Loracs

Greeting, first off: nice model. It looks fantastic. You should be proud... will be a nice display piece. Personally, I would not bother using the jig for the shrouds/ratline. It looks easier, faster and more accurate... but it is not. Setting them up to the ship will be a nightmare. Most people DON"T recommend using this type of jig. I would rather set the shrouds one by one (will look better) directly on the ship and then make the ratlines. Watch video on how to set it up on the mats. There is a specific order for each shroud (in an alternating pattern), so it flow nicely from the mat to the deadeye. Here a link to a tutorial. Rigging is an integral part of modeling sail ship... can be fun to do properly. HEY! you will get another set of skills to your repertoire. (1) HOW TO START STANDING RIGGING CORRECT | Ships of Scale Note: picture is a close-up. The rope is ~1.5-2mm. The ratlines are far better done after you set the shrouds. I would do it the classical way, using clove hitch knots. At first it is intimidating... but soon it will go as a breeze. Remember after a dozen or so, you will get the hang of it. After, few hundred knots... you could do it while watching TV. A few thousand later, while you sleep. Seriously, it gets that easy. Just take you time.

@Snug Harbor Johnny, thanks a lot for the input. I was guessing than the answer would be more complicated. Therefore, I should not dismiss one approach or another summarily. Thanks for that, I will try to research a tad more for a given ship in question. That kind of data thought don't seen to be often available. @wefalck, LOL indeed this is a very long timeframe. Sorry about that. I should had written "in general".

@chris watton, Greetings Chris. To start, I want to thank you for your presence here and all your wonderful ship design. As kit manufacturer, you are really raising the bar in quality and materials. Since your old Amati Revenge design, which I built... I'm a fan! I do have a question for you, and it is ok if you don't want to disclose anything at the moment. My current phase in model building is POF. Far more complex (for me), allows to represent the frames and interior fatefully and just look nice. Unfortunately, there is very little option in this area beside scratch built. I see on Chuck's web site that the Ketch Rigged Sloop may be produced by Vanguard Models. Are you planning the POF version? Do you have any idea of the potential timeframe?

I have a simple question on the design of interior compartment in old 16-19th century ships. Sometimes I see peoples building interior walls with planks oriented horizontally to the deck. Is it correct? should it be layout vertically instead? I know a silly question. I just wondering since design maybe different back then for practical and/or convenience reasons, or even in different locations such depth cargo area versus captain's cabin.

This is great... at least you are not dealing with multiple product interaction. I would try with @RossR suggestion. Try to reproduce it on a scrap wood and then see if it can be solved that way. Far less risky than trying to fix on the ship first.

@Richard Braithwaite, this is such a great build. Congratulation. Are the plan(s) still available? I never scratch build but if I ever do... this is the model I would do.

@3DShipWright, @CDR_Ret, a thousand thanks for even considering such project.... and there are absolutely no hard feelings if you think it is just unrealistic. This would indeed be quite a demanding project. Let me see what I can find online to go from an utterly beginner level to an "I somehow understand level" of proficiency with blender. ;_) In addition, you further make a comment about the final purpose: artistic digital modeling and Ship modeling with the intent to develop an actual model via CNC and/or laser cutting. In my naive view, I thought that achieving one get you automatically to the other. You already see that I don't understand blender at all. Lastly, with ship modeling in mind, with the objective of creating 3d frames from 2d plan down the road, would it be better using a parametric CAD software as starting point, rather them a mesh like blender.

amazing... I so much would like to do that. With zero experience in Blender, I don't even know where and how to start. @3DShipWright, fantastic work. You need a series of video with step-by-step guide 😉 I know I'm being unreasonable. That would be a huge undertaking by itself. In fact, would you have something very simple at hand, such as a launch or a cutter with frames, that you would be able to share a series of Blender files from the beginning. Almost like a step by step but with a simple layout. Current tutorial just does not deal with model ship, so the motivation to learn Blender is low for us focus exclusively on ship modeling. This could be an entry point for us to learn from. This is just food for thought and just a suggestion, this is still a large undertaking and maybe hand holding is just not what you want to do. hehe! Even simpler, would you know of a ship modeling-centric tutorial channel (youtube) using blender?

Greeting, I'm slowly considering "scratch" building. Having little experience and mostly no equipment, I'm considering outsourcing wood laser cutting from CAD drawing. Would anyone having used such service? quality service where I will provide the boards and drawings. Mostly something affordable for a full POF project. If it will cost 2-3x the price of a kit.... there not much a point. Thanks for your input!

"I might possibly release my plans and files for my ropewalk and we could have a group build. You could make it without a laser cutter. I could work up a material list and the sources to buy the stuff needed. Would you guys be interested in that?" I would definitively enjoy that. I already have your ropewalk and enjoy making ropes - in moderation and as needed. I could use a second one (I hate changing the configuration between 3- 4- strands), I was even planning on getting a second one when shortage happen. I can't see doing a build without it. The first time I made ropes I was a beginner (still a beginner but with a couple builds under my belt - and enough ambition to get me in trouble), and I can attest that your ropewalk and tutorials were great to get me started. Without YOU, I don't think I would have ever started making my own - and liking it.... so, thumb up for the above. I think that, at heart, you are a mentor and teacher... and enjoying it.

