would be to construct stringers or gunwales from 1/16" square strips running from stem to stern and INSERTED INTO THE SIDE SLOTS ON THE BULKHEAD FORMERS.  Then I should cover each of the hull formers with a piece of the 1/32" X 1/16" basswood, making sure that each strip is locked into the former by placing it in the small notch at the baseboard edge of the former.  Then I should wrap it over the top so that it follows the contour of the former and end it in the notch on the other side.
 
As written, these instructions present two major concerns.  First, the strips covering the bulkhead formers would need to go over the keel.  At bulkhead formers A and G on the at the stem and stern, the bend angle is so acute that the covering strips would certainly break.  Second, step # 7 says to remove the hull from the formers by cutting away the tabs that hold the stringers.  Problem is that with the hull upside down, the entire shoulder of each side of the bulkhead formers would need to be removed.  Think about it. 
 
I honestly don't believe the boat can be constructed following these instructions.  If anyone sees it differently, your input would be greatly appreciated.
 
<<Gary>>

3d cheerful
 

 

Hello,
 
the capstan is now completted. Here are some close up images and overall views.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Alex

Thanks.  We are going to make you a model kit company yet!
I will be in touch.

Maury, Thanks,  but ....No,  not at all.  Whats the point of that?   In reality they were let into the keel by about half their thickness.   At least according to Lavery and Goodwin.  Its a detail that wont be seen at all and its a difficult task.  These are just glued right on.  They would still stand proud of the surface of the keel and stern post.
 
Goodwin states that the fish plates and horse shoe plates were about 1" thick and let into the wood by 1/2".  They were fastened with copper bolts from one side through to the other.   
 
What did they do later when hull's were plated?  There is no real source as to how it was done.  It makes sense that they would simply let them into the wood by the full thickness. But I have never found any hard and fast source about it.  They werent let in completely on the Victory and she was plated.  But I would like to add two points.  Just so folks know where my head is at with such minutia.  I get asked a lot about some of these details and this is actually one of them.
 
I have no record that Cheerful was actually plated anyway to add another complication.  I imagine at this time most ships were but I am not sure if it was reserved for larger vessels only.  I have never seen a period cutter model plated and havent read that in general they were not, saying that I would not have plated this model anyway.
 
In addition,  that is such a small detail that I am not real worried about it either way.  When I weigh the pro's and con's..even the best model builders have trouble doing this.  I have seen some attempts by the best and it still looks sloppy to me. I applaud them trying but in reality dont understand why they would even try.  I would rather bend a bit on the accuracy here if its actually the case and opt for a cleaner crisp look.  Something that was regularly done by contemporary ship modelers.  Not every detail has to be executed.  Just my thoughts as I look for another excuse not to make any more rope today.  So please excuse the longer response as I procrastinate a bit more.  Sometimes I laugh softly to myself when I see the level of detail some builders insist on trying to put on their models.  Just my opinion.
 
Having said that.  I made the mistake of adding up the number of treenails on this hull.  Its about 6500.   I drilled 6500 holes.  So although I am a bit crazy as most non-modellers tell me,  I think there are even a few others that have gone a bit further off the deep end.   I am not there yet.
 
So Maury..... long story short.  Thats a ride on the crazy train I am not willing to take just yet.   But knock yourself out and give it a try.
 
Chuck

The port side is done and treenailed. I also made the horse shoe plates for the stem and keel plate at the stern.  These were laser cut from laserboard.  I painted and glued them on.  They have little holes cut through them as you can see.  The beauty of that is after gluing them with yellow glue and placing them on the model....a little bit of glue seeps through the holes and forms a nail head.  But if you dont want to do that,  you can drill through the holes with a #78 bit and insert some 28 gauge wire as bolt heads.  ....Or   just leave it as is.  I will be drilling and inserting the wire as bolt heads later on.  Also all of the fancy molding is in position that I want to add at this point.   Now its time to thin down the bulwarks inboard.  FUN ....FUN!!! 
 
Chuck
 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes indeed!!   This will be used for the port lid hinges as well.  I may add them this week just to see how they work.  But it will be a while before I add them to the store.  I want to include a few other elements like the gudgeons and pintles.   Thats a little ways off yet.  Sort of a metal-works package.   Most of it anyway.  But there will be some brass used where extra strength is needed.   That wont be included with this.
 
Chuck

Hi Everyone,
 
I am beginning a build of Billing Boats "701 FD10 Yawl" Arnanes.  It is the second model I've worked on, and the first was a very simple model.  I may be asking for advice, so thanks in advance for that.  Upon opening the kit, it became clear that the construction will be plank on bulkhead and that the hull will be built in two halves (starboard and port halves), which will then be glued together to form a complete hull.  It appears to be a good model for me to be building at this point, as it will be challenging, but not discouraging for a new builder.  There are essentially no instructions, but there are good labelled drawings showing where the pieces go.  Related to the description of the model, I would call it a Ketch, based on the size and location of the masts:  the mizzenmast is stepped forward of the rudder post and the mizzen looks larger to me than what I would expect on a yawl.  Still, the mizzen boom does overhang the stern, so you could make a point that it's a yawl.  Either way, I like it and am looking forward to the build!
 
-Jason
 
Photo's below:
1 and 2: Kit, as-received
3. Starboard hull-half, with bulkheads glued in place and carved/beveled in preparation for planking.
 

Thanks Bob! You've got the metalworking thing down to a science.
 
Well, I got a very little bit more done. I went ahead and started thinking about how to make a display case. I decided to go with a maple base. It's plain old vanilla, slab sawn, but it will look nice underneath the boat. I built a mitered framework around it out of mahogany. I wrapped the maple base in cellophane so the miter joints wouldn't stick to it when they were glued up. I slotted the mahogany pieces to take the glass panes. It will basically be a mahogany and glass box, with glass on five sides, that will slip down over the maple base. I'll hold the box and base together with removable pins. It's all bare wood right now.
 
I also took a semi-circular cut out of the bottoms of the feet the boat sits on. They were looking too bulky. Next comes a water scuttle, a gaff and boom, and the running rigging.
 
Thanks for looking.

Hello,
 
next update: the lower capstan. I cut a notch in to inner edge of whelps and then filed the edge to pass them to the barrel. The images show the process explanably I hope...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The "metal" is black paper
 

 

 

 
Regards
Alex