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Loracs
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I figured out my unraveling mistakes. The successful ones were likely the ones I forgot to do, roughly 1 in 5 I'm guessing. A pretty bad fails rate (80% or so). The more careful I was, the worse it seemed to get. I realized my mistakes today and ET VOILA! 100% successful. I'm almost too proud to admit it... but HEY! If I make a mistake someone else may one day. Here it is: My Syren version 2 did not have arrow(s) pointing which way to twist. For some reason, I put in my head that I had to reverse drilling orientation (flip the reverse switch on the drill) when going from one stock to the other. Big mistakes... I basically keep adding tension to the rope without releasing it. If I was not careful when cutting the rope at one end, it would twist on itself aggressively. Then I read one of Chuck's comments on rope making: that when you carefully balance the tension from the first and second twist, the rope would just lay flat (without much curling, unwinding) when you cut it from the stock post. That was the clue. Corrected the mistake and BANG, released one end and the rope just lay there. Did 5 other ropes of different sizes, and YES!!! each almost seen better than the previous. A nice sight.
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This Mara 120, 4 strands was still under tension when you replied... so I increased the temperature to 400 degree/5 min. It did quite ok this time. However, I will be switching to 3-strands with more twisting on individual strands, as you suggested. I may be more forgiving ;_) Here are the Mara 70, 4 strands and the Mara 120, 4 strands. I think they are ok.
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thank you for the pointers... will give it a try.
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Hello, first few times with the Syren ropewalk. P.S. beside my inexperience... I like Chuck ropewalk a lot! Looking for suggestions on the following: Using mara 70, 4 strands (0.7mm or 0.025 inch): having no real issues twisting and after 4-5 min at 350 degrees ===> no unraveling. Using Mara 120, 4 strands (0.25mm or 0.008 inch): The final rope keep unraveling, even after 5 min at 350 degrees. Not sure which variable to look to resolve this issue. Longer cook time or raise to 400 degree? Anything else I may oversee, such as a) twist more tightly or less? b) more/less tension while twisting? c) or longer time under tension after watering? a thousand thanks for your help!
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Shaping Mats: Build a rig for shaping mats. It is basically a holder for interchangeable v-groove pieces (a couple with different depth/width) for shaping using a plane or rounding off with sandpaper using a variable-speed drill. Hope it works... first time shaping round dowels. Now, I have to figure out how to accurately square the end of the dowel (likely a little table saw).
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Completed planking inside the deck and stated to tackle the bow. In keeping with the color theme, both areas were planked using walnut strips. The bow was quite fragile... and thus was reinforced underneath, above and on the sides. Here's what it looks like so far. Note: the bow side panels are not glued yet. I still need to add the canon door first.
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I don't know how you can work with cardboard has building material. I can see that it will be easy to form each piece but... holding it together to get the shape of the ship just right, that seen to be an art form. It seen so fragile. Well done.
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Final look with the side panels up and planked. This is a moment I have been waiting to see for quite a while now. Wood inlays were incorporated as I planked so they don't stand out too much. Walnut strips from 1mm to 5mm complete the overall layout. It adds a little dimension to the sides. Overall, I'm pleased with the result. Ready to complete planking inside and tackle the bow and the stern.
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Slow progress (the ship is emerging from the dark): Working on the last segments of the ship. This is the time where all the small imperfections start to haunt you. 1 mm here and another there, curved deck not perfectly glued or wood taking back its original shape (does not want to be curved), missing a couple grooves in the deck for the inner walls changing slightly the angle of the upper deck, etc... This means that several hours are spent making small adjustments before considering adding the final side panels. In addition, I have to plan the changes in decorations carefully, with all the risk it entails (i.e. not really knowing if the end results will be ok... or not and potentially jeopardizing hundreds of hours of work). Here's what it looks like now. Note: @Ferrus Manus, @Darivs Architectvs, I did not have the courage to remove the monograms... they were already glued when you posted. ;_) Note 2: I took the liberty to reenforce the mats junction to the decks (plywood + hardwood). A little thicker but a tradeoff I'm ok to accept. The reason is that the mats won't be glued. They need to be temporary (but really solid), since they will need to come off (and part of the rigging) when we move in few years from now. Currently, it is a thigh fit and will hold really well.
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A nice one... and very original design. Loving it!