Your building speed is just amazing... in addition, fantastic results. At this rate, you will be able to fill a museum to capacity anytime soon.

a thousand thanks... greatly appreciated.

@drobinson02199, greeting I am interest in the kit. I have a quick question for you. Does Amati include plan of the detailed layout of the hull plates. I would like to simulate it using thin polystyrene sheet. Thanks for the reply.

a small question: in your post on "british Practice", second picture. How is the lines attach to the yarn? what kind of knots? so sorry for the basic question. I can't see the knot very well. here reposted:

This is great information... thanks a lot for taking the time.

Indeed amazing, a must stop for anything rigging. Thanks for your detailed log. I'm sorry if you posted before but could you provide information on the thread (type, manufacturer and color) you used for making the various ropes/cables? I really like both the texture and color.

This is a good idea, simple and straightforward. Look like quite precise too.

I forgot to mention... you may need to invest in a couple tools. Something you will find useful is a plank binder. It allows to shape planks to follow the, sometime pronounced, curves of the ship. This allows you more flexibility in placement since you won't need as much force to get everything in place. Plank binder uses heat and water (steam) to shape or round planks. I use this one but there many others. If you shape the planks beforehand, you won't really need to use nails (which btw are not that easy to use in planking), just glue and few clamps. Note, this can get very hot. Careful not burning yourself or the wood. Keep the plank moist with water. In real ship building, they used a steam box like here: Steam box - Wikipedia Another trick is to use the bulkheads to hold the plank in place. A simple modification of a standard clamp is good enough (see last picture, taken from @peterbrowne). It will hold the plank sideway (no gap when planking the hull) and apply pressure from the top (while the glue cure). The right tools for the right jobs help so much. LASTLY, you can shape the plank without plank binder. Wet you plank for 5-10 min in hot water then slowly place it to the corresponding hull position. Hold it with clamps you made above. DO NOT glue it yet. At the bow, you may need a hair dryer to help bend the plank in place without breaking it. Water and heat are the key. Then leave it there for few hours until dry... you then have a perfectly shaped plank to work with. There is more to hull planking... but this will get you going while you read.

@Claudius_Rex, Greeting, I'm pleased that you took the time to post your progress here. This is one of the great ways to learn the craft. Let me try to give you few pointers. I hope this will help you here and in future build. Amati kits are not too bad of a choice. Some kits are better than others and I am not familiar with this one. First, you came here: fantastic decision. My first general suggestion will be to read. Wood modeling is all about learning the various techniques involved. There are many... I'm still learning after nearly 3 years of building model, so never get discourage. I'm giving couple links to section of the forum to get you started. There are far more out there. Shop Notes, Ship Modeling Tips, Techniques and Research - Model Ship World™ Nautical Research Guild - Articles and How Tos Second, try to locate here and/or YouTube build logs for this specific model... read then all. Build logs are a perspective from someone else, how they progressed and often the methods the use. THIS IS A GREAT OPPORTUNITY TO LEARN FROM THEM. Not everyone presents a detailed build, but that ok... it gives YOU an idea of what is coming and potentially how to do it. Third, Never, ever rush into the project. This is a recipe for disaster. Model building is as much patience and dedication (there a lot of repetition) than skills. Lastly, let get to your build. First planking is all about getting a solid and smooth foundation to the hull. It will be hidden so you have an opportunity to PRACTICE and develop your skills at planking. Your planking still needs a lot of work... AND THAT OK! Reading the methods and practicing them are keys. My suggestion: Wood model is a labor of love. You need to be gentle, accurate and rigorous in your approach. RULE NO 1: If you have to force it, you are using the wrong approach. Something is not right, and you will have difficulties. I think you try to force the planks in place here. This is your first mistake. There are methods to deal with this. Second, Ships are all about symmetry and style, with gentle flowing curves. Keep that in mind as you work on the model. Is there symmetry? yes, how will I make identical on each side. This is just a starter comments. We just can't write full tutorials it will take too long. But it is up to you to read as much as possible. LAST NOTE: you mentioned and assumed that the hole for the mats is miss-aligned. Amati is generally good at design. Ask yourself: for this kit, is it a mistake OR is it by design? In many ship the mats are not necessarily perpendicular to the deck... often it leans back (relative to the bow) by few degrees. I just don't know about this model to answer. But make no assumptions.

thank you... appreciate. It is fun to do.

Final step - Dusting/mudding: Obviously the most apparent step. I had to be careful not to overdo it and hide all the previous weathering and chipping. Vietnam red earth does stand out a lot (if you look at the tracks for example). Here is the final set of pictures, with the stand and figures.

Weathering (Chipping): Chipping with a sponge is relatively easy. Not my best work... but it definitely brings a batter-up look. As a bonus, it is further defined panel edges. Overall, not too bad. Will seal the work with varnish, ready for the next step.

Burnishing (metallic steel): Edges, rivets and other details are burnished as an initial step to weathering and chipping. It brings even more contrast overall. It starts to give a more metallic look to the tanks.

Oil pin wash: I give a second try to pin wash. This time, I used a few variations of olive drab, focusing on raised and flat panels. I think it is better... it brings more shades and makes everything pop a little. The yellow will be tone down later when I start weathering.

Ratlines... oh!! hours and hours of fun! hehe