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I have not pay attention to the lettering. Indeed, it is E R. 😉
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Carving Decoration: I'm not completely giving up on carving... I just need some help (in the form of laser cutting) to get me started. The following is currently available from https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/. So I decided to practice... and very likely add them to the Revenge. The left side is uncarved, while the right side is my first attempt. It's a little challenging since you can't sand imperfections.
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As you can see earlier, I'm deviating from the kit color scheme. Again, it's just a matter of taste. This includes the palisades (upper parts of the side panels). Rather than paint it white, I chose to plank it with walnut. The vertical stakes are from walnut strip that I reduce to a thickness of roughly 0.3-0.5 mm to retain the 3D look and feel. Both sides are planked since they will be visible. More work... but I like it so far. Walnut strips source from: Modeler's Sawmill is a custom wood milling shop located in New Jersey, that caters to hobbyists and model shipbuilders (modelerssawmill.com).
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Thank you all for the comments and praises... they are very much appreciated.
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More deck planking, many more... All three levels installed and glued. A few more curves with the concave decks... Not much to worry beside having a tight fit. As mentioned in the manual, I glued in position 6 cannons that will later be closed by the side panels, which will install soon.
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Hello @Fishooks, I'm sorry for the unclear statement... my bad. The deck comes in two parts (cut in the middle) for easier installation. It is a very tight fit otherwise, and you may break the bulkheads. Since I was planking the deck outside the ship, i set up each deck side-by-side and carried on with planking. The very middle plank, however, at the junction of the decks was glued to ONLY one deck part but not the other. This way they can be kept separate. Once installed on the ship, everything is seamless. cheers,
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very nice... a joy to watch you work!
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second planking: so much fun the first time... let do it a second time. Unlike the first planking you have no bulkheads to clamp. I found that using 120mm length planks so much easier to handle and glue. You just need to get the wale plank right... then it is use as guide for planking the whole. Just my 2-cents as a beginner... you may have alternate approach yourself. I can't wait to see the results, fellow Revenge"R". Have Fun!
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hello knightyo, thanks for the comment. you are right. I was thinking about carving the door frames... but I fail badly at it. I just don't have the right tool for it. Maybe I should have painted the door only, keeping the door frame brass. I'm just running out of idea, so I painted red. Likely not the best? Maybe another color that does not stand out so much? Red look like a good idea at first.... but now i just don't know! hehe! Maybe off-white? Let me know what you guys think.
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Minimalist Decoration theme: From personal preference, I like minimalist design when it comes to painting model ships. I prefer woods of various types. The historic "The Revenge" is heavy in paint... just too much for me. There is nothing wrong with it (or the kit supplied materials) , it's just a matter of taste. I will thus be deviating from the historical layout... but I'm fine with it, which may not be the preference for some. Walnut strips are of great quality, source from Modeler's Sawmill is a custom wood milling shop located in New Jersey, that caters to hobbyists and model shipbuilders (modelerssawmill.com). I will be using wood inlays when possible. Examples are shown below. In addition, I have been planking the vertical panels with walnut strips for a better finish/look. To add some 3D texture, I sanded the upper side of the strips for better definition when beside each other. I hope I'm not offending anyone because of the lack of historic accuracy. Enjoys...
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First deck cannons: I aged the cannons slightly with "brass black" to retain the brownish color. Similarly, I treated the carriages with walnut wood stain to retain the wood grain. This gave it a more but aged wood look. The last picture was before treatment. Subtle difference but still better in person.
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Hull completed. I must say that I'm pretty happy to have this step completed and move on to other parts. While I was around, I decided to get this level gunport(s) completed. Top off with matte poly. Two more coats to go but that's the easy, while satisfying, part. It gives a sense of what the wood will look like once finished.
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Chuck, I'm so happy that you are releasing a POF version. It is a great design, something to be very proud. I consider myself a beginner and still struggling at time with the basic. The speedwell is likely outside of my skillset... for now. However, I will greatly enjoy watching the numerous logs here. In fact, I'm looking forward to it.
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Planking Bow
Loracs replied to Loracs's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
thank you all, appreciate your help very much. Chuck tutorials was indeed very informative. I applied the technique to my current build. Spiling was indeed the key to a clean flow of the planks at the bow. thanks again.
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